GeneralDisorder

Yep - that's a cool peice. Dealer option. Don't see them everyday. Should fit any Gen 1 Brat I think. GD

Ok - from EA81 land, I would like you to stock: EA81 oil pump seal kit and gaskets EA81 Head gaskets EA81 oil pan gaskets EA81 valve cover gaskets EA81 intake manifold gaskets EA81 OEM PCV valves EA81 OEM oil filters EA81 4WD clutch parts EA81 4WD 4 speed shifter linkage bushings (the ones on the bottom of the shifter, and where it ataches to the shift rod of the tranny EA81 redline weber carb adaptors, and linkage kits A source for *cheap* EA81 wheel bearings, ball joints, and tie rod ends would be nice too..... I'll probably think of more, but that's a start. GD

rguyver did this too - both on his hatch, and on the Brat with the XT6 stuff..... try a search for posts by him, I'm sure you will turn it up. As I recall Miles had a small issue with alignment.... not sure if that had anything to do with it or not. GD

Try some of the online decal sites. Won't be "stock" but you can get some pretty cool looking "4x4" or "4 Wheel Drive" and what not for cheap aftermarket style.... GD

What does the noise sound like? Grinding - squeeling - etc? GD

It may still click and just have bad contacts in it, or it may not click and actually be frozen up, so my sugestion would be to find the flasher on someone else's car using Skip's technique...... that's of course only if it indeed does not click.... Hope you find it! GD

Yes actaully - Qman showed me that this was acceptable for main seals. A little silicone around the outer edge, and some grease around the inner edge to make it seal good, and keep it from drying out. GD

The shift linkage I was refering to is the one for the nissan transfer case. GD

No - they are different. Gen 1's are shorter. It's not appropriate to ask which is stronger - they are used for different purposes. DOJ's don't have as many degrees of freedom, thus can't be used where CV's can. GD

All junk - all of it. GD

It's not a small task - you need a complete reinforced subframe to hold all the components - custom drivelines - custom steering linkage, and custom shift linkage. I'm probably missing a few things. There's a reason only three have been built so far (that I know of)......... Also - the crawl ratio is good, yes - so good in fact that you end up breaking other components - like diffs and axles.... the added torque is a lot for the stock soob axles and diff to handle. GD

Yeah - some 83's did - it was halfway through 83 that they switched, so you never know. I would swap out to the vented ones, since they did come on 83's, and they are a direct bolt on. GD

Well - that's a sticky question - Gen 1 wheels will fit an 82, but not an 83 *sometimes*. Depends on the wheels. The difference has to do with 82 having solid rotors, and 83 having vented rotors...better measure them carefully. GD

I'm gonna try and plan for this ahead of time - hopefully I can swing it. If nothing else I'll be down Sunday to play a bit and get my bumpers, etc. Not sure I can swing an overnight deal. Money is tight and the friend I want to bring with me probably can't do that either. My bumpers are looking SWEET!!! GD

I don't think it will work on the Brat. I will tell you how to remove the one on your Brat tho - don't even mess with the headless bolts - just remove the four nuts at the rear of the assembly where it bolts to the steering column, and slip the whole unit off. A decent pair of needle nose pliers will do it. I did the last one with a leatherman. Oh - grab the spring loaded wires for the tilt mechanism with some pliers, and pull on them to slip them off the column - makes it much easier to work on. Take the ign. lock to a smith and have it repaired - should cost around $20 - $30. This way your door key remains the same too... GD

Yes - the cat *could* be plugged, but before checking for that, one should check the heat sheild to see if it's loose, or has rocks in it. That "marble" sound can be a lot of things - ping, exhaust leaks, rod knock, piston slap, lifter tick, etc - etc - etc. Each one sounds a bit different to the trained ear, but to the untrained ear they could all be described as "marbles" rolling around or "ticking" or any number of adjectives. The truth is that we are all simply guessing here, and while we may be correct, we are just as likely to be wrong. All the sugestions given are appropriate things to check, but as always "your mileage may vary" GD

Not correcting this, as it is true for a SOA clutch cable and PP, but some aftermarket cable's I have run across have threaded almost all the way back with a brand new PP. It also depends on who made the PP. The interaction between these two parts (cable, and PP) from different manufacturers seems to differ widely sometimes. Generally I have been able to make it work by adding washers and such - a goat rope for sure, but it works. GD

First - what car are we talking about? Mostly on the cable operated cars like we discuss a lot in this section of the forum, you simply need to tighten the clutch cable on the end under the hood. There should be a large nut, and a smaller stop nut on the cable end. If the stop nut was loose, the cable can works it's way loose, and you will have the symptoms you describe. Also - inspect the cable for seperation - the cables start to fray on the end near the clutch pedal under the dash, and also if the cable was run improperly OVER the steering column (it should go under), then the splines on the steering shaft can eat em up and cause them to wear out in that area - it also dries up the grease in the cable, and causes premature failure. I have had a cable break on me after I tightened it because it was loose due to the fraying on the pedal end, not clutch wear. GD

That's a good point skip - it very well may still be a fuel issue even if it revs at idle. I'm thinking the "rattle" in your cat may be a loose heat sheild or rocks stuck in the heat sheild... have seen this before. Also, I have never experienced a "plugged" cat - I'm guessing that can be caused by excess oil burning perhaps? But otherwise, they last a LONG time - the one on my 84 DL has survived for 320k miles, and still passed DEQ...... GD

If your just talking rebuilding, and not customization, then CCR is your best bet: http://www.ccrengines.com/ I hear from many board members that it's cheaper to buy from them, than to do it yourself. This of course doesn't apply if you intend to add custom ground cams, or the like, since they will not do that. They will build an EA81 with EA71 pistons, and a Brat cam that with a Weber should push 100 HP or so, since these are all subaru parts.... They do ALL subaru engines - old and new I think - check out their page. GD

He swapped the wire - not the plug...... GD

I wouldn't bother opening it up - if it chewed up the dipstick, then I would write it off. Especially since the 3AT's aren't all that expensive to replace. You should be able to source a good used one for under $200 I should think. And for that price, taking it apart is not worth the work. Putting the D/R in from the 84 would be a pain - for one thing there isn't an EA82 driveline that will fit - you would have to have a custom driveline made..... the driveline from the 84 *might* fit, but I would imagine it would at least interfere with the carrier bearing on the 86. Also - clutch componetents would have to be mix-matched - not a problem, but certainly a consideration. Also - the shift linkage would be really interesting, and would require some fabrication I think, as the 86 doesn't have the 4WD selector lever mount like the 84..... would be messy. Better to find an 85+ 5 speed D/R. The 4 speed would suck for freeway anyway.... GD

Make sure you inspect the gear in the tranny for wear - ruining another gov would be a waste. I have seen tranny's that will eat a gov a week cause of bad front diff's. GD

Yes - the throttle linkage is on the other side on a DFEV. This shouldn't cause any real problem on an EA81 - EA82 I don't know about, but I think it can be made to work at the worst. As I said - the carb is a mirror image - everything is opposite, but the same rebuild kit works for both - they use the same jets - same adaptor plates, and a very similar (but not the same) air filter. The beutiful thing is that these came stock on early ford's, and can be found MUCH easier at JY's. So for the little added issues like the throttle linkage and the air filter, it's worth it to save a couple hundred $$. GD

On the heat - reduce your coolant ratio - 50/50 is great for -30 temps, but in normal conditions, 30/70 is more appropriate, and will heat better, and cool the engine better as well. GD