GeneralDisorder

Check your oil level - if it's too high, the crank can whip the oil and turn it foamy like that. White color means it's got moisture somehow - change your PCV as sugested, drain a refill - make sure you don't have too much oil - it's better to be too low (by a bit) than too high. GD

Poof - you get your wish! In a few weeks you will probably see lots of pics of my 84 with em - front and rear - rear with swing out tire carrier - definately a TWB exclusive! GD

Good lord - all you have to do is jack up the rear end, and turn one tire. If the other turns the same direction, it's an LSD. Or you can look at the sticker on the diff...... You don't have to swap the tranny - just the rear diff. It's pretty easy really. The hard part is converting a 3.7 LSD to a 3.9. But even that isn't that hard. GD

Yes - I did have noise actually - was a weird vibration/buzzing noise - accompanied by a big tach jump (7,000 at idle...), but it was a ND disty, and the noise came and went. I have never heard a Hitachi do that. And I have seen hitachi's with incredible amounts of wear on the shaft, still running along as if nothing had happened (with slight tach jump sometimes). Now your's is an EA82T, so your's could very well make different noises, etc. Especially since mine was on an EA81. It makes no difference tho - you can rebuild it just the same. Is there any play in the shaft? Any noticeable wear on the disty drive gear? GD

No need to replace the disty - it can be repaired. I got mine done locally for $55 - that included a rebuild of the vac advance. I think it was only $35 to have a new bushing put in. GD

Yeah - my last LSD was from an 89. I saw an 88 the other day - full package - GL-10 turbo 5 speed FT4WD. I dove under for the diff.... nodda - it was open. I didn't notice it was an 88 till after I got out from under it . I still look under all of them of course.... never know when you'll strike gold. GD

Not just for inflating tires - impact wrenches - basically, most small air tools. GD

There's a company that will convert it for you.... you have to send them your front diff. but basically, you have to dissasemble the transmission - not fun, and rather hairy. Some special tools are needed, and a manual is an absolute must. There's a couple of places where you must dissasemble in a certain order, or it all goes to hell in a handbasket rather quickly. (ie - dropping small parts down into no-mans land, then having to retrieve them by dissasembling MORE stuff in there..... bad times). As I understood it, 89 was the only year with *stock* LSD's. All other years were an option, and not all came with them. Except the RX of course. GD

You don't have to grind them at all. They will still pull up fine once you tighten them down. And unless your doing it for mags, drilling the rims is definately easier. Many, many people are running drilled rims, and put them through hell. I've never heard of one breaking, except from improper installation. GD

RainX kicks a$$. GD

Well - on many cars, doing things like this can be a problem because of the difference in the inner vs. outer bearings. If you change the wheel geometry either in or out (especially out tho), you will change how the wheel bearings are stressed. On a lot of cars, you will notice that the outer bearing is considerably smaller than the inner. By moving the wheel out, you put more stress on the small outer bearing, and this can cause failure. In some cases, it can cause the wheel to fall off. On soobs, this really doesn't apply to the front, which have the same size inner and outer bearings, and on the rear you *may* have the same inner and outer - or if you have the conical bearings on the rear, they are very strong, and the wieght of the rig - especially in the back, isn't enough to harm them. Fronts are usually the problem on other cars because of the weight up there, and the alternating loads from steering. As long as you don't have any rubbing issues with em, I say go for it. GD

The receiver hitch winch - yep - already been done. I'll be doing that on my bumpers he's making right now. The front is done, and can be seen on his web site - the one on the Gen 2 wagon.... GD

simple - pry the GL-10 label off, and say "look - by the VIN it's a GL" GD

Simple - you ask us. Answer - you don't have either one. Reason - No soob came with front, and rear's were 3.7 - your tranny is 3.9. Caleb - that's '89 GL-10 FT4WD Turbo 5 speed that has the LSD. It must be that year, and it must be turbo. GD

I know - I was just offering what I know - and that's EA81's - cause I don't like EA82's:moon:. At any rate - my point was that there is no hard and fast rule. GL-10's came with different stuff every year. LSD's were never a GL-10 option except on 89 full time 4WD 5 speed turbo's. Same with rear sway's - not a GL-10 option, but sometimes came on GL-10's. Also sometimes came on GL Turbo's. Same with LSD's - they were an option you could ask for on any car. Generally, 4WD turbo's had rear discs - that wasn't a premium option, it was standard for a lot of years. 2WD Turbo..... not sure on that one. Might have been an XT thing or something. The Scooby: Those were "options" on your car. Sure - they are factory, but Skip was talking about "standard" equipment for a GL vs. GL-10. Not optional equipment. GD

Partsman - go to B&R auto wrecking. In Eugene. You will almost certainly find what you need. GD

I would certainly be interested in buying some stuff for the benifit of the USMB. But if Paul does it..... he has to promise to ship the stuff within say..... a month. LOL. GD

That's all well and good, but the real question is what are the differences between a DL and a DL-5? LOL. A lot of the things you guys mentioned are EA82 specific. GL-10's did exist in the EA81's as well. Also, it should be mentioned that every single option that was availible for a GL-10, could also be put on a GL. My 84 wagon was just a GL, but had A/C, cruise, PW, Digi-dash, center arm rest etc..... all options associated with the GL-10. So the real differences depend entirely on *which* GL your talking about. It could mean a ton of differences, or it actually could mean nothing at all. I think I heard one time that if you priced it all out, you could actually end up with a more expensive, more decked out GL if you ordered all the options, than what a GL-10 would have been..... GD

Yeah - that's for front AND rear. Tony is very reasonable. Just wait till you all see the ones he's building for me...... Can you say "swing out tire carrier"? GD

"This is my couisin Guido.... he likes kneecaps." LOL. GD

You got lucky - believe me. My point is that you won't find one HERE for that price. Because people on here know what they are worth. If you find one for that low of a price, then the owner is either really desperate, or not very knowledgeble. And if any board members find one for that price, they are gonna snatch it up, and resell it. Or keep it. GD

Anything you get for $1,000 in your area will be awful rusty I'm afraid, or massively beat up. They are commanding a price now - in good shape - $3,000 - sometimes more. Keep looking tho. Out here in Subaru country, a Brat is a rare find under $1,000. GD

Maybe in that part of the country it's worth something - here it's not worth jack really. We have tons of them that look better than that one..... you can pick em up for pennies already running. GD

Remove the air filter - look down in the carb - if it's a 2 barrel, then it's a hitachi, if it's a single barrel, then is the Carter/Weber. Both suck about as much - but the Hitachi isn't as gutless, and has the added benifit that it's manifold is compatible with the 32/36 DGEV Weber..... GD

Here's mine - the camera doesn't really do it justice, but you get the idea: http://usmb.net/gallery/GeneralDisorders-Subaru-Pictures There at the bottom of the page. GD