GeneralDisorder

You should talk to Bugaru - he has a bug that *had* an EA81. Now that engine is in the hatch. Yeah - I do like to go fast down the trails - the wagon does alright. It's pretty easy to get the rear end to slide out on gravel and such with the lincoln locker. And the power steering is very nice in all conditions. I think I'm about to eat another idler pulley bearing tho. Those damn idler pully's for the PS are down close the bottom of the car, and it's always running right in the muck zone. GD

Not sure exactly what your asking - the seats are secured to the metal bracket with normal bolts. The bracket is welded into the bed - to remove it, you will have to grind it out. GD

If it wasn't making noise, then it could just be the oil pump seals. They get brittle and sometimes even crack. You could try just a re-seal of the pump. The seal kit is cheap - like $8 or something. The whole pump isn't all that expensive either. You could even get one from a JY, and try that. Taking it apart to do the re-seal will tell you what sort of shape it's in, and then you will have the seals for a JY one if you need to go that route. GD

Myself, and Bugaru went out for some fun yesterday, and it got really nasty. Between us, I think we had to make about 8 recovery's. Not all were from really being stuck tho. A tree knot reached out and took the valve stem right out of Ian's rim, and thus a very flat tire resulted. We subsequently had to winch him up over a tree-root that his open diff (a problem which will be corrected shortly - perhaps today) wouldn't climb. I certainly got the most mud for the day, and took the prize for being stuck in the worst possible spots. The first really ugly one I tried to blast through some really thick mud, and instantly sunk up to the doors. The suction of the mud on the underbody of the rig, was too much, and I was stuck. Decided to have Ian pull me out forward so I could proceed through the next hole that was deeper than it looked, but just water this time. Sunk up past the headlights and the engine died. Ingested a good quanitity of water both in the engine, and in the cab. Really nasty mess, but since I removed the carpet after last time, it was no big deal to just pull the plugs on the floor and drain it out. I got stuck again further down the trail when I spun sideways on a log, and ended up with my front end against a shear wall of dirt, and my back tires inches away from a hole that NOTHING ever went into, and came out of under it's own power. Must have been at least 9 or 10 feet deep, and pretty snotty. It was a litteral soob swallowing abyss. Got back straight again by pressing the nose of the car against the cliff, and breaking loose all 4 tires (dropped the clutch) with Ian pulling on the rear bumper with the hatch. Worked great. With the loss of traction on the rear wheels, it just spun around like it was greased. I really wish we had got that on tape, but had run out of tape at that point. Anyway - check out the pictures, and the videos! Pictures: http://www.atlas4x4.com/gallery_detail.asp?album_id=4 Video: http://www.atlas4x4.com/video.asp?gallery_id=1 No breakage this time, except Ian's tire. But that's just a valve stem, and Les Shwab will fix for free. This is why we carry a spare! GD

Use a hose clamp - the 3" ones you find in the dryer vent section at home depot work great. You can also probably source some thin ones for a pre 69' VW swing axle CV boot - they used hose clamps originally. I used the $0.79 hose clamp from home depot on my rear axle on the lifted wagon, and after off-roading HARD all day, it shows no signs of loosening, or slipping. I wanted to find some VW ones since they are like 1/4" wide like the regular bands, but I couldn't located them on short notice, and after looking at the aftermaket VW boot kits and seeing that they use regular 1/2" wide hose clamps, I figured it couldn't hurt to try. With the welded rear diff, I've already blown up two rear axle outer cup's, so the hose clamp is really nice. Makes them easily serviceable on the trail. GD

The snap-on tool works - do a search on the board, it's on here somewhere. GD

Rust welded on. IF you do get it off, use some anti-seize on the splines when you put it back. Heat with an acetelene torch, and then dunk it cold water - that might break it loose. Dissasemble the joint, and knock the plug out of the bottom of the cup, then you can get to the stub bolt on the diff, and remove the whole stub.... You need the special stub bolt tool tho.... Last resort - cut it off with a die grinder. GD

Everyone makes mistakes - thankfully hubs are cheap at the JY. GD

Those are 6 lug chevy trailer rims (US Wheels 70 series). They do stick out a bit farther (about 1.5 - 2" past the fenders), but that's exactly what I wanted. Gives me a wider stance to offset the extra height I gained with the 28's. And yes, I did drill them. Took me about 45 minutes to do all five with a hand drill. I beveled the edges of the holes with a dremel. No vibration, and still perfectly balanced - at least to the 95 MPH I've had it up to..... if you don't like the extra holes, you can either do the 6 lug conversion, or weld them up and paint over em. This gives a better idea of the offset: GD

Aluminium baseball bat to the head. He won't get up..... probably ever. Might even have to be a closed casket. GD

Unless they are VERY cheap, why bother? These (15's) are $25 each from Les Shwab..... GD

I seem to recall someone saying that the pressure regulator was 1:1, in other words, it really doesn't do anything..... I would first try just eliminating it. Extraneous parts are not unheard of on Subaru's. GD

Obviously, he's not so new that he didn't know the 6 lug conversion exists. And therefore he must also know there are tons of posts that go on at great length on how to do it, and the pro's/con's. It was thus apparent that he needed to be made aware of the search function. Besides that, the conversion is so simple that a monkey with a drill could probably do it. One only has to LOOK at the car with a wheel off, to see what has to be done. This isn't rocket science. GD

Your clicking sure sounds a lot like dirty hydrualic lifters to me, but your explanation of the on/off nature of the problem when letting up on the gas pedal also sounds alot like a bad front axle.... you may have several unrelated problems. The smoke sounds like your automatic tranny vacuum modulator is bad.... taking the corner hard tilts the fluid enough to get sucked into the modulator valve. Is the smoke white or black or blue? White would indicate a bad modulator valve. They are only about $30 new. Check your tranny fluid too, as it may have gone down some due to the burning. Run some 20w50 oil, and half a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and see if that helps the clicking. If it is the lifters, it's nothing to worry about - they will click for tens of thousands of miles with no ill effect. Just annoying. If it's an axle that's clicking, then you should replace that axle. Look at the boots and check to see if any are torn open. GD

Yes - with sometimes a LOT of work. Other times nearly none. Like transmissions are the SAME. But 2WD vs. 4WD are not - neither are Auto's. The difference is in the floorpan sheetmetal. Going from 2WD to 4WD is sometimes difficult....... GD

My EA81 wagon has a trip computer. It's carbed. So yes, it's possible. I don't know if it was done on the EA82's or not. Someone else will have to answer that. GD

Don't fix it. That's a nice battle scar - keep it. GD

Do a search. Mark, drill, grind flat if you like, pound in studs. Done. GD

Remove it. With the lift, and (for me) toyota rims, I don't notice any difference with vs. without it. The wider (by a good 6" or so) stance of the car makes up for it quite a bit. I routinely do 80 MPH down the freeway, and body roll really isn't all that noticeable. I haven't even come close to rolling my wagon - either on or off-road. But I wouldn't really-x it either. That's just not what a lifted rig like ours was built for. But for off-road, removing it allows better articulation. Also - consider that the bar was designed for a car with 185's.... with the 215's I'm running, and the height of my rig, the bar is WAY to small to have any real impact that I noticed. Body roll was the same before I took it off as it was after. The only reason I removed it at all was because it was just in the way, and it prevents good articulation at low speeds. GD

The rear wheel bearings are held in by a big threaded ring on the backside of the trailing arm. It's got notches in it to turn it by - the outer part of the trailing arm has a thin metal ring that acts as a lock, by bending a portion of it into the notches in the threaded ring. This prevents it from unthreading itself, and loosening the bearing. I would start with that - make sure it is TIGHT, and also has a couple of those notches bent down to hold it in place. Edit - I just saw you have a Gen 1 - so what I just said may or may not apply. If it does, great. Otherwise, you'll need assistance from a Gen 1 person..... hehe GD

It's important to note that the article also points out that the disty mechanical advance is designed hand-in-hand with how the vacuum advance will be connected. Application of vacuum advance where it was not designed, could cause an over-advance situation due to the mechanical advance not being calibrated for that application. If I were to change how my vacuum advance was connected, I would have a good look at the mechanical advance, and probably have it re-calibrated for proper running under full-manifold connected vacuum advance. GD

Loop a rope around the output at the rear of the tranny, and lift it up a little - not all the way, just so it will be slanted about the right angle to slide onto the tranny. The rope can go up through the cab, over the drivers seat, and just slam it in the car door..... then get under there, and position yourself under the tranny with your head toward the rear of the car. Manhandle the thing onto the engine, and with a bit of patience, and a breaker bar on the crank pully that you can operate with your foot, you should be able to slide it on.... I've done this before. It wasn't easy, but I did the job. No jack used at all. Car was on jack stands of course. As for removal. I try to make the "landing" area soft under the car. If your working by yourself, it's going to DROP out, and as long as I put down some padding, I've never had a problem there. GD

Other senders are also different - the fuel level sender inside the tank for example..... it's no easy swap. Look up all the specs in the FSM.... there's a lot more to it than figureing out the wireing (not that that is particularly easy either). GD

Yeah - There was a recall in like 82 for the vacuum operated AIS valve's (used on the feedback carb models). The reed portion of the valve is the same as the non-vacuum operated type. Because of the recall, I think they are like $25 or something. You can then replace the parts in your old one that are bad using the parts from the new one as Ed sugested. Also - since you only need these to pass emmissions, and since the quarters are easy to remove and install, I just leave them in all the time unless I'm getting tested. This way the valve is not functioning, and thus will basically never fail again. GD

Leave the EGR too. Also there is at least one vac line to the heater control's on your dash, and others if you have anything like cruise control, etc. Be careful - remove it ONLY if you know what it does. GD