GeneralDisorder

I buy loose quarts of Redline for $8 ($7.99 actually) a quart here at a place called discount import parts. Not cheap, but better than $12, and I don't have to buy a case to get that price..... No tax here either GD

Ah - I see. Yes, for crawling the 5 speed D/R is good. GD

I'm just saying that without a frame-up restoration of the car, the problems it will have cannot be fixed all at once. Sure - I won't have to do the Clutch for a while now in my wagon, but if I bought a newer car I probably wouldn't have had to do it at all. These things crop up over a period of time, and that can be frustrating to someone that doesn't work on the car themselves. GD

General rule is if your not mechanically inclined, go with the newest car with the fewest miles you can find for the price you want to pay. EA81's are great - they live a long time, but unfortunately, these cars are getting old, and old cars are not generally reliable. Mine give me little hints to this effect all the time. In the last month alone, I've done this to my wagon: Clutch Power Steering ilder Power Steering belt And this to my Brat: Exhaust leak - not fixed yet Bad Air Suction Valve - replaced Plugged off both Air Suction Valves Thermostat and gasket Alternator Belt Battery This is JUST the last month, and it's like this EVERY month. And I've got 2 cars that I split the mileage between fairly well. It's not that they aren't reliable, it's that they've been on the road for 20+ years. And the Alt on the Brat is going out. Now these are not cars with lots of miles - the wagon has 158k, and the Brat only has 128k. They are old, and just like old people, they require constant attention. EA82's are not going to be much better really - and they have the timing belt breakage every 60k or so. My vote is for a Legacy or an Impreza as well - they are newer, and you won't have to mess with them nearly as much. Also - your chances of finding a mechanic that can work on your car are greatly improved. Our old EA81's and EA82's are virtually unkown to the dealership, and getting to be a rarity on the road even. GD

My Weber runs fine - and I'll bet you $1000 that it starts and drives off quicker than your hitachi. But that's not the reason we use them - we use them because they flow better, and in the quest for moster low-end torque, you need that extra fuel and air - no way to get it with the hitachi. Also - it radically simplify's the emmisions systems (there are none), and allows easier mounting of things like snorkels, and manual choke's ect. Also - when it comes time to have it rebuilt, any shop around town can do it for $50. They really are a superior carb, and the reason you hear people trying to work out the bugs is because more and more people are switching all the time. There's always someone who has *just* completed the swap, and is having trouble getting his setup just right. Once you have them dialed in, they are AWSOME. Much better than the Hitachi. And when you start modifying things like the cam, and decking the heads, etc etc - you run into a wall with the Hitachi - it can't keep up with the demands of the engine, and becomes a real bottleneck. The Weber has no problem with engines up to 3.0L in size, and thus can be jetted correctly for a high performance EA81 to realize it's full potential. In this arena, there is no comparison because the Hitachi simply cannot keep up. Oh - and the sound they make is just too cool. GD

The front drivers side is like a 2.5"x3.5" - there's no direct replacement availible. The passenger side front is like a 3"x4.5" or some stupid thing - nothing for that either. Also - you can't use the factory wireing because it's common ground, so you'll have to rewire anyway. Might as well replace those crappy speaks with something else while your at it. I got some speakers that were close in size, and just MADE them fit - lots of work with a dremel - they are in, but it was a pain in the rump roast (talking about my Brat here). On my wagon, I just disconnected them, and put the tweeters on the A pillar, and the mids in the forward section of the door. Problem with the door speakers is they are really shallow, and anything you get that will fit in there is going to be deeper, so you'll have to space them out. The factory location is REALLY bad as it projects the sound right into the seats :-\ I built custom boxes and mounted them further forward after removing the map pockets. It's a pain to wire in decent stereos into these cars, but it can be done. Had my car ripped up for days doing this.... GD

Yep - it's been done. Quite a number of examples out there actually. I've seen pics of Gen 1 and 2 Brats with EJ swaps. Mudrat79 has an EJ engine in the beast..... There's also people with EA82's, EA82T's, and ER27's in Gen 2 Brat's. GD

Really depends on who you talk to. Some sites I've seen say 5 to 7 psi, and others say 2 to 3 psi. The stock carb fuel pump is not supposed to put out more than 2 psi acording to the FSM that Qman was reading when we looked it up. GD

It's not your speed selector - it's the resistor block. Grab one from a JY that isn't burned out. GD

You talking EA81 or EA82? It would be more work to try and fab something with the manifold than it would be to aquire a set of MPFI heads. GD

I don't have any LSD's at the moment, but if I did, Redline would be in it. John (Mudrat79) has Redline in all of his, and speaks highly of it. You can run their regular gear oil, and add their LSD additive, or you can buy LSD oil that already has it in. They have a huge array of different products - one of them is sure to be correct. I would call em and ask, or visit their site to see... GD

Tristan - no - the 4 speed and 5 speed are completely different internally. Jared - he's talking about an RX D/R, not a loyale one, the RX has a higher lo gear - 1.2:1 instead of 1.45:1, and requires a 3.7 diff, DRAMATICALLY reducing his crawl ratio. The 4 speed is better. But as he pointed out, he's not off-roading, so crawl is not what he's looking for. GD

The CIS in not way easier than the SPFI - you need MPFI heads, and the only way to get those for an EA81 is to use EA81T heads, which are rare, and fairly spendy if you can find them. The SPFI bolts right up, and you just need an 85 or 86 disty, and take it to a disty shop and have the proper gear put on the end. There's a couple other things that have to be done to it's caseing as well. The rest is just wireing, which if you start with a complete SPFI wireing harness. the FI portion could be stripped out fairly easily. GD

I run Redline gear oils in everything I've got - wonderful stuff. You can call em up and they will tell you what to run depending on your application. GD

The XT6 has a stronger pressure plate - that's the one you want. GD

That's why I was saying you should get mine. Likely you will *never* find your style without rips. And if you do, they will rip on you anyway. That vinyl is crap. The ones I have were actually an option for you car..... came from my 84 wagon, and are blue - just like your interior. Would love to see them go in such a nice turbo wagon.... You could always keep your old ones too. They just bolt in / out, so it's easy to swap em back and forth - only takes a few minutes. I have front and rear - all in good shape - I would even make you a deal on em since you so obviously need them GD

Are you going to off-road it? If so, you should know that the RX trans is not much good for that. It's low range is only 1.2, and coupled with a 3.7 diff, that results in a crawl ratio of 4.44, where as your 4 spd D/R has a low range ratio of 1.45 and a rear end of 3.9 resulting in a crawl ratio 5.655. (you of course need to multiply these by the ratio of first gear to get your final output ratio, but you get the idea). If you are going to rally it, then it might be alright..... You might run into spline issues - the turbo cars had 25 spline on the EA82's, so I think the RX trans does as well. The EA81 axles will not fit if that is the case. Just some info for you.... GD

The stock carb fuel pump is rated at 2 psi - Qman looked it up in the FSM. This is not enough for the Weber. The Weber runs best at 5 - 7 psi. And after 20 years, I don't think my fuel pump is even putting out 2 - I think it's lucky to be getting .5 at this point. I have a clear fuel filter, and I can see how fast it's runnning through it, and it's barely a drip. I'm going to be replaceing it with a carter fuel pump putting out 7 psi, and a pressure regulator so I can adjust it to where it needs to be. I am running no return line - doesn't seem to matter, and the carb manual said to cap it off. My gas mileage when the car was 2WD with 175's was about 30 - 32 MPG on the freeway - little less in town. With the big meats I have now, there's no telling what it is. Probably a lot less, but without an accurate odometer, I can't really tell. GD

Hey - I know you really want to buy my seats for your car don't ya? http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7906&highlight=EA81+blue They would look good in there I think..... GD

I have heard that they get "sluggish" after a few years, and it's a good idea to replace them. The ECU can only tell you that the 02 sensor is out of voltage range, it cannot tell you that it isn't repsponding as fast as it used to to changes in the fuel mixture. Also - I like to replace them because they are a real bitch to get out sometimes, and when I get a car that is unknown to me, I replace it, and use a bunch of anti-seize on the threads. And every so often when I have the exhaust down, I like to take them out and refresh the anti-seize on them. But I'm just crazy that way...... had to remove one too many that was frozen beyond belief. GD

This is the fan speed regulator if I'm not mistaken. It's what is responsible for the different speeds for your blower motor. They are very often burnt out like yours. GD

No reason to remove it - and we are talking about completely different systems than you are. Feedback carburetors - not SPFI. I took it loose because it was so bad that it caused my car not to run. I did replace it, and noticed no real improvement, other than my ECU light didn't come on. GD

As for me, I never noticed any difference with or without my O2 on my feedback EA81. Was always about the same 26 - 27 MPG. The ECU did get pissed off after about 10 to 20 min of driving, and turn the light on, but other than that, no real difference that I could see. Now I'm running a weber, with no 02 or ECU. GD

Yeah - that was my thought on the manifold - doesn't look like a justy cause it's got 4 flanges - looks like an inline 4 cylinder - no subaru I know of came with one of those.... GD

You cracked the Y pipe? Like at the flange? Or did you crack the head or the spacer that attaches to the head? GD