GeneralDisorder

Don't mess with the carb - get a Weber. GD

Man - you have to think "outside the box" we can prime our filters just fine - turn the car on it's side.... DUH! GD

I'm running 15x6 - my spare is a 15x7. Depends on what tire your running really. I would imagine a 15x8 or even 9 would probably work, but go as narrow as you can for your tire of choice - helps to keep the tire seated well, and prevents bead popping on the trail.... also keeps some rubber between your rim and the rocks.... GD

My vote goes to sloppy throttle shaft bores - common on the hitachi's, and cause them to suck air - lean out and die. Nothing to do but rebuild the carb (and bush the shaft) or get another one (Weber time). GD

All the drain plugs on my soobs are stripped - I just use a pipe wrench on em now! Works great - can't be stripped. GD

Your correct - I can't *assume* anything - but like any mechanic, I'm going with the most likely problem first. I have no reason to question the float level, and I've also heard many times here on the board from people who have this same problem - and adjusting their float did nothing to fix it. Couple that with much reading on Weber carbs noting that with our stock fuel pumps we are running the wrong pressure, and since they are 20+ years old, this is even further reduced - the fuel pump looks like a very likely target for replacement. Also add to that the fact that I have heard NO reports of incorrect float levels on factory built Weber's - I think their quality control on something like that is probably very good - considering their reputation in the market. I think we would be hearing Jeep and Toyota people screaming bloody murder if that were the case. GD

I have an air suspension trouble shooting manual... no air suspension car tho. If you like I could get it duplicated at a copy place. It's the video reference manual - has lots of diagrams and pictures..... GD

You can "mod" the carb to open mechanically. Should be in the USRM somewhere.... GD

The hatch struts should be availible through http://www.thepartsbin.com for around $20 each brand new..... GD

Well - our systems are quite different - for one I'm running a Weber and a different front fuel filter (clear type - aftermarket). And our pumps are probably different models - since your's is an EA82, and mine's an EA81. It's hard to say exactly what your problem is torxx - heck it's hard to say *exactly* what mine is - I just *feel* that it's the pump, as that's the only thing that I haven't replaced with new parts..... the chances of my float being off are extremely slim in my opinion, as the carb came directly from Weber in the kit for my exact engine model.... GD

Awesome! Lookin good. Hey - how can a man email you these days? I emailed a while ago about the SPFI swap but never got a reply - you using the same account as you have listed here? GD

Awesome - I'll be very interested to hear if this solves it. It was a big concern of mine at first, but it takes a VERY hard corner to lean out on my wagon, and after the big tires and lift, I don't take corners fast enough to notice it anymore. I suspect that eventually I'll end up replacing it anyway. GD

I have NO idea where that came from - and if you would like to ask around, I have made it VERY clear to several people (including mods) that I don't wish to EVER be a mod. sheesh.... You do NOT remember correctly - in fact - your wrong on pretty near everything in this thread.... Oh - and for the sake of not hijacking this thread further - I quit this silly conversation. GD

Sorry to say there is no quick answer anyone here can give you - you'll have to tear it apart. Just a hint - pull the engine. It's much easier than pulling the tranny if you don't have a lift. GD

Man with 45 posts shouldn't be so rude to man with nearly 2000, and other man with over 500. We are after all - only trying to help this individual. opps! my bad - OVER 2000. GD

It's not the pressure that matters - it's the volume. You can have 1000 psi of pressure - won't matter if your volume is too low - the engine will use it all up before the pump can refill the bowl. If you want to test volume - run it into a gallon jug till it's full and time it..... GD

Well - your should check prices on the BFG's and the Swampers - they aren't really much different. BFG's are expensive in comparison to most AT's, and the Swampers are really a pretty good deal. GD

My Weber does this too - the increased fuel demand on the 20 year old pump I think is too much. Your's might be bad enough to cause the hitachi problems too. I've suspected the fuel pump on mine for a while, since it's the only component of the system that hasn't been replaced with new parts. Brand new Weber, brand new filters (air and fuel), and I still have it bog down on hard left turns. I say get a new one - or a universal one with around 3 or 4 psi. If you ever go to a Weber you'll want it anyway I think. GD

It matters little exactly where it is - it's under the car - you'll find it - just trace the fuel supply lines frorm the tank..... GD

Fuel pump is located near the gas tank, under the car. It only runs when the engine is running, or cranking...... GD

The gaskets are availible from JC whitney for $55 (last time I looked). Or find a JY car with a cracked or broken windshield, and smash it the rest of the way out - snag the good gasket...... GD

I think Boz is talking EA81, and Meeky said RX - so that's EA82T - both are COMPLETELY different than yours. One thing on the EA81 2WD disty's - they are a different design - made by NipponDenso, and they fail more quickly than the Hitachi's that were used on the 4WD. This failure is due to the shaft bushings. It's not that the bushings of the distys wear at different rates - its that the design of the Hitachi can handle MUCH more slop in the shaft before replacement is needed. Any perceptibale slop in the ND disty will cause dramatic reduction in power, and tach "jump". I've seen Hitachi's that were functioning seemingly perfect with nearly 1/16" of slop in the shaft. GD

Seriously - driving is all about Physics. Take a physics class at your local community college - you will learn all you need. Then go to a track (or dirt feild), and practice with what you have learned. It's really not that hard to figure out. It's all about coeficients of friction (static AND rolling), weight transfer (brakes, acceleration, steering), and gearing / rpms. You decide what you want to practice, and after each run, think about what the car did right and what it did wrong, and how you can change that using what you know about physics. Same goes for learning to drive a stick - if you know the principle of operation behind a clutch, and a transmission, it makes driving one a lot easier. For me it was a 10 minute ordeal, since I already knew how the system operates internally. GD

My opinion is you need to get it tighter. Grab a big section of pipe, and a breaker bar - reef that sucker down. Stand on it - jump on it - drive backwards with the bar wedged on the ground - do whatever it takes - your not putting enough "luv" on it. I have done quite a few axles, and never had one loosen. I've broken a few breaker bars tho. I'm not a small person, and I do strip things out now and then - but if I tighten it - no way it's comming loose. GD

I am 6' 2" and 200 lbs - I have no problem at all in my 85. Plenty of head room. Not great on the leg room, but it's fine - no problem to drive, and not uncomfortable for long periods. GD