GeneralDisorder

You don't want the pushrod turbo - it's rare, and difficult to find parts for. Not to mention it's only 95 HP. Turbo long blocks are different - not in the way you describe tho - they have different pistons - different heads, and even the crank and rod bearings are different (wider I believe). They also sport a 7.7:1 compression (EA82T, and EA81T), unlike the NA counterparts. I do not believe the crank and rods are forged. GD

Wow - that's gonna be a lot of work. The Gen 1's are small - putting an EA82T in them I doubt is possible - due to the size of the engine. An EA82 when transplanted into a Gen 2 car, comes within 1/2" of the frame rails - in a Gen 1, you would certainly have to make modifications to the frame to get one in. You could probably fit an EJ20T into one - in fact I've seen pics of a Gen 1 Brat with an EJ transplant - it was in AUS tho. Figure on having some major work on your hands - not just with the drivetrain - but with the suspension as well. The Gen 1 cars don't handle great, so you would want to transplant a newer suspension under it - if nothing else, just for the 5 lug wheels, as I'm sure you don't want 4 lugs on it. Axles are going to have to be custom made - but can be done. Good luck. GD

Actually - as much as he probably want's a weber - the number one thing he should do is get the gearing right - that means either an 81 or 82 D/R - or a 5 speed D/R from an EA82 (he still won't use 5th much - but at least there's 4th which is marginally lower, and 3rd for hills on the freeway... It's seriously gutless with the 85 4 speed I bet. Next up is a lift kit - if he hasn't done it already... After that's done - time for a Weber - more low-end grunt that way. Just remove the muffler completely - it's not too loud, and sounds great. Finish it off with a welded diff, or LSD if it's a street ride, and some custom bumpers etc - whatever he likes really. On another note - I may be needing some Gen 1 Brat parts sometime soon. Did you see my post about the Gen 1 wagon I got? Possibly there could be some tradeing involved of parts from it for Gen 1 Brat stuff.....??!? A lot of it's parts are going to the Brat I'm getting, but there's lots of wagon stuff left to be had. It's got a good little automatic tranny that I don't think I'll be needing - doors, glass, etc..... interested? GD

Downfalls - well, that depends on a couple things. Mine are 215/75r15's - so 28's basically. This results in a 27.6% difference in speedo reading - so the speedo is WAY slow..... now mind you my speedo was calibrated for 175's at the factory because mine was a 2WD, so a car with a 185 speedo (an original 4WD car...) would not experience the same amount of difference.... still significant tho - over 20% for sure. I got lucky, and by pure chance happened to install an 82 style D/R 4 speed - it has lower gearing for 3rd and 4th, and with the big tires is just about right - so my power is alright - especially because I'm running straight pipes, and a weber. If you had an 83+ 4 speed, the power would be bad - 3rd and 4th (especially 4th) are just too high for tires that big - the RPM's are much to low for any power going down the freeway - expect to be in 3rd all the time.... A good amount of fender cutting and banging will be in order for large tires like that - but I'm sure you already know that.... If what you are working on is an 82 or older 4WD - absolutely you will have to upgrade to the larger 225mm clutch from the 83+ 4WD's - the 200mm clutch will slip badly with big tires.... you will also need the flywheel from the 83+ if you do this.... GD

I'm with Miles - sounds valveish to me. GD

The're 6 lug - drilled out to 4 lug. Two holes line up fine - the other two you have to puch out with a good sized drill bit. I beveled the holes a bit with a dremel for the lug nut to seat better. I've had no problems with em at all. GD

Also - I had my PS idler pulley lose it's bearing, and didn't get it put back for about 1,000 miles - no worse off for it. I just took the belt off. Put it back recently and it's just fine - no change at all. So if you pump does go while on a road trip - I don't think you'll be stranded - if you must, get a shorter belt and put it on - bypassing the PS pump. On my 84 I have the bennifit of a seperate PS belt so this was no problem for me.... Also - it wasn't hard to steer at all without the PS - basically like my Brat that doesn't have it in the first place - I was surprised that it was still so easy - definately noticeably harder - but nothing to worry about if it should fail. GD

Actually - it's probably gonna get parted for the Gen 1 Brat I'm working on..... GD

Yes - some of the early 80's console's are slanted downward - but it's only some of them - I think the 2WD's?? At any rate they are very difficult to find, and when they are found, people tend to keep em - here's a pic of the one that's currently in my Brat: http://usmb.net/gallery/GeneralDisorders-Subaru-Pictures/IMG_0508 Here's the adaptor that Ed speaks of - they are availible for about $15 from any stereo store: http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo71/84_wagon_deck GD

Found it local - 78 2WD Automatic DL - with A/C even! Guy said it didn't run - so I drove it home Clean title - good tags - new battery - tires have 5k on em, with Les Shcwabb papers in the glove box.... Had to jam a rock in the choke - I think the electric choke is not working. After that it idled - like a 3 legged dog - but it does idle. With the autmatic it feels like it has about 2 HP - but climbs right up to 80 (maybe further - I didn't want to try...) on the freeway... http://usmb.net/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album143 GD

The guages are known to be fairly innacurate. Basically if it's somewhere in-between the bottom, and the top, and it increases when your off-idle - then your fine. Good engines will peg the meter when cold, and settle down a bit after warm-up. GD

For one thing - the wildcat's come in several different tread patterns - the Wildcat EXT is the Mud Terrain. The ones he has here are All Terrains. Also - a lot of LS tires (I think the Wildcat is one) are made by Cooper. The EXT's are good MT's - not sure about the all terrains - I like a more aggresive look personally, so haven't had experience with them. Lookin good - you should have got the lift first tho - cause afterwards you will want bigger tires GD

Well - if you don't want to settle for just "ok", then welded it is! You can disengage it pretty easily - 3/16" pin punch, and pull one rear drive shaft. Once you have done it a few times, you'll get very fast at it - less than 2 minutes. With the lift there's no need to jack it up - just go under, pop out the pins, and take that shaft off. Really quite easy. Putting it back on takes a little longer, but not bad. Saddly - I don't know any places close to go. Scappoose is as good as anything...... you can always go with the stock height - no need to have it lifted to have some fun with it. GD

20w-50 Castrol GTX. Higher mileage engines do well with the thicker oil - if it's under 100k, then 10w-30 is alright. I personally like to keep my oil pressure up. And no - I don't live in Maimi. It's was 15 degrees here last week, and both my soobs started right up - one even has a crappy, dieing battery. 20w-50 will be fine. GD

When they make a lot of noise like that - they will last a LONG time before complete failure generally. I had an 83 turbo wagon with a pump like that - guy told me it was like that the whole 2 years he owned it..... GD

I think the EJ series had both types - but yes, at least some of the EJ's are VLSD's - great for on-road - but useless for off-road as I understand it. GD

There's no need to make them exact - in fact the Aussies often enlarge them to better protect the boots while off-roading. GD

Or some tin foil - but don't do that if you like driving without flames. On the other hand - Skip sets his passenger seat on fire for heat - so I suppose it's all relative..... GD

Dude! You gonna have John lift it for you? Portland eh? So are you gonna go play with the Hatch Patrol with me? I'm in West Linn..... Maybe we could find some local mud? Would love to have someone around here to play with. If your intention is crazy off-roading - welding the rear is the way to go. Cheaper too. LSD's are nice for a daily driver tho. GD

The Turbo and 4WD clutches are the same as I recall. It's the XT6 clutch and flywheel that is stiffer.... Should be exactly the same as what you have. GD

Friend of mine bought a car on eBay, and had it transported from wisconsin to oregon - cost was less than $700. That was last year. And it wasn't a tiny car either - about the size of a soob - 98 Audi A6 Quatro. You just have to look around - search for the best price. GD

He speaks the truth - down here there's a place - I've talked to them about it. They can rebuild just about anything. The price is on the order of $25 per lock. Probably better if you remove it for em. GD

Yes - it can pass emmisions. I know several People in WA state that have passed with Weber's. GD

No 88 GL-10 auto's do not have LSD's - at least not stock. You want to look for a GL-10 Full Time 4WD Turbo 5 speed. These and the RX have the LSD. GD

Oh yeah - my 15x6's stick out a good 2 - 3" past my fenders. Not a problem here in OR - no one cares (even tho I think it's technically illegal....). GD