GeneralDisorder

Ok - I've rebuilt the Hitachi on my Brat - it's a DCP306-26. It runs AWESOME most of the time. Idles right around 700-750 RPM's when warm, and revs right up with no flat spots or anything. However, when I take a sharp turn, or a very fast take off, it will start to run like crap. It will idle, but slower than normal, and when you try to give it more gas, it just dies, it will run over 3000 RPM's or so when it's doing this, but nothing in-between that, and idle (just dies). I suspect it could be a sticking power valve piston. What do you guys think? It will run like this till you shut it off and let it sit anywhere from a few minutes, to a few hours (overnight one time). After you let it sit a while, it will start up as if nothing happened, and drive away just fine. I have checked the float bowl vent - it is functioning normally. I've disconnected most of the vacuum lines that are not needed and plugged them off. I've checked very carefully for vac leaks all around the carb with spray carb cleaner, and since it idles very nice, I'm pretty sure there are none. And no - the answer is not to put on a weber. I want this stupid thing to work. It's a matter of priciple. The Hitachi is not a bad carb, and this is a learning experience for me. I really want to know how to rebuild them properly, since I have a number of the things sitting around here. Free is a very good reason! GD

Like I said - unless your radiator is bad, I wouldn't replace it. Is it full of nasty fuid? corroded beyond use? Plugged up? If not, then replacing it will only band-aid a problem that is elsewhere. Have you bothered to replace the t-stat, radiator cap, and back flush the system? Fill with good clean 25/75 mix, and test it? Out here on the left coast, bad radiators aren't very common. I've got an EA81 car around here somewhere with 325k on it, and it's fine. Make sure the fins are straight, and not all full of dirt too..... GD

For EA81's, you don't need a 2-row radiator. The stock radiator is more than enough, and the single fan is too. Your radiator is probably in need of a good going-over. I've had them gone over before, and with a new t-stat, and NO electric fan at all, I could let it sit and idle in the garage without it overheating at all. GD

The second dash kit pictured will fit an EA81. If you look in the image gallery, there's pics of that one in my 84 wagon.... GD

How's it look on the ends? GD

Yes - I can say with certainty that the 82 bell-housing will accept the 225mm 83+ 4WD clutch. The 200mm flywheel is the same size, just with a 25mm smaller opening for the clutch disc and PP. BTW - you DO NOT want the 200mm clutch with big tires and a lift. I found this out the hard way. It slips VERY bad. The 225mm slips too, but is much better. GD

Depends on which flywheel you have. They could have used either one. You'll have to figure out if you have the EA81 or the EA82 flywheel. In order to fit the EA82 flywheel, the bell-housing must be ground slightly. You should be able to tell. You need to use the EA81 flywheel with the 4 speed, but you can use either one with the 5 speed. You might be able to use either one with the 4 speed, but I'm not sure on that. I've not heard of anyone putting the EA82 flywheel and clutch on the EA81 engine and tranny. GD

The RX tranny has a 1.2:1 low range.... and depending on if it has a diff lock or not, could be a Full-Time 4WD tranny... in which case it has a center diff package, and probably will be a bit different inside compared to the wagon tranny. The wagon tranny should be like 1.56:1 low range already - or something along those lines. You'll just have to rip into them to see what is interchangeable and what isn't..... GD

A lot of EA82T's, and even some EA81T's came with CC. I have an 85 wagon right now with CC. Works great I might add. GD

You mean 3rd gen right? 2nd gen would be EA81 cars, and Brat's... GD

pipe wrench GD

My 85 does that too. I know exactly what you mean. The reason only Brat owners can hear them is the location of our pumps is right behind the driver door - under the car. My guess is that a lot of the older pumps make this noise. Ed - yours is under the hood - different pump too. GD

Hehe - hey moose - I have a silver Gen 2, and a silver Gen 3..... GD

"cali" emmissions (that's not to say that the others didn't have any emmissions equipment, cause they do), went back to AT LEAST 82, because I have an example of an 82 Brat that had the computer feedback controlled C/W 1 barrel on it. I reality, most of the Gen 2 cars and Brats have emmissions equipment - cat's and AIS's were standard even on cars without the feedback carb. The only gray area years are 80 and 81..... maybe 82. Those years are kinda sketchy for me - some may have had the stuff, other maybe not. GD

If I'm not mistaken, that is a DCP306-26. GD

Your cable's probably worn out - they get tight like that. It should be very easy to push with a stock clutch and PP. GD

Yeah - that would be me It's been corrected. There was a mixup with the paperwork at DMV down here. They got the VIN number wrong by one digit - it's supposed to be a JF2, but was written down as JFZ, so something in their computer system didn't click. I got pulled over for not having a rear license plate light, and when they ran the VIN it came back as not owned by me..... and well, you get the idea. I'm quite pissed about the whole situation, but now everything should be right again. I got it out of impound, and I'll be talking to the judge next month - should be able to get the charges dropped. Eric - didn't you release ownership of the vehicle in WA? I'm surprised it got back to you at all.. Weird. At any rate - please disregard! GD

Damn - that poor thing looks like hammered *****. If you part it I want some stuff.... and even if you don't, it looks like we could make a deal..... want to part with that rear seat bracket? GD

Just weird seeing a DL dash and wheel in a Brat. Not many DL's around for sure - not at all. GD

I wouldn't run the bowl vent into the intake manifold - I would run it into the air filter housing. But that's just me. I wouldn't do it because I don't like the idea of having a vacuum port open to the inside of the float bowl. Two reasons - one, doing that could actually introduce a vacuum leak depending on the internal construction of the carb, and two that is not supposed to be a pressurized system - adding vacuum will negatively pressurize the float bowl, and that could potentially change the float level, or suck gas into the vent line durring a hard turn. The vac lines that run into the hard lines under the manifold are for the vacuum advance on the disty, and the EGR valve. You can run these lines directly instead of through the hard lines - the hard lines tend to go to other places you don't need them too, and usually mess things up with potential leaks and such. I generally just run new lines to the disty and the EGR directly from the carb. Tends to make trouble shooting easier. GD

All Brat's/Brumby's should be EA81's. That's a 1.8L overhead valve engine. Only the Loyale line got the EA82 engines. The purge hose is opened by a thermo-vacuum valve when the engine reaches operating temperature in order to pull the evaporated gasses from the cannistor to be burnt. Just plug this port on the carb, remove the lines, and the cannistor. This line purges all the vent lines - it burns the evap gasses from the float bowl, the front fuel filter, and the gas tank.... so all the vent lines from each of these items should be removed. The tank and the float bowl need to be vented - usually into the air filter, or just left open, and the fuel filter vent (known as a vapor seperator) can just be plugged, or replace the filter with a normal aftermarket style filter.... that's what I do. I'm not sure what the "vacuum pipe" is - but there is a fuel bowl vent line.... usually on top of the carb near the fuel inlet somewhere. This line needs to be left in place for the carb float bowl to properly vent gasses and releive any pressure that might build up due to same. GD

EA82? So you installed this engine I take it? Also - do you have a feedback carb or a regular carb? ei - is there a computer under the driver side dash.... if so I would not touch anything. Any way - yes, definately leave the PCV system. It's not emmissions related anyway. It's there to release blow-by gasses from the crankcase so they do not dilute the engine oil. Removeing it therefore would be BAD. You can remove the evap canister - just make sure you run the float bowl vent tube somewhere.... into the air filter box would be good. You can leave the gas tank vent line open to the air. The only other system you have that is "emmissions" related is the AIS or Air Injection System. This *can* be removed, but it's a pain, and it's easier to just disable it. The AIS valves are located.... well I'm not sure where they would be on an EA82, but on an EA81 you can simply put a quarter (US funds ) in the pipe fitting leading from the head to block off the flow of air into the exhaust. That will effectively disable them. Also prevents them from failing and squirting molten plastic into your carb.... GD

Why not just convert to the internal regulated type, and thus kill both birds? Can't be that hard to figure out the wireing for it.... GD

Headgaskets, since they are compression gaskets, and are sealing against very high combustion temperatures should always be installed dry. Anything used on the gasket could cause a hot spot, and premature failure of the gasket. GD

There's almost no telling what it could be - with the modifications you listed, no one here will be able to accurately tell you anything about your vehicle. I would classify your car as "heavily modified" being that it is lifted, with a completely different engine than stock. Find the person who built it, and ask them.... GD