GeneralDisorder

Ok - couple of BIG things: 1. Route the cable UNDER the steering column - the splines on the steering shaft will eat a hole in the plastic of the cable, allowing water and other contiminates in, and the dry lubrican't inside the cable out - VERY BAD. It goes under the steering shaft, and under the heater core lines. OVER THE STEERING SHAFT routing is the most common reason for cable failure in my experience. This happens because unless you know it's wrong, the cable will work fine, and it seems the natural way to install it when your in there working...... you just have to know better. BTW - if you don't route it this way, the cable will be a lost cause within a few hundred miles..... will take more than that to snap, but the damage to the cable housing will already have been done. 2. When installing the cable it's a real beotch to get that little pin in and out unless you REMOVE the clutch pedal. Much easier if you just pop off the retaining clip on the pedal pivot shaft, and pull the whole pedal out about an inch - no need to remove it from the shaft, but I always do, and put a little brake caliper grease on the plastic sleeve bushings for the pedal. Also a good time to check the operation of the clutch engagement switch for proper adjustement. It's activated by a little rubber pad on the pedal. 3. Make sure the little rubber stopper pad on the pedal end of the cable is properly fitted to the metal tab on pedal box - you will see what I mean. There are two little rubber arrow shaped peices that must be pulled through two holes in the metal tab - they lock into place, and it's a rather tight fit - you will need needle nose pliers for it, as they are too tight to insert by hand. If that stopper isn't properly seated, the cable can rub on the metal tab, and once again...... bad times. GD

Doesn't matter - you can use either - depending on what kind of choke you want. Also - many DGEV's are labeled as DGAV's probably because they were rebuilt by weber, and switched. But the casting still says DGAV. So it's all really a mess - you can't actually tell just by the writing which one a carb is. You just have to look at the choke to tell. There's also manual choke ones out there, and conversion kits to make the others manual. GD

None - the engine is non-interferance, and you just need to put on a new belt and time it. GD

I had an 84 turbo (EA81T) wagon that blew all it's forward gears going down the freeway. Got it for free cause of that. It had 192k on it when it bit the dust. I know someone who has an EA81 coupe that keeps eating governors - as in they last about a week. Saw a coupe at the JY the other day that had "Bad Trans" written on the windshield - it had 177k on it. And there's the power issue. Take an already weak engine (73 HP), and then lop off about 75% of it's HP lost through the torque converter, now you have a 2400 lb car that's powered with a 20 HP engine. Not good. Better than the EA82 auto's? Don't know about that, but I can't imagine that's true. Neither were very good. I think the main complaint with the automatics is that they seem very un-Subaru-like. They don't last anywhere near as long as the engine even when maintained. It's impressive to go over 200k with an auto. On the other hand, by then most of the manuals have syncro problems - but that is due to how they are driven. At least with a manual - even with syncro problems it will usually get you home. With autos there's no knowing when or where they will die. GD

Yeah - your right, we are blessed up here. Went to the yard today, and since it's been cold here, there was three EA81 wagons, and a coupe there. And I don't even count EA82's there are so many - probably 15 or more in just that yard. Too bad they aren't poular down there, but I don't suppose you have much snow or wet weather either - probably why you don't see a lot of them. (the older ones anyway) GD

In my opinion, if your looking to run 15 lbs of boost, drop in an EA82T. There's people on here that run at least 14 on those with intercoolers and boost controllers. Trying to build a turbo EA81 from a non-turbo EA81 is certainly going to cost a lot more than simply getting your hands on an EA82T, and doing a little frame rail cutting to get it in. The EA81 was not designed to be turbo'd, and the turbo version of it (the EA81T) is considerably different. And while turbo'd carbs have been done, it sure is a lot simpler to run MPFI with a turbo. In short - it might be fun to try if you have lots of money to throw away, but there are SOOOOO many EA82T's out there in the JY's for cheap that you would never be able to do it for less, and the same amount of money put into an EA82T would yeild more HP anyway. If you really want power, drop in an EJ20T or EJ22T and an EJ series AWD tranny. More expensive, but since these are the WRX style engines (the EJ22T anyway - the EJ20 being similar in design), there's TONS of aftermarket parts for them. At least once a week someone asks about this - to date, no one has done it (for a car). There's a reason. I bet you can guess what it is. GD

My Brat sticks in 4th sometimes - you have to get the car moving a little bit, and it will come out. Don't know if that's your problem or not. Try moving the car - put all 4 corners on jack stands to relieve any potential binding - see if that does it. Also - you did check the tranny fluid right? If it turns out to be gummed up cause of a lack of fluid, or bad fluid, try redline gear oil - really good stuff - fixed my shift problems within a few hundred miles. GD

Local place in Portland OR that does disty rebuilds, and recurves. Done a great job for me a couple times now: http://www.philbingroup.com/ GD

Well - your going to have to do some serious trimming and beating. A 12" wide tire is going to be really tight - especially while turning. Also - regular car rims I don't think would have enough positive offset to get the tires to clear the front struts - maybe, but I think you may have to go with the ATV rims. If you get enough offset, and enough beating / cutting of the wheel wells, I don't see why it wouldn't work. Oh - and can ATV tires do freeway speeds? I don't know if they are rated for that - and are they radials? GD

enki made 14's - I think they were for pugs technically, but will fit. GD

I've only been to one meet, so I wasn't aware of the comming / going nature of the old gen crowd - sorry to hear that. I don't blame you for not expecting us to show - I wouldn't have done any different in your position. The failure of the PNWSEC is not your fault, and I don't think anyone is blaming you for it. Maybe it was just too ambitious. I don't think you could just "sign it over" to the old schoolers at this point - it's now too ingrained upon the new gen crowd, and it basically IS primarily their gig. As everyone has noted - there's the Hatch Patrol, and the Oregon Off-Road Subaru Club, and the RallyX meets that have become the new meeting ground of the old school types. I would still like to see the once yearly show - but maybe as others have pointed out, it should be a group effort between several smaller groups. The only problem then is that each group needs a point of contact - someong who can speak for that group. I don't know who those people would be - but maybe you ( Jamie ) could be a contact for whichever group you are most involved in, and just close up shop on the PNWSEC as it stands now. GD

There's too much diversification from what I can see to easily have one club for everyone. First you have two major groups - the gearheads, and the show-n-shine people. Now - the gearheads are split into two more groups - the dirt people, and the track people. And each of those groups is split into new gen and old gen. The show-n-shine group is mostly new gen, and they don't like to get dirty, so most of them are track types as well - if they even participate in that. Now these are of course broad generalizations, and not everyone fits into a clear cut category - and there's some people that have multiple cars, and are in several categories. Also - these are just MY personal observations, so may be wrong to some small degree, and indeed may be wrong to some *large* degree, but I can't help observing, and this is what I see. A lot of the show-n-shine people could care less about the race events, and the older gen stuff, so it's no good cramming it down their throats. They need their own show events, and it's no good dragging the old gen people along when there's no event and barely any awards for them as well. Now this works in the opposite direction too - the old gen and the dirt guys want rally events and to play with their cars, but the show people aren't interested in bringing their cars around a bunch of mud and dirt if there's no show event for them too. Like the RallyX - if I had a show car, I don't think I would have even driven it into the parking area it was sooo snotty. I think what I'm trying to get at is that we are so diversified that if you want to do one big yearly event, it's going to have to incorprate all of us. I don't think you can take just one "direction" and expect to have enough people turn out to make it a reality. And as for people being involved and helping out with the event, you would obviously draw from a larger crowd of people if you were to cater to more than just one group. It has been my feeling that the PNWSEC has catered mostly to the new gen group in the past. At WCSS5 everyone seemed very "suprised" at how many of us old gen guys showed up, and there were very few awards for the old gen class compared to the new gen classes. This was just the feeling I personally got from the show. I did have fun tho - met a lot of cool people, and will definately be at the next one. Hopefully there will be more old-gen-centric planning going into it than last time. GD

There's too much diversification from what I can see to easily have one club for everyone. First you have two major groups - the gearheads, and the show-n-shine people. Now - the gearheads are split into two more groups - the dirt people, and the track people. And each of those groups is split into new gen and old gen. The show-n-shine group is mostly new gen, and they don't like to get dirty, so most of them are track types as well - if they even participate in that. Now these are of course broad generalizations, and not everyone fits into a clear cut category - and there's some people that have multiple cars, and are in several categories. Also - these are just MY personal observations, so may be wrong to some small degree, and indeed may be wrong to some *large* degree, but I can't help observing, and this is what I see. A lot of the show-n-shine people could care less about the race events, and the older gen stuff, so it's no good cramming it down their throats. They need their own show events, and it's no good dragging the old gen people along when there's no event and barely any awards for them as well. Now this works in the opposite direction too - the old gen and the dirt guys want rally events and to play with their cars, but the show people aren't interested in bringing their cars around a bunch of mud and dirt if there's no show event for them too. Like the RallyX - if I had a show car, I don't think I would have even driven it into the parking area it was sooo snotty. I think what I'm trying to get at is that we are so diversified that if you want to do one big yearly event, it's going to have to incorprate all of us. I don't think you can take just one "direction" and expect to have enough people turn out to make it a reality. And as for people being involved and helping out with the event, you would obviously draw from a larger crowd of people if you were to cater to more than just one group. It has been my feeling that the PNWSEC has catered mostly to the new gen group in the past. At WCSS5 everyone seemed very "suprised" at how many of us old gen guys showed up, and there were very few awards for the old gen class compared to the new gen classes. This was just the feeling I personally got from the show. I did have fun tho - met a lot of cool people, and will definately be at the next one. Hopefully there will be more old-gen-centric planning going into it than last time. GD

There's lots of small supercharged motors out there - I know some company made a blower for the miata, and the newer nissan motors are commonly blown from the factory. I think all the xterra's come supercharged now. Lots of options out there for blowers - I know a buddy of mine was looking at a kit for his audi 2.8L - cost was around $3,000 for the supercharger and all the stuff to hook it up. I'm sure someone out there makes a blower for the older VW motors - one of those might be made to work. GD

rock on man. GD

Yeah - you don't want too big of a pipe comming off the heads - as McBrat noted. You'll lose your scavenging effect if the exhaust is too large. After a certain point (like after the Y pipe), you can go to a larger pipe for better flow without impacting the scavenging effect. Of course the size of the initial Y pipe will depend on how many performance mods you have done to the engine - the more air you are moving the larger your Y pipe ID should be. GD

Yeah - I would also like to see the drawings - do you know where they have gone moosens? GD

Any sound from your alt is bad news - sounds like your bearings are dying. Have it rebuilt, or get another one. GD

If your going to all that trouble - do a blower. No turbo lag, and blown carbed engines are common. GD

Just grab a used starter from a Junk Yard - try to grab one from a car that was wrecked - that way you will know it worked well enough to get the car into the wreck. GD

Yep - they are staked in - it will probably be cheaper to get a used one. It's rather expensive generally to put in serviceable joints. GD

Wow - that's really bizzare. Never heard or seen anything like that. Sorry to hear about how bad that car is going, but you know how it is with old cars sometimes - just keep at it, and you'll have a sweet ride. Sounds like it's time for a 5 spd transplant, and an EA81 rebuild. Don't give up - if I lived out there, I would help you, but I think it's a little far to drive for me GD

So even tho the shifter moves it's still in 4th gear? In mine the shifter won't move when it's stuck. Could you have tried too hard to move it and broke the shift fork in the tranny? How much force did you apply when it got stuck in 4th trying to get it out? On the 4WD lever - there is a neutral position between high and low - it's supposed to do that. Perhaps the 4WD shifter isn't properly adjusted - there's an adjustment for it under the console. And the 4WD Lo indicator light runs off a switch on the lever - NOT off the transmission, so it could still be lighting up, but the lever isn't pulling far enough. Just some thoughts. GD

Hey - My Brat does that sometimes..... well all the time actually. Can't get it out of 4th without a fight if the car isn't moving - seems worse when facing uphill too. Had to adjust my driving style to fit it. I take it out of gear before I stop rolling. I just figured it was a quirky transmission. Linkage seems fine in my case as well. I've had to slip the clutch and start the car moving just slightly in 4th to get it out of gear - when it sticks, it's REALLY tight. Anyway - sounds like the same problem - just a little quirky is all Hasn't bothered me yet - I learn to live with stuff like that cause I know I'll blow the tranny one day anyway, and put in a 5 spd. GD

Haha - I already have a Cell Phone - had one for 4 years. I want this for trail use - and as pointed out above - no coverage out in the middle of nowhere. At least with CB you have emergency band, and a chance of reaching some other 4x people. If I were wanting something stricktly for emergency's tho, I would get a sat phone - we have em in the ARMY. GD