GeneralDisorder

Go post on the marketplace forum - when I needed one, several came up - then I found that local place that rebuilds them, and went that route instead. I figured it was best to just get it over with, and I've put a 10k on mine with the new bushing and nary a blip to be seen on my tach (it would occasionally read 7,000 RPM's while idleing with a bad disty bushing ). I think I spent a total of $55 to do my bushing and my vacuum advance unit. Drove my dads van for a day, and was back on the road the next morning. At least around here the JY's charge about $35 for a disty IF you can find one, which is a BIG if. There almost always picked. I'm not sure why other than people don't know you can rebuild your disty rather than get another - virtually the same price to have a bushing installed, and that seems like a lot better investment to me. GD

Well it's not as simple as that - IF he got one from EXACTLY the same model and year, he might be alright. But there are two different brands of EA81 distys, and about four or five different vacuum advance units, all with different curves in the disty, etc. So it *might* be right, but why not be sure about it? GD

Well - on most auto trannies, the filter is IN the trans, so you actually have to drop the pan to get to it I'm not 100% positive you even have a filter, but I think that at the very least there is a screen down there, and your pan could probably use a good cleaning of all the debris that has collected down there. The shifting diffuculty is almost certainly the governor. They get sticky from rough edges, and don't work as they are supposed to. This can be fixed pretty easy by removing the governor, and dressing up the edges of the mechanism with a whetstone or fine grinding wheel.... the online repair manual has a whole article with pictures etc..... I've done it before, and didn't find it that hard - take your time, and do the job right. GD

I wasn't being harsh - just jesting with Matt a bit. He IS confusing the situation by bringing in his silly MPFI turbo to a discussion about carbed non turbo engines with entirely different computer systems.... Are you refering to the AC idle up? It's an 84, and thus may very well not have AC..... do the carter webers have an idle up even if there's no AC? Wish I knew more about the carter weber so I could help with this one, but I still say switch to the hitachi..... GD

Yep - caleb your right. But he asked if he would need a gun to install a JY one - and since it did not come from his vehicle, I would say yes. Possibly you could do it without, but guesswork is not the way I work on my cars.... and I don't reccomend that others work that way either. Also - I personally like to do things the right way - and if that means I spend $19.99 on a timing light to do it right, then that's what I do..... or I borrow one from a friend or something. GD

Any EA81 axle - period. (the one exception being the 81 GL Brat - that's a no go). However - a TRUE 4WD axle is about 2mm thicker than a 2WD axle. Often when you buy a "4WD" axle, they turn out to actually be 2WD ones..... some of the rebuilders don't really care I guess.... And frankly, I don't think it matters - I've never seen or heard of anyone breaking the shaft of the axle - it's always the joints that break. I have 2WD axles in my lifted wagon right now with no ill effects. And there only $55 from http://www.cvaxles.com - which MANY board members recommend as the best. I don't think I would trust anything but theirs, or a new one from the dealer. GD

Oh - yes, forgot to mention - the place I linked above can rebuild your vacuum advance for $25 as well. And they even painted it, and polished my disty for me when they did the rebush. I was VERY happy with their service.... did I mention 24 hour turn around? Nice guys too. I think that a rebuild from CCR will actually have a NEW vacuum advance unit, and probably NEW ignition module too - thus the higher cost. And I hear they do great work too..... for this job tho, I don't really see the need to go to the expense of a whole rebuilt disty, when all you really need is a rebush.... your ign. module is working fine it sounds like.... course it wouln't be bad to have it lying around as an extra I suppose.... GD

Your governor may need some attention. These transmissions are known for their tendancy to blow up if you look at them cross-eyed... be very careful with it, and start changing it's fluid and filter often. Change your fluid - have the thing flushed. And check out the online repair manual - there's a good artical in there about how to properly "tune-up" your governor... Best thing you could do, is switch out to a manual transmission, but that may be more work than you are interested in doing. GD

I dissagree Eric - every car is unique, and just because you did not have a problem with any of your pumps, does not mean that someone else couldn't. Also - who's to say that all of yours were running optimally? If you never replaced a fuel pump with anything other than a stock one, then how do you know that it wouldn't have improved the performance or response in some way? Mine seems to be handling the stock fuel pump alright, but on sharp left turns (like REALLY sharp - into a driveway doing 30 MPH sharp) it leans out, so I think my 20 year old pump is no longer producing the volume that it once was. I will be switching to something like the carter 4070 just to see what difference it makes if anything. It surely can't hurt to try, and seemingly the Weber people agree that 2 psi is not optimal. It could also be a case that Eric is basically correct - our engines are at the smaller end of the 32/36's spectrum, and the larger volume and higher pressure may only really be needed for bigger engines.... it's hard to say without more Subaru specific test data to go on. GD

Yep - classic symptoms. Obviously your disty is working - cause it's still running. Best thing you can do is have your disty rebushed. Cost for me locally is about $35, and you'll have a basically new disty if you go that route. JY model is going to cost you the same, and who knows how good the shaft is on it.... These guys did an excelent job for me (they are local for me): http://www.philbingroup.com A rebuilt unit from CCR is about ~$145 ask them for details on exact price tho..... I don't personally see the point if you can have yours rebuilt for $35... On the JY one: Q: How do I tell if it will work? A: You can't Q: Do I need a gun to install it? A: Yes - absolutely. GD

I was simply saying that the 3.9 front diff from an XT6 FT4WD tranny *might* be a closer fit than anything else if you were to attempt to convert an RX tranny to 3.9 - not that he should use the XT6 tranny. RX tranny is 25 spline, as are all turbo EA82 trannys. EA81 axles are 23 spline.... except some have been found that are 25 spline, but it is not clear what these came from, as the general consensus seems to be that the EA81T cars had 23 spline just like regular EA81's... :confused: No one knows definatively what car a person would look for to find 25 spline EA81 axles.... in fact it may be that they never existed beyond a custom build from some axle shop. The only set I know of (or indeed, that anyone knows of from what I can tell), is a set that Mudrat79 pulled from an EA81 Turbo coupe. But other turbo coupes of the same vintage have been examined (with matching numbers on their tranny, so they were factory), and found to not be 25 spline. Very weird, and it's probably best to just have a set made. GD

And Matt - what are you doing confusing this poor man? YOU have an MPFI turbo motor - COMPLETELY different - code 11 for you is supposedly a "no reference pulse" from the ignition system. Move along son, your holding up the damn line..... Pay no attention to RallyRoo upstairs ^ he be smokin his shirt or something GD

Man - the carter weber is an under-powered peice of junk - swap over to the Hitachi and it's manifold - I'm sure if you post in the marketplace someone has one lying around..... then later you will have the ability to go with the DGEV, and you will scratch no longer. Try some carb cleaner on that linkage, and the throttle plate - may be sticky or something. GD

Sure - anything is possible - prohibitivley expensive I should think. The bolt arangement of the front diff is different than that of the rear diff, and so the ring and pinion gears will not fit from a 3.9 rear end... now swapping in the 3.9 from another tranny..... may be possible, but would require splitting the tranny case, and John (Mudrat79) tells me this requires several special tools which are not cheap.... and even then it may not work as the full time 4WD tranny is bound to be considerably different than a regular D/R - being that it has a center diff and all..... didn't the XT6 have a full time 4WD manual with a 3.9 diff? Maybe one frorm that would fit. Are you intending to off-road this car? If so forget the RX tranny. The Lo range is only 1.2:1 as opposed to the normal Lo range in a D/R tranny of 1.45:1 - couple that with it's 3.7 diff, and it makes for a useless off-road tranny (no crawl ratio at all to speak of). To get the 5 lug, you would have to swap out to an EA82 style suspension (has it's own problems such as alignment [you ever get yours right Miles?], and some custom fabrication - welding the control arm mounts to the cross-member, etc...), and then swap over to the XT6 suspension which is yet another modification on top of the EA82 swap, and I'm sure would have it's own pile of problems with the EA81 car... never heard of anyone doing it, but it would be cool.... just a lot of work to get it on, and to get it right (ie - proper alignment). GD

That's what I've always heard - summitracing has a carter pump for $60 that is rated at like 6 psi or something - with a regulator, you can get it to exactly 4 if you wanted..... BTW - our stock pumps are rated at 2 psi. GD

You have an '80 - so you have the older solid rotors. On the 83+ cars they had vented rotors, and they are thicker, with different calipers..... therin lies your problem. The later Gen 1 cars had a similar disc brake setup as yours - non vented rotors. My guess is they will fit any car with the non-vented rotors with no problems. GD

Code 11 acording to my book is a model designation for a 5 speed manual trans, 2WD, non california car..... not a trouble code. In fact all codes starting with the number 1 or the number 7 are model designations apparently. A lot of the code listings I have seen online don't have the model codes, and I'm not sure why. I do belive that your problem is the carburetor, and not any of the sensors or the computer system. Do you have the carter weber single barrel or the hitachi carb? The carter is widely regarded as a real peice of junk - the Hitachi actually isn't bad, but does need rebuilding after 100k miles or so... best bet if you have a hitachi is to install a Weber 32/36 DGEV carb, and toss the Hitachi cmopletely. GD

John (mudrat79) has done it more than once. Was talking to him about it the other day..... GD

It can be done (and has been many times) - but we'll need more info on the car it's going in - carbed, SPFI, MPFI, Turbo? GD

Yeah - but isn't it easier to just have cvaxles.com build em for you? Then you wouldn't have to worry about em for 100k miles or so.... and when you did, they could build you more for $55 each. Not to bad considering... The EA82 swap would be intersting, but what does it buy you? Probably easier for you to get JY axles and parts eh Miles? GD

Miles - Turbo EA81 axles are the same as 4WD EA81 axles, and the DOJ swap apparently doesn't work - unless you are a rebuilder shop and can mix/match parts till you get it right. I'm sure that's what cvaxles.com does - they have so many parts lying around that they can make it work one way or another. GD

Axles are going to be your real problem - you need 25 spline EA81 axles.... and those seem to exist, but no one knows what they came from, and they are EXTREMEMLY hard to find. http://www.cvaxles.com can build them for you tho, and I think they will take any your non-25 spline ones as core..... but if they don't, your initial set is going to cost about $109 per axle - Jerry was having a set made because he couldn't find any.... You also need the 3.7 rear end, as your hatch is a 3.9. GD

It's got to be in the tach mechanism itself - replace it with one from a JY - the cluster is really easy to remove.... GD

Bad DOJ on your axle. Had that happen to me - thought the car was going to fall apart - very scary. GD

Yes - you will have to put your axles into his hubs. You are correct that his axles will not work, but your terminology is a little skewed. The axle does not "fit into" the control arm - it goes through the steering knuckle (which is attached to the "control arm" with a ball joint.), and is splined to the hub, which is bolted to the brake disc. The control arm itself has zilch to do with the axle, and should fit any EA82 car. GD