GeneralDisorder

Agreed - Jerry, you should keep making them. Both Matt and Austin have attempted to use your kit on a vehicle it was not intended for, and it is therefore their problem to figure out how to make it work. You make a cool product, and one that the community is in need of. GD

You can't - at least not without a LOT of fabrication. No one (to my knowledge) has sucessfully done a complete suspension lift on any Subaru. With the exception of the rear end 3" lift that Mudrat does to the EA81's. It's not perfect cause the camber is off, but it is technically a suspension lift. Won't work for the EA82's - they have completely different rear ends. But please - if you have the resources to do it - design one for us! The people I have talked to have agreed that the major problem for us is the front axles - they simply don't have enough travel for suspension lifts. With the stock front axles, you might get another 1 inch of lift, but that's about it. The rear axles - since they don't have to turn, are good for 3 inches or so..... GD

You can find rust free Brats for $1000 or less here in the west. Easy. Seen quite a few of them. Bought mine for less than a $1000 in fact. Since it's an 82 - which is a special year. And rust free with a straight body. If it has the seats, prolly closer to $1500 would be my guess. If the paint is really nice, then maybe closer to $2000. GD

Yeah - actually, I did have mine spaced down with some washers before the lift - worked pretty well. You have to put them on the cross-member, AND under the big plates that the cross-member attaches too - I used something like 30 or 40 washers up in there - not enough to require longer bolts, but you could use more washers, and longer bolts... With the washers, I got close to a full 1" more space for the tranny to sit. I didn't do any pounding at all, and it was really easy to install. And all the shift linkages still worked fine. Sort of a mini body lift for the tranny. Also - you can adjust the pitching stopper back so there's not so much pressure on the tranny. That's how I did it - drove the car like 300 miles that way with no problems. GD

Yeah - hope to see you at the Xmas tree run! GD

Your not going to get rid of the negative camber. He didn't just add the coil overs to make it 3" higher - he also ratcheted up the torsion bar - and that is actually where the negative camber is comming from. In order to get rid of that problem, you would have to lower it back down the full 3" or it would still be negative. With big Mud terrians I haven't noticed any problems with tire wear. Heck - I didn't notice any problems with th 175's I had on there for a while. John confirmed this - he has never had a problem either, and he's run these lifts for like 12 years. I think that negative camber in the front is more of a problem because the front tires turn. Since the rear tires don't turn, it really doesn't seem to be an issue. Also - if you take a look at the clearance between the coil over spring, and the tire, you'll notice that with your wildcats there's about 1.5" between the sidewall and the coil. If you were to remove the negative camber, the tire would rub on the coil. I wouldn't touch it if I were you. And no - the PK lifts are not suspension lifts, so they do not have this "problem" (I prefer to call it a "feature"). GD

There are MANY floor pans for the EA81 series cars, and every one is different. Jerry's kit is made (I believe) to fit a 4 spd D/R car converted to a 5 spd D/R. For one thing - Matt, you started with an auto tranny - so different tranny tunnel there. Austin - don't knwo what you started with, but I think you mentioned it was an EA71 with a single range 4WD 4 spd - also different. I wouldn't go blaming Jerry's kit so fast - I think you both have odd cars is all. You will have to beat on it till it fits.... or lift it - that gets rid of the problem real quick. GD

I think you can get Pug rims in 14x6 too. GD

There is one big nut under the horn pad - there's several kinds of horn pads - some are screwed on from underneath, and others are just pull-off style. GD

The weber's will do that sometimes - try advancing your timing. Most people seem to agree that stock timing isn't right for the weber. GD

Yep - if they are far enough out of adjustment, they will not engage at all. GD

what are those specs for? Tourqe? HP? Something in-between? GD

You might have blown an ASV, and sucked a bunch of plastic into the carb - sounds plausible. Maybe not tho. Don't take it to a shop! There's plenty of us board members around that could help you fix it yourself..... GD

Yeah - same in Oregon - John has driven the Beast (12" hatch with 35's) around town in Eugene - they don't care. My wagon drives around all the time - no one cares. GD

The only lifts that you can buy are from either Austrailia, or from PKDavis ( http://www.ozified.com/ ) who makes the same thing licensed from a company in Austrailia. The largest lift he offers is a 4/3 lift (4" in front, 3" in rear). If your friend wants bigger than that, he'll have to make it himself, or contact someone like Mudrat79 (John) who does custom lifts (he lifted mine - check out my pictures in the gallery). He's here in Oregon, so he could easily do the car and deliver it to you in Washington I'm sure. He did a great job on my 3" lift, and he has a hatch just like your friends that has 12" of lift, and runs 35's - he took it on the Rubicon.... GD

Ok - just put the quarters to use in my ASV system, and the backfires are COMPLETELY gone. I talked to Mudrat on the phone, and he informed me that the actualy problem is likely the exhaust gaskets, or a hole in the Y pipe before the cat. This is sucking air into the exhaust stream and coupled with the air from the ASV system, is enough to cause the backfireing. Take away the ASV - problem is gone. Fix the exhaust leaks - problem also gone. So now I'll need to be putting on a muffler, and when I do, I can take a look for holes, and replace the gaskets. Also - the quarters fit well in the ASV body itself, on the head side. You can just slip a quarter down past the threads, and then thread the pipe back on the valve - thus disabling the system without really removing it. Good if you want to pass emmisions later on, but don't want to fix a bad ASV right now, or fix exhaust problems. Really neato trick actually - Thanks Ken. This one should go into the repair manual...... GD

I should have one - you need it with a radio, or without? GD

On that console - you need 2WD?, 4WD?, Auto?. I might have a 4WD one around here..... GD

Well snowman is mostly correct - the ASV (or ASV's) is roughly where he described, and it could be on either side - passenger or driver, or both. Also - on EA81's, it's not inside of anything - it's just sitting there by itself - couple of bolts hold it to the intake manifold. It could also have a vacuum line attached to the top of it. From it, there is a hose connecting to a black plastic houseing, which is sort of a muffler for the valve. If you remove this muffler from the valve with the engine running, you will hear the difference - it's MUCH louder. This is also where you should put the qaurter. I have yet to try it - I've been at National Guard drill all day today, and now I'm tired..... I don't think the cause of the problem is actually the ASV's, but rather an effect brought on by them working correctly, and introducing too much unburnt oxygen into the exhaust stream. If this oxygen is not used by the cat, then it causes an explosive mixture of fuel and air in the tailpipe - which spontaneously ignites when exposed to the hot exhaust. I have a feeling the problem is actually several things - possibly a weak cat, combined with a carb that is running too rich. My EGR is fine, and my anti-backfire solenoid checks out, so that is my hypothesis at this point. We'll see if reducing the amount of oxygen in the exhaust by blocking the ASV helps or not. I think if it does, I will simply remove the system entirely. GD

I think I see what you mean - the quarter blocks the ASV from taking in any air right? I'll try that out tomarrow - in fact, I'll have to block off both ASV's I suppose in order to fully test that theory. Thanks for the tip. GD

I've got REALLY horrible backfireing on the Brat - I've removed, cleaned, and checked the operation of the EGR valve - looks good, and works good. I've removed, cleaned and checked the operation of the anti-backfire soleniod - also should be fine. I recently blew an air suction valve, and had to replace that, and the silencer as it was melted. Those seem to be working fine, but some plastic got sucked into the carb.... I dug out all the plastic I could see, and she runs fine now - except for the backfireing. The backfires are so bad, that my passenger the other day thought he had been shot, and it's blown about five VERY LARGE holes in the muffler. What to do? Time for a weber? I had small backfireing on my wagon, and when I put the weber on, it all went away - never heard another peep out of it. I don't really have the money for a weber right now - can anyone recommend a good brand of rebuild kit for the hitachi? I can rebuild it myself, and have some experience along those lines, but I don't know where to get the rebuild kit. Also - specifically what in the carb could be blocked that would cause this backfireing? I'm guessing some plastic has eluded me...... GD

Did you get the carbs and the manifold too? I wasn't aware that there were any differences in the dual carb engines..... but I guess it's possible - please document any differences you find for us. GD

I installed the weber before the tires. Even with the weber, it's basically like driving a truck. I have to go to 4500 RPM before shifting, and if theres any serious hills on the freeway, I have to get over and let people by - and sometimes even go into third. On most one ramps, it takes the whole thing to get to 55 (reads out as 46 MPH on my guage now). It doesn't have bad acceleration - just drives like a truck - you won't be laying down any rubber with them. I can't spin the tires no matter how hard I try. If I got a better clutch, I think I might be able to chrip em. Don't be afraid of doing it - it's not all that bad. I can do 75 on the freeway if there's no major hills. Before the tires, I could lay down rubber for half a block, and then chirp em going into second - but I have a very good engine too. Low miles, and well cared for. GD

WHOA! I said nothing about emmissions systems. The muffler does NOTHING for emmisions. It is for noise control only. Take it off. I mentioned the smog testing because they will not pass you without a muffler - but because of noise control, not emmisions. I myself am anti-suv - good for you! 400 miles to a tanks is incredibly awsome! And it works out to over 25 MPG. That's great if your getting that kind of mileage. Your fuel tank capacity is in the neighborhood of 15.5 or 15.3 or something like that. The 4WD tanks are smaller. Throttle coil??!?...... to my knowledge there is no such thing. Try adjusting the idle speed screw on the carb. Stock rims are 13". Soobs of our era rarely came with 14's - they would be worth a good deal of money - more than your car. And 15's don't exist to my knowledge. Unless of course you are talking about pug rims..... GD

Just remove your steering wheel, and turn it over - no problem. GD