GeneralDisorder

It's not the pressure that matters - it's the volume. You can have 1000 psi of pressure - won't matter if your volume is too low - the engine will use it all up before the pump can refill the bowl. If you want to test volume - run it into a gallon jug till it's full and time it..... GD

Well - your should check prices on the BFG's and the Swampers - they aren't really much different. BFG's are expensive in comparison to most AT's, and the Swampers are really a pretty good deal. GD

My Weber does this too - the increased fuel demand on the 20 year old pump I think is too much. Your's might be bad enough to cause the hitachi problems too. I've suspected the fuel pump on mine for a while, since it's the only component of the system that hasn't been replaced with new parts. Brand new Weber, brand new filters (air and fuel), and I still have it bog down on hard left turns. I say get a new one - or a universal one with around 3 or 4 psi. If you ever go to a Weber you'll want it anyway I think. GD

It matters little exactly where it is - it's under the car - you'll find it - just trace the fuel supply lines frorm the tank..... GD

Fuel pump is located near the gas tank, under the car. It only runs when the engine is running, or cranking...... GD

The gaskets are availible from JC whitney for $55 (last time I looked). Or find a JY car with a cracked or broken windshield, and smash it the rest of the way out - snag the good gasket...... GD

I think Boz is talking EA81, and Meeky said RX - so that's EA82T - both are COMPLETELY different than yours. One thing on the EA81 2WD disty's - they are a different design - made by NipponDenso, and they fail more quickly than the Hitachi's that were used on the 4WD. This failure is due to the shaft bushings. It's not that the bushings of the distys wear at different rates - its that the design of the Hitachi can handle MUCH more slop in the shaft before replacement is needed. Any perceptibale slop in the ND disty will cause dramatic reduction in power, and tach "jump". I've seen Hitachi's that were functioning seemingly perfect with nearly 1/16" of slop in the shaft. GD

Seriously - driving is all about Physics. Take a physics class at your local community college - you will learn all you need. Then go to a track (or dirt feild), and practice with what you have learned. It's really not that hard to figure out. It's all about coeficients of friction (static AND rolling), weight transfer (brakes, acceleration, steering), and gearing / rpms. You decide what you want to practice, and after each run, think about what the car did right and what it did wrong, and how you can change that using what you know about physics. Same goes for learning to drive a stick - if you know the principle of operation behind a clutch, and a transmission, it makes driving one a lot easier. For me it was a 10 minute ordeal, since I already knew how the system operates internally. GD

My opinion is you need to get it tighter. Grab a big section of pipe, and a breaker bar - reef that sucker down. Stand on it - jump on it - drive backwards with the bar wedged on the ground - do whatever it takes - your not putting enough "luv" on it. I have done quite a few axles, and never had one loosen. I've broken a few breaker bars tho. I'm not a small person, and I do strip things out now and then - but if I tighten it - no way it's comming loose. GD

I am 6' 2" and 200 lbs - I have no problem at all in my 85. Plenty of head room. Not great on the leg room, but it's fine - no problem to drive, and not uncomfortable for long periods. GD

northguy - there ALL from redline (new kits anyway) - that's the manufacturer.... Seriously tho - the kits suck - not worth their cost in my opinion. Get a used one and rebuild it - or buy one that's already been rebuilt and grab the air filter and adaptor plate seperate. Only thing you get with the kit is really crappy instructions that are next to useless. Also - I scanned them, and they are availible on my web site if you want em anyway..... GD

Is the heat sheild in place around the cat? Otherwise - I would try another Y pipe - that sounds bad to me.... GD

Check you U-joints in the rear drive shaft first off - probably not the problem, but an easy thing to check... Next check the fuild level in t Otherwise - the front diff has nothing to do with the 4WD shift mechanism, so that's out. I would have to say if you can't find the source of the problem outside of the trans, it's probably time for another tranny. You *could* tear into it - my guess is it's a bearing failure on the 4WD auxilery shaft, or the transfer case portion of the trans.... Next check the fuild level in tranny - if it's low then you most likely have already done serious damage by the sound (smell?) in this case..... Check the rear diff out too - crawl under the car when you get that smell, and try to isolate where the smell is comming from.... GD

The 2WD to 4WD disty swap is for EA81's - and even for them it has come into question. Skip (I believe) looked it up in the FSM, and the 4WD is actually a better advance curve. But I think on your EA82 they are the same - I don't think there's a difference at all, since the 2WD and 4WD have the same brand of disty.... GD

I emailed him for some specifics a week or so ago cause I'm planning on doing this myself - haven't heard anything from him yet..... he does still lurk around on this board now and then..... GD

Yes - you can just reseal the pump - ask your parts stores for the oil pump seals..... if done right, this can often fix the problem. GD

There's supposed to be a gap?!? DOH! GD

My guess on the EA82 is yes - but without actually trying it, I don't know for sure. You may have to turn it around backwards - or use the PS from an XT4.... GD

Bad right axle - clicking while turning left means a bad right CV joint. The clunking is probably the same thing - the joint is a bit loose, and the change from acceleration, to no acceleration causes the clunking noise. Time to change out your axle. GD

ooooooh! I remember someone specifiying what that was a long time ago - control module for something - I bet skip knows! My guess is power mirror control unit.... probably wrong tho. unplug it and see what stops working? GD

Maybe you toasted the tranny input shaft or something - stripped it out? I don't know - have you pulled it apart to see? GD

Subaru calls their six an H6. And there may be an H6 forester eventually - who knows - the H6 isn't turbocharged tho, and the 2.5T in the 2004 is more powerful anyway.... GD

There's numerous places that sell them online - or any place that sells Redline equipment can order one. Just do some searches on google. Should be between $35 and $40 or so. GD

Shipping shouldn't be over $30 via UPS. GD

Too bad - if that color scheme was done well like you said, it might be pretty cool. I would drive it! But that's just me - I'm twisted that way. GD