GeneralDisorder

I've seen styles's car in person - it's pretty trick. If you like that sort of thing.... GD

Right you are moose - I was just speaking of all the other gen 1's - wagons and coupes and stuff. Cause he was wondering if anything from another body would fit.... GD

Going into first while moving is going to be very hard - always is. You probably need new syncro's, and basically unless you can do them yourself, this means another tranny. It's not a big deal really - you have to realize that the syncro for first gear has to bring the gears up to a pretty high speed before they will mesh, and that's why your getting the grinding noise. I hear that redline gear oil will help quite a bit with smooth shifting. Or just don't put it in first while moving - you shouldn't really have to anyway. GD

rig up a sheet of metal or something to prevent it from getting on the exhaust. That might do the trick. GD

80 Brat's are Gen 1's, and 80 everything else is Gen 2, so your going to have to get a door from a 79 or older "something else". I don't know if anything else will fit, but if they are like Gen 2's then it would be a coupe door that you are looking for. Don't think they had a Gen 1 hatchback, which is the other Gen 2 vehicle that will swap doors with gen 2 Brat's GD

Are you sure the oil is not dripping onto the exhaust or something? GD

Actually - it is illegal in Oregon to have tires that stick out past the fenders. There's one exception - if the car was at ANY time in the past registered for at least one year in Cali, then it's ok. That's the way it was explained to me anyway. Will the cops pull your over for it? Probably not. GD

Complete dissasembly is not hard at all, then you can use whatever cleaner you want. Check the shaft play in it too. If it's a ND then there should be NO shaft play at all. The Hitachi units will tollerate a bit more, but it still shouldn't be much. There's a place up here in P-town that will rebush the shaft for $35 GD

A good driver would always win in the STI - that would be my guess - the AWD would make for much better launches. Even from a rolling start, the 300ZX would burn out. The STI would not. GD

woudn't you need to lift the car to fit the tranny under the floorpan? Or heavily modify the floopan since it was desgined to accomidate a driveline, but not a whole tranny..... Just a thought. GD

Wish I did know a reference. The EJ22 will fit into even a Gen 1 Brat, so it is (I think) the narrowest of the OHC models. The EA82 is very wide, and *will* fit in a Gen 2 car or Brat, but with only like 1/2" on either side. I've seen a pic of an EJ22 in a car, and you might ask Mudrat79 what the dimensions are, as he has one in his an EJ22 in his lifted hatch. GD

Use an EA81 - it's much narrower. Or you could use an EJ22 - also much narrower than the EA82. You picked basically the biggest engine. Anything else would be smaller. GD

Subaru got 125 HP from the Justy engine (and they destroked it to 1.0L) - why not just stick with that. Putting an EA82 in there would be nearly impossible due to the size of the car. Also - as mentioned, the justy is transverse, and it's transmission layout is completely different than any other soob, so MASSIVE custom work would be needed. I say just work with the 3 cylinder. GD

with 67k on it, and for only 850 bones, I don't see how you could go wrong. Snatch that one up just so we know where it is. I'm sure that you would have no problem getting your money back out of it. GD

The FSM might say - not sure, but it may give a number of turns lock-to-lock for the two racks. Maybe someone could tell us. GD

One thing many of us have done, is to put some wire screen over the intake for the carb, so that peices of plastic can't get in. This has the added benifit that youcan leave it in place in case you ever blow one up in the future. GD

Check the members section for his screen name - should have a way to email him from there. You know that it's a 4/3 lift right? Not a 4/4. GD

Hey - that's cool. Someone should put that in the repair manual. Sounds like a good upgrade if the ratio is tighter. GD

The power steering is easy - I'm going to do that on mine as well. I talked to Mudrat about it - he said it's basically plug and play, and since there's no electrical parts for the PS, it's REALLY easy. And as for the doors - keep em anyway - you never know when you might gert another Brat, and you could always paint them. Easy to paint a door cause it's already off the vehicle. GD

Get the whole door - easier, and you'll have an extra hatch, Brat, coupe door for that rainy day. GD

To get rid of air in the heater core, it is generally neccesary to put the car on a steep slope, facing up, then burp the radiator by taking the cap off and turning the heat on to open the flow to the heater core. Clogged heater core is definately a possiblity, they get nasty inside like a radiator does, and eventually rust through and caues a hell of a mess in the car. GD

Damn! Wish I could have gone - but I will have my tires soon. I've already got over half the money saved! By next weekend, I should be good to go. GD

I'm sure you could do without it, but if you are going to do it right, then yes, you at least need relay's to control the window motors - you don't want that much amp draw running through the switches. GD

There's a power window control unit somewhere... not sure where, but just a heads up for you. I don't know what all it does, but probably works the auto up/down for the driver door I would imagine. GD

Hehe. I'm in the 141 Support BN. up here in Portland. I'm a mechanic (52D, but I do mostly 63b stuff). I'm getting out (medical), but we'll have to chat sometime. GD