GeneralDisorder

I'm sorry dude.... how come you can't? I'm curious. GD

They may be the same width, but the ER27 is longer - there's where your difficulty lies - and what will you do with the radiator? GD

205/75R15's will fit with a 4" lift and not much trimming. They are 26.65" outside diameter. You will have to beat down the body ridge under the fender wells to clear your tires for turning... GD

How much is shipping generally ed? Both directions..... Should be about the same for me - we are both about 3000 miles away from them... GD

If you have the nut and spring washer off, then the conical washer is what you are looking at. Rotate the hub around and look closely - you will notice there is a gap in the washer. It should be closed up since the conical washer is pushed into the hub right now. Take a flat screwdriver and a hammer, and hit the washer next to that gap - it's spring steel, so hitting it there will cause it to compress slightly, and help to unstick it from the hub. Basically, your there - you just need to whack the hub and that washer hard enough to dislodge them. Once that is done, the hub should slide right off. Also - you can try threading the nut back on the axle to protect the threads, and give the end of the axle a couple hard smacks with a small sledge. That will usually dislodge things too. You need to un-pin the inner joint, and pull it off the trans, and then the outer part of the axle can be slid out of the knuckle - sometimes this takes some smacking with a hammer and a block of wood, since it's usually pretty tight. I have seen ones that just slide right out tho... I just did an axle yesterday in fact - took me an hour cause I was going slow, and had to clean up the mess made by the old failed axle... GD

Does http://www.cvaxles.com have a warrantee on their axles ed? I'm seriously condsidering that route but I'm wary of not having a warrantee since as you know I'm lifted.... This canadian company "Mevotech" that was mentioned above does indeed have a redesigned outer joint - I have emailed them to find out more, and where I might get them in the US.... http://www.mevotech.com/ GD

When it gets really bad, you'll start to lose power, and the rotor on the shaft will smack the stator, and chew it down. Not good. GD

Buy a car that's already a manual 4WD, with the engine you want. Believe me, unless you have parts cars just hanging around your yard, you will spend more money and time converting it then just buying another. The EA82T is not a bolt in - yes, it will bolt to the tranny, and bolt down to the engine mounts, but that's about where the bolt in stops. None of the exhaust will work, or the wiring, or..... well much of anything really. The clearance on the frame rails is very tight - like 1/4" or less on each side... The auto to manual is not too dificult, and the capture nuts for the diff hanger are already present in the frame for the rear diff. You gas tank will need to be changed, as the 4WD tank is different. And the tranny tunnel may need beating or cutting to fit a 4WD tranny. The 4WD shifter mount does not exist on the 2WD tunnel, so that will have to be welded in too.... along with lots of other little things GD

Watch those autos - really crappy they are. I know of at least 3 that have torn themselves apart under 200k. GD

One 17mm nut holds the steering wheel on.... I can have one off, turned correct, and back on it less than 2 minutes. GD

Distributor shaft bushings - always is. There's shops that can rebush them for you - here's the place I use: http://www.philbingroup.com Cheaper than a new disty, and as good as new - used is only buying time, and generally costs about as much as having the bushing done.... It is NOT the module. In fact, I have never seen a module die in one of these... GD

Just to clarify, the peice cut out of the cage was from my dremel - in order that I might get a better picture of the damage, and to see what the cage surface looked like as well. The blue marks were already there of course.... I think they just regreased and rebooted a failed axle, and sold it to me as "rebuilt" I sure would like to punch that guy in the nose. GD

No - it shouldn't have to build up fuel in the line.... well it should, but it's pretty fast. About 10 seconds if that. I had my Brat's engine out, and I changed both the front and rear fuel filters, and had dry lines - didn't take any time at all to fire it up with an empty float bolwl, and no fuel in the lines.... GD

Update in my original post - more pics and damage.... GD

He can totally make you some for your 79! There's even some cars around down there that he could pattern it off. One of the reasons I had TWB do mine is because he was willing to go find a 2WD wagon to pattern the bumpers on. My car was originally 2WD, and thus the bumper mounts are completely different..... GD

Actaully you can get a lot from just listening - take the valve covers off and listen to the tail pipe with the exhaust valve open, then rotate till both are closed, and listen again. Do the same with the intake, and you can get a feel for the difference between open and closed. This is all without a gauge by the way.... GD

Yeah - I think I'll just go ahead and paint the rocker covers all the way down the car. Black down there makes it recede into the background. Helps the wagon to look taller than it really is..... GD

Ok, so I've been hearing a lot of noises from my passenger front axle, and decided to take it out and see what the deal was. At first it looked like a *massive* gear oil leak from the diff side plate, but upon closer inspection turned out to be axle grease! After removing the axle I saw the cause of this - the plug in the bottom of the inner cup is ill-fitting, or improperly installed. When you expand and contract the axle, you can hear air comming through the plug. There is no evidence of any other damage to the axle - just massive loss of grease from this incorrect rebuild. The part that really makes my cheerios sour is this axle is only about 8k miles old. And this was a rebuilt from Discount Import Parts here locally. Now I wish I had got the lifetime ones..... At least I have discovered the origin of the leak, and it's easy to fix. The stuff was dripping right on the exhaust, and made for quite a stench in the car - and even some smoke when I was at a stop light a few weeks ago. I decided that since this axle was toast anyway, I would go ahead and dismantle the thing for a closer look into what went wrong with this "rebuilt" axle. Now I don't know for sure, but I suspect that this axle wasn't rebuilt at all - it was just repacked, and a new boot put on it looks like. You guys tell me if you think the damage in the lower photo's could have been caused by less than 10k miles of driving. I replaced this axle around September last year... If you look close in the photo, you can not only see the spalling on the bearing race, but also that the race has a cracke running the length of the valley where the ball sits. What's the consensus? The boot was undamaged, and the grease was nice and clean - no evidence of leakage present, and yet the damage seems severe for less than 10k of driving. I didn't get a warrantee with this one, and I sure do feel ripped off. GD

Yeah - bottom radiator hose you can cut, and for the top, I just cut the end off the filter box right behind the heat riser inlet. Of course most of us lifted types are running Weber's, and so it's not so much of an issue. Oh - and installing the steering linkage while the front cross-member is dropped makes it a lot easier. If you wait till it's back bolted up, then it's a tight fit. I could do one in a full day by myself easy. It helps to have a hand now and then - for things like the steering linkage. You have to turn the wheel, and getting out from under the car each time is a pain. And help with the rear end is nice, as those parts are pretty heavy when your on your back, and trying to support them with one arm while attempting to thread a bolt into something.... GD

You should find an EA81 power steering rack. If you do, note that you will need the engine cross-member as well, since they are different. GD

Yep - done it many times - just grab a valve cover, and pull. GD

On those rear strut bolts at the top - the bar of metal they are threaded into is open on the back, and often times a buildup of dirt and crap back there makes them REALLY hard to get out. Spray some stuff on em a couple of days in advance, and then give em a good shot right before starting work on the front end. You do NOT want to break one off trying to get it out.... GD

It aint 300 - I can lift one and move it around myself - it's rather awkward tho... I would say somewhere on the order of 150 lbs without all the junk attached. GD

Actually, I drive it downtown all the time. I drive it to school. Parking is no prob cause I have power steering. People give me the craziest looks. Especially since I'm a running straight pipe. GD

Hhhhhmm - buy a GL. Too much work to bother swapping in all that stuff. Mostly your looking at a ton of wireing.... with the exception of the GL tilt column..... which I'm not sure would fit. DL Brats are rare - keep it stock. No rear sway's on EA81's..... ever. No overflow tanks on EA81's.... ever. Oh yeah - No power locks on EA81's.... ever. GD