GeneralDisorder

Exhaust leaks can sometimes sounds like a knock. And they especially like to sound nasty under load.... GD

The high end GL-10 models had digital radios sometimes, and there *should* be a wire down there that's always on.... if not, you can always splice into the ignition wire, as it's always hot. That's what lots of stereo shops do. As for trouble installing a CD player - they are probably refering to the fact that subaru used a common ground system on the speakers. The left channel speakers use the same ground, and the right channel uses the same ground. So there's 4 speakers total, and only two ground wires. Personally, I think the stock speakers suck, and rewireing them all, and installing new speaks is highly reccomended. Installation is easily accomplished with this $15 kit you can order from any stereo shop (it's for EA82 model cars, so make sure you mention that - works just fine for EA81's too tho): GD

I think you could call SOA and ask them. My friend asked about his 93 turbo 5 speed legacy, and they were able to answer him over the phone... GD

So apparently my problem was the ERG valve. It's causeing a small vacuum leak, and since it's tee'd off the ported vacuum line to the disty, no vacuum is getting to either one! Going to replace that darn valve tommorow. GD

Ah! You are apparently using one of the flawed code charts that I have seen floating around the internet. A code 12 is a model designation - it simply tells what type of car you have. Completely normal. If my manual is correct - you have a 2WD Automatic, 49 states model??? GD

Hhhhmm - 92,000? I heard 110,000 from 77 to 87, but who knows. The wagons were certainly more popular than the Brat's, so you can imagine there were many, many more of them made. GD

It sounds like you have the test mode connectors connected. I believe this code simply means that the computer has entered "feedback" mode. The engine has reached operating temperature, and everything is working as it should. Doesn't sound like a fault code to me. Unplug those connectors and see if you get any codes after that. GD

TONS of them. 10's of thousands I would guess. DL's seem to be more rare than GL's too - soobs were so cheap that people frequently bought the high end models. GD

If your keeping it stock height, then the 5 speed is what you want for street use. In your specific case, if you have the original tranny, then the gear ratios of 3rd and 4th are different than later years. But for an off-road rig, this is OK, since the bigger tires go better with the 81/82 4 speed than the other years. A 5 speed is ok for a lifted rig too, but you won't use 5th gear much. Later 4 speeds are exceptionally bad since you can't use 4th gear hardly at all, which means you have to wind out in 3rd all the time. The fourth gear on 82's is a blast on the freeway in a stock rig - it cruises real nice - 80 MPH at 4000 RPM's. hehehe GD

You already have an electric fan! GD

Cool - thanks! I suspect that Thermo valve (I).... think I'll test it. GD

AAAHHH! Your links don't work! No - not an emergency. I just think that the disty isn't getting any signal through the normal vacuum lines. The can is working tho, as I can connect it directly to the carb and get it to work fine. But nothing is happening when it's connected to the hard lines. Looking won't help me - I know it's connected right - something is broken! So I need the diagrams to know what parts to test.... GD

I'm guessing it would be the same as an 84, so could someone scan the diagram of the vacuum advance system from section 10 of the FSM. My FSM is for 1980, and has some weird distributors that have both advance, and retard in the vacuum can.... and it talks about timers and solenoids and junk that I don't know if I have or not. GD

I agree - and who wants timing belts anyway!?! GD

Once again - this depends on the 5 speed. The AWD (full time 4 wheel drive) 5 speeds are different than what Jerry's kit was designed around. And installation is VERY possible without his kit. People were doing it for a long time before his kit existed. But depending on the car, and the tranny that are involved, it may indeed make the install easier. It is not, however, "NEEDED". GD

Wow - the vacuum advance must have an advance, and a retard line then I should think... maybe check the retard logic to see if all is working properly?? I'll have to remember that spec for when I put the SPFI on an EA81.... GD

You are a former Subaru tech? What years did you work on mostly? GD

20 is still way too high for an NA motor. My EA81 spec is 8 (I run at 10), and your EA82 has higher compression. Hood sticker or no, you should reduce it to about 10. GD

20 sounds like a setting used on a Turbo.... which they didn't even produce in 92 on the loyale line.... could you have a replacement hood? I'm with Zap - 10 - 12 should be more in line with a non turbo motor... GD

I always wondered if you could do that - move the lifters to a solid block that is. Good to know. GD

No - they're different - the white ones I have from shwab have more of a triangular cutout in them. Basically a 13" version of the chevy trailer rims I have on the wagon (US Wheels 70 series)... GD

There's no books on the subject that I know of - you just have to hang around places like this, and do a little tinkering in the garage. As for cam's - a lot of people around here use Delta Cam up in Washinton.... I'm sure if you search the board here you'll find their info. It's about $80 for a cam for an EA81 I think... Carbs - you can do a lot of stuff, but the easiest is a Weber 32/36 DGEV. It comes as a kit (kit number K730), or you can just buy a carb from ebay, and buy the adaptor plate seperate from Redline.... call around for pricing - any import performance shop could order you the kit, or just the adaptor. Price's on the Kit range from $300, to $400, and the adaptor plate by itself is about $40. You can often pick up the carbs on ebay for $100 or so.... might need rejetting tho. You need to start with the Hitachi manifold, as the carter/weber manifold that some 82's used isn't compatible with the adaptor plate. As for the 1600 pistons.... only way I know to get them is from a used 1600 engine. They can still be found in the junk yards now and then. Depends on the tranny weather you change the diff or not. Changing it is a 20 minute job, so no problem there. A 5 speed from an RX would be a 3.7, but a 5 speed from an XT6 would be a 3.9 - which is what you already have. You should do some searches on this board - there's lots of stuff you can do to your car - too much for me to list here. Rear disc brakes comes to mind as something you probably would enjoy.... GD

Better is a relative term. What do you want? Are they both solid lifter engines? If so, I personally would use the Brat's cam, just because it's ground for torque, but if they are not both solid lifter engines, then don't swap any parts - they won't be compatible. If you want high end, then use the non-brat cam..... GD

The major change over the life of the EA81 was the intruduction of the hydraulic lifters. This also came with an increase in valve size (the so-called big-valve heads), and brought the rated HP up to about 80 (I've seen charts rating it as high as 85 on a dyno in stock form). Hydro lifter engines can be found in 83/84 automatic's, and 85+ Hatch's and Brat's. There will be a sticker on the valve cover that says "Do Not Adjust Valve Clearance". Solid lifter, small valve EA81's are rated at 73 HP I believe... Also - Brat's have a different cam - ground more for torque I believe.... so while not techinically a difference in HP, it's a difference that should be noted. Another thing to note about cam's is that the hydro cam's and the solid cam's are not interchangeable.... GD

Nice! Could you do that to my Brat? What would you charge to make my Brat look that sweet before it's paint job? Sounds like your not far from me.... GD