GeneralDisorder

At 3AM, this can be heard in Evan's neighborhood: "This is my friend Guido.... he *likes* knee caps..." hehehe J/K - find him, and then direct the cops to where he is. Also - if you have any correspondence on the matter (emails - threads from this board), print that and take it along so you have *some* proof that he was supposed to buy it from you. Too bad he has the title. Maybe it's still in the car - got a slim jim? I would probably find him, and steal the car back. It's not like he's gonna go to the cops now is it? GD

no - the mounting isn't the same - you will have to mix and match mounting hardware, as well as maybe modify the cross-member under the engine. especially if you are going to move it back into the spare tire area. another problem is what to do with the radiator. The EJ20 is long, and it may be hard to fit a radiator in front of it. GD

The transmisson (tranny) is the part that hooks up to the engine, and trasfers power to the wheels - you know - its the part you shift? Anyway, in your case, you have an EA71 transmission, which has a comletely different bell housing than an EJ20. There's NO way to put that engine in your car using the EA71 transmission. And if there were, it wouldn't handle the horse power of the EJ20 anyway, so it's no good trying to use it. You need an EJ20 transmission - maybe you already have one? Anyway - yeah, the swap can be done, but you will be fabricating a lot of parts for the job I would guess. Axles are going to be a major issue, as the hubs need the EA style axle, and the transmission needs the EJ style. So they need to be cut and welded together from the axles of the respective cars (and balanced too). once you figure out the mechanical side of things, the electrical stuff can be worked out. This is not a direct swap - expect to be welding / cutting / moving all kinds of stuff around to make it work. GD

Is your car right hand drive or left? GD

My wagon grinds going from 4th to 3rd - just a little. Smooth from 2nd to third, but not on downshift. It gets worse the faster your going when you do it (of course)..... anyone got any ideas? GD

Oh man - shawn you DO NOT want to drill those pins - MAN are they tough. Spring steel. Tried that once and gave up after chewing three bits up, and only going 1/8". 3/16" punch is the best bet - I'm sure you know that. PB probly help too. Problem I have is similar - except the pin comes out - but the stub axle (talking rear axles here), won't come out of the axle. I guess when it's time for a new axle, I'll just get another stub from the JY. Oh well. And the Ball joints are supposed to be tough to get out - that's why there's a puller for them. Pickle fork - only way to fly. Get one at autozone - the free tool rental program works great. All the WD-40 in the world won't loosen that ball joint a bit, since it's not rust that's holding it in..... GD

I think you are wanting to do a bolt in swap? Not gonna happen friend. Your tranny will not mount to the EJ20. Sorry. Check your other post for more info - I was thinking you meant a full on conversion to the EJ20 drivetrain. You would need a whole car - not just the front clip. GD

Yeah - I knew about the D/R EJ's in other countries - but knowing they exist just pisses me off even more. If subaru doesn't think enough of the US market to even offer it as an option, then I won't buy one even if I *could* get one from AUS and drop it in. It's the priciple of the thing - if I want something, and they make that something - why can't I have it? And the bed is WAY too small. Might as well get an outback wagon - the cargo area is the same size, and you get it dry with carpet! Why they made it a four door with four seats is beyond me. Two seats would have been just fine, and allowed for a bigger bed. Now - having said all that. If they offered a D/R tranny, factory lift kits, factory brush guards, and maybe a winch, I could get into it. But as it sits, it's an outback with no roof. BIG DEAL! Not trying to offend anyone - if you like it, good - buy one. I'll keep my Brat thanks very much. GD

212k? that's it? 2nd engine? Good lord, they must have abused it beyond belief. My parts wagon (that I sold recently) runs awsome at 315k on the original EA81. Can't tell much from that picture. But I have never heard of anyone cracking an EA81 block. I suppose that it's possible, but I've never heard of it. If it's as chewed as you say tho, I would just get a whole new engine, and toss that one in the yard for a bird bath. Sounds terrible. One thing - if the cracks are invisible... what will they do? Personally - if I can't see them, then I don't think they are going to bother the engine either. Get out the calipers and start checking tolerances - that's what we do in the Army.... never had to look for microscopic anything. And there was this one transfer case.... looked like a grenade went off inside - bits and peices everywhere, stuff embedded in the casing.... it was rebuilt. Seemed find afterwards. GD

Might be tight between those frame rails.... stage 1 or stage 2 body? And what will you do for a tranny? Not gonna use the old one - won't handle the power. Best to use the AWD EJ tranny. Axles will have to be custom, as they will need the EJ inner joint, and probably need shortening. Lots of wireing to figure out, and shift linkage etc. BIG job, but certainly possible. GD

Your cable will go before 160k - they don't tend to last very long. When they get "stiff" feeling, replace soon, as it's starting to wear through the rubber outer coating, and will eventually snap. I had one snap on an on-ramp to the freeway - good thing my dad has AAA. After looking at it, it had rubbed till a single strand broke, then it was downhill from there, every time you push in the clutch, that bit of wire would catch, and rip more wires loose. Bad times. Good thing they only cost $19. Takes about 20 minutes to replace and adjust properly. GD

Well - that dipstick is technically in the front diff... but it's the same oil as the tranny. To be sure i have not seen others like this either, never seen any independant diffs with em either. It is kindof strange now that you mention it. Never had given it much thought tho. Soobies are kind of strange mechanically speaking - especially our old skool stuff. You get used to it tho. I personally like the layout of the whole system, it works well. I can't stand transverse mounted FWD cars - what a pain to work on. GD

Yeah - no problem. I try to help with what info I know. I have a friend with a 65 T-Bird - he uses that place too - I think it's called "The Birds Nest" heh I've learned a LOT from this board - I sugest you buy a Haynes manual, and do some maintenence yourself maybe - use this board for questions you might have. Many things can be done yourself, and NEVER go to one of those quick lube places. See this post: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2899 We don't need them jacking up a perfectly good vintage soob now do we? GD

I'll add to that (also EA81 numbers) GL 2WD - 3450 Brat GL 4WD - 3460 Turbo 4WD - 3510 GD

Hey - thanks - you put me over 600 posts. hehe GD

Oh - and the fender... I'm not sure on the going rate for that vintage. I get fenders from Junk Yards for $25. But those are for stage 2 cars. If you can find one, I would say $50 wouldn't be outrageous. Mind you - I've never bought one, so I'm not sure on that. I would think anything over $100 would be rape (unless they have to ship it). GD

If he has experience with holly's he will be right at home on the weber. It's a very simple carb. The conversion can be done in an afternoon. Not hard at all. GD

The "Kit" is availible brand new through any retailer of Weber carburators. Just tell them what your application is (Subaru Brat, etc). is K730. I just looked here: http://www.carbsunlimited.com/Weber/weber.htm And they do indeed list your engine (EA71) and the kit for it is a K730. If you shop around you could probably beat their price on that web site, but not by much. GD

You can probably find one at a wrecking yard - but you will need an adaptor plate for the subaru manifold - that will have to be bought new. They are around $35. One from a wrecking yard should be rebuilt, and jetted to your engine, or it won't run right. Rebuilds cost about $50 at shops I know, and jetting can probably be done for you as well. Expect it to not be as easy as the kit, but since it's more custom, it may run even better. Or it may run worse depending on who does the rebuild, and rejetting. Still not sure about the 1.6, but I think it used a hitachi carb much as the 1.8 does, so it should work fine. GD

Well - the carb can be bought in a Kit brand new, and if you have a friend that can use some hand tools and follow directions, it's a pretty easy swap, and will run better afterward than the stock carb ever did - even new. I would put one on for you, but I live in Portland. The kit is about $325. A rebuilt original style carb will cost over $200, and not give you the performance of the Weber. What engine does your Brat have? Is it the 1.6 or the 1.8? I know the Weber will work on a 1.8, but I don't recall if they will go on a 1.6. GD

Mountain tech is good - but expensive. I do see older stuff there regularly, but I don't use them myself. GD

The Y is not your restriction - AKIRA speaks the truth. The Y DOES however balance the left and right cylinder banks for airflow purposes, and this is *nearly* impossible to do without the cross-over in the Y. It can be done, but would cost more than you are willing to pay. You need custom flowed exhaust designed and tested with CAD. Even then, you'll only get BACK what you would have lost with an improperly designed dual system. The Y pipe is one of the biggest innovations in exhaust since the muffler, and should not be tossed out lightly. GD

As for a carb - have you looked into putting a Weber 32/36 DGEV on it? Makes more torque, and better mileage. Unless your looking to restore to *complete* factory condition, it's really the way to go. GD

Many of the DGAV's have been refitted with the electric choke - I see LOTS of them on ebay that turn up this way. Seems to be weber that is doing it. I bought a brand new kit, and it has DGAV stamped right on the side of the carb, but it is electric. Very strange that they wouldn't follow their own nameing convention. If I were them, and cared about the customers sanity, I would grind off the DGAV, and put a sticker on it.... or just leave it blank. Nothing at all would be less confusing than leaving it there. Course - that's not the only issue I have with weber's "kit". They have terrible instructions that are generic (ie: not vehicle specific), they aren't jetted correctly, it comes with the wrong size air filter, The holes in the adapter, and the manifold don't line up, etc. I could overlook one or two of these things, but I would have rather paid an extra $100 for a better thought out kit. I won't buy one again. I'll buy rebuild kits, and adapters, and find the correct jetting myself. And I'll still save money to boot. The weber itself it s a wonderful carb, and the engineering is very good. But the group of yahoo's they must have designing their kits needs a good kick in the head. GD

Wash by hand, and don't take it out in the rain? :-\ Although a little rain water probably wouldn't hurt - give the cylinders a good steam cleaning. GD