GeneralDisorder

$500 or less - depending on condition, how it runs, syncro's, etc GD

Fill the rear diff to the top of the hole. You don't need a pump. Just a funnel, and a peice of tubing will work fine. Use cheap 80w90 in your diff, and Redline gear oil in your tranny. Will save the syncro's. GD

The issue is that the disty and the ecu MUST match. The 87+ disty doesn't give the correct signal to the 85/86 ecu, and vise-versa. As for using the rest of it, I couldn't tell you, but I'm sure that some parts are the same..... GD

When I first started getting soobs, I couldn't find anything but silver! At one point, I had three EA81 (one EA81T) silver wagons at my place.... GD

I seem to recall that there was something about the 87+ disty that wouldn't work.... but I can't remember what. GD

It's been done, and I plan on doing it as well. You will need the disty from an 85 or 86 SPFI EA82. You have to put the drive gear from an EA81 disty on it, and also cut off one of the mounting tabs on the side of the disty casing. The manifold will bolt on, and all you have to do is wire it up. Which shouldn't be a huge deal. The wiring harnesses usually come apart into "engine" and "accessory" bundles anyway, so an EA82 SPFI wireing harness should work without a lot of modifications. You should mount the fuel pump under the hood, and just have your stock fuel pump feed it. Since the lines in an EA81 car are not designed to handle the SPFI pump's pressure. GD

Yeah - you can leave all those valves - they won't do anything if they aren't hooked up. The vapor seperator you can either remove the line, and plug it, or just replace the fuel filter with an aftermarket one that doesn't have the vapor line on it. It's probably supposed to T into the return line - since there's a possibility of liquid getting into it. But either way really - liquid gets into the bowl vent line on a hard turn as well, so I don't think it matters. Your objective here is to simplify the system - just start pulling stuff off. But make sure you know what it's basic purpose is before you remove it. When your done, the only major vacuum lines you should have is the disty, the EGR, the brake booster, and a couple others that snake off into the firewall to operate the heater controls. The rest is garbage, and can be pulled off. The Hitachi will run just fine without any of the evap system. GD

Why not just clean the manifold up, and fill the hole with JB weld? Ought to do the trick. It's not like the hole goes anywhere special. It's there to heat the carb for emmissions. GD

Yeah - more or less. The hard lines are very confusing, since they split and branch all over the place. Hard to tell what does what. I would blow air into the disty tube, and see where it comes out.... same with the ERG. GD

ON the carb - the stuff under the manifold is crap - remove it if you want (have to reomve the manifold tho). GD

No - the disty and EGR both have special ports near the bottom of the front of the carb (right above the pinned-off idle mixture screw). They go into the maze of hard lines right now - you will re-route them. And it does matter which ones goes where - but I can't recall at the moment which is which. A little experimentation and you should be able to figure it out tho. GD

EGR is on the back of the manifold - right behind the carb - it's a big 3" metal canistor with a vacuum line running into it. It's gold in color usually. HINT: use NEW soft vacuum line to run to both the EGR, and the disty vac advance - the hard lines used to connect everything are suspect since they run into all the other places that vacuum is supposed to go...... places you are disconnecting. Useing them is just asking for a leak. GD

Sweet - just rip it all out then. Basically, you can plug off the Air injection valves with quarters (US currency - maybe you have somethign that size? hehe). And the rest can go away. All you have to leave on the carb, is fuel inlet and return lines, the bowl vent line, and the vacuum lines for the ERG valve, the vac advance on the disty, and the secondary barrel and or choke pull-off if you have them. Plug EVERYTHING else, and you'll be good. GD

One point that has failed to be mentioned - none of this matters in the slightest unless you actually drive in 4WD on a hard surface. But it does sound like maybe someone tried that...... replacing it with a 3.7 = good idea. GD

Technically known as the purge line. Not sure if that's the one, but it's certainly part of that system. There's a thermo-vacuum valve in there somewhere that won't allow the gasses from the evap can to get out till the engine reaches operating temp, thus all the nasty routing of vac lines, and crap going everywhere. You can figure it all out in your head if you stare at it long enough. Basically, you have three vent lines - on from the gas tank, one from the float bowl, and one from the "vapor seperator" on the front fuel filter. These all go into the evap can, and get trapped there when the car is sitting in a hot parking lot. Once the engine is started, and warmed up, the thermo-vacuum valve(s) open, and let the vapor back into the intake to be burnt..... Basically it's all bullsh!z - just pull out the charcoal canistor too, and get rid of all those silly hard lines that go with it. Leave the gas tank vented to the air, and route the float bowl vent to the air filter houseing. Remove that silly expensive fuel filter with it's fancy vapor seperator and replace it with a $1.49 clear model from the parts counter. And guess what - it won't impact your emmissions test in the slightest. If you do a good job, they will never know you removed anything, and none of this can be detected with a tail-pipe test.... GD

You can safely just plug that sucker. I've got that line plugged on my Brat. It's part of the vacuum system for the evaporative emmissions system. I would just plug the port, and forget about it. The RPM increase is because you are "fixing" your vac leak when you plug it off. GD

Well - I think I figured it out: That's a picture of the primary jet before I removed the miniscule shaving of wood or whatever it was. Seems to run fine for now..... but it's done that before. Hopefully this was the problem, and I've finally got it licked. Tony - looks like you were right on this one. This carb has been through hell and back. I pulled it off an engine that blew a HG, and the carb was full of "milkshake", but it runs really nice. I just had to get it cleaned out completely. GD

Good for you! Welcome to the club. It will look nice next to the rest at WCSS6. No rust..... so this one is a restoration candidate? GD

I used to clean Ford hot wire MAF's with carb cleaner, but talking to Calebz, he said he's never been able to clean a non-vane style MAF on a Subaru. GD

Yes the R160 is the rear diff. I for one have looked at the design of their "LSD", and I think it's crap. That's just my personal opinion. I guess the best term for it is a "friction spool". I suppose it may be better than nothing. Better to take a real LSD unit from something else and have it machined to fit in the front. Especially since the installation requires the dissasembly of the tranny. In the specific case of Subaru's, the front diff is too complicated to get to in the fist place to bother doing anything as lame as the "phantom grip". If your going to do it, do it right. GD

You think that's nuts - my weber runs so good that I started the car in first gear (manual), and it idled into a cabinet before I got it stopped! GD

Fuel pump is fine - both filters are brand new (napa, WIX filters) Yeah - I was thinking the same thing about the bowl vent. In the case of the Hitachi, the bowl vent's to the evap canistor. I was thinking that maybe the bowl vent was being clogged by liquid gas from the "slosh" effect. And one time it was running like this, I disconnected the bowl vent line, shook a little bit of liquid out, and then she started just fine. But when the problem came back a few hours later, the vent line was still disconnected, and I even blew into the line - nothing was blocking it, and it still wouldn't run. The gasket that seperates the halves is new. I compared it to the original (really crappy), and couldn't see any differences that would matter. The gasket is properly aligned - I have had the carb apart three times now, and each time this problem has come back.... Does anyone know if my symptoms could be from a stuck open full-power valve in the float bowl? It's not technically a serviceable part of the carb, but it's only supposed to come on at very low manifold vacuum (like wide open throttle), and if it were stuck open, it would be letting fuel right out the bottom of the float bowl.... I think this would cause a pretty rich condition, and maybe the problems I'm seeing. Anyone have experience with that before? GD

When I rebuilt the carb, I did check the float level, and it needed no adjustment at that time. And since the carb only acts up "sometimes" that leads me to believe the float level to be correct. What I'm trying to say is that the carb will "act up" when I take a hard turn or a fast take-off, but not 100% of the time when I do these things. Only sometimes. Thus the car is driveable, and just when I think I've got the problem licked, it comes back and bites me. Very intermittant, and thus difficult to troubleshoot. If it were the float, I would expect it to act up on every hard turn, or fast take-off, and then return to normal under regular driving..... which this does not. The only thing that will correct the problem is to shut it off, and walk away for a while. GD

Could be either. If it's a Hitachi, then it should be a DCP306-15 Simply look down the carb - if it's a 2 barrel, then it's Hitachi. 1 barrel is Carter/Weber GD

Vapor lock is when a hot engine vaporizes the fuel in the fuel lines going into the carb, and is generally seen on cars with engine mounted mechanical pumps.... I don't think that's likely on a Subaru, and besides that it wouldn't run at any RPM's if that were the case. It will idle, and run over 3k RPM's just fine. Also - one time I waited nearly 3 hours, and when I tried to start it, it still was acting up.... I would think it would have been plenty cool at that point to make vapor lock all but impossible. A good theory, but not the problem in this case I don't think. GD