GeneralDisorder

You're correct - you have to drop the diff to get the tank out. No big deal tho. It's only about a 20 minute job to remove the diff, and it's hanger. I've done it about 5 or 6 times now. Twice to put 4WD on my 2WD car (out and in - changed the tank too), and again to weld the diff, and then again to install a reinforced mustache bar. A couple others I have pulled at the JY because they were LSD's.... seriously - don't be afraid of it. Just use a lot of WD40 or your favorite lube, and take your time. The tank is MUCH harder than the rear drive assembly. I sugest if you have access to a lift to use it, as it will make the tank install a lot easier. There's fuel and breather lines that attach on the TOP of the tank next to the floor sheet metal. It's VERY tight under there when it's on jack-stands and it's you, the tank, and the car all wrapped up like an eggroll trying to finesse those lines onto the tank. See they are pretty short, and you have to stretch them a good deal to get them on, then you need about five arms - to hold the tank, hold the lines, hold the clamp, hold the screwdriver, and hold yourself up under there long enough to get it all tight..... not pretty but it can be done. You will agree that the rear axle is easier. hehehe GD

It's not hard to install a new boot on a used axle. Takes me about 30 minutes to swap out an axle, and boots are really easy to put on. Just use regular hose clamps from the plumbing isle of your home depot. The inner joint can be removed no problem with a pair of snap ring pliers, and a boot + grease kit is less than $10 per boot. So that's less than $20 for both your axles, and when you do replace the axles, you'll have two replacement boots you can use as spares, and also experience in removing and replaceing axles! When you do get new axles, GET NEW AXLES. Screw all the remanufactured junk out there. I will NEVER buy another remaned axle. You can get lifetime warrantee axles from Autozone brand new for $90. There's no core charge because they are not remaned. Made by a company called GCK.... you can order them right on Autozone's web site. I am very impressed with the quality of the ones I have from them. And they ARE 4WD axles - bigger joints, and thicker shaft than the 2WD shafts... GD

My Weber deisels a bit, but if you lower the idle speed, and adjust the timing up to about 10 or 12 instead of the stock 8, it should stop. Timing and idle speed make the most difference it seems. If you can't make it stop, you can buy an anti-dieseling solenoid from Redline for like $10 that plugs right into the DGV. And the Hitachi's had them, so deiseling was apparently expected when Subaru designed the engine. With the low timing settings these engines have because of emmissions requirements, it's no wonder they expected a little deiseling. Keeping the EGR valve operating properly will also reduce the cylinder temperatures, and help keep it from deiseling. Not to mention helping to keep your exhaust valves from getting burned, your AIS valves from blowing up, and your cat from getting too hot. As for cleaning the top-end. Dump water from a hose down the carb. It will effectively steam clean the top-end. About as effective as anything else, and much cheaper. GD

I bet they did on some of their rally cars - that's probably why the discs are the same. The EA82 likely inherited something that was only a race or rally part (or JDM?) for EA81's. Just speculation, but it explains why they bolt up the same, even tho EA82's have radically different rear suspensions.... GD

Yeah - that's a negative on the head bolt torque. Don't bother - you could cause more problems than you fix. GD

I think I'm going to cast my vote with Qman - I think your PP is not properly aligned on the flywheel. There is NO WAY that the flywheel itself could cause a vibration. It is centered on the crank, and no amount of play in the bolt holes would result in any vibration. If you could find a way to glue the flywheel on instead of bolt it, you still wouldn't get any vibration since the bolts are NOT what align the flywheel to the crank in the first place. Also the bolt holes are too close to the center of the flywheel to cause an out-of-balance condition. For something to vibrate enough for you to feel, it would have to be out near the edge of the flywheel - like the surface of the PP for example..... There are marks on the flywheel and the PP that should be aligned properly per the manual as Qman sugested above. I must say that I wasn't aware of them till he pointed them out to me a while back. GD

Replace it. But before you put the new one in, find a radiator shop to go over it for you (most of them do gas tanks as well...) and seal it up good. No sense putting it in there only to have it fail too.... GD

Probably why they have so many lifter ticking problems. You never hear of an EA81 hydro ticking.... GD

I have power steering on my lifted wagon. 3.5" lift in the front. The pulley is nowhere near the radiator fan..... GD

Master Cylinder, and Hill Holder. GD

You should be able to do it with an EA82 - but it's not as easy, or as cheap. You have two cam's, so you will have to have a custom set of cam's made. The SPFI pistons are already 9.5:1, so your good there. Deck the heads to bring the compression up a little more, and put on a weber and a free-flow exhaust.... should be pretty powerful. Still have those silly timing belts, and those problematic lifters tho.... why not just get an EA81??? GD

Torsen diffs don't exist as far as I know. You do know that the front diff is part of the transmission right? You might be able to rig something up in the back, but it's dobutfull for the front. Suspension is similar - you just have to experiment, or weld up a suspension from some other subaru.... GD

That's a good point too - so does that result in a hydro lifter motor that you can't remove the lifters from? GD

I wish I could tell you what is normal for an EA82. The last EA81 I resealed was pegged at startup (over 75), and after warm up will idle at 50. Down the freeway is pretty close to pegged too.... but again these are EA81 numbers, so maybe not so useful.... GD

Did you check out the pump carefully before putting it back in? Often the EA82 pumps seem to need replacing, and even a reseal doesn't give them enough pressure.... not sure on this "spring" - never heard of that one before caboobaroo brought it up. I've only ever heard of dirty lifters or bad oil pressure causing the ticking. GD

Exhaust leaks can sometimes sounds like a knock. And they especially like to sound nasty under load.... GD

The high end GL-10 models had digital radios sometimes, and there *should* be a wire down there that's always on.... if not, you can always splice into the ignition wire, as it's always hot. That's what lots of stereo shops do. As for trouble installing a CD player - they are probably refering to the fact that subaru used a common ground system on the speakers. The left channel speakers use the same ground, and the right channel uses the same ground. So there's 4 speakers total, and only two ground wires. Personally, I think the stock speakers suck, and rewireing them all, and installing new speaks is highly reccomended. Installation is easily accomplished with this $15 kit you can order from any stereo shop (it's for EA82 model cars, so make sure you mention that - works just fine for EA81's too tho): GD

I think you could call SOA and ask them. My friend asked about his 93 turbo 5 speed legacy, and they were able to answer him over the phone... GD

So apparently my problem was the ERG valve. It's causeing a small vacuum leak, and since it's tee'd off the ported vacuum line to the disty, no vacuum is getting to either one! Going to replace that darn valve tommorow. GD

Ah! You are apparently using one of the flawed code charts that I have seen floating around the internet. A code 12 is a model designation - it simply tells what type of car you have. Completely normal. If my manual is correct - you have a 2WD Automatic, 49 states model??? GD

Hhhhmm - 92,000? I heard 110,000 from 77 to 87, but who knows. The wagons were certainly more popular than the Brat's, so you can imagine there were many, many more of them made. GD

It sounds like you have the test mode connectors connected. I believe this code simply means that the computer has entered "feedback" mode. The engine has reached operating temperature, and everything is working as it should. Doesn't sound like a fault code to me. Unplug those connectors and see if you get any codes after that. GD

TONS of them. 10's of thousands I would guess. DL's seem to be more rare than GL's too - soobs were so cheap that people frequently bought the high end models. GD

If your keeping it stock height, then the 5 speed is what you want for street use. In your specific case, if you have the original tranny, then the gear ratios of 3rd and 4th are different than later years. But for an off-road rig, this is OK, since the bigger tires go better with the 81/82 4 speed than the other years. A 5 speed is ok for a lifted rig too, but you won't use 5th gear much. Later 4 speeds are exceptionally bad since you can't use 4th gear hardly at all, which means you have to wind out in 3rd all the time. The fourth gear on 82's is a blast on the freeway in a stock rig - it cruises real nice - 80 MPH at 4000 RPM's. hehehe GD

You already have an electric fan! GD