GeneralDisorder

As well as the pedal cluster - you'll have to remove the pedal box you have, and replace it with a pedal box from a manual... And you'll need the rear diff too - since the manual's are 3.9, and your auto is 3.7... GD

Get another guage cluster from the JY, and put it in - I think your problem is with the guage itself, and replacing just that guage is very difficult as it requires removal of the needle, and proper reinstallation - I if would take a lot of fiddling, and probably still not be calibrated properly. Replacing the whole cluster is really pretty easy - cost is about $15 at the JY. GD

Ah - absolutely true. Although the original post is extremely old - somehow it was brought back frorm the dead - and then strangely enough it got WAY off topic.... my fault really. Sorry about that. GD

I would pull the engine back out - check to see what's up - sounds like something got chewed up. If you don't see anything - you might check the governor on the side of the trans - sometimes those get their gears chewed up. If your don't find anything in either of those places, pull down the pan, and see if there's gear teeth in it (yikes!). GD

Touring wagons aren't real common - but they aren't terribly rare here - remember - this is Oregon - we have soobs everywhere.... I've seen quite a number of them - both GL's, Loyale's and even some legacy's GD

We are discussing carbureted EA81's here - the feedback carb is a rare exception to this conversation - and computer controlled FI applies to none of these engines (with the exception of the EA81T - which is a completely different beast). Also - Octane is NOT a combustion suppressent - it is a measure of the resistance to detonation - or how hard it is to get it to burn. Take diesel for instance - VERY high octane rating - but much lower BTU's per gallon than gasoline. No - lower octane fuels burn hotter and more completely due to their higher BTU rating. And running water into the engine to clean it is quite normal - many shops use this technique - it won't hydrolock if you keep the R's up. My shop teacher reccomended this approach to our class after a demostration of cleaning parts with a steam cleaner.... Apparently anything that doesn't aggree with what YOU believe must be wrong - your very stubborn, and I see that I will not convince you with educated answers. Your rebuttles are mis-informed, and badly worded. If this were a debate, and there were a panel of judges, I would surely have won already. I'm am sorry - but I cannot continue this discussion further. GD

Nothing like that - it's just that a lot of board members seem to have bad luck with rebuilt CV's from local places. The lifetime warrantee is nice - but having to USE it five times as often is annoying to say the least. http://www.cvaxles.com has a good reputation on this board for making a high quality product that will lilkely last as long as the originals did.... GD

Yeah, yeah - I'm not THAT knowledgable - I know my way around internal combustion is all... (did you know? there IS such a thing as *external* combustion.... ) GD

Now your talking some sense - let me clarify some issues for you: No - because different additives have different side effects - just like takeing medications - some have the same desired effect on you, but different undesireable side effects.... but this is not the real issue anyway. Not even sure how that one came up? Well - your talking about two completely different things - one of which is a linear scale (temperature of water), and the other is actually a combination of two different linear scales averaged together. There are two different octane rating systems, or approaches if you like. One is called MON or Motor Octane Number. To give you some more info on that I just quote: The other rating system is called RON or Research Octane Number: So as you can see these are really VERY different systems, and as such, you really have no idea what your getting at the pump since the rating there is an average of these two numbers. For any given fuel, there are MANY (infinite actually) ways to achieve any one specific "pump" octane rating. I quote again: Now that said - back in the day there was no such thing as RON - the pump gave you exactly what the MON was - and with the use of tetraethyl lead (basically a liquid form of lead that is very stable), you have much higher "pump" values. This accounts for the FSM claiming 90.... after the ban of lead completely in '86, RON was introduced to help better guage the knock resistance of other additives besides just lead - thus the new "pump" calculation of (R+M)/2.... not a linear scale at all. Now I really am DONE BTW - if I haven't succeded in showing my point with all that, then apparently I'm not a very good teacher, and I'll just shut up. Seriously tho - do the research - read the books - you'll come to the same conclusions. GD

Different engine - doubtfull without heavy modifications. Suzuki's and Geo's have little in common with the Justy, other than being 3 cylinder econemy cars GD

So why should I believe you over someone with a degree who is also more articulate? That's just ignorance - if you belive what you just said right there, then there is no point for me to continue discussing this further - therefore - you win! I will discuss this matter with you no further. Please - by all means continue to believe whatever you want - makes little difference to me. GD

I had my 84 wagon to 110 when it was 2WD..... just me in it. That was on the perfectly flat and level. GD

A compression test will tell you a lot IF the test says the engine is good.... if there's a problem, you have to move to a wet/dry compression test to really see if the problem is severe.. The bulge in the roof is a "touring" version - nothing more. Also - look for a GL or GL-10. They look the same as a Loyale - but they have more features... GD

Nope - she just ran out of juice. You have a 2500 lb car with 85 HP...... that and you ran out of gearing. 5 grand is on the downward slope of the power curve, so you had less HP, and your HP balanced out your vehicles rolling resistance, and wind resistance - no more speed for you! GD

Actually - one way to do it is to run straight water into the intake..... no seriously! If you take the hose, and run a constant stream of water down the carb or throttle body, it will basically steam clean the inside of the cylinders. I doubt seriously that any kind of additive would work as well as the steam cleaning approach. The techron stuff Chevron puts in their gas is supposed to help.... although I have not done any research on what that stuff is, or what it does. Might be worth looking into. When doing the water thing - rev the engine up to a couple grand, and run the water through till it slows down to about a grand. Don't kill it! You want to do this with a warm engine that has been fully heated up Afterwards - change the oil and filter so no water can remain in the oil to cause problems later... GD

You *can* do headgaskets in the car - much easier out tho. There's not much room, and Subaru even had a special low profile socket just for removing heads.... You can another guy can pull the engine - lay a large beam (4x4 post about 6 feet long works well) across the engine bay, and chain it to the engine - when everything is disconnected, you and two friends should be able to guide it out of there. Installation is reverse. Myself and one friend have lifted EA81's out of cars with nothing more than out bare hands - did it just this afternoon in fact.... Definately easier to drop in a new engine (good used one maybe), but probably not cheaper.... GD

Don't know about serials #'s..... You can tell the hydro lifter engines - they have a gold sticker on the valve cover that says "do not adjust valve lash" or something like that. If you see remnants of a sticker.... that's probably the one. Other than that - I don't know about carbs - the carbs were specific to the type of vehicle - generally the single barrel carter / weber (peice of crap BTW) came on 2WD's - but not all 2WD's. Some Auto's too I think. Mostly on the 2WD 5 speeds I think.... not all of those either tho - mine had a hitachi.... GD

No - I'm sure you have all the maintenance down just fine. Carbon buildup is a fact of life - it's going to happen no matter what. You can help the situation by changing the oil regularly - thereby prolonging the life of the rings, and valve seals who's job it is to keep oil out of the cylinders. Also - running a *lower* octane fuel will burn hotter, and leave less buildup than running a higher octane fuel - the lower the octane, the hotter, and more completely it will burn. Running a high octane fuel in an engine not designed for it, will only result in faster buildup of carbon, and shorter engine life due to all the crap that isn't being burnt and getting into the valves and eating up the seals. Not to mention the unburnt blow-by that gets by the rings and into the oil, and thins it out, and fills up the filter with disolved carbon - making regular oil changes that much more neccesary. Carbon scores the cylinder walls, and eats the rings up...... basically it's just bad stuff in general. And I'm not saying I know more about Subaru's than anyone here... just relating what I've learned in school, and what I know about internal combustion engine theory of operation. Trying to educate the readers of the board - nothing more. Please - ask away with your questions - I'll be glad to answer anything I can... GD

Do a search - there was a post a LONG time ago from someone who did just that - might have been Adam, or Subarubrat, or Hassey - one of the guys with a list of mods longer than my arm I think...... could be wrong tho. GD

Wow - good chance if it overheated that badly, there's probably a blown headgasket involved - maybe cracked the heads too.... I would pull the engine and start inspecting it.... GD

No - a mechanical guage requires an oil line to be run..... GD

Have you compared the difference in mileage with the difference in price per gallon? You may find a discrepency in your logic there.... One thing that CAN cause you to need higher octane - carbon buildup in the cylinders can increase your comression, and require you to run higher octane to counteract the resulting ping... the increased mileage in this case has nothing to do with engine design, and everything to do with an old engine, and bad maintenance.... GD

Replace with a mechanical one - bit of plumbing that has to be done, but the mechanical guages are much more accurate, and dependable. GD

Yeah - the "big valve" heads are the heads for the hydraulic lifter version of the EA81. These came in 83 1/2 and 84 Automatics, and ALL 85 to 89 EA81's. And yes - as for making any major engine mods - you'll want the hydro lifters, as they require no adjustment - adjustment is a pain on a stock engine - certifiable nightmare on a modded one with different cam etc..... The EA81T is basically the same as the EA82T - just different valve train - using the EA81 as the core motor. It has a lower compression (7.7:1 instead of 8.7:1), and it originally came with an oil cooled and oil lubricated turbo. There was a recall to upgrade them to water cooled / oil lubricated turbo's.... they are comparitively rare (only built in 83 and 84), so parts (especially heads) are pretty hard to find now.... they make 95 HP stock compared to the 73 HP of the normal EA81. My personal preference is for the regular EA81 - they can be turned into quite a beast with a cam grind, head deck, and EA71 pistons (yeilding something around 9.5:1 compression), and a weber with a free flowing exhaust - looking at around 125 HP, or more with not much work at all really. The EA81T can run higher boost, and an intercooler for more HP, although there's not been enough of these modded to know much about what they can do. One thing to say - they are not much good off-road because it's hard to keep the turbo spooled. No torque on the low end..... GD

As for the lifters - try some of the additives, and thicker oil - if that doesn't work a new oil pump usually solves it - sometimes just a reseal will work too... http://www.cvaxles.com has been reccomended by a lot of board members - quality rebuilds, and they aren't terribly expensive... ($55 I believe) Fuel tank vapor line - just leave it open to the air... the tank has to vent afterall.... Use the fitting off the hitachi on the weber for the return line... A clear filter - yes - I am running one too. Just plug off that vapor seperator line - not needed. You can remove the whole evaporative emmisions system if you like - canisters and hard lines - all of it. The valve cover breathers should be run into that little nipple on the weber's air filter... GD