GeneralDisorder

Front or rear? GD

Usually the way it's done is to have a custom cable made that has a gear reduction spliced into it. It's not cheap, but better than trying to mess with a guage cluster. I personally just know what the percentage difference is, and just deal with it. GD

Sure - come on down, and Ian and myself will help you install it. You can give us each $25 for our time . He has a welder, and all the tools to cut the steel. I have access to a welder as well..... GD

I think it's your tranny - especially since you didn't have this problem prior to the swap. Inspect that diff closely. GD

If the vibration is worse turning right, then it's your left axle, and visa-versa. At least that's the way it's always worked for me. You can also dissasemble the axle's inner joint and look for wear - spalling on the bearing surfaces and what not. Likely you won't be able to tell tho, and you'll just end up guessing. Check that diff too.... GD

I can confim that a bad DOJ *can* cause serious vibration. It happened to me one time on my wagon. The car was completely stock at the time.... in the space of about 3 or 4 miles, the joint went, and I thought the car was going to fall apart from the vibration. I pulled over about 4 or 5 times to make sure I still had all four wheels. It was REALLY BAD. So bad that I was scared to drive it after this, and changed the axle immediately. The other possiblity is a bad front differential in the tranny you installed.... check for play in the stub's with the axles disconnected..... GD

You could, but I would carefully inspect the boots and see if they really need it first. Look for cracking of the rubber in the valley's. The iner boot on the pass. side usaully goes because of heat from the exaust. Yet another reason to have a good working EGR valve. Also I don't think that raising the height another 1" in the front would have caused the failures. They just tend to rip all by themselves. My Brat isn't adjusted up, and I know the boots were good about a month ago.... I just recently looked, and found that another one has torn. But I have tons of spare axles lying around with a torn boot on one side, so I'll just steal another used boot and slap it on there. Remember that the outer joints do not come apart, but the inner's do. If you have an axle with a bad inner joint, often times you can replace just the inner joint with the joint from a JY axle. The ONLY reason a front EA81 axle is really bad, is if the outer joint is failing (clicking loudly, sloppy, both!). The boots and the inner joint are easily replaced, so a good outer joint, is a good axle in my book. GD

I think my 78 wagon that I drove away for $1 probably beats it..... but only because it was *extremely* cheap. That DL is more desireable, so that somewhat evens out the comparison.... still.... ONLY $1, AND I DROVE IT AWAY. HAHAHAHAHA Only thing I really miss on the DL's is the Oil Pressure guage.... the EA81 pumps tend to want a reseal every now and then to keep the pressure on, so the guage really helps to know what's up. You can always add an aftermarket one tho. Other than that, I really like the DL's - something about the simplicity makes it attractive. GD

Actually - it's faster and cheaper to build a lift than it is the beat the hell out of the fenders and go at it with a sawzall. All you need is 10 blocks for the front made from 3.5" square tube, two bits of 3x2 angle iron for the rear EA82 coil-overs, and then the front stut tops, which is just some C channel, and a couple pieces of flat steel. Takes about 1/2 day to install, and the cost is about $50 for the materials, and another $15 for the bolts and hardware. Oh - and a bit of 1/2" ID tubing for the steering extension - about 3" of it. You just cut the steering shaft, and weld the tubing in-between the two peices. Seriously, lifts are not that hard to build. GD

What do you need it for? Seems like a lot of work to me.... GD

You're correct - you have to drop the diff to get the tank out. No big deal tho. It's only about a 20 minute job to remove the diff, and it's hanger. I've done it about 5 or 6 times now. Twice to put 4WD on my 2WD car (out and in - changed the tank too), and again to weld the diff, and then again to install a reinforced mustache bar. A couple others I have pulled at the JY because they were LSD's.... seriously - don't be afraid of it. Just use a lot of WD40 or your favorite lube, and take your time. The tank is MUCH harder than the rear drive assembly. I sugest if you have access to a lift to use it, as it will make the tank install a lot easier. There's fuel and breather lines that attach on the TOP of the tank next to the floor sheet metal. It's VERY tight under there when it's on jack-stands and it's you, the tank, and the car all wrapped up like an eggroll trying to finesse those lines onto the tank. See they are pretty short, and you have to stretch them a good deal to get them on, then you need about five arms - to hold the tank, hold the lines, hold the clamp, hold the screwdriver, and hold yourself up under there long enough to get it all tight..... not pretty but it can be done. You will agree that the rear axle is easier. hehehe GD

It's not hard to install a new boot on a used axle. Takes me about 30 minutes to swap out an axle, and boots are really easy to put on. Just use regular hose clamps from the plumbing isle of your home depot. The inner joint can be removed no problem with a pair of snap ring pliers, and a boot + grease kit is less than $10 per boot. So that's less than $20 for both your axles, and when you do replace the axles, you'll have two replacement boots you can use as spares, and also experience in removing and replaceing axles! When you do get new axles, GET NEW AXLES. Screw all the remanufactured junk out there. I will NEVER buy another remaned axle. You can get lifetime warrantee axles from Autozone brand new for $90. There's no core charge because they are not remaned. Made by a company called GCK.... you can order them right on Autozone's web site. I am very impressed with the quality of the ones I have from them. And they ARE 4WD axles - bigger joints, and thicker shaft than the 2WD shafts... GD

My Weber deisels a bit, but if you lower the idle speed, and adjust the timing up to about 10 or 12 instead of the stock 8, it should stop. Timing and idle speed make the most difference it seems. If you can't make it stop, you can buy an anti-dieseling solenoid from Redline for like $10 that plugs right into the DGV. And the Hitachi's had them, so deiseling was apparently expected when Subaru designed the engine. With the low timing settings these engines have because of emmissions requirements, it's no wonder they expected a little deiseling. Keeping the EGR valve operating properly will also reduce the cylinder temperatures, and help keep it from deiseling. Not to mention helping to keep your exhaust valves from getting burned, your AIS valves from blowing up, and your cat from getting too hot. As for cleaning the top-end. Dump water from a hose down the carb. It will effectively steam clean the top-end. About as effective as anything else, and much cheaper. GD

I bet they did on some of their rally cars - that's probably why the discs are the same. The EA82 likely inherited something that was only a race or rally part (or JDM?) for EA81's. Just speculation, but it explains why they bolt up the same, even tho EA82's have radically different rear suspensions.... GD

Yeah - that's a negative on the head bolt torque. Don't bother - you could cause more problems than you fix. GD

I think I'm going to cast my vote with Qman - I think your PP is not properly aligned on the flywheel. There is NO WAY that the flywheel itself could cause a vibration. It is centered on the crank, and no amount of play in the bolt holes would result in any vibration. If you could find a way to glue the flywheel on instead of bolt it, you still wouldn't get any vibration since the bolts are NOT what align the flywheel to the crank in the first place. Also the bolt holes are too close to the center of the flywheel to cause an out-of-balance condition. For something to vibrate enough for you to feel, it would have to be out near the edge of the flywheel - like the surface of the PP for example..... There are marks on the flywheel and the PP that should be aligned properly per the manual as Qman sugested above. I must say that I wasn't aware of them till he pointed them out to me a while back. GD

Replace it. But before you put the new one in, find a radiator shop to go over it for you (most of them do gas tanks as well...) and seal it up good. No sense putting it in there only to have it fail too.... GD

Probably why they have so many lifter ticking problems. You never hear of an EA81 hydro ticking.... GD

I have power steering on my lifted wagon. 3.5" lift in the front. The pulley is nowhere near the radiator fan..... GD

Master Cylinder, and Hill Holder. GD

You should be able to do it with an EA82 - but it's not as easy, or as cheap. You have two cam's, so you will have to have a custom set of cam's made. The SPFI pistons are already 9.5:1, so your good there. Deck the heads to bring the compression up a little more, and put on a weber and a free-flow exhaust.... should be pretty powerful. Still have those silly timing belts, and those problematic lifters tho.... why not just get an EA81??? GD

Torsen diffs don't exist as far as I know. You do know that the front diff is part of the transmission right? You might be able to rig something up in the back, but it's dobutfull for the front. Suspension is similar - you just have to experiment, or weld up a suspension from some other subaru.... GD

That's a good point too - so does that result in a hydro lifter motor that you can't remove the lifters from? GD

I wish I could tell you what is normal for an EA82. The last EA81 I resealed was pegged at startup (over 75), and after warm up will idle at 50. Down the freeway is pretty close to pegged too.... but again these are EA81 numbers, so maybe not so useful.... GD

Did you check out the pump carefully before putting it back in? Often the EA82 pumps seem to need replacing, and even a reseal doesn't give them enough pressure.... not sure on this "spring" - never heard of that one before caboobaroo brought it up. I've only ever heard of dirty lifters or bad oil pressure causing the ticking. GD