GeneralDisorder

No kidding - we down here in P town have around an inch of solid sleet / freezing rain sitting on top of 3 inches of snow. The ice on the snow is so thick, it can support my 200 lbs without breaking through to the snow beneath.... GD

That's great - the Hitachi's aren't really all that bad - mine did great before I switched to a weber. The Weber does better - but my friend has my old hitachi, and gets over 30 on his 2WD... I think the EA81's were 73 HP BTW. GD

Just one thing - make sure that your lights are at least "kind of" aligned properly - you don't want to blind anyone. You can check them by parking in front of a white garage door on a flat, level driveway, or by backing into a garage and closing the door. They should both be about even, and from 4 feet, slightly lower off the ground than your headlights are... GD

man - sure are a lot of people with EA82 PS stuff... wish there were more EA81 guys around..... oh well. GD

I wouldn't worry about the dash - just tell em it was replaced. They will know to look at the firewall instead. GD

One thing you should check right off is the ECU codes - are you pulling any codes from the computer? I have had amongst other things bad 02 sensors cause very similar things to what you are describing. Also check what other people are saying - vac leaks is high on the list - and fuel filters. I would probably replace those on general principle.... GD

I asked first Junkie - hands off..... Course - it's a STD model - so they would be for a 1600 GD

So what are you gonna do with it's dual hitachi's? GD

It's an electric turbo.... is that a factory part for the Nissan? 40 HP seems...... dubious at best - but if it's factory?!?! More information is needed.... GD

I would think (altough - who knows - maybe I'm wrong) that the CC wiring harness is not seperate UNLESS the CC was installed by the dealer. If it's factory, then it's likely part of the cars harness. So if you could find a car with dealer CC, then you would have your seperate harness - otherwise, it would be integrated into the main harness. At least my EA81 with CC is part of the main harness..... GD

If your lines are freezing - drain some coolant from the radiator and add pure antifreeze instead of a mix to bring up the antifreeze level. Then run the thing, and don't drive it - the engine bay should get warm enough to thaw them out. If not - get out the blowdryer..... GD

Don't think it's frozen - the gurgling sound is air in the lines - mine aren't really hot right now either - both of mine are running pretty cold. I would loosen the top radiator supports, and slip a bit of cardboard between the frame and the radiator covering half to 2/3's of the radiator. That way it won't get so much airflow. You could go to a higher temp thermostat..... but I doubt you want to change that in the cold.... My wagon gets to about 1/4 on the temp scale - which is tolerable, and the Brat hardly even registers - but since the cab is so small, it eventually is tollerable too. Last night it was about 18 degrees here, and I drove teh wagon in 3rd gear at 55 MPH to keep the R's up for heat..... GD

I think Turbone had some the same or similar listed for sale here last month.... GD

Yeah - it's rather expensive to do the spray on bed liner as Qman points out - apparently because of the shape of the bed, it's difficult to use their normal "drop down" masking equipment - so it's very tedious to do the back of the cab, and all those curved parts... GD

Ya know - I have a haynes manual - and I don't often find myself using it anymore - mostly I just take stuff apart if it's broken, and I always seem to find the problem eventually.... The absolute BEST investment I ever made was to buy another Subaru - that way when I have to fix one, I have a backup, and can take my time - ask questions on the board, etc GD

As well as the pedal cluster - you'll have to remove the pedal box you have, and replace it with a pedal box from a manual... And you'll need the rear diff too - since the manual's are 3.9, and your auto is 3.7... GD

Get another guage cluster from the JY, and put it in - I think your problem is with the guage itself, and replacing just that guage is very difficult as it requires removal of the needle, and proper reinstallation - I if would take a lot of fiddling, and probably still not be calibrated properly. Replacing the whole cluster is really pretty easy - cost is about $15 at the JY. GD

Ah - absolutely true. Although the original post is extremely old - somehow it was brought back frorm the dead - and then strangely enough it got WAY off topic.... my fault really. Sorry about that. GD

I would pull the engine back out - check to see what's up - sounds like something got chewed up. If you don't see anything - you might check the governor on the side of the trans - sometimes those get their gears chewed up. If your don't find anything in either of those places, pull down the pan, and see if there's gear teeth in it (yikes!). GD

Touring wagons aren't real common - but they aren't terribly rare here - remember - this is Oregon - we have soobs everywhere.... I've seen quite a number of them - both GL's, Loyale's and even some legacy's GD

We are discussing carbureted EA81's here - the feedback carb is a rare exception to this conversation - and computer controlled FI applies to none of these engines (with the exception of the EA81T - which is a completely different beast). Also - Octane is NOT a combustion suppressent - it is a measure of the resistance to detonation - or how hard it is to get it to burn. Take diesel for instance - VERY high octane rating - but much lower BTU's per gallon than gasoline. No - lower octane fuels burn hotter and more completely due to their higher BTU rating. And running water into the engine to clean it is quite normal - many shops use this technique - it won't hydrolock if you keep the R's up. My shop teacher reccomended this approach to our class after a demostration of cleaning parts with a steam cleaner.... Apparently anything that doesn't aggree with what YOU believe must be wrong - your very stubborn, and I see that I will not convince you with educated answers. Your rebuttles are mis-informed, and badly worded. If this were a debate, and there were a panel of judges, I would surely have won already. I'm am sorry - but I cannot continue this discussion further. GD

Nothing like that - it's just that a lot of board members seem to have bad luck with rebuilt CV's from local places. The lifetime warrantee is nice - but having to USE it five times as often is annoying to say the least. http://www.cvaxles.com has a good reputation on this board for making a high quality product that will lilkely last as long as the originals did.... GD

Yeah, yeah - I'm not THAT knowledgable - I know my way around internal combustion is all... (did you know? there IS such a thing as *external* combustion.... ) GD

Now your talking some sense - let me clarify some issues for you: No - because different additives have different side effects - just like takeing medications - some have the same desired effect on you, but different undesireable side effects.... but this is not the real issue anyway. Not even sure how that one came up? Well - your talking about two completely different things - one of which is a linear scale (temperature of water), and the other is actually a combination of two different linear scales averaged together. There are two different octane rating systems, or approaches if you like. One is called MON or Motor Octane Number. To give you some more info on that I just quote: The other rating system is called RON or Research Octane Number: So as you can see these are really VERY different systems, and as such, you really have no idea what your getting at the pump since the rating there is an average of these two numbers. For any given fuel, there are MANY (infinite actually) ways to achieve any one specific "pump" octane rating. I quote again: Now that said - back in the day there was no such thing as RON - the pump gave you exactly what the MON was - and with the use of tetraethyl lead (basically a liquid form of lead that is very stable), you have much higher "pump" values. This accounts for the FSM claiming 90.... after the ban of lead completely in '86, RON was introduced to help better guage the knock resistance of other additives besides just lead - thus the new "pump" calculation of (R+M)/2.... not a linear scale at all. Now I really am DONE BTW - if I haven't succeded in showing my point with all that, then apparently I'm not a very good teacher, and I'll just shut up. Seriously tho - do the research - read the books - you'll come to the same conclusions. GD

Different engine - doubtfull without heavy modifications. Suzuki's and Geo's have little in common with the Justy, other than being 3 cylinder econemy cars GD