GeneralDisorder

Yeah - it's on the intake manifold as I recall - it screws in, and with the hose attached it is pretty stealthy - just looks like a nut on a vacuum fitting or something - if you pull the hose off tho, then you'll see it.... GD

Yep - that's the usual method. There's lots of guys on the board that have done it with EA82T's - a few with EA81T's. Really the engines are almost identical with respect to ignition and fuel systems, so much of what they have done will apply I'm sure. GD

A considerable amount - also having the suspension adjusted up like that makes it stiffer, and you don't get as much travel. You CAN mount them tho - it just requires a whole lot of trimming. You won't have much left for fenders really. You consider a lift? It would accomidate 26's without any trimming if you go that route. GD

Well - water cooled, and oil lubricated I think would be the more correct terminology - but I do agree that the oil does in fact carry heat away from the turbo as it's lubricating - and the EA81T's do have an auxilery oil cooler, so I agree in principle with what your saying Mick. I just simplified it a bit 83 1/2 - I'll file that away in my memory banks. No wonder I see so many more 84 Turbo's than 83's..... GD

Sounds like you may have had a weak Presure Plate - if your installing all the parts you like you say I wouldn't forsee you haveing any trouble. You might replace the clutch cable while your at it - they are pretty cheap ($20 or less), and do wear out eventually. Also - you should go ahead and replace the rear main seal on the engine - they are cheap too, and easy to reaplce while your in there. Just remove the flywheel and its right there. Remember to use a little silicone on the outside of the seal, and some grease or assembly lube on the inside of the seal. And use a dab of licktite on each of the flywheel bolts as they are tapped directly into the oil passage of the crank - this will seal them properly. Clutch life is highly dependant on driving style, and conditions. 147k is an exceptionally long life I would say - most clutches last me 100k or less. (but then I drive like a damn maniac...). They can last up to 200k or maybe more depending on the driver. Your son may just be hard on em.... GD

I'm sure you *could* probably build something. But what happens when you go fording? Whatever is in there is going to get very damp I suspect... and if you get stuck in a big puddle and you need something you stored in it..... still - you might be able to get it watertight... (still can't open it while it's under water tho). Seems like a lot of work for a very small gain - your wagon has a big cargo area, and I've never filled mine up even with passengers and all my gear. That area is where I'm planning to mount my air pump.... Also - To get something in there that would have the same safety charactersitics of a spare tire is not realistic. The tire - being rubber, has quite a bit of shock absorbing ability, and also is quite string due to the air contained inside it. It's a bit like an air bag when hit by an engine at high speed - it slows down the speed of the engine when it hits it.... I think that would be very difficult to replicate, and probably a waste of time. GD

Awsome - yeah - totally fix it up. Actually - you can add an intercooler and a boost controller to get some more performance - several people have done it. Another thing you should be aware of - the turbo itself on the EA81T's was a recall because it was originally oil cooled. These were found to be a fire hazard or something, and were replaced with water cooled turbo's. Your may or may not have the water cooled turbo. If it doesn't no problem because the EA82T turbo works just fine - you simply have to plumb in the water lines for the turbo. I think the EA82 Turbo is also slightly bigger, but will bolt right in apparently. You could easily get it up to 120 HP I would think with an intercooler, and a manual boost controller. Both are pretty cheap upgrades - you just have to find an intercooler, which can be a bit difficult. Look for saab's and mitsubishi starion's and things like that at the JY. GD

Jets could be smaller on the 1600 (I'm not sure - but it stands to reason) - try an 1800 carb, or put a weber on it. GD

Also - you should know - your engine won't bolt up to a D/R tranny without a bell houseing change. There were EA71's with the proper bell housing in later model cars..... I'm not totally sure but you may be able to swap the bell housing off an EA81?? Still - if you going to all that trouble why not just do the EA81? Either way you need that D/R - for the gearing, and for the clutch. The EA81 '83+ clutch is MUCH bigger, and when I had the little clutch in my car it slipped badly with big tires because it was just too small and didn't have enough surface area. Jared had an EA71 in his wagon with D/R and it does just fine off-road... with a 3" lift. I was thinking more about the on-road handling. When I talked to Mudrat who had just driven Jared's car to his shop, he said it was quite gutless with the swampers on it (on the freeway). Going over the pass at high altitude was not fun he said. Like I said - 3" or 4" would be fine - just have to get the D/R tranny in there.... anything higher and your pushing the limits of the 1.6 for tire sizes. 28" would be alright, but a 6" lift can accomidate around a 31..... that's a lot of tire to move with that little engine. GD

Yeah - #1 do a compression test. There's no sense in messing with the ignition systems etc, it you have no (or low) compression in 1 or 2 cylinders. GD

That's why most of us cut the fenders out - thus allowing our tires to "fit" in the wheel well again. My tires fit just fine up in there. Rooinator makes good points - he knows what he's talking about. Independant suspension could be designed for better travel, but we just don't have the aftermarket that solid axles have, and so we are stuck with what we have, and modifications that we do on our own. The biggest barrier to a long travel suspension for the soobs is the axles - they just don't have the travel, and if you go more than their 12" or whatever they have, you'll pop the axle out of the joint.... better axles need to be designed, and the rest would be pretty easy - lots of fabrication, but pretty straighforward. GD

Shipping to OR would be nowhere near $15 each way. More like $8 each way via UPS I would say.... a disty only weighs a few pounds and it's a small package.... XSNRG was telling us about shipping - he shipped a whole set of rear discs for $30 - rotors, backing plates, calipers, and brake lines.... He also shipped TWO EA81 coupe doors for like $60...... I shipped a 50 lb LSD diff in a bannana box for $22.50...... GD

PKDavis does not make Gen 1 lift kits. Gen 1's are hard to lift - Mudrat schooled me on that when I asked him. Would be expensive I think.... never seen one with more than 3", and while I'm sure it could be done, it would require much modification. Your looking at probably $1000 for 6" is my guess due to all the fabrication that must be done, but exact numbers would have to come from John. Also - if you go higher than 3", you almost certainly will have to convert to a HiPo EA81, cause the EA71 you have isn't going to cut it pushing those big tires, and besides that you will want the 5 speed D/R in there anyway, and if your going to that much trouble, you might as well swap out the engine too..... On second thougth - it would be well over $1000 considering that you'll need the front cross-member and steering linkage modified to fit an EA81, and the trans linkage redone - as well as the cost of the engine and transmission - plus the lift and any fabrication that goes along with it..... Add to all that the cost of custom bumpers and brush gaurd.... and a roll bar with lights and everything..... maybe a winch. Not trying to discourage you - I think a lifted Gen 1 Brat would be awsome.... but you should know that the cost is going to be higher than a Gen 2 due to the difficulty, and it's lack of useable engine and tranny. I would say 3" is perfectly doable... still not going to have any power with the 1.6 and big tires - but would be driveable. And your lack of a D/R is going to be a killer off-road. Would look mean, but without the engine and tranny it would be all show. Or you could buy a Gen 2, and lift if for $375 yourself (PKDavis lift).... GD

He's not blowing smoke - they are definately rare. Worth restoring if the rust isn't horrible. They were technically made in 83, but most of the ones I've seen or heard of are 84's - not sure why, but the production numbers for the 83 model year may be lower. At any rate they didn't make many of these. It's not just the Brat either - they only made THAT ENGINE for 2 years - the 83 and 84 were the only years of the EA81T. The replacement to it was the EA82T, which is similar, but is OHC, with timing belts..... Thing is - the turbo motor doesn't make a good hard core off-road engine - too complicated, and too rare to find parts to easily fix. Plus they don't have the low-end. Too much restriction with the turbo when it's not spooled, and difficult to keep it spooled at low speed. And the turbo engine is only making 95 HP compared to the N/A engine at 73 HP. The N/A engine can easily be brought up to 120 HP+ with just a few mods (cam, deck heads, weber, turbo muffler, etc). If you want something to play in the mud, get a regular Brat that's in the same shape or better and let someone restore the turbo - I'll bet someone would trade you..... GD

I was told by CCR that it's very difficult to install those bushings without the proper equipment - the old bushing has to be ground out, and the new one pressed in, and if it's not done just right, the disty will be toast. I think the guy from CCR said he ruined about 10 before he got one right..... I chatted with him over email when I was looking at my options for doing the bushings or getting a rebuilt unit. I had mine rebushed by http://www.philbingroup.com - they are local for me, and the bushing was $35 (parts and labor included), and the vacuum advance was another $20 - so $55 total to have a perfectly working disty again.... And I marked my disty with a black marker - the guys at phibin saw my mark and actually put some white paint (paint pen I guess) over it to make sure it wouldn't rub off when they were working. Very profesional I must say. They even painted my vacuum advance gloss black for me - part of the service for $20. GD

There was no key code, but a good smith can make a key in minutes - they have a very simple key pattern - at least mine did. The pattern was so simple as to almost not be a lock at all. It was just a bunch of the same ridge over and over - not a complex cut. He made it from a blank with a hand file, standing next to my car! - no cutting tools required. GD

hhhhmmmm - the nippondenso disty's were 2WD. Will still work tho.... vacuum advance connection might be different. GD

I'm a little confused - which way are you going? You could put a 2WD EA81 tranny in, and use a 4WD clutch disc for an EA81..... I know the 2WD and 4WD on the EA81 have the same splines.... GD

I had mine keyed at a locksmith booth - cost me like $10..... There really simple locks, and can be keyed in about 5 minutes if he's taking his time... GD

He's talking about Jackmans - not regular wagon wheels, and they doo need grinding on *some* Gen 2's..... GD

Very useful to take pictures. The swap your doing isn't terribly common for the simple fact that most people with the older cars prefer the EA81 and it's lack of timing belts. But the EA82 is a great motor as well. Miles has a good idea of what needs to be done, as he has performed this swap - I've even seen his car in person which he drove to the West Coast from Indiana!! Good luck on your swap - sounds like you should have no problem at all. One thing - it's prefereable to use the EA82 flywheel if you can because this allows the use of the heavier duty clutch from an EA82 turbo car, or even one from an XT6, which apparently has the strongest PP of the lot. The hill holder - just to give you some background - was invented back in the 50's by Studebaker. To my knowledge, Subaru has been the only company to pick up on the idea and use it in modern cars. They just recently brought back the hill holder functionality on their latest 2004 model line (I think some - not all of them), which went away for the most part after the switch to hydraulic clutches instead of cable operated. GD

Hass - you have a PM. You too flow... GD

Ok - good, I'm not crazy then. GD

Dual EXHAUST ports on turbo and MPFI EA82's??!? I mean - I know they are on the intake side - with the spider manifold and what not, but I thought they were single port exhaust? GD

Absolutely Caleb - this is a discussion forum - if everyone was right ALL the time, then there wouldn't be much need for discussion. We all have our specialties - I personally know more about EA81's than anything else - you know about the turbo's. It was logical to think that there would be only one type of disty..... alas it is not so. 2WD differs from 4WD, and even those are different from year to year. Any of them should work, but I wouldn't expect timing to be the same at any given RPM. You can even use carbed EA82 disty's.... with a little work and modification - you have to cut off one mounting ear, and put the EA81 gear on the EA82 disty shaft, but it would work...... GD