GeneralDisorder

gregbrat - count yourself lucky it wasn't an EA82 water pump like poor caleb. EA81's are a 20 minute job. Easy stuff in comparison. GD

Don't save the EA82 for a Brat - you want an EA81 for a Brat. Simpler, and more reliable.... GD

Lesson learned - always disconnect the battery before doing major work. Disconnect the negative first, then the positive. Installation is reverse. GD

1. Dump the automatic. 2. As for engine - this depends on how much work you want to do. If you really, really want the EJ20T (although, I would go with the EJ22G personally - if you can find one), it can be done. You'll basically need a whole donor car to do it, as you'll need it's tranny as well, and all the wireing too. Custom engine mounts, and custom axles will have to be fabricated to make it hook up to the existing suspension, and the cars fuel system would have to be upgraded to handle the pressure of the fuel injection pump. The best solution in my opinion, is have a better cam ground for your EA81 - rebuild it with 1600 pistons, and put a Weber carb, and free flow exhaust on. The EA81 with a few mods is good up to 150 HP or so - which is about double what it has stock. Also much easier to do than an engine swap with a new car. Install an EA82 5 speed tranny (4WD or AWD - depending on what you want), and get rid of as much wieght as possible..... GD

It's too short, and would pull off I should think. GD

Some metal's do burn - Magnesium for example. Titanium too, although you have to get it really hot. It's classified as a Class D fire. There's some types of foam that will put one out I think, but not much will stop a burning jet plane from burning right through the deck of a ship. They just push them over the side when that happens, where they continue to burn under water! The metal is an oxidizor - in other words it produces it's own oxygen as it burns. Thus is needs no air to burn in. GD

All Gen 2 cars have the same ball joints - same knuckle, and control arm too - even 2WD's. GD

As in solid axle? People have thought of it, but I haven't seen any pictures of a solid axle conversion yet. Subaru's, much like Hummer's before the silly H2, are four wheel independant suspension, and that makes them unique..... take that away, and you might as well get a chevy LUV or something. Leaf springs are heavier, and weight is not the friend of an 80 HP car/truck. The bed is too small anyway, and the chrome on the sides is flimsy. Hauling and towing is best left to *real* trucks in my opinion. Besides - Brats are to be collected and saved, not beat up and used to haul stuff. Also - you can increase the capacity a bit by using the EA82 rear coil-overs, and lifting the rig 3". My wagon has a much greater capacity now, than it had stock.... GD

Yeah - I remember Miles mentioning that technique. Not a bad idea in my opinion, but then I've never tried it either. Excelent if you don't have an alignment tool in an emergency. I'm really laid-back, but I'm a mechanic, and when I see or hear of people doing something that might cause them more trouble than they are fixing, I get a little agitated. Sorry about that. The damage (if there is any) is done now, and you might as well drive it. If it fails, then you'll know better next time. GD

Good to know next time I need one. I'll check the EA82's at the yard too.... At first when I saw the non-sealed type, I thought I had a different trailing arm on my hands, since the race didn't look like it came out - I used one of the bearings and a socket, and beat it out of there tho. The sealed one's don't have a seperate race, but the center "spacer" section is loose on the bearing, and can be pushed up and down when it's not installed. Other than that bit of movement of the spacer, the bearing itself does not come apart, and by all apearances, the sealed ones last a LONG time. I pulled it from that Brat at 198k, and installed it in my wagon where it's still working fine. I know it was original to the Brat since the notched ring on the back had never beed unstaked or removed. I'm guessing that the dealership could get you one. Probably be expensive tho.... Just looked it up on SubaruParts.com - it seems to cross-reference to the EA82 part number.... possibly superceded, so this might not be a sealed unit (maybe only the EA81's had them): http://www.subaruparts.com/cart/?pn=621014111&submit.x=2&submit.y=6 Part number for EA81: 621014111 Part number for EA82: 906100007 GD

Man - I could really care less if you blow a tranny. You seem that think that it matters to me or something..... I just want you to know you did it wrong. You could incinerate the whole car, and snort it for all I care. GD

85 had 10 tables because of the EA82's - which he can't use. You have two choices - Hitachi, and ND. The Hitachi is the more reliable of the two. As far as advance curves - I belive Skip was the one who looked it up and found the 4WD to be the better of the two. I would keep what you have, being that it's the more reliable, and the better curved for off-road. GD

Likely you didn't run it out of fuel completely, so that probably accounts for at least 1/2 gallon there. So now your up to 14.5 or so..... 14.5 is the capacity of the EA81 4WD tank (83+).... and 15.9 is the capacity of the EA81 2WD tank..... Now I know that ALL EA82's had the 4WD tank regardless of being 4WD or not. So I speculate that your tank capacity is really 14.5 gallons, since that's about what it would have to be for you to have run out of gas at 13.9..... Not sure what's up with the manual you have.... and of course all my numbers are for EA81's, so your car could be completely different..... just offering you what I can. At any rate, I think it's clear that you have a 14.5 gallon tank.... maybe it was replaced with one from an EA81??? GD

You can tighten those front diff bearings - there's a ring that your turn to adjust the play.... play is VERY BAD on the front diff. It will lead to massive gear failure at some point if not corrected..... GD

Check you engine and tranny mounts. Also check to make sure there is no play in the front differential. Sure sounds like a bad inner DOJ on one of your axles.... but since you changed the axles, I think you are right to suspect something else. However - I often find that after doing a bunch of work looking for problems, it turns out to be an axle afterall.... remaned axles suck (for subaru's anyway), and some have been known to be bad right out of the box. I'm going with the GCK NEW axles from autozone - usually you have to special order them, but the one I just got looks very nice, and at least I know it's got all new parts in it. GD

Absolutely Shawn - at least we didn't have to rehash it. To answer Goatman - use a quarter, and stick it in the ASV pipe comming up from the head where it screws into the valve. This will disable the system, and then you won't have to worry about it blowing on you. Only take the quarter out if you need to go through emmissions later. Only takes about 20 minutes to put the quarter in.... GD

It won't be cool when you wear out the input shaft bearings in the tranny because there's too much slop from it not fitting into the flywheel bearing correctly..... I have NEVER had to grind on an input shaft - sure sometimes they take a bit of jiggling, but once you get the technique down, it's not too hard. GD

Last time I went the JY and got a flywheel, it was $20 for the flywheel and all the clutch parts.... GD

The starters are technically different - the ?Auto? is a gear reduction unit I think.... but it should still work. GD

That's not cool - no grinding the shaft please! It's supposed to sit in that bearing in the flywheel....:-\ GD

Yes, and extremely old. GD

The last one I pulled from a Brat was the single sealed bearing.... looked orignal. Have you checked with the dealership? Maybe it's different with EA82's.... I was just going by what was said above - sounded the same. GD

Completely different - except both are small econemy cars. GD

Some of the bearings use a seperate race, others use a solid sealed unit that has no seperate race. I've encountered both types. It seems that the solid sealed unit is the OEM one, and the ones with seperate races are aftermarket. At least that's the way it has seemed to me. Discussions with Mudrat79 seemed to confirm this.... GD

If the starter is off to the right, then yes. That was why they changed the bell-housing I believe - for compatibility with the EA81 transmissions.GD