GeneralDisorder

I'm not saying the 38 won't work - just that a properly tuned 32/36 ought to be just as good. Perhaps better for gas mileage since you can run on just the one smaller barrel. Your torque curve on the 38 might be a bit different. I was also mostly refering to snotrocket's comment about dual 40's..... WAY too big. A single 38 is still reasonable..... just a lot more work for diminishing returns I think. But hey - if you find one cheap why not? I still say that on a stock EA81 even with an opened up exhaust, the 32/36 is already more than you can use. Remember - this carb is an UPGRADE for many V6's. On our little engines, it should be more than you need. Also - as for the psi thing - I am only refering to what I have read - I haven't done any modification to my car as far as fuel pumps go, so we'll see when I do. Dante - since you have the dual carb heads - you might make use of the 38 - I'm not sure. GD

I would check your radiator hoses - don't forget the pipeing on the intake manifold, and the heater hoses too. Might be good to replace them..... GD

"Posi" is a detroit locker - not limited slip. Limited Slip approzimates the locking effect, but will act differently. The detroit lockers are primarily for drag racing, as they take a lot of wheel spin to engage, and once engaged, the wheels are locked solid. A limited slip is as locked as it's going to be all the time, but with enough force you can overcome the lock - thus they still will slip - it's just "limited" GD

Well - just a tip for you when you get the weber - just pull the whole ECU out completely - this will extenquish the light forever. And you don't need the ECU with the weber. GD

The problem with going with anything bigger than the 32/36 is that the heads just don't flow that much. The JDM race engines, and the dual carb motors had dual port heads, and without buying them from the aircraft guys, you really can't get the flow. All you'll do with huge carbs like that is blow your mileage to sh!t without getting anything from them. The carb is not the bottleneck - your cam and your heads are the bottleneck. The VW community have access to aftermarket heads that really flow - thus they can use the 40's with not problems. The Weber 32/36 is good up to 125 HP or more on the EA81 with a regular hitachi manifold..... Ask Qman - he will tell you. GD

Not sure how much - but I know that a dual carb engine car will have more power than a weber 32/36 car. Have a look at someone's dual carb manifold. There's several people on the board that have them - ask around. GD

GD

You can remove the engine pitching stopper to get the tranny to "hang down" farther, and thus a better angle for removal. The tranny is not light - probably 100 - 125 lbs I would say. I can lift one and carry it around by myself for a little ways, but not far as they are quite awkward. With two people it's a breeze to carry one around. The input shaft of the tranny doesn't go inside the engine - just into the clutch plate - sicks out from the bellhousing a couple inches. This shouldn't hang you up tho. Technique..... brute force and ignorance works well for me. You will need to lift up a bit on the back of the tranny while sliding it rearward because they are heavy and will bind up on the bolts and the pins if you don't take the weght off them. DO NOT be under the thing when you get it free - they are heavy, and awkward and could easily snuff you out if you happenend to be under it when it fell out. Also - if you can't get the tranny out - it might be easier to pull the engine. Often times this can be just as easy as pulling the tranny. GD

He asked for "some opinions" on the "best carb". Hehe. The Weber is nice - use the seach function as skip sugested. Technically the Dual Hitachi's flow better, but no one that I know of has found a consistent source for them or the manifold they require.... too bad. GD

Yep - bump the starter - generally nerveracking, but it does almost always work. GD

JDM Dual Hitachi's GD

Yeah - grab a flywheel from the JY - you can get em off pretty easy without completely removing the engine - just pull it forward to get to the flywheel. Then you can either use it if it looks good, or get it turned..... my last JY flywheel was good enough to use, and it cost me $11 + tax. GD

NAPA ia alright in my book - but I bet I can confuse your computer system.... NAPA has tried to tell me that I have one front wheel bearing on each side..... NO - there's an inner and an outer on each side... While I'm sure that you have perfectly reasonable intentions to give out all the right parts.... your computer system will fail you occasionally. I got my last PCV from a place called Discount Import Parts here local to me - got the right one. In fact - they have never given me the wrong part yet - but I'm sure it would happen given time. I think it was $2.99 or something... GD

Yeah - your gonna have to prove that with pics, cause no one here is going to belive you otherwise. Not saying it's not true, just that it doesn't seem to be within the realm of possiblity on a stock US model. GD

Ah - yes - Qman has a good point - your offset is going to dictate how much you'll be trimming - the larger the negative offset and the width of the rim, the more you'll have to trim... GD

Yeah - it's on the intake manifold as I recall - it screws in, and with the hose attached it is pretty stealthy - just looks like a nut on a vacuum fitting or something - if you pull the hose off tho, then you'll see it.... GD

Yep - that's the usual method. There's lots of guys on the board that have done it with EA82T's - a few with EA81T's. Really the engines are almost identical with respect to ignition and fuel systems, so much of what they have done will apply I'm sure. GD

A considerable amount - also having the suspension adjusted up like that makes it stiffer, and you don't get as much travel. You CAN mount them tho - it just requires a whole lot of trimming. You won't have much left for fenders really. You consider a lift? It would accomidate 26's without any trimming if you go that route. GD

Well - water cooled, and oil lubricated I think would be the more correct terminology - but I do agree that the oil does in fact carry heat away from the turbo as it's lubricating - and the EA81T's do have an auxilery oil cooler, so I agree in principle with what your saying Mick. I just simplified it a bit 83 1/2 - I'll file that away in my memory banks. No wonder I see so many more 84 Turbo's than 83's..... GD

Sounds like you may have had a weak Presure Plate - if your installing all the parts you like you say I wouldn't forsee you haveing any trouble. You might replace the clutch cable while your at it - they are pretty cheap ($20 or less), and do wear out eventually. Also - you should go ahead and replace the rear main seal on the engine - they are cheap too, and easy to reaplce while your in there. Just remove the flywheel and its right there. Remember to use a little silicone on the outside of the seal, and some grease or assembly lube on the inside of the seal. And use a dab of licktite on each of the flywheel bolts as they are tapped directly into the oil passage of the crank - this will seal them properly. Clutch life is highly dependant on driving style, and conditions. 147k is an exceptionally long life I would say - most clutches last me 100k or less. (but then I drive like a damn maniac...). They can last up to 200k or maybe more depending on the driver. Your son may just be hard on em.... GD

I'm sure you *could* probably build something. But what happens when you go fording? Whatever is in there is going to get very damp I suspect... and if you get stuck in a big puddle and you need something you stored in it..... still - you might be able to get it watertight... (still can't open it while it's under water tho). Seems like a lot of work for a very small gain - your wagon has a big cargo area, and I've never filled mine up even with passengers and all my gear. That area is where I'm planning to mount my air pump.... Also - To get something in there that would have the same safety charactersitics of a spare tire is not realistic. The tire - being rubber, has quite a bit of shock absorbing ability, and also is quite string due to the air contained inside it. It's a bit like an air bag when hit by an engine at high speed - it slows down the speed of the engine when it hits it.... I think that would be very difficult to replicate, and probably a waste of time. GD

Awsome - yeah - totally fix it up. Actually - you can add an intercooler and a boost controller to get some more performance - several people have done it. Another thing you should be aware of - the turbo itself on the EA81T's was a recall because it was originally oil cooled. These were found to be a fire hazard or something, and were replaced with water cooled turbo's. Your may or may not have the water cooled turbo. If it doesn't no problem because the EA82T turbo works just fine - you simply have to plumb in the water lines for the turbo. I think the EA82 Turbo is also slightly bigger, but will bolt right in apparently. You could easily get it up to 120 HP I would think with an intercooler, and a manual boost controller. Both are pretty cheap upgrades - you just have to find an intercooler, which can be a bit difficult. Look for saab's and mitsubishi starion's and things like that at the JY. GD

Jets could be smaller on the 1600 (I'm not sure - but it stands to reason) - try an 1800 carb, or put a weber on it. GD

Also - you should know - your engine won't bolt up to a D/R tranny without a bell houseing change. There were EA71's with the proper bell housing in later model cars..... I'm not totally sure but you may be able to swap the bell housing off an EA81?? Still - if you going to all that trouble why not just do the EA81? Either way you need that D/R - for the gearing, and for the clutch. The EA81 '83+ clutch is MUCH bigger, and when I had the little clutch in my car it slipped badly with big tires because it was just too small and didn't have enough surface area. Jared had an EA71 in his wagon with D/R and it does just fine off-road... with a 3" lift. I was thinking more about the on-road handling. When I talked to Mudrat who had just driven Jared's car to his shop, he said it was quite gutless with the swampers on it (on the freeway). Going over the pass at high altitude was not fun he said. Like I said - 3" or 4" would be fine - just have to get the D/R tranny in there.... anything higher and your pushing the limits of the 1.6 for tire sizes. 28" would be alright, but a 6" lift can accomidate around a 31..... that's a lot of tire to move with that little engine. GD

Yeah - #1 do a compression test. There's no sense in messing with the ignition systems etc, it you have no (or low) compression in 1 or 2 cylinders. GD