GeneralDisorder

Ask Caboobaroo about the differences.... I didn't even know till he showed me his flea market 5200 and I compared it side-by-side with my DGV I have sitting here. I was very surprised to find they are quite different in terms of bore sizes. The DGV probably flows twice as much as the 5200 I looked at, but just looking at the bottom where the throttle plates are, they look the same! It's very decieving, and I don't even expect people will believe it till they have seen a picture. I should have taken one when I had the chance.... GD

It appears you have answered your own question then - apparently YOU need to use the EA81 style on your car. What you have to realize is that not all the EA81's out there are the same. They changed things over the years, and depending on what year/tranny/model you have, things are different. There have been a couple cases where Jerry's kit didn't work perfectly because of these differences. There is no hard and fast rule on this stuff - Subaru's are like Legos - you just need to find the parts that fit, and make it work. Even 5 speed trannies are not all the same..... As for the shifters, they never line up. You have choices - either get Jerry's kit, or use the EA82 shifters with the EA81 console's.... GD

Redline is good stuff. Expensive at about $8 a quart.... GD

The EA82 cross-member should work with modifications.... Or just drill out the EA81 mounts, and use the EA81 cross-member. GD

All Brat's are 4WD. With the exception of a VERY rare european Gen 1 model called the "shifter" Also - Brat's have the SAME wheel-base as wagons - both EA81 and EA82. Another thing - Brat's are NOT for hauling heavy stuff. Cargo capacity is the SAME as a wagon - 800 lbs including passengers. Anything close to that, or over, and you risk breaking a torsion bar. GD

For my Brat I'm going to lighten the EA82 flywheel for better performance.... thus the lathe job. A lighter flyhweel rev's quicker - good for a street rig. Off-road you want heavier for torque. Generally people use the EA82 tranny mounts. GD

The seal on the tranny side of the cable went bad, and it sucked oil into the speedo. Doubtful you could fix it. Replace the speedo. GD

EA81 hydro's rarely tick from what I've seen and heard. Mine doesn't and the car wasn't very well cared for until I got a hold of it. It's the EA82's that tick - the pressure relief springs are an OHC thing only. The hydro lifters in the EA81 are in the block, not the heads. GD

You will benifit in a couple ways - one is that the Weber is simpler to work on, and another is the progressive linkage. As to better mileage, the only reason people claim that is because their Hitachi was in bad shape. I've seen and owned Hitachi's that could get 30 MPG. My Brat when I got it was getting 23, and after overhauling the fuel system, I'm up to 29 or 30 with the original carb. As for pulling harder, a DGV will, but a DFV is crippled by the smaller size of it's venturi's - even tho the base of the carb is a 32/36, it doesn't live up to the DGV for pulling power. And in my opinion, if you're going to bother with buying an adaptor and such, then your better off finding a DGV, otherwise the cost of the adaptor is more than a rebuild kit for the Hitachi, and the Hitachi when working properly makes the car very nice to drive - it's a very behaved, tame carb, and far more advanced when it comes to emmissions and such. More complicated too tho, so you really have to know what's what on the Hitachi. GD

Right on - that's what I'm going to do as well. And I have a friend with a lathe that will turn some metal off it for me..... GD

Next time, don't pull the tranny, pull the engine forward. Remove the radiator, and just rock the engine forward enough to slide the clutch and flywheel out. Last time I got one from the JY, it took me 30 minutes tops. Actually - that time I was also getting a flywheel for an 82 Brat to upgrade the clutch! In that 84, either the engine was replaced, and it came from a 2WD, or they used a 2WD clutch because they are cheaper..... GD

Yes - the DFV series (or holley/weber 5200) will work, but the venturi's are smaller than a DGV. You won't get the same torque from it as you would from a DGV. Possibly a little better than a Hitachi, but the EA82 Hitachi's are bigger than the EA81, so maybe not much at all really. It will "feel" better because of the progressive linkage, but you can wrap a wire around the Hitachi linkage to make it act similarly.... GD

Yeah - I think that one of the caliper bracket mounting holes has to be ovaled out or something.... just can't recall exactly what he said. Maybe a little grinding too. You'll just have to play around with it. GD

Ah - that's different. You didn't mention this before. Your problem is that the parking light bulbs are not the right type. They do not have the right resistance value, and are making the blinker modual think you have a bad bulb. I did this on my wagon, and mine blink fast all the time now. I knew it would happen, but I don't care. If you care, you can drill holes in the marker light casing, and install a regular blinker bulb, or you can probably figure out a 12v resistor from an electrical shop that will do the trick for you as well by installing it in series with the marker bulb. GD

You either have a bad blinker module, or a short. A short would definately do it, and after a crash I would think that might be the likely cause..... GD

Most of us don't run them. GD

EA82 flywheel an PP WILL NOT VIBRATE. There is no evidence to sugest this other than speculation. And many have used the EA82 flywheel on the EA81 crank with no problems at all. The flywheel is centered on the raised ring in the center of the crank, not by the bolt holes. The bolt holes are bigger, but it's not an issue for street, or off-road use. I know that Qman is even using an XT6 flywheel and PP on his EA81, and has had no problems with this setup. The XT6 is the heaviest duty flywheel and PP that came stock on any EA series engine. And if you feel uncomfortable with the holes being bigger, then go get some bushings to fill in the gap. The benifits are several - for one, the release bearing is a different size, and will contact the PP fingers differently - resulting it a different "feel" to the clutch. Also - the XT6 PP is quite a bit stronger, and will lock up better for street use. Ed - your vibration is probably suspension related. My bone stock Brat vibrate's a bit on the freeway too - it's 20 year old bushings and ball joints that are doing it, not the flywheel. If the flywheel were in fact vibrating, you would have destroyed your crank bearings in only a few thousand miles. Plus you would get the same vibration even when not moving at all if it were the flywheel - just from reving the engine to 3k, and letting it sit there...... GD

SPFI or MPFI? GD

Same stuff you need for a Gen 2 car - disc+hub, caliper, backing plate, and rubber hose...... at least I'm assuming so. Like I said, I've only seen it, but not done it myself. GD

The reason your EA81 flywheel and PP won't work with the EA82 disc, is because you have an 82 Brat. 82 was the only year with the 200mm clutch. If you aquire an 83+ flywheel and PP, the EA82 disc WILL work just fine as Shawn sugested. The EA81 (83+) and the EA82 4WD clutch is 225mm, or 8-7/8". GD

What about other NAPA stores? Eugene isn't horribly far from me, but is there anyway I could say buy it over the phone, and have it delivered through another NAPA here locally? I know you guys transfer stuff all over that place between stores all the time.... GD

Rear shock, or wheel bearing would be my guess..... there's not much else back there that could make noise like that. 2WD or 4WD? 2WD wheel bearings are a LOT easier on the rear to replace (cheaper too). GD

Yes - I know a guy that has done it. You have grind a little on something I think.... can't recall exactly, but yes, it will work. GD

And what exactly is the upper link of the rear suspension if the "coilover" isn't? I can see no real difference in the design, other than the way they mount. The strut is a clamp style mount, and a hard bolted mount on the top, and the coilover is a bolted mount that can pivot both at the top and the bottom. They function exactly the same tho - a spring wrapped around a shock absorber. This has been discussed before as I recall, and as far as I'm concerned they are the same thing. Only difference is the usage. In the front, it's called a strut because it's allowed to turn I guess. The rear's don't turn, so to differentiate it's called a coilover. Seems silly. Maybe there's a reason for the terminology, I'm not sure..... I guess I'm just making the point that the function is the same, and the principle of operation is the same as well. GD

504's and 505's. And yes - 15" steel's did exist. GD