GeneralDisorder

That is a GREAT price for a kit if you guys are putting them together! Should be MUCH more accurate, at least for EA81's. And being able to choose manual choke! WOW. I'll definately buy from you next time I need some parts. I'll help you out a bit right now - here's the official Weber installation instructions for people who need them. They are next to useless anyway..... http://www.ultimatevirgin.com/cropperr/ Click on "Weber Installation Instructions". I used my digital camera and took pictures of every page they gave me..... Oh - and the Redline adaptor for EA81's is FINE, but if you find another source for those too, please tell us, as the Redline one doesn't quite line up properly - although it doesn't leak coolant or anything like that. GD

Yep - 81/82 is what you want for off-road and big tires.... 83 and UP (to 89 here in the states) are all taller in 3rd and 4th GD

If / when I do a transfer case mod, I'm planning on getting ahold of some hummer differentials, and axles - shorten the axle, and weld the outer end of a subaru axle to it (just the hub interface part - not the CV joint). Mounting the diffs has to be fabbed in anyway, and the stock gear ratio of a hummer diff is 4.55:1, and you can get 4.88 gears if you want - also air lockers are redily availible. Nissan T-case, Hummer diffs and custom Hummer/Subaru axles.... should be wicked. No more broken diffs and the axles will be considerably more durable (they are faily durable on a Hummer, and with less wieght on a soob, they should be nearly indestructable). I'm sure the cost won't be cheap, but the lower gearing, and the durability should be outstanding. GD

Some questions: 1: will the kit come with either size of air filter depending on your application? (ie - 3" for lifted rigs, and 1-3/4" for non-lifted rigs...) 2: Is the adaptor plate the Redline weber one, or a different brand? 3: Is the linkage kit the one with the throttle cable holder that bolts onto the back two bolts of the carb? 4: Are you peiceing these together from individual packaged parts, or are these the official redline weber kit ?(K730, and K731 I think).... because it's actaully preferable if you peice them together since the kits come with no linkage stuff, and the wrong size air filter for non-lifted rigs..... 5: Can you get a decent price on the Redline snorkel adaptors? That is a GREAT price if you are building up these kits with the individual parts..... still good for the Redline kit, but I'll never buy one of those again.... Someone should sticky this..... GD

Yeah - and I learned that going off-roading when your missing an exhaust stud, and don't have any skid plate is just asking for problems Now I've got the backfires a bit cause I'm sucking air at the head. Looks like I'll be replacing those gaskets and maybe tapping a new stud in there..... GD

The hole is a different size, yes. I'm not sure how much or where you will need to cut - that also depends on if you are going to be using the stock D/R selector with something like Jerry's kit... When I swapped over to a 4 speed D/R from a 5 speed 2WD, I had to enlarge the hole towards the back to fit the D/R shifter shaft.... I also had to bolt in the D/R selector lever mount from a 4WD car, since that is not actually present in a non-D/R car.... GD

No issues with shifting here - 3" Mudrat lift. Wish I could make next weekend, but I went this weekend, and I'm going the weekend after next to Medford, so I can't swing that many in such a short period.... Lincoln locker for me soon too! GD

Brat, Hatch, and Coupe doors are all the same - glass is the only difference. GD

There is a sensor wire that tells the system when to stop the motor from running - it stops in the closed and in the open positions. I would check the connection at the plug, and if that doesn't do it, then maybe the soleniod that is responsible for turning the motor on and off with that signal.... if not there, then the motor itself might have bad contacts in the drive mechanism where the sensor contacts are located.... I've messed with a couple a little, but not in depth... I do have a wireing diagram around here somewhere of how the center lamp is supposed to be wired up from the factory. There's a bunch of wireing in there - mostly to handle that sensor signal, and some step-down resistors for the solenoids.... at least that's as much as I could make out of it from my cursory inspection of the system. GD

The ECVT has issues with the magnaized "dust" used inside it. What happens most of the time is the tranny gets overheated, and the "dust" loses it's magnetic properties - bit by bit, the tranny is rendered useless. An auxilery tranny cooler would be a good idea, but since the tranny uses no fluid, I'm not sure how you would accomplish that - maybe run some sort of coolant through a cooler attached to it.... Subaru still makes ECVT's - just not in any US models.... mostly for the japanese "mini" cars. GD

This is about an hour and a half from WCSS6 - but only about 30 minutes from I-5, so pretty close if you have to go down I-5 anyway.... which I'm guessing most people will. There's some narly mud holes that might swallow a lifted soob whole..... like that one we were perilously close to when we got stuck. It looks to be about 4 feet deep in places by what we guaged with our shovels - once I get my floor herculined, and a snorkel, I'll take it on. No alcohol involved - I was just trying to stay away from the soob-swallowing abyss on either side, and I got a little too close to the bank side, and leaned over against that tree. I just stopped at that point cause I didn't want to rip the whole side of the car off on that tree.... GD

Bugaru and I both live in the Portland area, and found some great off-roading in our own backyard - just 45 minutes away in Scapoose. We found a couple pretty narly trails, and Bugaru got his stock hatch stuck first thing. I had already gone through that part, but had to turn around and come back to the rescue.... a couple kids in a Ford truck showed up and helped, as well as a guy on an ATV out for a day of drinking and shooting :cool: We got the hatch back up on the trail from where it had slid off to the side into a tree with the use of a come-along, and when that got old, we just picked up the back end, and moved it about 5 feet onto the trail! He was able to drive forward out of the hole, and then we got out the shovels and filled it in a bit for him to get back out of the obsticle.... that went fine, but then as I tried to cross back, I spun the wheels a bit too much, and slid into the same tree Mine proved much easier to extract with a come-along, and I was on my way in about 20 minutes. We found a lot more good trails and had some fun removeing fallen trees from the last snow storm. You can check out the carnage inflicted on Bugaru's hatch here: http://web.pdx.edu/~whirl/scapp_vern_021504.html He managed to rip off the front bumper, dent the passenger side rear quarter, and flood the car with muddy water all in one day! All told, we had a great time, and if some other Portland guys want to come along next time..... GD

you have just discovered the reason we run the 81/82 4 speed D/R with big tires - or 4th gear of a 5 speed D/R. The gearing on the 81/82 is such that 4th is actually usable with my 28's..... GD

It's not a straight bolt on - you need to take an EA82 disty, and swap the drive gear from and EA81 disty onto it. That and cut one of the mounting tabs off the side of the EA82 disty for it to fit on the EA81 block. Then you need the entire wireing harness / computer, and everything from the intake manifold up. All the sensors and such. It's been done tho. Cost depends on a lot of factors - some yards are cheap, others are not. A whole donor car would be good. Oh - and the disty needs to be from an 85 or 86 SPFI as I recall.... GD

Beg to differ..... 84 Automatics have hydro lifters, and ALL EA81's made from 85 to 89 have them as well - auto or stick, doesn't matter. 83 and older will all be solid lifters.... ALSO - EA81T's had hydro lifters And yes - they have bigger valves, so these are desireable. GD (not sure if 83 auto's had hydro lifters.... maybe. I can't remember)

Check your computer codes again... GD

It's been on the board several times - he was asking like $2000 for it. Eric went and checked it out - the swampers it's got are nearly done, and it's not really pretty.... I would probably say $1000, to $1200. But that is just my opinion from what has been described here - I haven't seen it in person. GD

84 lifted wagon - yes 85 Brat - no 78 wagon (parts) - no 79 Brat - no GD

Hey Tony - just so you know, the 2WD knuckles are the same as the 4WD ones, so you can swap one in off one of your 2WD's..... Sounds like that one has seen better days if someone beat on it and the bearing wouldn't fit.... NAPA has front wheel bearings for about $12 (2 needed per side).... ask for the "cheaper" brand. Their gold brand ones are like $24 or something... Just to add to the wheel bearing pricing info.... the rear EA81 4WD bearings (1 per side) are EXPENSIVE. Cheapest I've found is $49.99 each from Autozone... GD

Yeah - too bad.... it's got potential, but a few problems too..... and his price seems a bit high..... GD

Plenty of those in the JY's around you I'm sure. Talk to Qman - he may know the latest on what cars are in the yards around the area..... that part isn't desireable, and should be there even on a stripped car. Should be a couple bucks if that.... GD

The AIS is what you are looking at - blocking it off is good if you don't have to pass emissions because they can fail, and dump a whole load of plastic from the "silencer" into your carb.... not cool. Also - I ran through emissions with it both on and off, and I actually got higher readings with it enabled. You can easily disable it by disconecting the valve, and putting a quarter down in the outlet, and threading the pipe back on. It will still *look* stock too - just won't work at all. And it can't fail this way either..... Also - if you have a small exhaust leak somewhere in the Y pipe, the ASV will bring in enough extra air to cause really horrible backfireing.... something I have personally expereinced, and fixed using the quarters (thanks to Qman's advise....). GD

Depends on if you have a feedback carb or not. Removal of just about anything from the feedback system will result in terrible fuel econemy. Non feedback systems are much easier to disable. Power gain? None. But blocking off the AIS system will prevent it from failing and dropping a load of molten plastic into the carb..... Really - the emissions system on an EA81 is very rudimentary, and does not impact power in the slightest. GD

As for how much it would cost to repair here - not much if you got one from a Junk Yard, and installed it yourself (pretty easy). Maybe $20 worth of parts. If you got the stuff new and had a mechanic do it.... hundreds for sure. GD

If you have a decent wire set, this isn't generally a problem on the older soobs. I wouldn't worry about it at all. The voltages that we operate at aren't enough to arc across a decent wire set. GD