GeneralDisorder

Can be drilled - but will chew up at least one bit in the process - use a lot of oil. That spring steel is tough. GD

There is no H20 line to the weber if you have removed the aqua choke. GD

You'll just havet to experiment - the dash speakers are not of a size that can be obtained aftermarket. Pull them out and look for something that you can "make" work - you'll just have to figure it out like we all have done..... GD

Some of these can be buggers - I've busted 1/2" breaker bars like twigs - don't even think about a ratchet.... GD

It's even the servicable type - nice. GD

What's so bad about the design? I head someone say the cracks between the valves can be closed up with a punch.... besides that they don't even matter unless they are VERY large..... so says subaru anyway. I know I've heard several people on the board use heads with cracks between the valves with no ill effect. I think that it's as stated above that the cracks that really matter cannot be seen. That or is the gasket that blows. GD

Sounds like your cable is about to fail - had that happen to me. First it got a little loose and I tightened it - then it broke in half. Is your cable running over or under the steering linkage - it's supposed to run under. Over will cause premature wear and failure. GD

If your rings are shot - or your bottem end is sloppy, then it's a good idea. Basically if you have to split the engine case and it has more than 150k on it, or has been neglected and is more worn than normal, then you might as well do a complete rebuild. That's not to say you just blindly replace everything - there's lots of measurements involved with micrometers and calipers and run-out guages etc. You replace what is not within spec, and then put it back together - usually with a new oil pump, and water pump cause it would suck to have either one of those ruin all the work you just did. GD

Sure - but you have to figure the cost of the manifold - the 32/36 bolts to our existing manifolds..... making it a much cheaper option since they come with the adaptor plate (if you buy the kit). It's also a well documented upgrade, and time is money. GD

Pardon me - got my terminology mixed up. I stand corrected then. I also say if your going for hard core off-road - Welding is the cheapest, and most surefire way of getting your traction. Some people run the LSD's - others say they aren't as good. But everyone agrees that welding works off-road. That's where my money is. GD

I'm not saying the 38 won't work - just that a properly tuned 32/36 ought to be just as good. Perhaps better for gas mileage since you can run on just the one smaller barrel. Your torque curve on the 38 might be a bit different. I was also mostly refering to snotrocket's comment about dual 40's..... WAY too big. A single 38 is still reasonable..... just a lot more work for diminishing returns I think. But hey - if you find one cheap why not? I still say that on a stock EA81 even with an opened up exhaust, the 32/36 is already more than you can use. Remember - this carb is an UPGRADE for many V6's. On our little engines, it should be more than you need. Also - as for the psi thing - I am only refering to what I have read - I haven't done any modification to my car as far as fuel pumps go, so we'll see when I do. Dante - since you have the dual carb heads - you might make use of the 38 - I'm not sure. GD

I would check your radiator hoses - don't forget the pipeing on the intake manifold, and the heater hoses too. Might be good to replace them..... GD

"Posi" is a detroit locker - not limited slip. Limited Slip approzimates the locking effect, but will act differently. The detroit lockers are primarily for drag racing, as they take a lot of wheel spin to engage, and once engaged, the wheels are locked solid. A limited slip is as locked as it's going to be all the time, but with enough force you can overcome the lock - thus they still will slip - it's just "limited" GD

Well - just a tip for you when you get the weber - just pull the whole ECU out completely - this will extenquish the light forever. And you don't need the ECU with the weber. GD

The problem with going with anything bigger than the 32/36 is that the heads just don't flow that much. The JDM race engines, and the dual carb motors had dual port heads, and without buying them from the aircraft guys, you really can't get the flow. All you'll do with huge carbs like that is blow your mileage to sh!t without getting anything from them. The carb is not the bottleneck - your cam and your heads are the bottleneck. The VW community have access to aftermarket heads that really flow - thus they can use the 40's with not problems. The Weber 32/36 is good up to 125 HP or more on the EA81 with a regular hitachi manifold..... Ask Qman - he will tell you. GD

Not sure how much - but I know that a dual carb engine car will have more power than a weber 32/36 car. Have a look at someone's dual carb manifold. There's several people on the board that have them - ask around. GD

GD

You can remove the engine pitching stopper to get the tranny to "hang down" farther, and thus a better angle for removal. The tranny is not light - probably 100 - 125 lbs I would say. I can lift one and carry it around by myself for a little ways, but not far as they are quite awkward. With two people it's a breeze to carry one around. The input shaft of the tranny doesn't go inside the engine - just into the clutch plate - sicks out from the bellhousing a couple inches. This shouldn't hang you up tho. Technique..... brute force and ignorance works well for me. You will need to lift up a bit on the back of the tranny while sliding it rearward because they are heavy and will bind up on the bolts and the pins if you don't take the weght off them. DO NOT be under the thing when you get it free - they are heavy, and awkward and could easily snuff you out if you happenend to be under it when it fell out. Also - if you can't get the tranny out - it might be easier to pull the engine. Often times this can be just as easy as pulling the tranny. GD

He asked for "some opinions" on the "best carb". Hehe. The Weber is nice - use the seach function as skip sugested. Technically the Dual Hitachi's flow better, but no one that I know of has found a consistent source for them or the manifold they require.... too bad. GD

Yep - bump the starter - generally nerveracking, but it does almost always work. GD

JDM Dual Hitachi's GD

Yeah - grab a flywheel from the JY - you can get em off pretty easy without completely removing the engine - just pull it forward to get to the flywheel. Then you can either use it if it looks good, or get it turned..... my last JY flywheel was good enough to use, and it cost me $11 + tax. GD

NAPA ia alright in my book - but I bet I can confuse your computer system.... NAPA has tried to tell me that I have one front wheel bearing on each side..... NO - there's an inner and an outer on each side... While I'm sure that you have perfectly reasonable intentions to give out all the right parts.... your computer system will fail you occasionally. I got my last PCV from a place called Discount Import Parts here local to me - got the right one. In fact - they have never given me the wrong part yet - but I'm sure it would happen given time. I think it was $2.99 or something... GD

Yeah - your gonna have to prove that with pics, cause no one here is going to belive you otherwise. Not saying it's not true, just that it doesn't seem to be within the realm of possiblity on a stock US model. GD

Ah - yes - Qman has a good point - your offset is going to dictate how much you'll be trimming - the larger the negative offset and the width of the rim, the more you'll have to trim... GD