GeneralDisorder

Just noticed as I saw one today - from the rear, they really kind of remind me of a Gen 1 Brat. How come every one I see is yellow? Think I've seen one black one and one silver one - but see TONS of yellow ones. Even at the dealership..... As was previously stated - too bad there's no 4WD D/R availible. I think if it had that, and optional roll-bars, and factory suspension lifts, I would buy one just to beat up on the trail. GD

For comparison, my 84 wagon with a weber gets about 27 in town, and around 32 freeway. That's a carbed EA81! GD

Maybe - but again, that depends on the year, and which tunnel sheet metal was used that year. There may be several, and each could require a different amount. 1/4" might work on one, but might not be enough on the next one you do. Comprehensive research needs to be done on each part number, and what it entails to do the swap correctly. Making a spacer that doesn't work is worse than giving me nothing at all. At least I don't have to pay for nothing. And most of us can adjust the amount with some washers...... that was my idea BTW - I had like 37 washers on my tranny before the lift. Made it driveable, but it still hit the tunnel. The 2WD tunnels are REALLY small. Just be glad you didn't have all the conversion work I had...... GD

Haven't you been listening to me Matt? It's not just a wagon problem - any car, be it hatch, brat, wagon, coupe, whatever, will have the floorpan that was designed to go with it's tranny. If you have an automatic hatch or brat, then you will have a different floor pan AND a different cross-member, and you will have the same problems as you had on your wagon. Now that said, the kit is designed for 4 spd D/R cars. If you have ANYTHING that was not originally a 4 spd D/R, you will most likely have issues of one form or another. My wagon was a 2WD 5 spd - there is NO WAY that his kit would work in my wagon without major alteration (I'm talking before the lift) - I couldn't even fit a 4 spd D/R in there, let alone a 5 spd. No kit from anyone would have made that combination any easier. There simply was not enough room. I measured the tunnel, and they are WAY smaller. And you have part number mayhem flying every which way on this one. Everyone just has to rip theirs apart, and take the cars one at a time, as they are all likely to be a mixed bag of strange tranny tunnels. GD

Ok - that's good to know. I won't be getting a tree myself (no room in my tiny place), but I'll ask my friends if they want one. I'll let you know on Sunday. GD

How did that work out for you? Your Brat running like it ough to now? GD

Hey - it's non-refundable - keep it, and relist the Brat on ebay. Looks like you made $100 of a deadbeat bidder. Good for you! GD

Do we each need a permit? How much are they? GD

It's true - this is a great place. Hope it never changes. GD

Yeah - I checked CCR's site for prices, but they want 100's of $$ for a rebuilt unit. For that much, I could actually get a new weber. What I'm wanting to do is just freshen up the carb a bit, and maybe get it to stop dying when cold, and get the idle back down to where it's supposed to be (it's about 1100 right now). Eventually, I'm planning on doing the SPFI coversion on this engine. And If I don't like that, I'll then put on a weber. But I do want to get my hands dirty on that SPFI conversion - it looks tasty. NAPA sounds like the ticket - have you rebuilt many of these Bill? Anyone got any other sugestions? GD

Oh yeah - I'll be there. November 29th sounds good to me too. GD

On the EA81's there's a set of connectors that you swap around under the dash. The light is mileage controled. Don't know about EA82's but I'm sure someone does. Free bump. GD

Yes - the transfer case is a sub-assembly of the transmission. It's really all one unit. To get D/R, you have to swap the whole thing out. Pretty easy actually since you are starting with a manual. Also easy to find in this area. Any of the JY's will have one - probably 10 - just shop around for best price / warrantee. GD

A long time ago when I ran into this very same problem (tranny tunnel size when doing tranny swaps), Noah looked up the part numbers for the floor pan sheet metal. Each type of transmission has a different part number, and some of the numbers even change from year to year. I think he said there was like 8 or 9 different part numbers just from 85 to 89 (talking EA81's only here). I don't think a comprehensive list is possible for this reason. GD

I want to rebuild a hitachi for my Brat - I'll probably start with a JY one, and get a kit. What brand of kits do you guys reccomend? And where to get them? Any experience anyone has had with rebuilding these specific types of carbs would be appreciated. And before someone sugests it, no - I don't want to put on a weber. GD

Agreed - Jerry, you should keep making them. Both Matt and Austin have attempted to use your kit on a vehicle it was not intended for, and it is therefore their problem to figure out how to make it work. You make a cool product, and one that the community is in need of. GD

You can't - at least not without a LOT of fabrication. No one (to my knowledge) has sucessfully done a complete suspension lift on any Subaru. With the exception of the rear end 3" lift that Mudrat does to the EA81's. It's not perfect cause the camber is off, but it is technically a suspension lift. Won't work for the EA82's - they have completely different rear ends. But please - if you have the resources to do it - design one for us! The people I have talked to have agreed that the major problem for us is the front axles - they simply don't have enough travel for suspension lifts. With the stock front axles, you might get another 1 inch of lift, but that's about it. The rear axles - since they don't have to turn, are good for 3 inches or so..... GD

You can find rust free Brats for $1000 or less here in the west. Easy. Seen quite a few of them. Bought mine for less than a $1000 in fact. Since it's an 82 - which is a special year. And rust free with a straight body. If it has the seats, prolly closer to $1500 would be my guess. If the paint is really nice, then maybe closer to $2000. GD

Yeah - actually, I did have mine spaced down with some washers before the lift - worked pretty well. You have to put them on the cross-member, AND under the big plates that the cross-member attaches too - I used something like 30 or 40 washers up in there - not enough to require longer bolts, but you could use more washers, and longer bolts... With the washers, I got close to a full 1" more space for the tranny to sit. I didn't do any pounding at all, and it was really easy to install. And all the shift linkages still worked fine. Sort of a mini body lift for the tranny. Also - you can adjust the pitching stopper back so there's not so much pressure on the tranny. That's how I did it - drove the car like 300 miles that way with no problems. GD

Yeah - hope to see you at the Xmas tree run! GD

Your not going to get rid of the negative camber. He didn't just add the coil overs to make it 3" higher - he also ratcheted up the torsion bar - and that is actually where the negative camber is comming from. In order to get rid of that problem, you would have to lower it back down the full 3" or it would still be negative. With big Mud terrians I haven't noticed any problems with tire wear. Heck - I didn't notice any problems with th 175's I had on there for a while. John confirmed this - he has never had a problem either, and he's run these lifts for like 12 years. I think that negative camber in the front is more of a problem because the front tires turn. Since the rear tires don't turn, it really doesn't seem to be an issue. Also - if you take a look at the clearance between the coil over spring, and the tire, you'll notice that with your wildcats there's about 1.5" between the sidewall and the coil. If you were to remove the negative camber, the tire would rub on the coil. I wouldn't touch it if I were you. And no - the PK lifts are not suspension lifts, so they do not have this "problem" (I prefer to call it a "feature"). GD

There are MANY floor pans for the EA81 series cars, and every one is different. Jerry's kit is made (I believe) to fit a 4 spd D/R car converted to a 5 spd D/R. For one thing - Matt, you started with an auto tranny - so different tranny tunnel there. Austin - don't knwo what you started with, but I think you mentioned it was an EA71 with a single range 4WD 4 spd - also different. I wouldn't go blaming Jerry's kit so fast - I think you both have odd cars is all. You will have to beat on it till it fits.... or lift it - that gets rid of the problem real quick. GD

I think you can get Pug rims in 14x6 too. GD

There is one big nut under the horn pad - there's several kinds of horn pads - some are screwed on from underneath, and others are just pull-off style. GD

The weber's will do that sometimes - try advancing your timing. Most people seem to agree that stock timing isn't right for the weber. GD