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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. Offer to buy the "broken" parts off him cheap. Tell him you have a friend at a school auto shop that wants them for "research" hehehe. Make money of his stupidity. GD
  2. Sounds like you were indeed in 4 lo the whole time - at least by looking at your RPM data you were... The owners manuals say to *never* go over 40 MPH in 4 lo, so I hope you didn't hurt anything. If you didn't go over 55, then you are probably fine. I have heard of people blowing tranny's by doing 75 in 4 lo tho, so it is possible. GD
  3. You sure it isn't the rear drums in need of adjustment? It can be hard to tell where the sound is comming from sometimes. Especially when it only does it when cold. I had the exact same sounds comming from my wagon last year - only when cold, first few stops. I did brand new pads in the front, and it didn't stop! Turned out the rear drums had some pretty nasty old shoes in them, and had been out of adjustment for a long time. I did the front cause the pads were also very worn, and I just assumed that was the cause of the noise. GD
  4. Yes - I second the trans. You will have to pull off the clutch package and the flywheel to get to the main, so unless the clutch is new, this would be a good time to replace it. At any rate, you will need the clutch alignment tool to put it back together. You can use a big socket, or a peice of pipe to tap the new seal into place. Or sometimes I just work my way around it with small taps from the hammer if I don't have anything that size. Just make sure it isn't crooked when you are done. GD
  5. Best way to do the clutch is to pull the tranny in my opinion. The rear drive shaft is just a few bolts on the diff end, and the axles come off the tranny easy if you remove the lower control arm bolt. The sway bar has to come out anyway, so when those two are done, you have plenty of room to pull the axles off the tranny. Disconnect the shift linkage, and the cross-member, and unbolt it from the engine, and it will drop right out. I've done this a number of times with just jack stands in my driveway. I could easily do this in a day with a friends help to put the tranny back in (harder cause you need to get it up instead of down.... damn gravity). GD
  6. You might have to do some fiddling with the motor mounts, but assuming you could find a bell housing, and it worked, there's no reason it wouldn't drive. The carter / weber single bbl will not fit the EA63 intake, and even if it did, it's not jetted correctly for a 1.4L engine, so would run way rich, and really crappy. You'll have to find or rebuild the EA63's carb I'm afraid, as nothing newer will do the job. There's not even an adapter plate to fit the weber 32/36 on your engine, so unless you make one..... I say find a used EA81 and drop it in. Or fix the rod bearings on the one you have. Shouldn't be too hard. If it tests alright for compression, pull it out, and put some new bearings in. GD
  7. You should ask Ken what hood scoop he used on his Brat. If I were you, I would remove that spacer, and slap on the short filter. Or you could lift it, and use the big filter. Maybe get another hood if you are going to do major cut-and-paste to it. GD
  8. Yes - you should use the high-temp red RTV if you use it, and never use too much RTV, just makes a hell of a mess. If you use the right amount, you shouldn't get any inside the tranny. GD
  9. I do 4k-5k launches all the time in my Brat (in 4 hi) - you should be fine in the RX. It was really built for it. The most you will do is wear out the clutch. GD
  10. The Tranny can be removed from under the car with it on jack stands. It's really not all that hard. I wouldn't sugest trying to pull the tranny out from above. I've tried that, with no engine present, and it just didn't work, snagged on too many things, and those Subaru trannies aint small. Best to remove engine first, then drop the tranny out from the bottom. It's really easy with a jack and a block of wood. GD
  11. You probably need a new EGR vavle (or maybe just clean it), and there should be an anti-backfire valve near the firewall on the drivers side. There's a big tube going to it from the EGR..... either of these parts will cause backfireing on decel. I've never heard of the AIS system causeing this, and I wouldn't think it would - why would adding a little more air to your exhaust cause backfireing? I need a more technical explanation of that one. Backfireing is usually the explosion of unburnt fuels in the exhaust..... I suppose the added oxygen from the AIS might help that along, but I'm not sure. GD
  12. It's not a small job even on the old ones - believe me, as I'm one of the few people who has done it. I can imagine the newer ones would be worse, and probably much more expensive to do. I did it on my 84 cause it would have been VERY hard to find another car as nice as mine, and the parts to do it can be had pretty cheap. But even on the older stuff it's still more cost effective and time effective to just find a 4WD model. So unless there is something special about the 2WD that makes it worth it, or you happen to have a 2WD AND a wrecked 4WD, or something along those lines...... GD
  13. What is AVS? Do you mean AIS? The Air Injection System? If you block this off, you might still pass, but your cat will not be doing it's job as well as it should. Depending on your mileage tho, your cat may not be doing anything anyway, and you might still pass. Hard to tell - try it and see. If you fail, it costs you nothing. GD
  14. Yeah - use a bunch of RTV silicone. Great stuff. And of course check those sealing surfaces. GD
  15. Oh - and even with your extra spacers, the 1.5" should work. I didn't have that extra stuff, and I could actually close the hood with the 3" filter - but it did hit it, and pushed it down a little. Anyway, if the 1.5" won't work, then niether will a setup like Skip's I don't think - basically the same height as the short weber version. And for only $10, it's worth a shot.... GD
  16. I think your problem is not fuel pressure, but fuel volume. Mine does some interesting things like yours. If I take a hard left turn, she'll die completely, and then I have to restart - plain annoying. Also, I think there is a big difference in the fuel volume and pressure output from car to car. Age of the pump, and the state of the fuel lines, and gas tank may have something to do with this. I'm just speculating, but it does seem you have a lean condition, and the turning thing would definately be a problem if the fuel pump was unable to supply enough fuel to keep the float at it's proper level. GD
  17. There's was a red interior. I've seen it. Was in a late 80's RS. The PIMP interior! GD
  18. Intake between EA71 and EA81 is different, so I think the EA63 would be even smaller. GD
  19. Man - they are so plentiful around here I couldn't begin to say. There's so many outbacks and foresters around it's amazing. The white and red EA82's are both very common still as well - see them everyday. But I'm sure I see more outbacks and foresters. I'm just wired to see the older stuff, but if you really look, there's far more of the newer ones. GD
  20. You can get the short filter (1.5" I think) at any performance shop for about $10. I don't know why redline insists on giving us a filter that we don't need, is probably more expensive for them to make (more material = more cost), and won't fit under our hood. I had the same problem. I am with Skip in thinking you may have a lean condition. What fuel pressure are you getting? The weber needs a high-volume 4 PSI fuel source to work correctly. Here is a good page of info on that: http://www.racetep.com/webfuelspark.html#webfuel Low fuel pressure will cause surging like you describe. I put a clear fuel filter in my wagon, and can see the fuel flowing into it. With the stock pump, it's barely a trickle. I'm going to try one of those carter fuel pumps like they sugest when I get some money for it. GD
  21. I think rebuilding engines is fun, and we need to do it so Subaru and others will keep making the parts. If our engines last too long, they will stop making parts for us. Soob engines are known to go 300k + with crappy maintenece, so what is the diff? I use Castrol 20w50, and it seems to work fine. I change it every 2k, and with an interval that short, I don't think it matters one way or the other. This isn't rocket science guys. GD
  22. Diesel is awsome for off-road. I'll take a duece up against any off-roader out there, and barring the width, I'll go anywhere they will. Massive torque, 18,000 lbs of truck, and 6 wheel drive baby. 6 cylinder inline turbo diesel with pistons the size of coffee cans.... The military took a Hemmt (15 ton hauling capacity) to a tractor pull in Cali a number of years ago when the hemmt first came into service. It out pulled everything the civilians could throw up against it, and then some. Virtually unstoppable. Gives entirely new meaning to the going *through* the forest. If the tree isn't at least 6" around, you just drive right over it. The only thing that would beat a hemmt would probably be a tracked recovery vehicle Here's a Hemmt: http://military.railfan.net/mv/m977.jpg Here's the HET - used to move M1's from place to place. (M1's weigh about 26 tons!): http://military.railfan.net/mv/het.jpg And here's one of my favorites - the M578 recovery tank. They use these bad mofo's to pull stuck M1's out of the goo: http://military.railfan.net/mv/m578.jpg GD
  23. Damn - that sucks. Well - I have to go to this ARMY gig Friday, and Saturday... maybe part of Sunday, so I don't know if I'll be there or not. I'm going to try and make an appearance, but probably won't get there in time to run anyway . The ARMY thing is at Camp Rilea down at the beach..... And without tires (waiting on some fundage), I can't claim the offset thing. No roll cage either. I guess I'm screwed. Crap - when I get the Brat lifted, I won't be able to run that either. I'm going to have to find another soob just for rallying. Hey Zap - find me a Gen 1 Brat...... hehe You sure they will let you run your hatch? Bob had all that stuff, but the hatch doesn't does it? Maybe they will let you go cause you have done it before. GD
  24. Looks just like the two feedback 2 bbl EA81 Hitacihi's I have sitting here. My wagon used to have one, and so did my parts car. That one looks really nice - never used? Rick

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