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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. Man - I could really care less if you blow a tranny. You seem that think that it matters to me or something..... I just want you to know you did it wrong. You could incinerate the whole car, and snort it for all I care. GD
  2. 85 had 10 tables because of the EA82's - which he can't use. You have two choices - Hitachi, and ND. The Hitachi is the more reliable of the two. As far as advance curves - I belive Skip was the one who looked it up and found the 4WD to be the better of the two. I would keep what you have, being that it's the more reliable, and the better curved for off-road. GD
  3. Likely you didn't run it out of fuel completely, so that probably accounts for at least 1/2 gallon there. So now your up to 14.5 or so..... 14.5 is the capacity of the EA81 4WD tank (83+).... and 15.9 is the capacity of the EA81 2WD tank..... Now I know that ALL EA82's had the 4WD tank regardless of being 4WD or not. So I speculate that your tank capacity is really 14.5 gallons, since that's about what it would have to be for you to have run out of gas at 13.9..... Not sure what's up with the manual you have.... and of course all my numbers are for EA81's, so your car could be completely different..... just offering you what I can. At any rate, I think it's clear that you have a 14.5 gallon tank.... maybe it was replaced with one from an EA81??? GD
  4. You can tighten those front diff bearings - there's a ring that your turn to adjust the play.... play is VERY BAD on the front diff. It will lead to massive gear failure at some point if not corrected..... GD
  5. Check you engine and tranny mounts. Also check to make sure there is no play in the front differential. Sure sounds like a bad inner DOJ on one of your axles.... but since you changed the axles, I think you are right to suspect something else. However - I often find that after doing a bunch of work looking for problems, it turns out to be an axle afterall.... remaned axles suck (for subaru's anyway), and some have been known to be bad right out of the box. I'm going with the GCK NEW axles from autozone - usually you have to special order them, but the one I just got looks very nice, and at least I know it's got all new parts in it. GD
  6. Absolutely Shawn - at least we didn't have to rehash it. To answer Goatman - use a quarter, and stick it in the ASV pipe comming up from the head where it screws into the valve. This will disable the system, and then you won't have to worry about it blowing on you. Only take the quarter out if you need to go through emmissions later. Only takes about 20 minutes to put the quarter in.... GD
  7. It won't be cool when you wear out the input shaft bearings in the tranny because there's too much slop from it not fitting into the flywheel bearing correctly..... I have NEVER had to grind on an input shaft - sure sometimes they take a bit of jiggling, but once you get the technique down, it's not too hard. GD
  8. Last time I went the JY and got a flywheel, it was $20 for the flywheel and all the clutch parts.... GD
  9. The starters are technically different - the ?Auto? is a gear reduction unit I think.... but it should still work. GD
  10. That's not cool - no grinding the shaft please! It's supposed to sit in that bearing in the flywheel....:-\ GD
  11. The last one I pulled from a Brat was the single sealed bearing.... looked orignal. Have you checked with the dealership? Maybe it's different with EA82's.... I was just going by what was said above - sounded the same. GD
  12. Completely different - except both are small econemy cars. GD
  13. Some of the bearings use a seperate race, others use a solid sealed unit that has no seperate race. I've encountered both types. It seems that the solid sealed unit is the OEM one, and the ones with seperate races are aftermarket. At least that's the way it has seemed to me. Discussions with Mudrat79 seemed to confirm this.... GD
  14. If the starter is off to the right, then yes. That was why they changed the bell-housing I believe - for compatibility with the EA81 transmissions.GD
  15. Ask Caboobaroo about the differences.... I didn't even know till he showed me his flea market 5200 and I compared it side-by-side with my DGV I have sitting here. I was very surprised to find they are quite different in terms of bore sizes. The DGV probably flows twice as much as the 5200 I looked at, but just looking at the bottom where the throttle plates are, they look the same! It's very decieving, and I don't even expect people will believe it till they have seen a picture. I should have taken one when I had the chance.... GD
  16. It appears you have answered your own question then - apparently YOU need to use the EA81 style on your car. What you have to realize is that not all the EA81's out there are the same. They changed things over the years, and depending on what year/tranny/model you have, things are different. There have been a couple cases where Jerry's kit didn't work perfectly because of these differences. There is no hard and fast rule on this stuff - Subaru's are like Legos - you just need to find the parts that fit, and make it work. Even 5 speed trannies are not all the same..... As for the shifters, they never line up. You have choices - either get Jerry's kit, or use the EA82 shifters with the EA81 console's.... GD
  17. Redline is good stuff. Expensive at about $8 a quart.... GD
  18. The EA82 cross-member should work with modifications.... Or just drill out the EA81 mounts, and use the EA81 cross-member. GD
  19. All Brat's are 4WD. With the exception of a VERY rare european Gen 1 model called the "shifter" Also - Brat's have the SAME wheel-base as wagons - both EA81 and EA82. Another thing - Brat's are NOT for hauling heavy stuff. Cargo capacity is the SAME as a wagon - 800 lbs including passengers. Anything close to that, or over, and you risk breaking a torsion bar. GD
  20. For my Brat I'm going to lighten the EA82 flywheel for better performance.... thus the lathe job. A lighter flyhweel rev's quicker - good for a street rig. Off-road you want heavier for torque. Generally people use the EA82 tranny mounts. GD
  21. The seal on the tranny side of the cable went bad, and it sucked oil into the speedo. Doubtful you could fix it. Replace the speedo. GD
  22. EA81 hydro's rarely tick from what I've seen and heard. Mine doesn't and the car wasn't very well cared for until I got a hold of it. It's the EA82's that tick - the pressure relief springs are an OHC thing only. The hydro lifters in the EA81 are in the block, not the heads. GD
  23. You will benifit in a couple ways - one is that the Weber is simpler to work on, and another is the progressive linkage. As to better mileage, the only reason people claim that is because their Hitachi was in bad shape. I've seen and owned Hitachi's that could get 30 MPG. My Brat when I got it was getting 23, and after overhauling the fuel system, I'm up to 29 or 30 with the original carb. As for pulling harder, a DGV will, but a DFV is crippled by the smaller size of it's venturi's - even tho the base of the carb is a 32/36, it doesn't live up to the DGV for pulling power. And in my opinion, if you're going to bother with buying an adaptor and such, then your better off finding a DGV, otherwise the cost of the adaptor is more than a rebuild kit for the Hitachi, and the Hitachi when working properly makes the car very nice to drive - it's a very behaved, tame carb, and far more advanced when it comes to emmissions and such. More complicated too tho, so you really have to know what's what on the Hitachi. GD
  24. Right on - that's what I'm going to do as well. And I have a friend with a lathe that will turn some metal off it for me..... GD

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