GeneralDisorder

Seems excessive - you should find someone here on the board that has a set. Heck - I could pull you a set at the JY for probably $60 or so.... and some for my time, etc. Even after shipping you probably wouldn't be much over $100 into em. GD

Why shouldn't you flip it over? I've flipped over a number of carbs - never had a problem..... GD

They switched to vented rotors after 7/83, so if your car has a build date of 7/83 or newer, then it will have vented rotors.... GD

Awesome! I'm in for something - I'll bet bugaru will be too.... Just pick a date - likely if it's a week or more out, I can swing it somehow. Gd

Nope - that's a DFEV, or as it's known in the Ford world, a Holley 5200. It will still work - get a different air filter - and tell the "guy" at the shop he's a tard. GD

I vote for a failed Air Suction Valve. Be careful, as you have likely sucked molten plastic into the carb - this coule explain the slight sluggishness that you feel. Sometimes the plastic can really mess stuff up, and others it just gets stuck in the air box, or in the top of the carb. I had a peice of plastic stick my choke open, and I couldn't start it because of this. The plastic "silencers" attached to the ASV melt on the bottom (hard to see unless you remove them for a look), and without the silencer things get VERY loud..... GD

Yeah - And I think about 4k is where she would top out - 4100 maybe. Hard to tell exactly with the digi-tach. I had not realized that the 2WD was a 3.7, but that does makes sense now that I think on it. Sucker really moves. Thanks for the clarification on that CIS... Also - the reason my wagon is still fast with the 28's is that I'm using an 82 4 speed D/R. It's got lower 3rd and 4th gears.... GD

The relay is located near the top of the lefthand strut The pressure switch is located on the air tank, which is near the compressor - in the lefthand wheel well.... GD

2WD 5 speed, EA81 with the feedback carb. All stock. I SWEAR I hit 110. Actually I think it was more like 112, but who's counting. I had to see my digi-dash go over 100. Now with the 28's of course I can't come even close to that, but I have seen my dash hit 80, which works out to a little over 95 MPH - and that's with 28" mudders! I've had my Brat up to well over 95 (high as the guage reads) on the flat and level. It's got the standard hitachi, but a little more peppy hydro lifter EA81. GD

You need to jumper the "air charge solenoid" terminal to ground at the ECU. You'll have to check the FSM to determine the wire color.... Back probe the connector - do not disconnect it. When you turn on the ignition, the system should start to raise the struts. If it doesn't then you have bad solenoids, or a bad pressure switch. You can jumper the pressure switch to bypass it - if the compressor runs, then the switch is bad. If it still doesn't run, then bypass the compressor relay. GD

Strut's at yards around here are only about $15 each - that would be $60 to convert your whole car to a non-air setup.... that's not much. GD

All the aftermarket oil filters I have seen are about twice as big as the Subaru brand filters anyway.... so what's the point? EA81T's had oil coolers.... you might look into that. GD

Well - when the wagon was a 2WD, I got 32 MPG on a 600 mile trip doing about 80 most of the way. And I do use the seccondaries quite a bit. I would guess it could possibly do better if you kept your foot out of it. Now with the 28" mudders it gets about 17 MPG - but that's still better than a Hitachi gets with 28" tires, and the low end torque with the 32mm primary is awesome. There's no change in the high end from what I can see - I could do 110 with the Hitachi, and about the same with the Weber. I have seen Hitachi's get upwards of 28 - 30 also, but never as good as my Weber got when it had small tires on it. The Weber's also run smoother, are easier to work on, and less complicated too... And they are even bigger than an EA82 Hitachi, which if memory serves is a 28/32. EA81 Hitachi's are 26/30 Oh - and I should mention that the SPFI system from an EA82 will bolt right onto an EA81. You need to wire up the computer, and change the disty drive gear on an EA82 disty for it all to work, but this would be a cool mod too.... GD

You can run it, but I doubt you will have any serious effeciency gains - the low end torque will be a little better since the primary is bigger, but that's about it. You also have to modify the intake to fit - I'm not sure exactly where, but it will need some grinding I think. Others on this board who have done this will probably chime in. As for FI heads for an EA81, the only FI EA81 was the turbo (it was MPFI), and this has injector bosses right on the heads. Not to mention they are increddibly rare. If you want better heads, then get some from a hydro lifter EA81 - they have bigger vlaves, and the engines are rated at about 7 more HP because of it. 85 and up EA81's are all hydro. 83 and 84 Automatics are too... GD

Hehe - thanks for the plug :-p Yeah - I have done the 2WD to 4WD, but on and EA81, so it's going to be different for you. From what I have *heard*, the EA82's is easier in several ways. For one the tranny tunnel doesn't seem to be an issue like it can be on the EA81, and the 4WD shift linkage doesn't need the special little plate that's welded to the tunnel like the EA81 2WD tunnel does. Also you don't have to change your gas tank, as all the EA82 tanks have the dimple for the diff. Basically you need the trans, driveline, rear end, and possibly some of the exhaust. If you have the parts lying around, it probably would be worth it to do in your case since you got the car for nothing. GD

Exhaust leaks can sound like pinging.... just thought I would toss that out there. Doesn't sound like that's your problem tho, since it goes away if you lay into the gas. Generally and exhaust leak will get louder when you do that. GD

I got 32 MPG with a brand new Weber - I would say that those who claim less have not got them properly adjusted, or are using used Weber's that aren't quite perfect. Since mine was brand new, and (I think) properly adjusted, I got some damn good mileage from it with the 175's I had on the car at the time. Of course now with the 28" mudders I get about 17.... The Hitachi's aren't bad if you rebuild them carefully - but the best I've seen one get is 30 consistently - and that's with the Cali emmissions stuff - computer controlled feedback system. I doubt that a new Hitachi, against a new Weber would win. The problem is the complicated design of the Hitachi. If you like tho, I could take a look at it for you. I'm here in West Linn - about 15 minutes from Portland..... And Zap is right - you should check the timing. Variations in the height of the carb and the mixture can affect it - plus the timing is supposed to be set at a specific RPM - and if your not idleing correctly, then likely it needs checking at least. GD

That seems like a pretty good deal considering that used body panels from a JY are like $25 each plus core.... then there's your time to go there and cut them off... GD

To all who don't know - this is NOT a DGV carb. It's a DFV carb, which is basically a mirror image of the DGV, with a different air cleaner opening. Even the rebuild kits are the same part number. You can get these carbs off of many early model Ford cars and trucks - like early 70's curriors and pinto's and such. I've been thinking about doing this for a while, since the adaptor plate would fit the same, and the choke being on the other side is actually a good thing for you EA82 guys...... GD

Yeah.... but that was a Gen 1..... did they make a 2WD MV Gen 2? GD

Yeah - that 34mm thin wall socket is holding me up.... any literature you could provide me would be great! I've got it half apart on the floor of my garage right now. Too bad I didn't know - I was in Tillamook today oddly enough. GD

Yes - that would be why I said OLD bearing. If I'm taking it out, then I certainly WILL NOT be reusing it. Like I said before, the punch is the RECOMENDED method of removing the bearings according to the FSM. If you have issue with that, then call SOA. Not only that, but I fail to see any other method of removing them that will not result in pounding or pressing on the inner race. This is of course with my limited experience of EA81's.... I don't mess with EA82's, so I don't know about them. GD

IF you could find someone willing to press them in (unlikely), they wouldn't have the correct press fittings anyway. And any shop will just pound them in anyway, so I fail to see how this is a "backyarding" method of installation. This is how Mudrat79 installs them, and many here on the board consider him to be a very knowledgable Subaru mechanic... GD

How many times do we have to say you don't need a press? Jeez. The outside one comes out toward the outside, and the inside one comes out towards the inside. If you can lay hands on a brass punch, you'll be fine (about $1 from harbor frieght). You just pound the old bearings out with the punch, using it at an angle from the outside of the hub - the spacer moves up and down, allowing you to use the punch on the inner race of the old bearing. It literally takes less time to remove and install the bearings than it does to pack them by hand. As for bearing packing, I have two methods - usually I just do it by hand, but if I'm lazy or don't want to get dirty, I'll break out the pneumatic grease gun and a grease needle - just use the needle to fill up the "holes" in the bearings. Works great. I personally don't like bearing packers - they make a mess, and then you have to store them somewhere where they won't get dirty, etc. At least I can throw away rubber gloves.... GD

You wax eloquently about finesse, but that rock looks easily avoidable.... was there a time when you too were learning?? J/K GD