GeneralDisorder

The 60K mile one time switch was for older (EA81) cars. Try cleaning or replacing your EGR, or anti-backfire solinoid. GD

I call a couple guys over, and do this: 1. Car on Jack Stands, with tranny slid underneath. 2. One person uses the starter hole as a grip, and lifts the front of the tranny, another person uses a length of rope around the tail of the tranny, and lifts using the rope through the shifter hole area. 3. Third person slides under the tranny while it's being held up, and guides it into place, with the help of the front person guideing the shaft. The person in the front then slips one of the bell housing bolts in. tighten everything up, and your done. GD

Weber actually makes a snorkel adapter I think - saw one on ebay a while back. GD

Yep - your inner (DOJ) joint has failed. These can be rebuilt - the outer joints cannot. Get used to the axle thing - Subaru's of your vintage eat axles - it's just a fact of life. GD

Axles will eventually snap, and having that thing break at freeway speed would be bad - would probably bend up a lot of suspension parts in the process. You can drive on them for a while - but they aren't technically "bad" till one breaks in half - till then they are "annoying" and "making funny nioses" but still doing their job just fine - transfering power to the ground. I say replace them before they really do go "bad" and take some other stuff with them. GD

You can't just seal the disty up completely - it needs to breath like the reaf diff - you can drill a hole in the cap, and run a tube from there to wherever your snorkel is located.... GD

You wouldn't bind cause the front would be free to spin. It's the same as when people weld their rear diff's and then pull a rear axle to drive on pavement. No binding there either cause the rear end is free to spin at will. LSD is not neccesary. GD

Yeah - yours is really messed up, but that's because it was at the beach. Around here, that's the only place the gets the rust. That's to be expected tho, cause of the salt air. Anywhere around the ocean will be like that. And even Flo's is not rusty enough to throw away - good rally car, or off-road car. Since we don't see much rust here, there's no law against driving a rust ball, and we don't have safety inspections either, so as long as it has a tail pipe that's solid enough for them to sniff, you be gid-ta-go. GD

I don't think I've ever seen a rust bucket in a yard around here - they are all wrecked, or have problems that cause them to not pass smog, or not drive (these are usually minor). Most cars around here just don't rust. And we have LOT's of rain too, so that's not the cause of it. GD

Sure - you could do that, but since you would have to remove the axle to take the outer CV houseing off of it (not easy to get apart, since they aren't technically serviceable), and then put that back in, it would be just as easy to replace the axle, and still have everything correct. Also - the stub axles will be exposed, and might get rusty, so you should cover them up. In short - it would be more work than just replacing the axle's, so wouldn't you rather have 4WD since it's less work? Just go to the JY and get some axles there. I usually get em for like $10 - $15 each at the JY. GD

It would be really funny to see them try and give chase with that pathetic little 2 cylinder! GD

HEY! You stole my method! That's how *I* do it..... no fair! The water ou hear is air bubbles in the heater core - you need to let the air out. Park it on a hill (nice steep one), and turn the heater on to get coolant flow into it, then remove the radiator cap with the car running - should fix up your problem. GD

Do the lift - it doesn't look as good, and you will have to cut out most of the fenders to get them on. The lift looks meaner, cause the whole body is 4" higher than on his. GD

The fact of the matter is that everyone here is pretty much correct. You could run vegetable oil or probably even a good grade of mud in a Subaru engine, and it would still last a long time. Here's my opinion's and what I have heard: 10w30: Fine for low mileage cars, but tends to be too thin for high mileage engines and often is associated with louder clacking from the hydro lifters. If you have high mileage, or loud lifters, use something heavier 10w40: Better, but I recall that this stuff has too much viscosity modifier in it, and doesn't lubricate as well as the oils with less VM in them. Also - still too thin for some of our older soobs with 150k plus on the clock. Also gets too thin when adding MMO to quiet the valves. For off-brand oils this is the one to choose tho, because their 20w50 doesn't flow well. 20w50: (specifically Castrol GTX): Flows better than other 20w50's I have seen, and has that added thickness that gives your engine much needed oil pressure. MMO can be added without the fear of making it too thin. I run this year round but we have very mild winters here, so most people probably can't do this. Other people on the board know what works best for winter (many people mix different weights) Now haveing said that - anyone that runs 10w30 in an engine with 150k+ miles is asking for trouble. The engine will wear no matter what oil you use, and after that long, you need a thicker oil to get full oil pressure to the top-end of the engine. GD

Oh - I didn't realize they would fit such a large tire. I was going by what I have seen, and mostly I have seen narrow stuff on them. I think the narrowness of the pug rims makes any tire you put on them *look* narrower than they really are. I don't know if having a narrow rim is any help when off-road, but for some reason, they just don't look right to me. But I concede that they may be ok for some applications. My point was simply that you won't save any money really with the pugs, and the replaceability of the chevy's is good if you bend up a rim. It can be hard to find pug rims, and probably will get harder in comming years, so I figured it would be best to just go to something we will be able to find in quantity for a long long time. (and the chevy white spoke rims just plain look good!..... they come in black too) GD

What you need: Drill Drill bit (proper size) Hammer Some subaru lugs from the JY Pretty simple really - take it apart, and you will see what I mean. Sometimes you just need to get your hands dirty - this is one of those times. GD

You need the whole clutch package too - and the pedal assembly, as well as the interior boots / console's and all the proper shift linkage. Also - I'm not sure on the EA82's but you may need a different tranny cross-member as well. Axles may be different if either of the tranny's was from a turbo, and the other wasn't. GD

HEHEHE - he said "muffler bearing" haha You rock skeet! GD

But the cehvy rims do bolt on when I'm done with em - I don't see your point. GD

Here's a pic of Qman's brat: http://usmb.net/gallery/albun40/Qmanandbuggy He drilled his hubs and added two studs, and moved two studs in order to make Subaru 6 lug hubs. You just knock two stud out, and drill some holes, and knock 4 studs into the hubs in the right place (use the rim as a pattern), and your done. Easy. GD

WHOA! GL's did not have the D/R standard - many were auto FWD's, manual FWD's and Auto pushbutton 4WD's too. GD

Problem with the Pugs is they are too narrow. The chevy rims (like McBrat's) can be had for $25 each BRAND NEW from shwab. Drilling them out is easy, and they have a nice wide offset that will make the tires stick out about 3 inches from the fender. So for the same price as Pugs, you get all the benifits of the pug, brand new rims, white with a similar pattern to the old wagon wheel, easy replaceability if you should bend one, and compatibility with the original subaru rims if you should need to use one (assuming you drill the rims not the hubs). So unless you are looking for alloys (need special lug nuts), I think the pugs are a pretty silly choice. (Oh and if you can't run your tires outside the fenders, that's no excuse either, as stock Toyota rims have a zero offset too, and work the same as the chevy rims [may have to drill the hubs instead tho] - Qman's Brat has a nice set on it). And if you drill the hubs then you should be able to use Toyota or Chevy alloys too. GD

5w30? good god man - TAKE IT OUT! Too thin. Especially with the MMO in it. Use 20w50 Castrol GTX - it seems to flow better than the other brands of 20w50. The heavier oil will help your oil pressure, and the MMO will thin it down to be just right. I run 20w50 in my engines all the time - winter too - I also use Rislone every other oil change or so in place of a quart. I use MMO to clean the engine, but I don't leave it in there for very long. GD

Yep - that's almost certainly a ball joint. Jack up each side, and remove the wheel. Insert a large prybar or screwdriver between the lower control arm and the hub. If you can move it at all, then the ball joint is shot. You can also look at the ball joint dust boot while the car is still on the ground. If it's torn, then the joint is likely bad, or going to be soon. One thing I have found, if you don't have a puller, and you find a good ball joint at the JY, then just take the whole lower control arm. It's easy enough to remove, and the hub end of the ball joint will come out easy if you remove the pinch bolt, and pry a little. I find a lot of good ball joints at the JY - if the boots stay intact, they last a long time it seems. All the bad ones I've come across had torn boots.... GD

He's a retard - the lift does NOTHING to your suspension, as you are simply lifting the body off the suspension and drivetrain wholesale. Everything suspension and drivetrain wise is left bone stock. The only thing it will do make the camber slightly negative. This will only result in tires wearing faster, and only if you use stock tires - if you put big off-road tires on, it will do basically nothing to them, since most of them are pretty tough. Remember - you are doing a body lift so you can put bigger tires on, nothing more. GD