GeneralDisorder

They had RX's even back in the EA81 days ya know.... so it's simply not an RX. It's not like RX's didn't exist in that year..... You could special order anything you want tho - a fully decked out GL actually could be more expensive, and have more options than a GL-10 for example. GD

ASV = Air Suction Valve. GD

Replace the pump gaskets - takes 30 minutes, and only cost's $8. This will also allow you to inspect the pump itself. If it's bad, then get another pump at the JY, and use your seal kit on that one.... The Oil pressure sending unit will screw right in from a car that has one, then you just have to wire it to a guage. Plenty of aftermarket guages availible that you could plumb in too. You also still have an idiot light for pressure - did it come on? My wagon has a digi-dash and so also does not have an OP guage. The light started comming on at idle (1000 RPM's) or lower, so I knew it was time for a gasket kit. After the gasket kit, no more idiot light at any RPM's. Of course, mine's not a turbo, so no harm came of the low OP for the short time it was this way.... GD

Looks fine to me. Same pruduct matrix as www.thepartsbin.com - which I've done business with many times. I think they have several web sites under different names, but it's all the same company. You can tell cause of the familair interface. www.drivewerks.com too Just a note - a lot of folks don't use anyting but Subaru HG's for the turbo engines, since they seem to be a point of failure often. GD

6 x 5.5" GD

Creaking is a dry bearing usually. The rear DOJ's would not make a noise like that. You can remove the rear axles if you want to make sure - only takes 5 minuets or so to remove each one (assuming they aren't rust welded on). GD

The ASV system does not rob any power, and only serves to help your emmissions. You can block it off if you want to, but there's no need. It's not dumping exhaust into your air cleaner unless it's malfunctioning. It's actually sucking air into your exhaust. And yes, it's supposed to make that loud noise - that's what the big plastic things are there to muffle. GD

You don't need to pull anything to do the clutch. You can just pull the engine forward and get in there. I've done it at the JY many times. It's tight, but with the radiator removed, it's not too bad. GD

As far as I know, the 83,84,85, and 86 Turbo fuel and ignition systems are identical. Only real difference being the EA82 core engine instead of the EA81 core. GD

It is a rubber bushing, but it's molded right into the hanger. I haven't personally seen one go bad except in situations where the hanger is bent, and the rubber stayed at a funny angle for a long time. Only way I could see to replace it is to replace the whole hanger. Likely it's just fine tho. I wouldn't worry about it. You could fill in the holes in the rubber with urethane if you wanted. GD

Don't bother with a propane torch - it's not hot enough to heat the cup quickly enough to do you any good (yes, I have tried, hehe). You want acetelene so you can get it red hot before the heat migrates to the stub - thus expanding the metal and hopefully breaking the bond of the rust. Get it red hot, and start pounding immediately. As for anti-seize, I'm sure they probably did use something, but nearly 20 years later?? probably gone. I pull one rear axle every time I go back on to pavement after off-roading (welded rear diff), and I have to reapply my anti-seize about every two trips. Of course I'm removing them and installing them a couple times a week, so rust never has a chance to really get started in my case - the anti-seize is purely for ease of installation and removal. A lubricant if you will. GD

86 RX rear diff should be a 3.7 LSD... tough to find, and when I do find em they go on ebay, since I usually get $250 or more for one. Try your local yards - you will find the same thing under some late 80's FT4WD Turbo 5 Speed wagons.... XT6's had a 3.9 LSD option as well, but those are even rarer. Here's some pics of my wagon, and my friends hatch: www.atlas4x4.com GD

Yeah - dealer only I think. Try www.thepartsbin.com GD

I have seen liquid gas come from the float bowl vent line, and that goes directly to the charcoal canister... could be the source of your problems. The canistor was a big source of vacuum leakage on my Brat, so I just disconnected it. The canistor does nothing for your emmissions while operating, so you can remove it completely, and block off all the lines. The float bowl vent I would leave open at the carb... maybe put a line on it, and run it down towards the ground like the radaitor overflow. Connect the vacuum advance directly to the carb, no gas can get in from there... see this thread for why you should NOT connect it directly to the manifold: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15423 GD

"need alignment" HAHAHAHAHA More like: "needs a frame straightener..." GD

You really need to dissasemble the governor and dress all the edges of the moving parts. When you think it's moving pretty good.... do it again. Keep filing on the edges (whetstone and a drill works well for this) till there is NO friction or stickieness at all. I'm guessing this is the cause of your problems. Shifting problems like you describe are almost always the governor. There's a walk through with pictures in the online repair manual... GD

Stock is always nice - then you don't have to worry about the engine bay matching, and the door jams etc. I will be going with the stock color on my Brat (Marina Blue), but I have to say that if I had one of the truely nasty color's like the saffron yellow, or the baby dookie brown (rant: man, the word filter spoils ALL the fun!), I might have to reconsider that approach..... At that point I think I would go outragous, and probably paint it orange or yellow. Maybe use the old 60's mopar colors. Sublime with black accents, or Hugger Orange with black.... etc. GD

You could also fix the choke on one of the ones you have. The Hitachi's aren't bad carbs really. Complex, but not bad once you get used to em. Drill out the rivets in the choke housing, and see if you can't figure out what's up inside there. There's a brass pin that keeps the housing from being adjusted, if you remove that you'll be able to adjust the choke and possibly stop your problems. However - my gut feeling is that your problem is not the choke. All 4 carbs having the same problem seems unlikely. Sounds like maybe you need to replace your fuel filter..... GD

The governor looked good eh? Did you dissasemble it and make sure that all the little parts slide smooooth? Really can't tell much just by looking. Seriously tho, those trannies are known problems. I would convert it to a manual if you have the time and resources. GD

The way I see it, you are changing the oil to remove the impurities that the *engine* has imparted to the oil by the very nature of the way engines work. Small metal particles, carbon, blow by, etc. I do not see how any change in the type of oil would cause the engine to impart fewer impurities into the oil. Especially in the case of an older engine. Thus by 2k or 3k miles the same amount of crap has been secreted by the engine into the oil, and should be removed.... regardless of what type of oil you are using. Does a cat impart fewer impurities into it's litter box if you change brands of litter?!? This is of course an over-simplification, as there are some trace quantities of junk in a non-synthetic oil (in synthetics too actually - at least acording to Castrol, who's synthetic isn't really!), but I think you get my meaning. You couldn't possibly reduce the amount of impurities by 3 fold simply by saying the oil comes with fewer impurities to begin with, And just changing to cleaner oil from the bottle is not going to reduce or eliminate blow-by or other sources of contamination. Especially in an old engine with lots and lots of sludge and shellac'd oil sitting around waiting to contaminate your 4 new quarts of don't-drop-the-soap-expensive synthetic oil. I say line your pockets, not those oil execs. GD

Compound Bow, or Cross Bow. Aim to stick it through both butt cheeks - that will get his attention. Silent too.... finish the job with an aluminium baseball bat to the head. Closed casket for sure.... that is if you don't bury him deep enough. This way no one finds any spent shell casings, or lead on his person. If you want to do it like a pro, get a silenced .22 pistol, and a small nylon bag to catch your brass. Dress in all black, or camo depending on the location. Body goes in the back of the vehicle he's trying to steal, and him, his truck, and the car all go in the local lake, or to your friend at the wrecking yard. At least you can fanisize about doing it. If you actually use any of my sugestions, I don't want to know about it...... GD

Saw a car at the JY with an amsoil box/wrapper in the back seat.... had 290k on it. EA81. Make of that what you will. I personally use chevron 10-30 or 20-50 depending on mileage. In my mind, EA series engines are not precision machinery, and will likely go 300k+ with any brand of oil if proper respect is given to amount, viscosity, and regular changes. And once I hit 300k+, I've gotten more than my money out of the engine, and a new car is in order. Unless it's something special like a Brat, then I'll carefully rebuild an engine for it. It's a bit like toothpaste really - brand doesn't matter so much as actually using it regularly (and hopefully changing it each time!). Same logic goes for filters. Another point is that the simple fact that there is anything to debate about at all speaks to the quality of todays widely availible oils. I'm not saying there's not uses for *extremely* high quality oils out there, I'm just saying that this probably isn't one of them. It's like the bottled water craze - our city water supplies are so damn clean that it's almost a crime to charge for bottled water at all. It's all a lot of smoke blown up your backside for the most part. Having said that, I probably wouldn't buy the K-mart special 5 gallon 10-30 oil. It's suspect simply because of it's cheap price.... the adage "you get what you pay for" appies somewhat as well. GD

The stock ones are pretty wimpy for any off-roading. Bugaru wiped out the one on his 1600 wagon without a lift even. Creamed it on a stump. Doesn't offer much protection, but I guess it's better than nothing. GD

It's not a CV - it's a double-offset joint - the major difference being that a CV has no movement along the shaft, and a DOJ does. You can pound all you want because it's unlikely you will break one. I like to go after them with a brass punch and a BFH. Removing the lower shock bolt should give you more than adequate room to remove the axle. It can be removed from either end first, but I usually pull the wheel side off first. It's rust welded on, and nothing but beating like hell will get it off. An acetelene torch to get it red hot, and then beating on it before the stub equalizes in temperature can work too. If that doesn't do it, dissasemble the joint itself, and remove the axle shaft leaving only the cup in place on the diff. Down inside the cup is a grease plug. Remove that plug (screwdriver and hammer), and then you will have access to the end of the stub axle. You can then lubricate, and pound on it from the inside, and if it comes down to it, you can buy the special tool to remove the bolt that holds the stub shaft in the diff, and remove the whole stub.... but it would be easier to just get another diff and axle cup from the JY if it comes to that point. Put the mustache bar back up, or you won't have room to pull the axle. It needs to be at close to it's maximum angle to be pulled.... GD

Using ATF as an engine flush has been a "backyard" mechanic trick since shortly after the beggining of time. Do an internet search and I'm sure you will come up with tons of arguments for or against it. My opinion is in line with Caleb's - it's a light detergent oil a lot like MMO or Seafoam. Using it has basically the same effect. I personally use MMO, and occasionally Seafoam for things like this, but the difference is probably negligable. GD