GeneralDisorder

Next time, don't pull the tranny, pull the engine forward. Remove the radiator, and just rock the engine forward enough to slide the clutch and flywheel out. Last time I got one from the JY, it took me 30 minutes tops. Actually - that time I was also getting a flywheel for an 82 Brat to upgrade the clutch! In that 84, either the engine was replaced, and it came from a 2WD, or they used a 2WD clutch because they are cheaper..... GD

Yes - the DFV series (or holley/weber 5200) will work, but the venturi's are smaller than a DGV. You won't get the same torque from it as you would from a DGV. Possibly a little better than a Hitachi, but the EA82 Hitachi's are bigger than the EA81, so maybe not much at all really. It will "feel" better because of the progressive linkage, but you can wrap a wire around the Hitachi linkage to make it act similarly.... GD

Yeah - I think that one of the caliper bracket mounting holes has to be ovaled out or something.... just can't recall exactly what he said. Maybe a little grinding too. You'll just have to play around with it. GD

Ah - that's different. You didn't mention this before. Your problem is that the parking light bulbs are not the right type. They do not have the right resistance value, and are making the blinker modual think you have a bad bulb. I did this on my wagon, and mine blink fast all the time now. I knew it would happen, but I don't care. If you care, you can drill holes in the marker light casing, and install a regular blinker bulb, or you can probably figure out a 12v resistor from an electrical shop that will do the trick for you as well by installing it in series with the marker bulb. GD

You either have a bad blinker module, or a short. A short would definately do it, and after a crash I would think that might be the likely cause..... GD

Most of us don't run them. GD

EA82 flywheel an PP WILL NOT VIBRATE. There is no evidence to sugest this other than speculation. And many have used the EA82 flywheel on the EA81 crank with no problems at all. The flywheel is centered on the raised ring in the center of the crank, not by the bolt holes. The bolt holes are bigger, but it's not an issue for street, or off-road use. I know that Qman is even using an XT6 flywheel and PP on his EA81, and has had no problems with this setup. The XT6 is the heaviest duty flywheel and PP that came stock on any EA series engine. And if you feel uncomfortable with the holes being bigger, then go get some bushings to fill in the gap. The benifits are several - for one, the release bearing is a different size, and will contact the PP fingers differently - resulting it a different "feel" to the clutch. Also - the XT6 PP is quite a bit stronger, and will lock up better for street use. Ed - your vibration is probably suspension related. My bone stock Brat vibrate's a bit on the freeway too - it's 20 year old bushings and ball joints that are doing it, not the flywheel. If the flywheel were in fact vibrating, you would have destroyed your crank bearings in only a few thousand miles. Plus you would get the same vibration even when not moving at all if it were the flywheel - just from reving the engine to 3k, and letting it sit there...... GD

SPFI or MPFI? GD

Same stuff you need for a Gen 2 car - disc+hub, caliper, backing plate, and rubber hose...... at least I'm assuming so. Like I said, I've only seen it, but not done it myself. GD

The reason your EA81 flywheel and PP won't work with the EA82 disc, is because you have an 82 Brat. 82 was the only year with the 200mm clutch. If you aquire an 83+ flywheel and PP, the EA82 disc WILL work just fine as Shawn sugested. The EA81 (83+) and the EA82 4WD clutch is 225mm, or 8-7/8". GD

What about other NAPA stores? Eugene isn't horribly far from me, but is there anyway I could say buy it over the phone, and have it delivered through another NAPA here locally? I know you guys transfer stuff all over that place between stores all the time.... GD

Rear shock, or wheel bearing would be my guess..... there's not much else back there that could make noise like that. 2WD or 4WD? 2WD wheel bearings are a LOT easier on the rear to replace (cheaper too). GD

Yes - I know a guy that has done it. You have grind a little on something I think.... can't recall exactly, but yes, it will work. GD

And what exactly is the upper link of the rear suspension if the "coilover" isn't? I can see no real difference in the design, other than the way they mount. The strut is a clamp style mount, and a hard bolted mount on the top, and the coilover is a bolted mount that can pivot both at the top and the bottom. They function exactly the same tho - a spring wrapped around a shock absorber. This has been discussed before as I recall, and as far as I'm concerned they are the same thing. Only difference is the usage. In the front, it's called a strut because it's allowed to turn I guess. The rear's don't turn, so to differentiate it's called a coilover. Seems silly. Maybe there's a reason for the terminology, I'm not sure..... I guess I'm just making the point that the function is the same, and the principle of operation is the same as well. GD

504's and 505's. And yes - 15" steel's did exist. GD

Yes GD

All the sending units are different - even the fuel level sending unit. You will need a donor car with all those parts. The wireing is completely different too - so you may want to swap wireing harnesses. The 83/84 digi's are notoriously bad juju, so I would stay away from them at all costs. They tend to die if you even look at them cross-eyed. Very naughty little guys. Sensitive to voltage that hasn't first been cleansed by the pope. But hey - it's your car. GD

They must be struts - otherwise, you don't have anything to hold the car up. Just a shock will fully compress under the load of the vehicle, and be VERY dangerous to drive - not to mention look very weird. GD

Totally - you should come up here sometime Sean. One thing you have to understand is how many people look, and wave at our rigs when we are around town. Hard to remember everyone. I do take more notice of the people in soobs tho.... but it's getting so that I don't notice the attention as much. I did notice the truck with two women in it that held a hand written note up to the window that read "Your Cute!" as I was rolling down the freeway.....:cool: GD

Yeah - I wondered the same. Rods are going to cost you. And I haven't seen a complete gasket set for under $90 or so. I would get a set of rods from another engine if you need some. Wrist pins aren't a normal replacement either - those usually last a long time. You'll probably find the bottom end is pretty sloppy - main bearings and rod bearings are usually the first go in the EA81's internally. GD

No, I don't. You want to look at Toyota's, Isuzu's, and Chevy's tho for sure. But the US Wheel 70 series is pretty cheap - like $25 each brand new at most tire shops. GD

US Wheel 70 series (white) or 75 series (chrome). Size 14x6, with 6x5.5" bolt spacing. 3.5" Center opening. Part numbers: White: 70-4660 Chrome: 75-4660 GD

Types of timing lights: Inductive, and Conductive. Inductive is powered by the magnetic field surrounding the spark plug wire (actually, by the expanding and collapsing of said field). This is why it needs the external power source (battery), in order to power the bulb itself, and the circuit that "senses" the field on the wire. Conductive just hooks in parrallel with the spark plug - one wire goes to ground, and the other connects to the plug wire. The current that fires the plug, also lights the lamp. Very simple. In fact, you could build one yourself with a couple wires, and a 12v lamp..... GD

I don't think there is really anything with a decent tread pattern smaller than a 205.... unless you go to a snow tire, but I haven't seen anything agressive enough there either. You may have to find some 14's. It is about skill, but your going to want a locker instead of that LSD, and probably some power steering. And a BIG left leg for managing the clutch. GD

Rock Crawling? You will need lower gearing, and more than a 3" lift in my opinion. Interco Makes the swamper radials in a 205/75R15 I think. GD