GeneralDisorder

Eh? Your tach is electric, as all Subaru tachs are to my knowledge. GD

I think you can do what you are asking - but your question is phased a bit weird - there's no way to "compare" the splines on the wheel end and the splines on the tranny end, as the wheel end has a shaft that fits through the hub, and it's smooth. What I'm trying to say is the axle has a male and a female end - you can't make any comparison with them - apples and oranges. Your axles should go into his old hubs tho - I don't see why not. GD

XT6 is completely different - my bet would be no. GD

Yeah - the large hose is easy to kink, and if you don't get it ALL the way on the tank tube, it will have too sharp of a bend in it. It takes some real muscle to get the tube all the way on - done it several times when replacing / moving tanks. The flapper thing in the fill tube can be seen, and operated with your finger - it's right near the opening, and if you can insert the nozzle all the way, then it's working..... GD

Don't think so - the legacy VLSD's still have a sticker..... seen pictures of it. GD

Well - that may be true in your area LW - up here Subaru's don't sit in the yard for 5 years - more like 1 or 2 months, then they are crushed..... so a lot of our junkyard parts are pretty good. Just the other day my friend needed a rear wheel bearing race replaced, and those are pressed into the drum. So we went to the yard, and we scored a basically brand new drum, with brand new bearings and the grease in it was even still purple - couldn't have been very old. No one had touched it because it was "rusty" - the REASON it was rusty tho is cause the drum was a replacement, and hadn't been painted prior to installation. And tranny fluid is 90w gear oil - it's a little tanish in color. It's not supposed to be clear, and it's definately not supposed to be black. It really should look like brand new motor oil, since there's no carbon to contaminate it in the tranny. GD

$600? No way - expensive for a 1600, and I second Junkie - a GL should not have a 1600 in '84 - something fishy there. And yes - CV's are a common problem - but they usually click or vibrate at high speed - doesn't sound like the noise your describing. GD

Hhhmmm - well first thing is buy SOA wheel bearings just to make sure your getting quality stuff - maybe your local parts place has cheap bearings or something - after the third time I wouldn't mess around is all. Replace the races too. Next they must be packed properly.... do you know how to pack bearings? If not have someone show you, or get a bearing packing tool. And lastly is to make sure you get the proper torque on them - not sure what that is for your car, but any manual should tell you... As for CV's, try http://www.cvaxles.com - they seem to have a good reputation among board members here. GD

Not without a lot of cutting - too much angle on the sides. GD

Hmmm - interesting - so will hatch ones bolt in? Must confess I've never looked that close to compare the mounting points.... GD

No difference - next question. GD

A heavier flywheel will give you more torque - because, as Skip mentioned breifly, of angular momentum. The more wheight you have spinning like that, the more resistant to changes in speed it is, and thus for torque you want heavy. Depending on the weight of the car, and what your running for tires ect, will depend on how much your flywheel should weigh. It's a balancing act - you want good accereration, but you also want hard launches, and for that your need weight. If a lighter flywheel was always better - why have one at all? See my point? GD

First thing - the ECM light is controlled by the feedback carb computer, and you'll need to check the codes comming off that. Likely it's a bad O2 sensor, or something along those lines. The computer has no way to check the cat, so even if it were plugged, it couldn't possibly know. It's under the dash on the drivers side - there should be a gold or black box under the steering column with a flashing light..... your chiltons manual should be able to tell you the codes. The carter carbs are known the be real peices of ****e, so putting on a 32/36 DGEV Weber would be adviseble - they aren't real cheap new, so you might find a used one and rebuild it. Also - if you do, since you have the carter and not the Hitachi, you'll have to switch to the Hitachi manifold, as the Weber will not fit on your current manifold. Actually - these engines hold heat alright - my Brat had almost NO coolant in it for probably a good 50 miles, and the gauge got right to the bottom of the red - never hurt the thing tho. It's the EA82's and especially the EA82T's that don't hold the heat. Check your cooling system - there's only a few parts to it, and basically if changing the thermostat and a flush doesn't clear it up, then it's time for a new radiator. The Front end damage can be pulled straight again by a frame shop - probably not a cheap repair tho - could get another whole car for the cost of that operation alone. The body panels up there can be replaced with any panel from an EA81 car - the hood and fenders are all the same for every model. GD

Didn't say I was going with them.... said they were cheaper. I personally have plenty of light from my stock quad sealed beams (yep - yellow and all....) - on both my wagon and my Brat. I don't know why anyone would need to upgrade them unless you were driving where there's lots of animals, or you have bad eyesight....... or there's something wrong with your wireing. GD

Any VW performance shop can point you to those - expect to pay some serious $$ for them. When I looked, just the enclosures were about $54 each. Of course you need four of those. Check into the new sealed beams - there are quite a few out that are just as bright. They have the ultra white ones and everything - cheaper than going HID. GD

You couldn't order them with a stick - Subaru wanted a degree of control over their still experimental turbo engine. They didn't want a bunch of people blowing them up and comming back to the dealership all pissed off if the engine turned out to be a crap pile. It was probably partially due to the lack of a 5 speed 4WD tranny for the EA81's as well as possible durrability issues with the early trannies. The Auto suck so much power right off the top that it's not so much of an issue, and Subaru gets to decide what RPM's you shift at.... etc. At any rate, it wasn't an option. If it were, I'm sure MANY more would have been ordered. Now there may have been some vintage swaps done after the fact, or even in 85 when the 5 speed D/R came out. Someone probably realized that their 84 could take a 5 speed, and threw it in - I'll bet that happened more than once in fact. But never from the factory.... GD

Yeah - there's an exhaust heat sheild, and a riser "stove pipe" tube that delivers warm air from around the exhaust pipe into the air box. After the engine heats up, this is bypassed to get cooler, denser air via a thermovacuum operated flap on the intake of the air box. GD

Mudrat79 has done it - you should ask him for all the particulars. The steering linkage and the engine cross member have to be modified to work around the EA81. I think he mentioned that all the Gen 1 Brat's had 4.11 rear diffs, or something like that.... maybe I'm smoking my shirt on that one tho. GD

The 1800 is the same design - a LOT of parts will even swap between them. The 1800 offers more displacement, and there's a lot more aftermarket for them (as little aftermarket as there is for the 1800, there is even less for the 1600). And it's a direct swap - basically nothing to do but drop it in, and hook it up. Don't get me wrong, the 1600 is a fine engine, but EA81's are dirt cheap, and if you can get a little more power (you WERE talking about mods....), then there's not much reason not to. You can probably break even if the thing runs good - people with Gen 1's are now and then looking for good running EA71's because it's a bit of work to swap a Gen 1 over to the EA81. (unless you happen to have an '81 Brat lying around for parts). GD

Drop in an EA81 - easy to do - especially on an 84. Try to get a hydualic lifter engine, and have a cam ground - deck the heads - put on a Weber, etc. Sell the 1600. GD

vacuum leak - that's what I would be looking for. GD

Hehe - Military Issue - if you look at the can you should be able to find the manufacturer, or at least get me an NSN number. I think the best miltary issue "spray" I've ever run across was an OD green can of "wasp and hornet killer" I swear this stuff was leathal to any form of life we could find. Probably would kill you too, but it will just take a few years... We have been issued some really nasty bug repellant too - very greasy, and don't smell nice.... didn't work either, which sorta pissed us off. GD

Flo - all EA81T's were auto's. GD

I doubt it - take the solenoid apart and clean the contacts. Starters are at the top of the food chain - there's nothing that can toast one except maybe using it too long (heat), over voltage, or gear wear with the flywheel. I would take one of your used ones apart, and have a cleaning session with it - and maybe repace the brushes in the motor while I'm in there. GD

Yeah - what Tim said - the "e" is for electric (roughly), and the "a" is for aqua (water). They are the type of choke. HOWEVER - Redline appears to be rebuilding or reusing castings of the DGAV and putting on the electric choke. My BRAND NEW Weber from the Redline kit K730 has "DGAV" stamped right on the side of the casting.... it is not a water choke model. So really the whole naming convention can be thrown out the window as it means basically nothing now. When your searching on ebay it's quite likely that a DGEV could be listed as a DGAV since that's what is stamped on it.... also any of them could be converted at any time by buying the proper choke kit from redline - so really you are looking for ANY of those, just as long as it has the electric choke you'll be fine (unless you want the water or the manual...). Your looking for a 32/36 Weber DGEV/DGAV/DGV. GD