GeneralDisorder

I was simply saying that the 3.9 front diff from an XT6 FT4WD tranny *might* be a closer fit than anything else if you were to attempt to convert an RX tranny to 3.9 - not that he should use the XT6 tranny. RX tranny is 25 spline, as are all turbo EA82 trannys. EA81 axles are 23 spline.... except some have been found that are 25 spline, but it is not clear what these came from, as the general consensus seems to be that the EA81T cars had 23 spline just like regular EA81's... :confused: No one knows definatively what car a person would look for to find 25 spline EA81 axles.... in fact it may be that they never existed beyond a custom build from some axle shop. The only set I know of (or indeed, that anyone knows of from what I can tell), is a set that Mudrat79 pulled from an EA81 Turbo coupe. But other turbo coupes of the same vintage have been examined (with matching numbers on their tranny, so they were factory), and found to not be 25 spline. Very weird, and it's probably best to just have a set made. GD

And Matt - what are you doing confusing this poor man? YOU have an MPFI turbo motor - COMPLETELY different - code 11 for you is supposedly a "no reference pulse" from the ignition system. Move along son, your holding up the damn line..... Pay no attention to RallyRoo upstairs ^ he be smokin his shirt or something GD

Man - the carter weber is an under-powered peice of junk - swap over to the Hitachi and it's manifold - I'm sure if you post in the marketplace someone has one lying around..... then later you will have the ability to go with the DGEV, and you will scratch no longer. Try some carb cleaner on that linkage, and the throttle plate - may be sticky or something. GD

Sure - anything is possible - prohibitivley expensive I should think. The bolt arangement of the front diff is different than that of the rear diff, and so the ring and pinion gears will not fit from a 3.9 rear end... now swapping in the 3.9 from another tranny..... may be possible, but would require splitting the tranny case, and John (Mudrat79) tells me this requires several special tools which are not cheap.... and even then it may not work as the full time 4WD tranny is bound to be considerably different than a regular D/R - being that it has a center diff and all..... didn't the XT6 have a full time 4WD manual with a 3.9 diff? Maybe one frorm that would fit. Are you intending to off-road this car? If so forget the RX tranny. The Lo range is only 1.2:1 as opposed to the normal Lo range in a D/R tranny of 1.45:1 - couple that with it's 3.7 diff, and it makes for a useless off-road tranny (no crawl ratio at all to speak of). To get the 5 lug, you would have to swap out to an EA82 style suspension (has it's own problems such as alignment [you ever get yours right Miles?], and some custom fabrication - welding the control arm mounts to the cross-member, etc...), and then swap over to the XT6 suspension which is yet another modification on top of the EA82 swap, and I'm sure would have it's own pile of problems with the EA81 car... never heard of anyone doing it, but it would be cool.... just a lot of work to get it on, and to get it right (ie - proper alignment). GD

That's what I've always heard - summitracing has a carter pump for $60 that is rated at like 6 psi or something - with a regulator, you can get it to exactly 4 if you wanted..... BTW - our stock pumps are rated at 2 psi. GD

You have an '80 - so you have the older solid rotors. On the 83+ cars they had vented rotors, and they are thicker, with different calipers..... therin lies your problem. The later Gen 1 cars had a similar disc brake setup as yours - non vented rotors. My guess is they will fit any car with the non-vented rotors with no problems. GD

Code 11 acording to my book is a model designation for a 5 speed manual trans, 2WD, non california car..... not a trouble code. In fact all codes starting with the number 1 or the number 7 are model designations apparently. A lot of the code listings I have seen online don't have the model codes, and I'm not sure why. I do belive that your problem is the carburetor, and not any of the sensors or the computer system. Do you have the carter weber single barrel or the hitachi carb? The carter is widely regarded as a real peice of junk - the Hitachi actually isn't bad, but does need rebuilding after 100k miles or so... best bet if you have a hitachi is to install a Weber 32/36 DGEV carb, and toss the Hitachi cmopletely. GD

John (mudrat79) has done it more than once. Was talking to him about it the other day..... GD

It can be done (and has been many times) - but we'll need more info on the car it's going in - carbed, SPFI, MPFI, Turbo? GD

Yeah - but isn't it easier to just have cvaxles.com build em for you? Then you wouldn't have to worry about em for 100k miles or so.... and when you did, they could build you more for $55 each. Not to bad considering... The EA82 swap would be intersting, but what does it buy you? Probably easier for you to get JY axles and parts eh Miles? GD

Miles - Turbo EA81 axles are the same as 4WD EA81 axles, and the DOJ swap apparently doesn't work - unless you are a rebuilder shop and can mix/match parts till you get it right. I'm sure that's what cvaxles.com does - they have so many parts lying around that they can make it work one way or another. GD

Axles are going to be your real problem - you need 25 spline EA81 axles.... and those seem to exist, but no one knows what they came from, and they are EXTREMEMLY hard to find. http://www.cvaxles.com can build them for you tho, and I think they will take any your non-25 spline ones as core..... but if they don't, your initial set is going to cost about $109 per axle - Jerry was having a set made because he couldn't find any.... You also need the 3.7 rear end, as your hatch is a 3.9. GD

It's got to be in the tach mechanism itself - replace it with one from a JY - the cluster is really easy to remove.... GD

Bad DOJ on your axle. Had that happen to me - thought the car was going to fall apart - very scary. GD

Yes - you will have to put your axles into his hubs. You are correct that his axles will not work, but your terminology is a little skewed. The axle does not "fit into" the control arm - it goes through the steering knuckle (which is attached to the "control arm" with a ball joint.), and is splined to the hub, which is bolted to the brake disc. The control arm itself has zilch to do with the axle, and should fit any EA82 car. GD

Eh? Your tach is electric, as all Subaru tachs are to my knowledge. GD

I think you can do what you are asking - but your question is phased a bit weird - there's no way to "compare" the splines on the wheel end and the splines on the tranny end, as the wheel end has a shaft that fits through the hub, and it's smooth. What I'm trying to say is the axle has a male and a female end - you can't make any comparison with them - apples and oranges. Your axles should go into his old hubs tho - I don't see why not. GD

XT6 is completely different - my bet would be no. GD

Yeah - the large hose is easy to kink, and if you don't get it ALL the way on the tank tube, it will have too sharp of a bend in it. It takes some real muscle to get the tube all the way on - done it several times when replacing / moving tanks. The flapper thing in the fill tube can be seen, and operated with your finger - it's right near the opening, and if you can insert the nozzle all the way, then it's working..... GD

Don't think so - the legacy VLSD's still have a sticker..... seen pictures of it. GD

Well - that may be true in your area LW - up here Subaru's don't sit in the yard for 5 years - more like 1 or 2 months, then they are crushed..... so a lot of our junkyard parts are pretty good. Just the other day my friend needed a rear wheel bearing race replaced, and those are pressed into the drum. So we went to the yard, and we scored a basically brand new drum, with brand new bearings and the grease in it was even still purple - couldn't have been very old. No one had touched it because it was "rusty" - the REASON it was rusty tho is cause the drum was a replacement, and hadn't been painted prior to installation. And tranny fluid is 90w gear oil - it's a little tanish in color. It's not supposed to be clear, and it's definately not supposed to be black. It really should look like brand new motor oil, since there's no carbon to contaminate it in the tranny. GD

$600? No way - expensive for a 1600, and I second Junkie - a GL should not have a 1600 in '84 - something fishy there. And yes - CV's are a common problem - but they usually click or vibrate at high speed - doesn't sound like the noise your describing. GD

Hhhmmm - well first thing is buy SOA wheel bearings just to make sure your getting quality stuff - maybe your local parts place has cheap bearings or something - after the third time I wouldn't mess around is all. Replace the races too. Next they must be packed properly.... do you know how to pack bearings? If not have someone show you, or get a bearing packing tool. And lastly is to make sure you get the proper torque on them - not sure what that is for your car, but any manual should tell you... As for CV's, try http://www.cvaxles.com - they seem to have a good reputation among board members here. GD

Not without a lot of cutting - too much angle on the sides. GD

Hmmm - interesting - so will hatch ones bolt in? Must confess I've never looked that close to compare the mounting points.... GD