GeneralDisorder

I don't know - but maybe just have a look at the thing - there's got to be something amiss if it's going that high. I've never heard of one doing that. Just take a look and see if there's some screw somewhere or something. That's what I would do anyway. GD

Well - it's hard to describe - I'll take a picture of mine that failed because of this tomorrow. GD

Hate to break it to you, but POR15 is really the only thing for rust. I've tried lots of stuff over the years - rust always comes back. GD

No - I'm contemplating doing it. Although it does seem possible. Have it on good authority from Adam (see above), that it would work using the EA81 release bearing..... however, I have no idea how long that would last, as it's not really the right size for the application. GD

Expensive! http://www.centerforce.com Also - watch out for pressure plates that can hold dirt against the spring fingers. This can be VERY bad off-road. I notice that looking at the "high performance" clutches for WRX's and such, that this design is common. REALLY BAD TIMES if you get enough dirt in there to cause the clutch to not engage - belive me, I had 12" of water under my front seats to prove it. GD

There's a LOT of junk that goes to that system - piles and piles of it. I just got done gutting the system from my wagon. Besides the evaperator, the compressor, the recevier/drier, and the condensor (under passenger side dash), the system has a bunch of electrical doo-dads that I don't even know what they do. There's a whole stack of relays on the passenger strut tower, and there's the whole idle-up system for the carb down on the manifold. About 100 miles of vacuum hose to make it all go together. And we haven't even gone into the electrical harness for all of this (which on my car was part of the car's harness cause it was factory equipped).... I say get an FSM if you are really serious about this, or talk to the dealer and see if they can get you a part list for the "dealer installed" AC kit for your model year..... Maybe buy one of those window style AC units for your house, and cut a hole in the rear hatch window. Get a generator and...... Similar to Skip's fix for a bad heater core..... set the passenger seat on fire:headbang: Or you could just open the windows..... GD

There is even yet another method. If you lift the body 6" or so, you can shove in a nissan transfer case. With a little tweaking of the EJ automatic tranny, you can get it to lockup 100% power to the rear driveshaft output. You then run that into a nissan 4WD transfer case, and from there to front and rear subaru diffs. This has the added coolness that the engine goes up 6", getting it up there with the body, and out from under the car. Sounds like you want you lo-range - if so, that really is the best way to go. John (Mudrat79 can do the lift for you. He's done several now.....) As far as the axle thing, John is NOT talking about the EA81T axles, as they are the same as any other EA81 axle - I know that for a fact. Therefore I conclude that he is talking about the EA82 turbo coupe's (ie: 3 door) axles. Which makes sense - the EA82 turbo axles do have a weird spline count, that very well could match up to the spline count of the EJ tranny. GD

I will be at the Xmas tree run - so will your laptop. Worry not my friend. I intended to call you, but got hung up in Lincoln City for most of the day working on a server down there. Got back late, and figured you were gone by then (10 PM or so). GD

If you have an 82 wagon with an EA82, then it didn't come that way stock. The EA82 was not put into any car until 85. Likely that the engine was still under development, if even that, in '82. Your car is a Gen 2 with a Gen 3 engine. Possible to build, but never done from the factory. GD

Philbin Manufacturing: http://www.philbingroup.com/ I beleive it was I who introduced the board to them a while back. They did a great job for me. Rebuild is $35 if you dissasemble it for them. They do vac advance units too - another $25 or something I think. They also do recurves - was thinking about having that done for lower end torque. GD

The RX tranny's weakness is it's lack of a really low lo gear, and the 3.7 diff. Those in conjunction give you no crawling power at all. Basically worthless off road. Good for rally driving, and gravel roads etc. Not good for hardcore off roading. Even 3.9 is too high. I would really like some 4.11's or some 4.44's, but it's not going to happen cause of the front diff. Unless of course you go with massive lift (6"+), and do the nissan transfer case type of thing. Then you can run any ratio you want. Such as legacy 4.11 LSD's or something. Or heck - even solid axles if you so desired. GD

Yeah - there is a metal sleeve in there - could be that your rubber is toast. Also could be that the nuts are just stuck. There is some play to the thing cause the body side is rubber mounted, so sometimes they are a bit hard to get started turning. GD

Used to be a Subaru tech eh? You get his number for future reference and tell him about the board? Incidentally - doesn't take a subaru tech to know that trick. That's worked for me on many cars over the years. Common problem. Last time that happened to me it was in an Infinity G20 Pull it apart, and rebuilt the solenoid. Or get a started from the JY. At any rate - rebuilt ones are pretty cheap. GD

I think you are confused Torxxx - the diff lock is not for the rear end, it's for the center diff - it locks the front to the rear on cars with "Full Time 4WD". You don't need a diff lock in the center because you don't have a center diff, and thus you are already "locked" 50/50 front rear when you're in 4WD. Also - the diff lock trannies are 3.7 gear ratio, which makes them almost useless for off-road - and even if they were 3.9, the only one that would be any good would be the RX tranny, cause it had the D/R. although I think the RX's low gear is higher than a regular low gear in a normal D/R 4WD tranny. Not totally sure on that tho. GD

I don't know about lynching for carving up an EA81T car - if it was a Brat then there's a good possiblity, but a wagon, or even a coupe... well, I would say it would have to matter who was carving it up, and for what purpose - and what condition it was it too. I wouldn't mind seeing some beat up coupe or wagon donate it's engine to build a turbo Brat - that would be alright by me. Turbo wagons and coupes are out there - but turbo Brat's are pretty hard to come by. GD

Pretty sure he's refering to Generations of cars, not heads Also - the engines are only a rough estimate, as there's a mix/match in some gens. What this really refers to is the body style of the car. Gen 1 = All 1979 and older models back to 19?? (fill this in you really old school guys). And 1980 and 1981 Brats as well. Gen 2 = All 1980-1984 Wagons, Coupes, and Sedans. All 1982-1987 Brats. All 1980-89 hatchbacks. Gen 3 = All 1985 - 1994 Wagons (DL, GL , GL-10, whatever), Loyales, 3 doors, sedans, etc (anything with an EA82 engine) GD

Well - I'm not sure what you are missing - you say you have the seats, and the bracket welded into the bed.... that's really all there is. Your seats do have the handlebars on them right? If not, then your are missing the metal frames that the seats sit on. Those usually aren't removed from the seats, but I guess it's possible. Those metal frames have two U shaped peices in the back that slip over the round peice, and two holes in the front where bolts hold them to the frame in the bed. The complete seat system includes (to my knowledge): Headrests (2) Headrest mounting rails (2) Headrest rail brackets (4) (welded into the bed) Seat mounting bracket (1) (welded into the bed) Seats (2) Seat frames (2) (the part with the handlebars) Seatbelt retractors (2) Seatbelt male parts (2) Seatbelt retractor covers (2) (vinyl bags) GD

Why would it do that? Other than complete rust-out, or massive body damage.... kind of silly to replace a car that you are going to put so much time into (ie: lift, tires, etc) cause of a little mechanical problem. I mean - that's cool if you want another one, but keep em both running - don't part it unless it's a complete loss. Just my opinion tho. GD

There were several manufacturers, and several styles - you'll have to be more specific I think. Also - pics would help a bunch. GD

Yeah - that bearing with the punch marks on it is probably the culprit I'm guessing. Having a bent bearing race could have caused it to squeal like that I'm thinking. GD

I'm sure your right that it will work fine. But you know me - always trying something. Wouldn't be any fun if I just left it alone. Always searching for a way to improve my setup. Still getting a squeal from somewhere - I think one of the clutch bearings. I want to pull the engine anyway so I can clean in there, and remove more stuff. Got a bunch of new gaskets for the engine too - oil pan, valve covers, exhaust, etc. GD

Anybody else got a clue on this? GD

Just try turning it one tooth one way or the other - be careful doing it. GD

There are MANY ways to fix that. Personally, for the time involved, and the nature of aluminum, I would probably just go get another manifold from the JY. At any rate, you should remove the manifold to work on it, and cut off what remains of the stud. Center punch it, and drill the stud out - don't go too deep. Then tap the hole out, and use a bolt instead of a stud to hold the carb down. Or you could put in another stud - up to you. GD

lifetime warranty is cool - but are you sure the car will last that long? I haven't been impressed with autozone for quality of parts. There's lots of places online that you can get two kits for that price. Also - if your going to do it, you might as well get a turbo clutch, or even an XT6 clutch. Better performance. The XT6 flywheel is lighter I understand. Not sure what the differences are in the Turbo flywheel. I just did my clutch - with Qman's help. Things to remember that I learned from him on this subject: 1. Replace the rear main seal - it's right there, and cheap. Use a little silicone on the outside edge of it, and some grease or oil on the inside where it touches the crank. 2. Use locktite (we used blue) on the flywheel bolts - they are tapped right into the crank oil passage, and the locktite will seal againts oil leakage. 3. There is a mark on the flywheel (little round "O" shape) on one of the gear teeth, and there should be a mark on the pressure plate as well that is similar. These marks should be at least 90 degrees apart when installing the PP onto the flywheel. 4. Grease the contact points for the release bearing holder where it contacts the fork, and inside the hole where the groove is. GD