GeneralDisorder

Hopefully, you won't have too many issues with the tranny tunnel, but there's a couple of small things you will have to do. For one thing, the 4WD lever mount does not exist on your car, so you will have to drill out the spot welds, and bolt it down to your tunnel after making a slight indentation for it with your hammer: http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo55 The shifter hole will need to be enlarged a bit. Make a template from your donor car so you know the size and shape to cut it to. In one of the pictures above you can see where I did this to my car (it was 2WD, so yours will look slightly different, but you get the idea). The auto tunnel's are bigger than my 2WD tunnel was, but you may still need to beat on the tunnel like I had to in order to get the tranny all the way up into it. You can also add some washers to the tranny x-member, and the radius rod plates to make a mini body lift just so the tranny does not rub the tunnel. You should probably replace your clutch and your rear main seal while your in there, as it would suck to have to pull the engine after you're done with the tranny. Oh - and do this to your shifter while you have it out, shifting will be much tighter, and you will not have to worry about it again. Also much easier to do with the tranny out. http://usmb.net/gallery/GeneralDisorders-Subaru-Pictures/shifter_play_fix GD

I think he was refering to a riser between the carb and filter, not between the carb and the manifold. GD

That's going to be a problem then, as the subaru wheels have fairly unique backspacing. Well - at least I haven't seen the same on any 6 lug rims I've played with. All the truck rims your going to find will leave your tires sticking out a good 2" or more..... maybe something from a car? I don't even know if something like that exists. You could call up stockton wheel and have them make whatever you like probably. Wouldn't be cheap tho. GD

Just use two round filters... check redline's web site - they might have some with the same size opening. You could probably make an adaptor for the carbs if nothing else. GD

Quite a while ago, and in Eugene. They might still be there, but I don't plan on going down there for a while. GD

Is the play vertical or horizontal? Horizontal is normal (in and out, not up and down) - as Zapar mentioned. Vertical (or horizontal front and back) could indicate a failure of the front differential bearings. GD

EA81 and EA82 automatics are renown the world over for being pretty crappy. I wouldn't count on it handling "extra" power. Almost without exception the ones I've encountered have either been dead, or shifted strangely. The problem is heat, and bad maintenance. Unlike the rest of the Subaru parts, these need a lot of attention. Changeing the fluid every 15k, and adding a cooler would be adviseable, but that would have virtually no effect on the govenor gear, as that runs off the front diff, and thus runs in gear oil, not hydraulic fluid. When the diff drive gear gets sloppy, it will eat a governor gear every couple hundred miles! The governor also is a precision part, and in order to shift smoothly, the edges have to be "dressed" with a file as they tend to develop burrs and flat spots. I also had an EA81T wagon that chewed up it's forward drive gears. Still worked in reverse tho. hehe. I personally would stay away from ANY automatics of that vintage. Maybe if you found one with really, really low miles, and started doing extremely regular maintenance. But with the modifications you are talking about, I don't understand why you want an auto anyway. The torque converter is extremely inneficient, and will chew up a good amount of your HP. The EA series auto's that I've driven could barely get out of their own way with a running start.... GD

The initial setting for that screw is 4 turns out BTW. GD

I think grounded should read full. I would check the wires to the sending unit... GD

The governor thing is pretty simple - and could account for your shifting problems - I would at least try it. Those auto's are pretty crappy tho, and it could fail at any time on you. I would make plans to swap it out sooner rather than later, as you are just seeing the beginings of the iminent demise of your tranny. Would suck to chew up the governor gear, or lose all your forward gears and get stranded somewhere with it. GD

I agree - I have a high topper for a Gen 1 that rises right off the back of the cab. In fact all the high toppers I have seen are that way. GD

It's not reccomended because the FSM says to use a press. Anytime they say that, the third party manual printers just tell you to leave it alone. Fact of the matter is that no press is required.... it's just a tight friction fit into the hub. Same goes for the front and rear wheel bearings. GD

Just a side note, but if anyone in WA is having trouble passing, they can go through the OR DEQ as many times as they want for free! It's no charge to fail, an there's no limit to the number of times you can fail. The test itself is the same, so if you pass here, you should pass up there. Also, the DMV down here says that a good pass slip from WA is good for 30 days just like a good slip from OR is.... that may or may not be true up there, but if you do pass it's only $21 for the pass slip - and if you don't want that, just drive out - you only pay if you want the paper! GD

EA82 axles are longer by a good couple inches. They are also pretty wimpy looking. I have compared them side by side at the JY.... didn't look into joint swapability, but I've heard on here before that it doesn't work. The joints look to be smaller in diameter, so probably a problem with the spline counts on the shaft itself. GD

As has been stated in here several times, the EGR doesn't play a huge part in emmissions on the EA81. It's primary job is to reduce combustion temps. Reducing combustion temps helps a whole host of things, only one of which is reduction of NOX emissions (and even then, only by around 15-20%). GD

Anything that would eat silicone, would destroy the block and heads in the process..... I'm afraid he'll have to tear it apart to clean that stuff out. The HG's themselves might be salvageable..... but don't count on it. GD

Weight. GD

I found three of those at the JY once, but I don't really want em (or to try and find another), and they had curb rash anyway. GD

Well - it does apply - sort of. It applies to the engine itself, yes.... but not the distributor per-se. The distributor that was designed for these engines was (to your mind set) badly designed. Now that being said, IF you wanted to run full manifold vacuum, there is nothing wrong with that in principle, but the distributor would have to be redesigned to accomidate that "mod". Other makes / models may not need a redesign to take advantage of your "mod", but the Subaru design does. Simple fact of it is that running full manifold vacuum will flop the vacuum advance curve over. It will make the advance curve almost a mirror image of what it's supposed to be. The short answer is that while this may be a worthwhile mod, you need to do a bit more work to get there than a VW, or whatever else you might own. No one is argueing that this isn't a good mod, I'm arguing that this isn't a good mod *using the stock distributor*. Also - I have some more technical data - taken from a friends 83 FSM. The mechanical advance peaks at only 1700 RPM's or so, not the 3k or 4k that a lot of people seem to think it does. It actually comes in pretty quickly. One interesting thing I noted was that the 83 vacuum module was good for about 12 degrees of advance as compared to the 10 degrees from the 80/81 FSM....interesting. And you are (in my opinion) 100% correct on the Weber thing. I don't believe that a stock motor benifits much at all from a Weber. However, that beign said, there are still benifits to having one. It's simpler to work on, and the progressive linkage gives it a more "sporty" feel. It also increases the low-end torque by allowing you to instantly open both barels by fully depressing the pedal. On the Hitachi, the secondary is vacuum operated, and doesn't kick out the low-end torque because of that. As for HP, and top end, I think a couple horses are gained from a Weber, and a better flowing exhaust, but it's mostly the exhaust that's doing it. I'll be building an engine here shortly with a bigger cam, decked and ported heads, HC pistons, custom exhaust, and (you guessed it!) a recurved disty. that will be more capable of utilzing the Weber. GD

The EA series has two styles - the 4 speed single range 4WD's, and some older 2WD's had the old style bell-housing with the starter on the top, and those will not bolt to EA81's or EA82's. Not that you would want any of those tranny's anyway.... All EA81, EA82, and ER27 tranny's have the same mounting, but clutch and flywheel parts must be interchanged carefully. GD

Absolutely correct Ed! That's why I have these guys rebuild mine with brand new rubber: www.philbingroup.com Cost is about $35 for any vacuum advance module.... And the figure for the mechanical advance is 15 degrees maximum. So total advance is limited to 23 degrees with only mechanical and initial advance settings. GD

I just had a chat with Mudrat about this, and apparently, you need to adjust the choke. if it's already been rebuilt, there's a good chance you don't have rivets, you have screws all the way around the choke housing. The bi-metal spring in the choke housing gets old, and out of adjustment. Apparently with the engine dead cold, you should set the choke so it is just barely closed after depressing the throttle fully one time. This should give you the high idle on a cold start..... worth a try at least eh? GD

It's not exactly the choke - it's another mechanism that is linked to it. There is a cold idle-up that's supposed to run the idle up to around 1500 RPM's (near as I can tell) till the engine warms up. In order to get into the choke housing, you have to drill out two rivets, and remove one screw. Inside I imagine you will find all the electric choke parts, and the idle up bits too. There is a rod that extends from the housing, down to the primary barel throttle shaft - you will see what I'm talking about if you take a look at the carb with the air filter housing removed. What I can't figure out is why this mecanism *sometimes* works and sometimes does not. If I remove the top of the carb for other adjustments, sometimes it will just start working, and will continue to do so till I try to adjust the carb again, and then it stops. Or like right now - it will kick in a little bit if I hold the RPM's up for about 10 seconds when cold. Doesn't feel like it's fully engaging tho. I'll be dissasembling mine to inspect this mechanism soon. I'll try to remember to post what I find..... GD

Tough lesson. Glad no one was hurt tho. Too bad about the justy, but it's only a peice of metal - don't be too hard on her. GD

That's pretty typical for Hitachi choke's. Seems that every time I take the carb apart, and put it back together again, it acts a little different. I haven't opened up a choke yet to see what the deal is, but likely your mechanic won't be able to do anything for you. Tell you to get the carb rebuilt again probably..... hehe GD