GeneralDisorder

Geez Skipper - is that a .30 cal I see on there? So like.... did you hump that baby around the hedge rows in WWII? sniff..... sniff.... I smell photoshop.... GD

M60? That's gone if you don't know - been replaced (sadly) with the M240B - a french made, heavy peice of crapola. GD

You need some sort of cross over pipe to equalize the exhaust pressure. You will almost certainly lose HP with a real dual exhaust. They sound neat, but are impractical on our engines. Don't know about the cat issue - don't much care for them myself.... GD

WagonsOnly - you must be talking about EA82's cause I have an 84 wagon with just about everything - not badged tho. Digidash, PW, PM, CC, AC, Velour interior, sunroof. It WAS a 2WD 5 speed, but is now a 4 speed D/R 4WD with 3" custom lift Oh - and has anyone actually seen an EA81 wagon that was badged as a GL-10? I want pics, cause I have never seen one, and I don't believe they existed. I have seen coupe's, and sedans - plenty of them in fact, but NEVER a GL-10 wagon in the Gen 2 body style. Maybe I just haven't seen one? GD

There are several types of CC used in the EA81's. I would make sure the kit fits both styles of dash's - there's tilt wheel, and non-tilt wheel style's. Also - since it's for an 88, the wiring may be slightly different, but I'm sure that it's doable in that respect. What type of carb does your 84 have? I don't know if there is anything specific throttle linkage wise, but if you have the carter / weber single barrel, then you might have problems (I don't know for sure), cause the 88 surely had a hitachi. I think the carter / weber only came on *some* 83's and 84's. Some 84's came with factory CC, and I've seen one 83 with what looked like a dealership install. I'm guessing that this kit has a on/off switch that lights up - and goes under the dash - like the third eye switches. That's the one I saw that looked like a dealer install. The factory one has a different housing around the column, with on and off switches you access thought the steering wheel. GD

Yes - that's also why they were only on the sidwalk side. They are for getting in and out of the jump seats. GD

Looks like it's worth what he's asking. They are getting rare. Jerry got the insurance company to fork over $5,000 for his totaled Brat: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=598&highlight=brat+insurance And stuart c got like $3,500 for his on the east coast. I think $2,500 is fair and reasonable for the condition of that Brat. The topper alone is worth $300 to $500 probably, and that brush gaurd is worth another $100 easy. Extra tranny and engine add another $300 to $500 depending on condition. If I had the money, i would probably fork it over right now. I've been wanting a Gen 1 for a project. Ah well - maybe someday. BTW - should be a 1600 engine - EA71 - 1.6L GD

Where did you get your tranny and engine mounts Tom? And how much were they? Places I've seen want a damn fortune for them. GD

It is generally located in the intake manifold water jacket. GD

Megasquirt is certainly possible, but the original SPFI would probably not be a good choice. The carbed engines are different - the intake manifold is different, as is the compression ratio, and cam profiles. While it may work, it wouldn't be quite right is my guess, and you wouldn't get as much power. The SPFI engines have a higher compression ratio. You would also need the complete wiring harness, and the ECU - also the SPFI distributor is different - it incorparates a crank angle sensor. This can and has been done to EA81's (I realize yours is an EA82), so it would work, but it's probably more work than you think. I've been contemplating doing this to my Brat, so if you do it, tell us how it goes. Take lots of pictures, and make nice wiring diagrams too. We will all learn from your experience. GD

You can wire the secondary to open mechanically with the primary. And I think they are somewhat jettable - if you can find jets that will work with them. Could be done, but the weber is better since they aren't quite so quirky, and there's a huge aftermarket following of them. If you start modifying the hitachi, your on your own, and you'll never get the performance of a weber anyway - the hitachi is just too small. GD

Are we STILL talking about trucks? The Brat is NOT a truck. (Well - at least mine [85] isn't). 86 and 87 will have to refer to their title. I don't see how this law can possibly apply to a passenger car? Anyway - thanks for noting that they are grandfathered - and no law (no matter how obnoxious) will stop you from using them. The only way to stop us, would be to have the federal government declare a recal on all Brat's sold with rear seats, and make Subaru remove them. I think that the likelyhood of this happening at this late of a date is rather slim. GD

Yeah - I think it's legal in Oregon - even in a truck. As long as they are secured. GD

Simply drill out some chevy 6 lugs - two of the lugs line up perfectly, and all you have to do is get a big hand drill, and punch out holes for the other two lugs. Takes about an hour. Chevy 6 lug rims can be had in white that look very similar to the original subaru white wagon wheels. They have a more "aggressive" offset, that makes em stick out a couple inches, and they look REALLY nice. They cost about $25 each from tire shops. GD

The seats ARE unsafe, and court rulings have upheld this: http://www.seriousinjuryexperts.com/defective_vehicle_design.html In that case, the victim was awarded 2.8 million dollars! This was the reason Subaru removed the seats after 85, and simply paid the tax (price went up a lot). And this is also the reason the Baja does not have anything like this. Subaru's legal team would have strangled some poor engineer if they had so much as mentioned "Jump Seats". BUT THEY ARE STILL LEGAL. Period. The Brat is not a truck (except 86 and 87 models apparently), and ANY discussion about the laws governing "trucks" DOES NOT APPLY. GD

Riding in the jump seats of a Brat is LEGAL in all 50 states. The Brat is grandfathered because it was originally sold that way. Since they are original factory equipment, and since there are seatbelts for them, no one can say ****. They could probably ticket you if you put a small child back there, but other than that, there's nothing they can say. They *might* give you a ticket out of complete ignorance, but with the proper paperwork, you could get the charge dropped easily - you just have to show that they are original equipment for the car. The seats were installed so Subaru could import the vehicle as a car, not a truck, thus saving big bucks in import taxes (3% for a car, 28% for a truck). Therefore, since the feds mandated that the Brat is NOT a truck - VA law does not hold sway in this case. GD

But what about the God of Computational Geometry? My newly lifted wagon will participate at the next one if I can get there. And if I have the money - some tires will be on it maybe! Other wise I'll be running lifted, with 175/70/R13's :boohoo: I too pray (to the God of Computational Geometry) for hella large quantities of rain. GD

I think the difference we see in heaters is probably because most of the heaters here on the west coast are in near-new condition (we don't seem to have as much problem with radiators or heater cores as the rest of the country), and also due to our higher temp winters. Qman's right - our heaters up here are way too powerful. Your heaters cores could be clogged, and you also have a much colder winter. Even in the winter I have to keep my control in the middle, and the fan only up two notches. GD

If you are getting a clutch kit anyway - do the XT6 clutch swap. Someone on here can tell you what you need for that.... GD

Zip ties?!? You are crazy, and I won't send flowers to your funeral. They will not hold, and more than that, you will never get the spring compressed with them - which means you will NEVER get the spring back on again. It's not just a matter of keeping the spring at it's current compression, it's a matter of compressing it MORE than it is compressed (a whole lot more) so you can get the damn nut on the top. I've done it, and let me tell you it was a pain in the arse and the set of cheap spring compressors I bought will never be used again - there was so much force that it all but stripped the bolts out on them, and I wouldn't feel safe about using them again. Even tho they worked, my arm was tired for several days after, and they almost slipped off a couple times. Let me tell you, I was actually scared of them. Those strut springs on the subaru's are REALLY strong, and are easily compressed 50% or their actual size when installed, and need to be compressed about 75% to remove and install them. Don't be stupid - use the right tool for this job - PLEASE! GD

I'm going for 15" chevy drilled rims. No point in doing the 14's, as all the tire makers are phasing out their 14 mud terrains. GD

They may have made them at one time - hard to tell. But since Brat's are so rare now, good luck finding one. GD

Might check your O2 sensor as well - that's been known to screw up an otherwise good system. I had mine go (84 feedback carb), and the engine wouldn't run. Disconnected it, and it came back to life. The temp sensor on the same car was also bad, but didn't cause it to stop running. Also - can you read the codes from your ECU? Should be a little flashing light on it..... mine gave me codes for both the O2 and Temp sensor - led me straight to the problem. Very informative, and easier than hunting down the sensor by testing everything. GD

There are some actually - and I wouldn't mind getting one. There are some mean Justy's out there - producing upwards of 120 HP out of that little 3 cylinder. Power to weight ratio is sickening. GD

Yeah - know about the swampers - just too expensive. The coopers are a possibility tho. GD