GeneralDisorder

I agree with you CIS - I was previously refering to Setright's comment on the difference between 4WD, and AWD. I just sort of tossed in the center diff thing cause it struck me as a possible difference between the FT4WD and the AWD. I think the difference is just a different center diff in the case of the locker / non-locker tranny's, and that either could have or not have one. So it seems that FT4WD and AWD are indeed basically the same. One thing - a locker in the center diff, will make the tranny either 4WD (when locked) or AWD when unlocked. A simple 4WD tranny actaully disengages the rear wheels, and has NO center diff whatsoever - you cannot lock what isn't there. AWD and FT4WD cannot be put into 2WD mode (at least not within reach of the driver), has a center diff which may or may not have a locker in it. 4WD is either 2WD, or 4WD (and in the case of D/R, 4WD hi, and 4WD lo), has NO center diff, and acts just like an AWD tranny with the center diff lock ON when in 4WD mode. That is how I understand it anyway. GD

Yeah - from what I understand, the Gen 3's all have the same gas tank, and the tranny tunnel just has bits that bolt in and out for different tranny's. Subaru kept improving on their use of generic parts up through the EA82's. From what I've seen and understand, Gen 1's would be nearly impossible to convert to 4WD without major frame modifications and a lift, Gen 2's (EA81's) are difficult, but not impossible to do, as the frame is basically the same - a few of us have done it. Gen 3's (EA82's) are pretty easy from what I've seen, and it's been done to quite a few on the board here recently. GD

Couple if things - #1 The 4WD conversion is not a simple project. You will need more parts than you think, and the tranny will not fit till you have lifted the car. It's not just the rear end and driveline you need. You need the gastank from a 4WD hatch (must be a hatch tank), you need the complete exhoust from a 4WD hatch (could go custom here). You need a lot of little peices. The 4WD lever mount doesn't exist, so needs to be cut from another car and welded in. There's a HUGE laundry list of parts that you end up needing - a whole parts car would be wise. But then you have to ask yourself why you are not just driving the parts car??!? #2 If you do it, then be aware that the PK kit may have some fitement issues that need addressing, as this was a 2WD, and as such is actually quite different in a lot of ways. In the case of my car, the shifter was a real pain - I didn't do a PK kit, but never the less, be aware of this, and probably have a one-on-one chat with PK about what issues you may encounter. Just my opinion - being that I'm one of the few people on this board that has done this conversion on an EA81, and drive that rig on an almost daily basis, I can tell you that I will NEVER do it again. There are too many 4WD cars out there for cheap, and there's really no reason to bother converting a car unless it is something *very* special, or you already have all the needed parts lying around or soemthing. Feel free to ask me any questions about the full conversion. I think I have a list of every part you need around here somewhere. I know the list had at least 30 items on it or so..... GD

I just put an 81 GL Brat tranny into my friends 82 Brat, and I didn't notice any differences in the tranny casing. Basically, the only difference I could find was the 4WD lever mechanism was turned 90 degrees - but that was easily fixed, as it's threaded - just had to turn it with a wrench. GD

Not entirely true. FT4WD, and AWD both have center differentials to allow the system not to bind up. The FT4WD's have a diff-lock switch (at least some do), allowing you to lock the center diff - making it very similar to a regular 4WD. The AWD's I don't believe have the center diff lock... GD

There is plenty of need to downshift to first while moving - at least from a RallyX perspective. Lots of times 1st is the right gear, and I don't think I'll be stopping to get into it either..... GD

Tell that to the 125 HP Justy that holds the 1.0L class record at bonneville. From 1988!! GD

The hill holder has nothing to do with the parking brake. It's entirely hydraulic. It also doesn't work on the front wheels. IIRC, it works on one front and one back wheel.... or maybe just one wheel period. It was actually invented and first used by studebaker waaaaay back in the day. GD

There's no difference in the drivetrain of a wagon and a hatch. For the years you are looking for, they are both EA81, and with the exception of auto trans versions (83 and 84 Auto's had hydro lifters), all are 73 HP. The hydro engines are like 80 HP. Your hatch weighs a bit less, and also has a smaller gas tank. If you have $3000 to spend, and are looking for a reliable car, then get a legacy. The EA81's are indeed reliable, but they are all nearly 20 years old at this point, and repairs are inevitable. I own two EA81 vehicles in Oregon, niether of which have ANY rust, and my Brat has 130k, and my wagon 162k. Both of them have had a LOT of maitenence to keep them in top shape. It's not that they have a lot of miles, or that they weren't cared for - my wagon was VERY well cared for in fact. It's the age. The rubber is starting to go all over the place - the windsheilds both leak if you park them at certain angles. The tranny mounts are shot - the engine mounts will follow soon. Both of them needed the distributor rebushed. I have done ALL the axles multiple times on both rigs. The carbs didn't run right at all - The wagon has a Weber now, and the Brat a reubuilt Hitachi. I'm not saying not to buy one - I LOVE them myself. I'm just saying don't expect a no maintenence daily driver from them. The people you are talking to here are largely mechanics on the side that work on their own rigs. I would never reccomend an EA81 to anyone looking for a daily - unless you buy more than one, and have all of them ready to go all the time. Safety in numbers so to speak. And expect to spend quite a few hours with them getting them into shape. You'll have to install a decent stereo too - you can't hardly hear the stock ones at freeway speeds. GD

You might find a set of adjustable rear struts. Likely they replaced them with non-adjustable's. That might get you a bit lower. I'm not totally sure tho - maybe someone else will know for sure. GD

I usually lift the engine up. On EA81's anyway, you pretty much have to. Gives you a chance to inspect other stuff too. GD

If I have earned one, I'll certainly be in as well. GD

The cross-member and steering are connected to the frame rails, and the strut towers really have nothing to do with it. Front end damage hard enough to tweak the frame would certainly involve the cross-member and anything attached to it. Like I said - I'm just guessing since I haven't seen your particular damage. GD

DOH! Brain fart. GD

Hatch tanks won't work - different size due to the smaller wheelbase. GD

Remove the tank and take it to a local radiator shop. They are generally equiped to deal with plugged up tanks. Likely the pickup tube is rusted solid, or stuffed up with varnish. GD

The tranny mounts are pretty easy to get to - you can get them out and back in without actually jacking up anything if you are a big strong individual. You might have to use a little persuasive shoving and cursing to get them back in, but getting them out is pretty simple. The engine mounts you will have to jack up the engine to remove, but only enough to remove the mounts from the cross-member. Shouldn't have to pull the engine or anything to do it. Might have to drop the exhaust off the heads to get it up far enough - and disconnect the pitching stopper from the firewall. When you do the engine mounts, it would be a good idea to do the oil pan gasket if you have leaks there (common) as it will be accesible durring the removing of the mounts due to the lifting. On the Brat - I would have to look at it personally to tell, but the axle's wearing out is pretty much normal. Especially with rebuilt units. http://www.cvaxles.com seems to be a decent choice among board members here. Or you can go my route and get lifetime ones from Autozone or Napa. As they are designed to operate at various angles, I doubt that minor frame damage would result in early failure. As for the rack - that is attached to the frame, and it's very possible that it's over-extending because of frame damage. Not much to do about that but to re-align the frame. GD

Keep it, lift it, and get a legacy as a daily. The EA82's are getting to be nearly as old as what you have, and they tend to be a bit more problematic than what you have now in some cases. Timing belts, headgaskets and lifter ticking to name just a few of the problems they have that the EA81 (what you have now) don't. Those problems seem to have been fixed for the most part on the EJ series engines in the Legacy and Impreza line. Just my opnion tho. GD

Could very well be Japansese... saw an EA81 coupe in a Japanese movie that was a "1600 GFT-5" go figure. GD

Yeah - you should keep your Brat. Also - since this is an 82, you have the 200mm clutch stock. Unless it's been upgraded already?? I know what the 200mm is like with big tires..... VERY BAD. The 225mm from 83 and up 4WD's is the one you really want. For that you will need the 83 and up 4WD flywheel tho.... better ask the new owner which one he wants..... GD

The color stamping does indicate a difference - but I can't tell you what it is on the EA82's. The EA81's have yellow for 4WD stuff (swaybars, springs struts, etc), and purple for 2WD stuff. GD

Carbed EA82's have a black air cleaner houseing...... GD

Check the rear main seal while your in there. Also - remember to use locktite on the flywheel bolts to prevent oil leakage, as they are tapped into the oil passage in the crank. GD

Check to see if it HAS any front axles. If one was removed, and the outer cup used to install the wheel, then you would get no sound. A broken axle should indeed make a lot of noise. Something like an impact wrench. The hub being stripped would initially make noise, but once ground up sufficiently, might quiet down a bit... should still be awful loose, and the wheel would wobble a bit I would think. GD

The four headlight soobs (like my 84 GL) have the high's and lows come on at the same time. Take a look at the 84 wireing diagram, and you will probably get the idea of how to adjust your wiring to be the same. Either that, or get the harness from an 84, or an 85 to 89 Hatch, and wire the healight parts of it in. GD