GeneralDisorder

Yes - whining about changeing belts IS for suckers - I completely agree. On the other hand - a consumer whining abouy PAYING to have his timing belts changed every 60k IS NOT a sucker. You have not considered the economics of the situation. I have no problems changeing belts. But I do have better things to do with my time. That and the fact that the EA82 never came in any body style I like leads me to not own one. GD

There's LOTS of 81 wagons out there still. I have an 84 wagon which is very similar. They are extremely easy to work on - you shouldn't have too much trouble - just ask if you have any questions. GD

He has both actually - a high HP one in a non-lifted street Brat, and a torque ground one for the silver off-road Brat. I have yet to ride in the street Brat - but I hear it's a beast. I was never comparing them to EA82's - I'm simply addressing the previous statements about how you can't get high HP from an EA81 - it's been done. It is in fact easier than an EA82 - there's only one cam - no tendancy to blow gaskets - etc. I have nothing against EA82's - I just don't personally want to deal with em. And people saying that my EA81's are stuck behind UPS trucks is just wrong. In reality there isn't much difference between the EA81 and EA82 vehicle (power wise) if you consider the whole package. They both are pretty gutless really. If tuned right they are adequate, and more than capable of passing. And this thread was "why did subaru change...". Well - in reality - there's no good reason - since these engines are not playing in the "over 8,000 rpm" range. They swaped slightly more complex valve train (that hasn't been a problem) for unreliable timing belts, and crappy headgaskets.... it's all in the intrest of progress tho, and the consumer is the one who has to pay the price. GD

My 84 wagon: http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo72/rear_wheel_well GD

Basher - you can think whatever you like of EA81's - you haven't seen Qman's Brat in action...... now he's got two of em. Each running about 150 HP - these are not airplanes, and they are not highly modified. Slightly yes - but definately not "highly". Different cam, EA71 pistons (not stronger - just higher compression), and decked heads. With a Weber this combo really moves. I will say again - the difference in HP of the NA EA81 and the NA EA82 is 15 HP, and this is due to the larger carb, and intake, and different exhaust. Also - this 15 HP is largely nullified by the higher weight of the vehicle. EA81's can pas UPS trucks easily. Power to weight ratio is basically the same. Come on over and I'll put the 175's back on my wagon. and we'll drag race..... I've had that car to 110 MPH. I've had it to 100 MPH with 28" mud terrains. The reason most EA81's that are still around are slow is because they are old, and probably aren't running very well. If I go with an engine with timing belts it WILL NOT be the EA82. Subaru didn't get it right - the belts suck - lasting only half as long as the EJ engines. The headgaskets are a weak link as well. The engine, while decent, does not hold up to the reliablilty of the EA81. My next plant will be an EJ - probably in my Brat. And there is no reason that a pushrod engine could not be designed to go just as fast as any OHC - it's just a matter of buiding it. It would be more expensive, and have more moving parts - but anything is possible. GD

One thing I would like to say - the stock y pipe is smaller than you think. It's double walled, and there's about 1/8" of space between the inner and outer walls. Making it about 3/8" smaller on the inside than it looks.... 2" from the heads is just way crazy big for a stock EA81. If you start adding a Weber, and a high flow intake, and a different cam, etc..... maybe, but even then I think it's probably too large. incidentally - I'm running a completely stock exhaust on my Weber'ed wagon - except I just left the muffler off. Yep - straight pipe. Pulls good considering I'm running 28" mudders. Sounds like a beast too. Purrs like a kitten at idle, but if you open both barrels - well - there goes the neighborhood as they say...... GD

Seems like a pretty easy thing to fix yourself - just remove it completely. Wait a few years, and these will be all over the junkyard...... GD

Yeah - I was talking about engine mounts when I said wheel hop - I didn't say that tho - sorry. As it was explained to me, the engine mounts load up when you dump the clutch (engine torques over to one side), and the engine mount being rubber, then acts like a rubber band - snapping back, and causeing the wheel to jump up and down. The stiffer urethane dampens the effect a lot, and doesn't load up as much when the engine torques down. This is all for a 2WD launch BTW - I've never experienced hop in 4WD hi. But then I can't get any wheels to break loose in 4WD - just a little chirp around corners off a stop light.... But your right - tranny mounts wouldn't have as much to do with wheel hop as the engine mounts I would think. Actually - the EA81 engine mounts are usually alright - it seems to be the tranny mounts that take a dump. I'm thinking about just doing the tranny mounts and seeing what effect that has. Most of the complaints about urethane mounts come from "idle vibration" - which since idling isn't moving the trans, I wouldn't think just urethnane tranny mounts alone would contribute to this. I'm hoping that they do a good job of secureing the trans, without really effecting the vibration, as most of that is taken care of by the engine mounts. We'll see tho. Vibration bothers me - but only when I don't know what is causeing it. If I know what is causeing it, and I make a concious decision to use mounts that allow more vibration, I'm ok with it.... does that make sense? At any rate, right now it's an experiment - a small scale one to see how the EA81 tranny handles them. I'll report my findings of course. It may be a while, as the Brat in my garage isn't moving for at least a few weeks - we've decided to pull the engine, and do some spring cleaning / POR15, and some welding in the engine bay to correct some off-roading damage to the radiator support. GD

There have been V8 OHC engines - the Ford 427 "cammer" - around 1964 vintage I believe. It was conceived to tear up the hemi's of the day - which it did nicely being that it puts out 657 HP with dual four barrel carbs..... completely unsuitible for street use - only 50 were made, etc, etc. And yes - the EA81's producing 200 HP are aircraft engines - but the discussion wasn't about that - it was about being able to get a pushrod 4 cylinder up to high HP. The EA82 isn't rated at higher HP than the EA81 because of it's OHC design. It has a bigger carb, bigger intake, and a redesigned head with bigger valves. Besides that it's a measly 15 HP. I can guarantee that I would eat an EA82 any day with a Weber, and striaght pipes on a well running EA81. The OHC has nothing to do with the higher HP numbers. Not to mention that the EA82 cars are heavier than the EA81's - eating up most if not all of the advantage they had to begin with. Both are well designed engines, and I've seen both go well past 7k rpms - that's way past their power curve, so it really doesn't matter if the EA82 can go "faster" than the EA81 now does it? I guess I'm saying that the EA82, while a good engine, was the first of it's kind for Subaru. They eat timing belts like candy, and are not particularly better than an EA81. I wouldn't trust an EA81 at 200 HP, nor would I trust an EA82 at 200 HP - your money would be better spent on an EJ engine. The reason the aircraft guys use the EA81, and spend $10,000 or more building them up is BECAUSE they are OHV - timing belts CAN break, and that's a bad thing at 20,000 feet. Need I say more? GD

There's still some play in em - their not completely solid. They will still absorb large shocks like shifting, and braking, etc. Small vibrations will transmit through - which shouldn't hurt anything - just make your hand brake and dash more annoying. The stiffer mounts will help control hard take offs, and eliminate the wheel hop that regular rubber mounts cause. Basically - they are still rubber - just a different kind of rubber, and a bit stiffer to dampen movement faster. GD

My pictures of the tranny mounts - as promised: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10424 literally a 20 minute job - once the mounts are out.... GD

That's way over the top for this coast - but not incoceivable for your side of the world maybe. Still sounds like a lot. I agree - no t-tops would kill the deal for me. I sure wouldn't own one without em. GD

Nope - not rare. I've seen a number of auto Brats. After 84, the Automatic GL Brat did not come with the T-tops - but it IS still a GL. Frankly - it's not worth as much as a manual, with the T-tops. But if you want an auto..... Depends on what they want for it, and condition. BTW - the EA81 Auto's were crap transmissions - figure on replacing it at some point, or swapping it over to a manual. incidentally - this is probably why you don't see as many of these - they were either crushed for a bad tranny, or converted to manuals. GD

Better HP? Nope - EA81's have been taken to 200 HP. Better mileage? Nope - I've seen EA81's get up over 35 MPG. Emmission? Nope - doesn't matter how the valves open - you can strap the SPFI to an EA81 and have the same emmisions equipment as the EA82.... You can make pushrods that are plenty strong enough for 300 HP - it's just a matter of making them from the right material, and making them thick enough. What everyone has failed to see is the accesebility of the overhead cam design. Your entire valve train is accesible right there in a small, removable engine peice, and is thus easily serviced. The EA81 has the disadvantage of having part of it's valve train inside the engine casing, and is much more difficult to service should something go awry. There is less moving parts in an overhead valve system - Subaru actually simplified things. I personally believe Subaru went with the overhead cam design because the engine is more easily tuned, and cams can be changed out, etc without removing the engine frorm the car - this has many benifits for rally teams, and race teams where modifications need to be done quickly. Now - having said this - I still will run my EA81 - because Subaru didn't get the timing belts right on the EA82 - the EJ's are better from what I understand, and I may eventually get one. For me - I can get just as much HP from an NA EA81 as anyone else can from an NA EA82. By simply adding a Weber, and a high flow muffler, I'm already higher than a stock EA82...... Also - EA81's are cheaper to buy, run and maintain. GD

I have had my EA81's to at least 7000, with no problems. And the aircraft guys use a lot of stock internals too. But I do see your points. I think that rod breakage has a lot to do with the age of the motor. 7000 is nothing for a new engine of this design.... I think that was my point really. GD

Pretty sure from when I was looking that those are either for the A/C, or the Cruise Control - both of which I removed from my wagon. No ill effects to be seen from their removal. I beleive they control such things as the A/C idle up, the A/C fan, and the A/C clutch for the compressor. GD

I've seen the moldable stuff that you mix - but it's really soupy, and you *must* have a mold. This stuff is more like a paste, and no mold is needed. I may do up a batch of the other stuff if I like these, and make a bunch of sets of these - maybe even offer them to other board members on the cheap. Heck - if I have a mold, I might as well make a few of em. GD

Can't bust a valve off - it's not an interferance engine. The aircraft guys run the EA81's at 7500 RPM's all day long. I think a long time ago on the old board it was mentioned that the short stubby rods in our engines would most likely make it well beyond 10,000 RPM's before bursting. GD

Does it have A/C? My wagon had those relays there - three of em - gold colored right? I pulled em out and tossed em in the garbage.... didn't affect my guages - but then I have a digi-dash. Still - I wouldn't think that would be your problem. GD

*UPDATE - 2/25/04* *These mounts failed in testing due to melting from exhaust temperatures. Please go here for the latest on this topic* *Update - 8/11/04* *Actually - they didn't melt from exhaust - I neglected to wait long enough for them to cure. 48 hours at least is a MUST or they will not be fully cured* Well - I had read a couple articles online about polyurethane tranny mounts, and how they are better than rubber, etc.... and I found an article on how to make your own honda civic torque mounts using polyurethane windsheild goo. I am currently replacing a tranny in a friends 82 Brat, and the tranny mounts are shot. The alternatives were buy new ones ($55 each - OUCH!), or get junk yard ones which probably wouldn't be much better that what he had - seeing as they are all nearly 20 years old by now.... so I decided it was time to give this polyurethane stuff a try: First a shot of what the old mounts looked like - both before I cleaned them (I used that orange hand cleaner stuff....), and after: Now for a couple shots of the finished product: They are solidifying nicely - I'll be installing them tommorow... Here's a link to the article that gave me this idea.... he shows a pic of the tube of stuff I used - I got the same stuff at NAPA: http://importnut.net/motormount.htm GD

Your slight power increase may have come from the removal of your very restictive stock muffler. Likely you would have even more power if you had at least a little smaller pipe off the heads. But if it's working for you, then go with it. GD

Um - for one thing you really should put that sensor back in - that's part of the feedback carb's sensor system, and without it, you are unlikely to be able to pass CA emissions. I can almost guarantee that your ECS light is caused by your removal of the sensor - the ECU is running in "open loop" mode because it thinks the engine is never warming up..... I had to replace that sensor on my wagon last year before I put on a weber..... same problem - dirve for 15 minutes and the light comes on. GD

Yeah - I did - forgot to reply tho - I'll do that right now.... GD

Find an 88 or 89 fuel injected GL, or GL-10. The carbs are crappy - unless you are going to replace it with a Weber..... the SPFI is plentiful, and there are tons of cars in the JY with good SPFI systems on them - plenty of cheap parts. The carbs are usually shot, are hard to rebuild, and parts - while plentiful and cheap, are usually just as bad as what you are replacing. GD

All EA81 body windsheilds are the same. You need a new or good used gasket to do the install - $55 from jcwhitney. Doing it yourself isn't really reccomended, but if you want to, you use a string, and a lot of slimy tire installation stuff.... put the string in the groove, and lay the windshield over the opening - pull the string through to the inside of the cab, and this will pull the gasket on with it - work you way around, and it's done. Basically it sounds simple, but really isn't. To get the old one out, you either smash it (really, really messy), or cut the gasket with a utility knife. GD