GeneralDisorder

Yes GD

All the sending units are different - even the fuel level sending unit. You will need a donor car with all those parts. The wireing is completely different too - so you may want to swap wireing harnesses. The 83/84 digi's are notoriously bad juju, so I would stay away from them at all costs. They tend to die if you even look at them cross-eyed. Very naughty little guys. Sensitive to voltage that hasn't first been cleansed by the pope. But hey - it's your car. GD

They must be struts - otherwise, you don't have anything to hold the car up. Just a shock will fully compress under the load of the vehicle, and be VERY dangerous to drive - not to mention look very weird. GD

Totally - you should come up here sometime Sean. One thing you have to understand is how many people look, and wave at our rigs when we are around town. Hard to remember everyone. I do take more notice of the people in soobs tho.... but it's getting so that I don't notice the attention as much. I did notice the truck with two women in it that held a hand written note up to the window that read "Your Cute!" as I was rolling down the freeway.....:cool: GD

Yeah - I wondered the same. Rods are going to cost you. And I haven't seen a complete gasket set for under $90 or so. I would get a set of rods from another engine if you need some. Wrist pins aren't a normal replacement either - those usually last a long time. You'll probably find the bottom end is pretty sloppy - main bearings and rod bearings are usually the first go in the EA81's internally. GD

No, I don't. You want to look at Toyota's, Isuzu's, and Chevy's tho for sure. But the US Wheel 70 series is pretty cheap - like $25 each brand new at most tire shops. GD

US Wheel 70 series (white) or 75 series (chrome). Size 14x6, with 6x5.5" bolt spacing. 3.5" Center opening. Part numbers: White: 70-4660 Chrome: 75-4660 GD

Types of timing lights: Inductive, and Conductive. Inductive is powered by the magnetic field surrounding the spark plug wire (actually, by the expanding and collapsing of said field). This is why it needs the external power source (battery), in order to power the bulb itself, and the circuit that "senses" the field on the wire. Conductive just hooks in parrallel with the spark plug - one wire goes to ground, and the other connects to the plug wire. The current that fires the plug, also lights the lamp. Very simple. In fact, you could build one yourself with a couple wires, and a 12v lamp..... GD

I don't think there is really anything with a decent tread pattern smaller than a 205.... unless you go to a snow tire, but I haven't seen anything agressive enough there either. You may have to find some 14's. It is about skill, but your going to want a locker instead of that LSD, and probably some power steering. And a BIG left leg for managing the clutch. GD

Rock Crawling? You will need lower gearing, and more than a 3" lift in my opinion. Interco Makes the swamper radials in a 205/75R15 I think. GD

You should talk to Bugaru - he has a bug that *had* an EA81. Now that engine is in the hatch. Yeah - I do like to go fast down the trails - the wagon does alright. It's pretty easy to get the rear end to slide out on gravel and such with the lincoln locker. And the power steering is very nice in all conditions. I think I'm about to eat another idler pulley bearing tho. Those damn idler pully's for the PS are down close the bottom of the car, and it's always running right in the muck zone. GD

Not sure exactly what your asking - the seats are secured to the metal bracket with normal bolts. The bracket is welded into the bed - to remove it, you will have to grind it out. GD

If it wasn't making noise, then it could just be the oil pump seals. They get brittle and sometimes even crack. You could try just a re-seal of the pump. The seal kit is cheap - like $8 or something. The whole pump isn't all that expensive either. You could even get one from a JY, and try that. Taking it apart to do the re-seal will tell you what sort of shape it's in, and then you will have the seals for a JY one if you need to go that route. GD

Myself, and Bugaru went out for some fun yesterday, and it got really nasty. Between us, I think we had to make about 8 recovery's. Not all were from really being stuck tho. A tree knot reached out and took the valve stem right out of Ian's rim, and thus a very flat tire resulted. We subsequently had to winch him up over a tree-root that his open diff (a problem which will be corrected shortly - perhaps today) wouldn't climb. I certainly got the most mud for the day, and took the prize for being stuck in the worst possible spots. The first really ugly one I tried to blast through some really thick mud, and instantly sunk up to the doors. The suction of the mud on the underbody of the rig, was too much, and I was stuck. Decided to have Ian pull me out forward so I could proceed through the next hole that was deeper than it looked, but just water this time. Sunk up past the headlights and the engine died. Ingested a good quanitity of water both in the engine, and in the cab. Really nasty mess, but since I removed the carpet after last time, it was no big deal to just pull the plugs on the floor and drain it out. I got stuck again further down the trail when I spun sideways on a log, and ended up with my front end against a shear wall of dirt, and my back tires inches away from a hole that NOTHING ever went into, and came out of under it's own power. Must have been at least 9 or 10 feet deep, and pretty snotty. It was a litteral soob swallowing abyss. Got back straight again by pressing the nose of the car against the cliff, and breaking loose all 4 tires (dropped the clutch) with Ian pulling on the rear bumper with the hatch. Worked great. With the loss of traction on the rear wheels, it just spun around like it was greased. I really wish we had got that on tape, but had run out of tape at that point. Anyway - check out the pictures, and the videos! Pictures: http://www.atlas4x4.com/gallery_detail.asp?album_id=4 Video: http://www.atlas4x4.com/video.asp?gallery_id=1 No breakage this time, except Ian's tire. But that's just a valve stem, and Les Shwab will fix for free. This is why we carry a spare! GD

Use a hose clamp - the 3" ones you find in the dryer vent section at home depot work great. You can also probably source some thin ones for a pre 69' VW swing axle CV boot - they used hose clamps originally. I used the $0.79 hose clamp from home depot on my rear axle on the lifted wagon, and after off-roading HARD all day, it shows no signs of loosening, or slipping. I wanted to find some VW ones since they are like 1/4" wide like the regular bands, but I couldn't located them on short notice, and after looking at the aftermaket VW boot kits and seeing that they use regular 1/2" wide hose clamps, I figured it couldn't hurt to try. With the welded rear diff, I've already blown up two rear axle outer cup's, so the hose clamp is really nice. Makes them easily serviceable on the trail. GD

The snap-on tool works - do a search on the board, it's on here somewhere. GD

Rust welded on. IF you do get it off, use some anti-seize on the splines when you put it back. Heat with an acetelene torch, and then dunk it cold water - that might break it loose. Dissasemble the joint, and knock the plug out of the bottom of the cup, then you can get to the stub bolt on the diff, and remove the whole stub.... You need the special stub bolt tool tho.... Last resort - cut it off with a die grinder. GD

Everyone makes mistakes - thankfully hubs are cheap at the JY. GD

Those are 6 lug chevy trailer rims (US Wheels 70 series). They do stick out a bit farther (about 1.5 - 2" past the fenders), but that's exactly what I wanted. Gives me a wider stance to offset the extra height I gained with the 28's. And yes, I did drill them. Took me about 45 minutes to do all five with a hand drill. I beveled the edges of the holes with a dremel. No vibration, and still perfectly balanced - at least to the 95 MPH I've had it up to..... if you don't like the extra holes, you can either do the 6 lug conversion, or weld them up and paint over em. This gives a better idea of the offset: GD

Aluminium baseball bat to the head. He won't get up..... probably ever. Might even have to be a closed casket. GD

Unless they are VERY cheap, why bother? These (15's) are $25 each from Les Shwab..... GD

I seem to recall someone saying that the pressure regulator was 1:1, in other words, it really doesn't do anything..... I would first try just eliminating it. Extraneous parts are not unheard of on Subaru's. GD

Obviously, he's not so new that he didn't know the 6 lug conversion exists. And therefore he must also know there are tons of posts that go on at great length on how to do it, and the pro's/con's. It was thus apparent that he needed to be made aware of the search function. Besides that, the conversion is so simple that a monkey with a drill could probably do it. One only has to LOOK at the car with a wheel off, to see what has to be done. This isn't rocket science. GD

Your clicking sure sounds a lot like dirty hydrualic lifters to me, but your explanation of the on/off nature of the problem when letting up on the gas pedal also sounds alot like a bad front axle.... you may have several unrelated problems. The smoke sounds like your automatic tranny vacuum modulator is bad.... taking the corner hard tilts the fluid enough to get sucked into the modulator valve. Is the smoke white or black or blue? White would indicate a bad modulator valve. They are only about $30 new. Check your tranny fluid too, as it may have gone down some due to the burning. Run some 20w50 oil, and half a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and see if that helps the clicking. If it is the lifters, it's nothing to worry about - they will click for tens of thousands of miles with no ill effect. Just annoying. If it's an axle that's clicking, then you should replace that axle. Look at the boots and check to see if any are torn open. GD

Yes - with sometimes a LOT of work. Other times nearly none. Like transmissions are the SAME. But 2WD vs. 4WD are not - neither are Auto's. The difference is in the floorpan sheetmetal. Going from 2WD to 4WD is sometimes difficult....... GD