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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder
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Hi, Im new with an old subaru
GeneralDisorder replied to Alex C's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Too bad about the trans. If I had one, you could have it since I can't stand those things anyway. You could always convert to a manual 5 speed 2WD. Should be pretty easy, you just need the tranny, flywheel and clutch, pedal box, and associated cables and linkages. You can pull off the top of the carb, and blow out the jet passages in the bottom of the float bowl. That might help a bit. Adjusting the choke is a good idea as well. You have to drill out the two rivets on the housing, and replace them with bolts or self tapping screws. Inside the housing there is a brass pin that you need to remove on the outer edge to allow you to adjust the choke. Also knock the pin out (if it has one) that covers the idle mixture adjustment screw on the bottom of the carb, and remove the needle. Try blowing that passage out with air as well, and making sure the needle and it's seat are clean. You can do all this with the carb on the car, and while it might help, there's no guarantee that you're problems won't be just as bad or worse aftewards. These are the most common problem areas that I have found anyway. Look for vacuum leaks too - I bet you have a couple. Use spray carb cleaner to locted them with the engine running. GD -
You got it. Takes about 30 minutes. The pumps are usually in there pretty tight, so you have to pry a bit. Turn and pry on it at the same time - just don't scratch the mating surfaces of the pump and the block. Pretty simple, just watch how it comes apart so you know where everything is. Could be your front main seal needs attention too - the pumps don't usually leak, they lose pressure from bad seals, but they don't leak. The front main seal could need replacing. Have to remove the pulley for that. Not hard either tho. GD
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another accel dead
GeneralDisorder replied to rallyruss's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
You just have to wonder if it would have made a difference when the car rolled off the showroom floor. I tend to doubt it. Subaru engineers were pretty good, and if it needed a higher output ign. system then I think that would have been accomidated in the original design. Or at least addressed in a later model. I don't doubt that you noticed a "performance" increase, but I also haven't seen any hard data to prove one way or the other. I say that if it ignites the fuel, then that is enough. What people do not understand is that gasoline does NOT explode. It is a controled burn. The fuel is ignited at the top of the cylinder, and the flame front travels downward from the point of ignition. So really if the spark plug manages to ignite the fuel, it has done it's job. There is no "better" ignition of the fuel or "more complete" ignition of the fuel. This is the same reason that all the multi-electrode plugs are bunk. The spark only ever uses a single electrode anyway. If you notice a better running engine from a hotter than stock coil, it's probably because you have eliminated a partial miss-fire condition in the system. A hotter spark will ignite the fuel a higher percentage of the time, but never better, or more complete. And a stock system will ignite the fuel well over 99% of the time, so the perceived "increase" in performance is largely what researchers call the "placebo effect". You know the result you want to get, so that's what you receive. Research should not be done this way. You make a change, and then you record what has transpired. Only THEN do you attempt to draw conclusions about what effect the change may have had on the system. GD -
Hi, Im new with an old subaru
GeneralDisorder replied to Alex C's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The automatics didn't get as good a mileage as the manuals did. Still, being a 2WD (3.7 diff), you should get at least 25 I would say (my 4WD manual Brat with 3.9 diff was rated at 24-28, and I get around 27.5 usually). Your carb should be a DCP-306-14, -15 or -19. Or you might also have a carter weber single barrel, which would be a TYF-7419S. Those are the correct numbers for the 82 model year. It's most likely a -14 since it's a 2WD. I don't have vacuum routing info for that year - sorry. You should head up this way - get that tranny from Andrew (Hondasucks), and I'll help you rebuild that carb. The Kit is like $30, and it can be done in an afternoon.... GD -
another accel dead
GeneralDisorder replied to rallyruss's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
*double post* -
another accel dead
GeneralDisorder replied to rallyruss's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It depends on a lot of factors - condition and resistance of your wires, plug gap, etc. A properly tuned stock ignition system should perform just as well with either coil. Adding the high power coil is probably just masking other problems - similar to what MMO does for lifters. Subaru didn't need MMO to stop them from ticking, but lots of people use it.... same goes for spark. On the other hand, a high power coil may be cheaper than replacing all the ign. system components... GD -
Justy's make sweet rally cars. Subaru built one for bonneville that had 125 HP. It's a 1700 lb car! GD
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Hi, Im new with an old subaru
GeneralDisorder replied to Alex C's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
86 hatch would be an EA81.... are you sure it's not a 3 door? If it IS a hatch (EA81), I have a carb that I can rebuild and send to you. $100 plus shipping, and you send me your old one. It will cost me $30 just for the rebuild parts. Look on the back of the carb float bowl and find the model number on the carb. It should be a DCP-306-??. I have a -26 here that should be the same as the one you have.... GD -
Nothing will fit - the car is completetly different. It's a transverse mounted 3 cylinder...... don't bother pulling any parts. The CV's are too narrow for one thing. GD
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Yeah - I had mine mounted similar to what Qman shows - and he's right, the cable could be at a better angle. I think if you use the throttle from the "kit" above it will be at the right height so it won't groove the end of the cable. With my mounting tho, I had problems with it bending.... and I think the throttle cable bracket that was on my rig was different than that. I had the feedback carb - maybe that's why. I'm also considering cutting a section out of the cable bracket, and welding it back together so it's a bit lower to remove the angle in the cable, but still retain the bracket on the carb. As to the spring - it's never moved on me, and you can change the tension by drilling more than one hole in the clip, or by moving the clip forward or back in the grooves. I will have to find a new way when I get my snorkel adaptor tho. GD
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another accel dead
GeneralDisorder replied to rallyruss's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
MSD makes good high power coils, but as far as I can tell, a stock one should be all you need. Put it this way - if you're seeing a performance boost from a high power coil, then your old coil was probably weak, and you would have seen the same performance boost from a new stock coil. That, and just the act of properly gapping the plugs could account for what most people claim as "performance". If the spark lights the mixture then it worked, if it didn't you have a miss. It's one or the other. There is no "better" or "worse" for ignition in these cars. You either have a miss or you don't. The stock coil's last a LONG time, and I see no reason to upgrade. One should note that the resistance of the coil must match the distributor, and if it does not, damage to the coil WILL result. This may account for some of your "problems" you guys are seeing. GD -
Custom Wheels for 89 loyale
GeneralDisorder replied to merlin3's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Search on this board for stuff about Peugot alloy's, and for information on the XT6 5 lug conversion. Then you could use any 5 lug wheel such as came on legacy's and impreza's.... GD -
Yeah - I can see how that would help the angle of the cable a bit. For what it costs new, it should be part of the $350 "kit" that redline puts together for our cars. One more reason to not buy the "kit". I got two of the brackets from a local import shop that had em laying around loose. They charged me $5 for both since there was no part number associated with em. Hehe. GD
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Been fighting with how to mount your throttle cable? Me too, till I found that the redline idiots didn't bother to include the relevant linkage bits that make the job easy, and simple: It's a redline part - availible (from what I can tell) only as part of a linkage "kit". Part number 99007.116. Jam engineering lists the kit at $20.... http://www.jameng.com/products/index.phtml?section=13 GD
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Suspension question
GeneralDisorder replied to Majordad's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The XT6 clutch can be fit with some modification I believe.... GD -
Hi, Im new with an old subaru
GeneralDisorder replied to Alex C's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Glad to hear that you have the correct fluids. Having never owned an auto myself, I mistakenly thought they didn't have sticks for the hydraulic fluid. Wonder where I got that from.... huh. Don't be scared of the hitachi. It's no worse than any other carb, and the bad reputation it has is not deserved. I could rebuild it for you, but I'm afraid it would cost more than the $20 your looking to spend. Probably more like $100 plus shipping. Swapping carbs might be a cheaper option, but finding one for your year could be tricky. All Hitachi's aren't the same, and you need the proper one in order for it to hook up right with your vacuum lines. Other years *may* work - with slight modifications to your vacuum routing, and possibly not so slight modifications, but it requires that you have an intimate knowledge of the vacuum system, and understand what each line is for and how it should be hooked up. Even tho I know the system quite well I find that I need to refer to the FSM for the year that I'm putting the carb on, and the year the carb came off in order to succesfully restore the carb to proper operating condition. Bad gas mileage (less than 20) is the least you can hope for if it's done incorrectly. I would say that improper routing, bad vacuum components, and bad choke adjustment is the cause of most people's problems with the Hitachi, which isn't a bad carb at all once you get past it's scary looks, and complex vacuum system. GD -
Hi, Im new with an old subaru
GeneralDisorder replied to Alex C's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Well - I say rebuild your carb yourself - probably fix a LOT of your problems in that respect. The 2000 RPM idle is probably your choke mechanism But.... sorry to say that your trans is probably shot. Sounds like the diff is going south. The EA series autmatics are not known for reliability over 200k miles. Somtimes much less than that. You should know that your trans has two types of fluid - the front differential uses plain old 90 weight gear oil.... also if your checking the fluid, how are you doing it? The only way to check the "red" fluid in an automatic is to pull the plug on the side of the trans - the dip stick goes to the diff, and if that's red........ well you get the idea. BAD TIMES. GD -
Buy your T-stat from the dealer - same goes for your cap. Aftermarket can vary wildly. As for an overflow - you don't need one. A properly operating cooling system should not require an overflow tank. It's only there in case you DO overheat. GD
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Probably be easier to do scissor doors for the reason Trog just mentioned.... still a ton of work tho. GD
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Most important thing is to remove the jets (under the float bowl), and make sure there is nothing in the float bowl itself to mess up the spray pattern of the jets. As you have noticed, gunk likes to sit right in that spot. I'm really at a loss as to why Hitachi didn't put a screen of some sort down there to catch at least the big stuff. GD
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Sure - but you have more "padding" than I do . The tranny isn't so heavy, but it has lots of sharp edges that dig into my ribs - not good. Having the back end supported by a rope helps to get it on your chest. And having someone up above to tell you what's going on with that input shaft is good too. As for tipping the engine backwards - on the EA81's you can just adjust the pitching stopper backwards.... and on the EA82's Subaru makes a special "adjustable" pitching stopper just for transmission installation.... GD
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leaky things in 79 brat
GeneralDisorder replied to Zefy's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Under the alternator on the block - as accurate a description of the water pump as I have ever seen. You sure it wasn't jsut spraying from the overflow line.... try a new radiator cap if that's the case. GD -
Is the engine page completely accurate???
GeneralDisorder replied to Kostamojen's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The EA81 hydro lifters do not have the ticking problems that are common to the EA82's.... and yes the hydro engines are rated higher on the HP scale - I believe the numbers were around 72 for the solid lifter engine, and 80 for the hydro lifter block. The whole valve train on the hydro engine is different - cam, lifters, push rods, rocker assembly... and the valves are physically bigger. Also the block itself is different in that you can remove the lifters from below on a hydro engine, but the casting on a solid block will not allow this - so while you can put the hydro lifter valve train into a solid block, you will render the lifters unserviceable by doing so. For comparison the Dual carb EA81 engine that came in the JDM RX was 110 HP. GD -
Ditto - next time just rock the engine forward with the radiator removed - no need to remove either one actually. Put a rope around the output shaft, run that up through the shifter hole, and lift the rear end of the tranny up then slam the rope in the door to hold it up like that. Then get yourself under the tranny (feet towards the front of the car), and have a friend lift up the front of the tranny so you can get under it - then just bench it into place. Or get a tranny jack - they are only like $50 from Harbor Frieght. GD
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Biggest performance mod you can do is dump the automatic. They rob somewhere around 75% of your power durring acceleration. It will feel like a new car with a 5 speed, and a tune-up. My Brat only has 80 HP and a 4 speed, but now that I have it in good tune it will smoke tires on demand, chirp em into 2nd, and do 90 on the freeway flat out (3.9 gears and the 4 speed suck for high end). Short of rebuilding your engine with different cams and decked heads, etc, I think your just SOL for much over 100 HP. Open up the intake, open the exhaust, make sure the SPFI is all in top form..... GD