GeneralDisorder

Must say - lookin good. Broke anything with all that torque yet? Heh GD

Ah - so this was a factory tranny then? Not something that was built and installed later? GD

Nope - the EJ series have a different bellhousing. How did you come to aquire this tranny? GD

Lets find someone with a big yard, and run our own rally - screw this silly class setup. Cars should be grouped based on engine size, and suspension type/hieght. It is simply not logical to make any type of class designations based on the sheet metal of the vehicle. An EA81 wagon has exactly the same drivetrain as a Brat - can I chop the back off my wagon and call it a truck then? It would even look like a brat then..... same goes for a hatch. We don't need the SCCA's money - you can sign a release form before you race. I bet we can do it for a lot less than $30 per person too. GD

Only two things that cause white smoke - burning coolant, and condensation. There might be a slow leak in the headgasket that isn't noticeable after it warms up, or there could be a small crack in one of the heads. Like I said tho - smell the exhaust to see if it's coolant..... GD

Could you put me in touch with the individuals who built that transmission of yours? Would really be interested in buying a kit with neccesary parts to do this conversion to a US trans..... GD

Ok - well one thing you'll be happy about - no need to buy a code reader as these cars don't use them. You read the codes by connecting two connectors together under the dash (or under the hood in some cases I think), and reading the codes from the long and short flashes of the light on the ECU. Do a search on EA82 ECU codes on the board and I'm sure you'll find which connectors to use - or someone else here (like Skip) can help with that as I don't know EA82's. The 02 Sensor is located in the exhaust manifold - it's right where the two pipes from the heads meet - at the "Y" in the pipe. Check it's operation via the ECU light first tho before pulling it. They can (and almost always are) a REAL pain to get out. Not because they are hard to get to, but because they are usually frozen solid with rust, and the alternating hot / cold of the exhaust seems to cause real problems that way. If you do replace it you will most likely need a special 02 sensor wrench or socket. And remember to use a liberal amount of anti-seize on the threads so it can come out if it ever needs replacing again. As for the LED in the ECU being out - I've never seen one go out. LED's are rated for insanely high hours of use. If it is out - best to just ask on the board if anyone has another ECU.... unless you are good with electronics, then you might be able to solder one in... I wouldn't personally bother - there's plenty of ECU's out there to be had. I think Skip meant that the 02 sensor had "run it's course" - not the ECU LED. If you see no light, then the 02 sensor is most likely bad. Replace it, and then check for a light. GD

Hey - looks AWESOME. We need to talk - about how you got 4.11 gears into that EA82 transmission - can I email you directly? This is all but unknown territory here in the states, but I would sure love to have those higer gears on my off-roader.... GD

A lot of people seem to like interstate batteries.... What I do is pick up used interstate's at the JY when I see one - $15 (+$5 core charge) for any battery - no matter what brand it is.... that's just me tho. I can usually tell when the battery is getting low - and I have multiple cars, so at the worst I'll just have to move one from another rig if it were to die unexpectedly... GD

Most likely it's just water vapor as Meeky pointed out. Take a whif of the exhaust - if it smells sweet, then it could be coolant, but if it's stoping after reaching temp, and you don't have an overheating problem, then I would say it's just normal water vapor. GD

No kidding - we down here in P town have around an inch of solid sleet / freezing rain sitting on top of 3 inches of snow. The ice on the snow is so thick, it can support my 200 lbs without breaking through to the snow beneath.... GD

That's great - the Hitachi's aren't really all that bad - mine did great before I switched to a weber. The Weber does better - but my friend has my old hitachi, and gets over 30 on his 2WD... I think the EA81's were 73 HP BTW. GD

Just one thing - make sure that your lights are at least "kind of" aligned properly - you don't want to blind anyone. You can check them by parking in front of a white garage door on a flat, level driveway, or by backing into a garage and closing the door. They should both be about even, and from 4 feet, slightly lower off the ground than your headlights are... GD

man - sure are a lot of people with EA82 PS stuff... wish there were more EA81 guys around..... oh well. GD

I wouldn't worry about the dash - just tell em it was replaced. They will know to look at the firewall instead. GD

One thing you should check right off is the ECU codes - are you pulling any codes from the computer? I have had amongst other things bad 02 sensors cause very similar things to what you are describing. Also check what other people are saying - vac leaks is high on the list - and fuel filters. I would probably replace those on general principle.... GD

I asked first Junkie - hands off..... Course - it's a STD model - so they would be for a 1600 GD

So what are you gonna do with it's dual hitachi's? GD

It's an electric turbo.... is that a factory part for the Nissan? 40 HP seems...... dubious at best - but if it's factory?!?! More information is needed.... GD

I would think (altough - who knows - maybe I'm wrong) that the CC wiring harness is not seperate UNLESS the CC was installed by the dealer. If it's factory, then it's likely part of the cars harness. So if you could find a car with dealer CC, then you would have your seperate harness - otherwise, it would be integrated into the main harness. At least my EA81 with CC is part of the main harness..... GD

If your lines are freezing - drain some coolant from the radiator and add pure antifreeze instead of a mix to bring up the antifreeze level. Then run the thing, and don't drive it - the engine bay should get warm enough to thaw them out. If not - get out the blowdryer..... GD

Don't think it's frozen - the gurgling sound is air in the lines - mine aren't really hot right now either - both of mine are running pretty cold. I would loosen the top radiator supports, and slip a bit of cardboard between the frame and the radiator covering half to 2/3's of the radiator. That way it won't get so much airflow. You could go to a higher temp thermostat..... but I doubt you want to change that in the cold.... My wagon gets to about 1/4 on the temp scale - which is tolerable, and the Brat hardly even registers - but since the cab is so small, it eventually is tollerable too. Last night it was about 18 degrees here, and I drove teh wagon in 3rd gear at 55 MPH to keep the R's up for heat..... GD

I think Turbone had some the same or similar listed for sale here last month.... GD

Yeah - it's rather expensive to do the spray on bed liner as Qman points out - apparently because of the shape of the bed, it's difficult to use their normal "drop down" masking equipment - so it's very tedious to do the back of the cab, and all those curved parts... GD

Ya know - I have a haynes manual - and I don't often find myself using it anymore - mostly I just take stuff apart if it's broken, and I always seem to find the problem eventually.... The absolute BEST investment I ever made was to buy another Subaru - that way when I have to fix one, I have a backup, and can take my time - ask questions on the board, etc GD