GeneralDisorder

That sucks Austin. At least you made it back without getting towed like I had to after my dip in the water..... and thanks to Ken AGAIN for saving the day. I sure won't be forgetting how he helped me when my clutch went out (you too Eric). Someday I'll be able to return the favor. Glad to hear tha everyone had a good time - I would have come up, but my diff is currently out of the wagon (we welded it yesterday), and I'll be going to Medford next Sunday, so my fundage allotment for play this month has already been allocated. GD

The 5 speed is no better than an early 4 speed with the lower 3rd and 4th. You won't really use 5th on a 5 speed, just as you won't use 4th on a later model 4 speed. But on the 81/82 4 speed, you actually CAN use 4th.... as for identifing marks - I'm not aware of any. Unfortunately, there may not be any. Pulling a trans from an 81 or 82 car that looks original would be your best bet.... you can tell if the trans came from an 81 Brat GL if the 4WD shifter is turned 90 degrees... but your chances of finding an 81 Brat GL with a good tranny is slim to none..... GD

The ones that I have seen that are like this (especially the metal ones...) the gear in the diff is the real cause of the problem...... you'll just chew up another gear if that is the case.... time for another tranny. GD

I just use the axle nut sometimes - but that can ruin a good axle nut..... and if you don't have an extra..... a bit of 2x4 usually works pretty well. GD

I *think* someone checked a while back, and they are out of production.... but they did indeed make one at one time. You see them on ebay now and then.... I will check with someone I know that could make them and see what he would charge... GD

Ok - I'll grab a couple at the JY tommorow - I have someone else that wants a set for an EA82, so I'll grab a couple sets of each, and do them up. GD

Your clutch pedal may feel different than stock, but as long as the bearing doesn't fail, and the PP doesn't either - then I can't see anything wrong with it. Also - if you replaced the clutch AND the TO bearing AND it's carrier, then your probably fine. The little bearing in the flywheel would be the wrong size for the tranny shaft..... GD

I removed the old rubber that was loose - but there isn't a lot of rubber in them to begin with, and what was there, and still well attached I just left, and covered with urethane so it won't deteriorate any more. They should hold up just like any urethane mount or bushing would, and as the racing and off-road communitiy know.... they are nearly indestructible. Once fully cured, they are like a hockey puck - very dense, and hard to even bend by hand. GD

Yeah - the seal I think can be pounded in from the outside..... but if your getting a growling noise then your front diff is on the way out - either the bearings or the gears.... GD

Means that likely your throw out bearing is the wrong size (too big). GD

*UPDATE - 2/25/04* *These mounts failed in testing due to melting from exhaust temperatures. Please go here for the latest on this topic* Well - I made another set of tranny mounts for my wagon, and installed them this morning - all I can say is WOW! It's like driving a whole different car - no more jerkiness when accelerating / decelerating - just pure smooth power. And also no vibration that I can find - they are working just as you would imagine brand new mounts should work. I would reccomend this mod to EVERYONE with an older soob, as every tranny mount I have seen has been shot. The driveability has improved dramatically. Link to my old post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10424&highlight=tranny+mounts I can make these if people want me to - but you can make some yourself just as easy, and pretty cheap. The tube of urethane is like $14. I'll charge $25 a pair + shipping if you guys want me to do some.... might seem expensive till you price new ones ($55 EACH), and it takes a couple hours of my time for each set - have to pull em from the JY, then clean, prep, and put the urethane in em... GD

Scooby - he's talking about EA81's - and yes, the cams are different. It does make sense in a way - the hydro lifters cushion the valve train, and thus the hydro lifter cam has to have a taller profile in order to get the same lift. You would also want the hydro lifter heads as they have bigger valves. And if your going to go to all the work of tearing the thing down to put in a cam, then the $80 that a custom delta cam costs is a better idea in my opinion than trying to locate a hydro lifter cam.... besides with a Delta cam you can USE the hydro lifters and avoid the pain of having to adjust your valves every 30k. GD

Actually - I didn't "challenge" anyone - I think he was just saying that I "took up the challenge" cause no one else would go out mudding with him around here.... lots of soobs, but not any that are lifted and want to go play..... sure - I'll be up for something come May. Don't think my goal will be to keep up with you tho.... hehe. If I can keep up with Ken, I'll have done OK in my book. Last time he led me straight into a lake.... speedbump - those rims are chevy 6-lug trailer rims that I re-drilled to 4 lug. If you do a search on the board for "6-lug" or "chevy rims" or "toyota rims" you should find several topics dealign with this mod. They are 15" trailer rims - US wheels 70 series. You can get em in white or black from Les Shwabb for about $25 to $28 each... GD

MUCH more difficult to fab in the hummer hubs. But yes - I know what you mean. The exra gear reduction would be sweet. Unfortunately, with that diff ratio, and the gear reduction hubs, the vehicle would become completely undriveable on the street if you managed to somehow get those in.... the front is the hard part - with the steering and all..... plus you would need the brakes too, since the outer hubs have no brakes. Gawd that really would be nasty. GD

There shouldn't be any play, no. Although I have heard of this from other board members, and some have run this way for quite some time.... to fix it involves dissasembly of the tranny - LOTS of work, and special tools are required for that. No one on this board to my knowledge has actaully dissasembled a 4 speed D/R and successfully fixed anything inside. I would love to try sometime, but after reading a few of the manuals I have here, I doubt I ever will unless I can aquire some special tools, and more Subaru literature on the matter. My sugestion to you is if you are worried about it, is to replace the transmission with another 4 speed, or put in a 5 speed, which are plentiful still..... GD

Hhhmmm - yeah - the input shaft thing..... ya know, I never noticed that. Are you talking about just the tip where it slides into the flywheel? Cause I swapped that 84 2WD tranny into the 84 DL wagon, which had an 82 D/R in it prior, and then put that 82 D/R in my 84 wagon with both a 2WD, and then now a 4WD clutch.... and everything has just fit together. Have I been way lucky or something? I did notice a bearing on a JY flywheel that had a larger opening that was too big for an 82 D/R shaft..... man I am totally confused now. GD

That is often indicative of the alternator voltage regulator going out.... high voltage can cause the dash lights to come on like that. I would have at it with a meter and check out you voltages. GD

Sounds like a bad alternator to me - the clue being all the idiot lights comming on - that is sometimes indicative of your voltage regulator inside the alternator going south. That's somewhere to start anyway - pull out a multimeter, and check your voltage when it acts up like this. GD

18" pipe wrench - *something* will give...... GD

I think it could be welded - no need to weld the liner up - just weld enough aluminium back onto the block to file it down flat and be able to seal. And if you cinch a used gasket down tight enough it will work fine. I've used many old head gaskets without incident. I've also had them blow - it just depends on what shape it's in. Same goes for any gasket - exhaust gaskets are a prime example - they need replacing if they are bad..... nothing bad can come from a used gasket that works - it's only bad if it doesn't work...... I'm just saying that *I* would TRY it. Not that it will work, or that it's something that everyone should consider. These engines are tough, and very rarely do my "backwoods" engineering attempts actually fail. I'm very often pleasently surprised in fact. GD

Yeah - go to a Pull-A-Part - there will be one around the yards, just keep checking. You are in the middle of Subaru land, and there's always 4 headlight EA81's around the yards. Talk to Qman - he probably knows where one in a yard might be found.... GD

JB is pretty strong - And that looks to be about your only option short of having someone who can weld aluminium put some metal on there, and having it milled flat.... that, or use this block as your new jack-stand..... I think personally I might actually try JB weld - what's the worst that could happen? Once it's fully cured it should withstand the heat - the pressure I don't know about. Might blow the gasket again. I would certainly use an old gasket if I tried this - would be a pitty to waste a new one on such an experiment. GD

The shorter gears make it more fun to drive - better acceleration in a stock roo. GD

Put the trans in gear, and put a socket on the front pulley so you can turn the crank as you install it. That should help you line up the shaft easier. Pulling the tranny is a pain unless you have a lift and a transmission jack. Figure on at least two people, and don't forget that you have to drain the tranny fluid or you will have a HUGE puddle when you remove the driveline. GD

Not as much work as you think actually - I will shorten the axles myself - not that hard, and I can do it so they won't break. Balancing is not an issue since axles are very close to the center of rotation, and thus the balance won't matter unless you are going VERY fast. I may get them balanced at a driveline shop anyway. The only change to the diff is to remove the inboard brake rotors - which I'll probably just plasma cut off so they aren't in my way. The rest is just fabbing a frame for the diff which already has to be done anyway even with Subaru diffs. I am quite aware of what's involved - remember, I'm a mechanic in the ARMY I'm not going to get pull-a-part stuff - I'll probably buy everything I need brand new. I'll check the military surplus channels that I know of but it will probably be ebay for the diffs and brand new axles.... GD