GeneralDisorder

The RX tranny's weakness is it's lack of a really low lo gear, and the 3.7 diff. Those in conjunction give you no crawling power at all. Basically worthless off road. Good for rally driving, and gravel roads etc. Not good for hardcore off roading. Even 3.9 is too high. I would really like some 4.11's or some 4.44's, but it's not going to happen cause of the front diff. Unless of course you go with massive lift (6"+), and do the nissan transfer case type of thing. Then you can run any ratio you want. Such as legacy 4.11 LSD's or something. Or heck - even solid axles if you so desired. GD

Yeah - there is a metal sleeve in there - could be that your rubber is toast. Also could be that the nuts are just stuck. There is some play to the thing cause the body side is rubber mounted, so sometimes they are a bit hard to get started turning. GD

Used to be a Subaru tech eh? You get his number for future reference and tell him about the board? Incidentally - doesn't take a subaru tech to know that trick. That's worked for me on many cars over the years. Common problem. Last time that happened to me it was in an Infinity G20 Pull it apart, and rebuilt the solenoid. Or get a started from the JY. At any rate - rebuilt ones are pretty cheap. GD

I think you are confused Torxxx - the diff lock is not for the rear end, it's for the center diff - it locks the front to the rear on cars with "Full Time 4WD". You don't need a diff lock in the center because you don't have a center diff, and thus you are already "locked" 50/50 front rear when you're in 4WD. Also - the diff lock trannies are 3.7 gear ratio, which makes them almost useless for off-road - and even if they were 3.9, the only one that would be any good would be the RX tranny, cause it had the D/R. although I think the RX's low gear is higher than a regular low gear in a normal D/R 4WD tranny. Not totally sure on that tho. GD

I don't know about lynching for carving up an EA81T car - if it was a Brat then there's a good possiblity, but a wagon, or even a coupe... well, I would say it would have to matter who was carving it up, and for what purpose - and what condition it was it too. I wouldn't mind seeing some beat up coupe or wagon donate it's engine to build a turbo Brat - that would be alright by me. Turbo wagons and coupes are out there - but turbo Brat's are pretty hard to come by. GD

Pretty sure he's refering to Generations of cars, not heads Also - the engines are only a rough estimate, as there's a mix/match in some gens. What this really refers to is the body style of the car. Gen 1 = All 1979 and older models back to 19?? (fill this in you really old school guys). And 1980 and 1981 Brats as well. Gen 2 = All 1980-1984 Wagons, Coupes, and Sedans. All 1982-1987 Brats. All 1980-89 hatchbacks. Gen 3 = All 1985 - 1994 Wagons (DL, GL , GL-10, whatever), Loyales, 3 doors, sedans, etc (anything with an EA82 engine) GD

Well - I'm not sure what you are missing - you say you have the seats, and the bracket welded into the bed.... that's really all there is. Your seats do have the handlebars on them right? If not, then your are missing the metal frames that the seats sit on. Those usually aren't removed from the seats, but I guess it's possible. Those metal frames have two U shaped peices in the back that slip over the round peice, and two holes in the front where bolts hold them to the frame in the bed. The complete seat system includes (to my knowledge): Headrests (2) Headrest mounting rails (2) Headrest rail brackets (4) (welded into the bed) Seat mounting bracket (1) (welded into the bed) Seats (2) Seat frames (2) (the part with the handlebars) Seatbelt retractors (2) Seatbelt male parts (2) Seatbelt retractor covers (2) (vinyl bags) GD

Why would it do that? Other than complete rust-out, or massive body damage.... kind of silly to replace a car that you are going to put so much time into (ie: lift, tires, etc) cause of a little mechanical problem. I mean - that's cool if you want another one, but keep em both running - don't part it unless it's a complete loss. Just my opinion tho. GD

There were several manufacturers, and several styles - you'll have to be more specific I think. Also - pics would help a bunch. GD

Yeah - that bearing with the punch marks on it is probably the culprit I'm guessing. Having a bent bearing race could have caused it to squeal like that I'm thinking. GD

I'm sure your right that it will work fine. But you know me - always trying something. Wouldn't be any fun if I just left it alone. Always searching for a way to improve my setup. Still getting a squeal from somewhere - I think one of the clutch bearings. I want to pull the engine anyway so I can clean in there, and remove more stuff. Got a bunch of new gaskets for the engine too - oil pan, valve covers, exhaust, etc. GD

Anybody else got a clue on this? GD

Just try turning it one tooth one way or the other - be careful doing it. GD

There are MANY ways to fix that. Personally, for the time involved, and the nature of aluminum, I would probably just go get another manifold from the JY. At any rate, you should remove the manifold to work on it, and cut off what remains of the stud. Center punch it, and drill the stud out - don't go too deep. Then tap the hole out, and use a bolt instead of a stud to hold the carb down. Or you could put in another stud - up to you. GD

lifetime warranty is cool - but are you sure the car will last that long? I haven't been impressed with autozone for quality of parts. There's lots of places online that you can get two kits for that price. Also - if your going to do it, you might as well get a turbo clutch, or even an XT6 clutch. Better performance. The XT6 flywheel is lighter I understand. Not sure what the differences are in the Turbo flywheel. I just did my clutch - with Qman's help. Things to remember that I learned from him on this subject: 1. Replace the rear main seal - it's right there, and cheap. Use a little silicone on the outside edge of it, and some grease or oil on the inside where it touches the crank. 2. Use locktite (we used blue) on the flywheel bolts - they are tapped right into the crank oil passage, and the locktite will seal againts oil leakage. 3. There is a mark on the flywheel (little round "O" shape) on one of the gear teeth, and there should be a mark on the pressure plate as well that is similar. These marks should be at least 90 degrees apart when installing the PP onto the flywheel. 4. Grease the contact points for the release bearing holder where it contacts the fork, and inside the hole where the groove is. GD

broken link GD

Shouldn't - the carter/weber came on 83/84 2WD's as I recall. But the manifold and carb were the only differences - not the block. That's very odd tho. Never heard of that. Maybe someone who has built EA81's a few times can tell us. GD

Well - I was concerned about the size of the bearing being too small, and causeing premature failure of the bearing, or improper wear of the PP fingers.... I shall have a closer look at the EA81 bearing in relation to the fingers on the EA82 PP. And interesting idea tho. Was that one inch of play noticeable after adjustment? Weird to drive with? Actually - I want a heavy flywheel, cause this is going in the lifted wagon. Need the torque at low RPM's. GD

Yes - when the defrost is turned on, the AC is automatically engaged. Your AC idle up system is not working properly. The throttle should be opened up when the AC comes on by this system. GD

Well - for one thing, whoever told you the fuel cap may not be venting properly is smoking their shirt or something. All cars since the late 70's at least (not sure of exact year), have evaporative emmisions systems, and do not have vented fuel tank caps. The vent is a rubber line that runs to the engine compartment, and into a charcoal canister where the vapor is stored until it can be burnt by the engine when started. I agree on checking the engine codes. And that it sounds electrical. But less like a short, and more like a bad sensor or something. At any rate, my best guess would be a heat related electrical problem of some sort. Some sensor is cutting out it sounds like. Look for loose connections or corrosion too. Battery cables tight? GD

A regular EA82 on the flat and level would probably top out around 115 - 120. That's just my guess based on my personal experience. GD

Ok - I'm thinking about trying to put in an XT6 clutch PP into an EA81 with a 4 speed D/R. Now there's only two things I can see that might stop me from doing this: 1. The XT6 pressure plate is too thick, and doesn't fit - ie: no play left in the fork, or even worse - engine can't bolt to tranny. 2. Can't rig-up or fab in the release bearing, and it's little holder gizmo. So I came up with this list of parts: EA82 flywheel (needed for the PP to mount up) EA81 clutch disc - 4WD (same diameter as an EA82, but has proper spline count for the 4 speed D/R EA82 PP (XT6, Turbo, etc...) EA82 release bearing Possibly have to use an EA82 fork too. Ok - so the only tough part I can think of is the fabbing in of the release bearing and the EA82 fork if needed. I'm thinking I may need to have a machine shop do something with it. Anyone done this? I'm asking to see if anyone has tried this, and what they may have ran into, and if anyone knows if the thickness of the EA82 PP is such that it just wouldn't go together... I want a stiffer PP, but centerforce wants nearly $500 for a clutch kit for the EA81. On top of that, I'm not sure I'll keep the 4 speed forever. Some day I may go to a 5 speed. The money output to get a centerforce is not worth it for what I want to do. And at least I'm fairly certain that dirt and debri won't clog up an XT6 pressure plate - which I don't know about the centerforce stuff. too money for just an experiment. And if the XT6 PP can be put in, it should give improved performance. GD

Yep - should be no problem. The only Pugs that require funny lugs are some of the alloys I think - not all, just some. Not sure which tho. GD

The EA81T x-pipe, and the EA82T x-pipe are the same (don't know about diameter tho). The head flanges on them are turned 180 degrees, sou you have to remove, or turn the spacers under the heads - which means the ASV(s) have to go. I think he said there's some tweaking involved, but I'm not sure exactly what... GD

Well - Gen 1 parts won't help my Gen 2 much I don't think, but hey - you might find some Gen 2 stuff right? GD