GeneralDisorder

Maybe we should start our own subaru only rally club, and just thumb our noses at the SCCA. hehe J/K Then I think the SCCA's classes stink. And why is that anyway? Why do we have to be under the control of the SCCA? Don't mind me - I just like to question things.... This is beginning to look a lot like what has happened to NASCAR. (ie: aren't they supposed to be STOCK cars? Friggin rediculous). I guess I'm just a typical engineer - engineers don't like it when rules are based on things that have no meaning for the function of the thing being engineered. The sheet metal (except at high speed) provides no function under the conditions of the RallyX. Because of that, I think it's silly to use it in a major classification system. But whatever - I'll still run of course. I'm just ranting. I probably should have attended to voice these opinions - not that they would have been heard anyway.... GD

That's definately worth restoreing. Damn - I've been wanting a Gen 1 Brat too.... have often looked longingly at your pictures of the 78. Would be sweet with an EA81 and a D/R in it. Wish I had the money for it. GD

His turbo wagon is lifted? Awsome. We need to get his rig fixed up so he can come out and play. You did give him the board's address right? Hey Brian - Thanks for the clutch! You gave it to Ken, and said to keep it in case anyone needs one..... well I did, and we put it in last Monday morning after my clutch failed in a water trap at reiters. I hope I can return the favor sometime. You really saved my bacon being thoughful and thinking ahead like that. I brought spare axles and stuff with me.... never thought I would need a clutch tho! (Well - I knew it was weak cause it was a 2WD, but I didn't know it would clog with dirt like that). GD

That's very sweet - where did you manage to pick that up? GD

Actually - your right - the wagon is sort of an SUV, so I guess they do both fit in the truck class. However - an '84 sedan wouldn't be either - not a truck, and not an SUV - but again - same running gear. How do you class that? I just think that the body style of the vehicle should not be part of the designation. Manufacturers thow different body's on the same basic suspension and running gear all the time - those cars that are similar MECHANICALLY should compete. I'm not saying there should be a a minor adjustment here, I'm saying WIPE the slate clean, and make all new catagories based on physics, not sheet metal. GD

I'm 6'2" and I don't have any trouble in any of my EA81's - the Brat or the Wagon. I bet it's close tho. Interesting that they got smaller in the height department - they did get wider tho. GD

I think the classes should be based completely on the drive train, and not on the body. As to the drive train of a Brat - well it's the same as the wagon, and thus should be in the same class. I do not however know which class that should be. On the one hand the wagon isn't a truck in the normal sense of the word, and the Brat certainly is. Very confusing - maybe they should get rid of the "truck" class completely, and come up with classes based on suspension style, height , and drivetrain. In that respect, the Brat would certainly fall in the same catagory as the wagon, and definately not in the catagory of the rest of the trucks. This I think would seperate the cars nicely, and you would have more competition, and less complaints about the car not bieng fair. It would all come down to the driver because the cars in each class would be more or less similar in design. Looking at only the engine, and if it's 2WD or 4WD is not enough to catagorize the vehicle. And going by the body styleing is just plain silly I say. No - suspension is the key to catagorizing the vehicles correctly. Combine that with the drive train, and you'll have a winning set of catagories I think. GD

Hey tim - what about a chick enthusiest? Hehe J/K GD

So do the cops often check for inner tubes inside of your tubeless tires in your neck of the woods? That would really suck if they did. I feel sorry for the person that gets a "tube check" on the side of the road. LOL GD

DO NOT hold the shifter while in gear - you will destroy the syncro's this way. And you can get those bushings from the dealer. Heck - you can still get the 4 spd bushings - I got one not long ago for a little over $3. GD

Oh yeah - they totally want you to keep them if you think you'll need it again - you did pay for it after all. It's great cause I didn't know which type of puller would work best on ball joints, so I just tried one. Found out that it wasn't the best choice, but I'm only 10 minutes from them, and I had the right one 30 minutes later. GD

Kindof like the DL 4WD's, but with ROUND lights instead of semi square ones. To my knowledge, this ONLY came on STD's Like this 1980 for instance: http://usmb.net/gallery/album72/1980_c Huh - guess they WERE 4WD - cool. GD

Yeah - hehe - the Chaser. I don't think the Chaser was a STD tho. But who freakin knows anyway. I REALLY don't want to get into that again. The STD, from what I can tell was the 2 round headlight model, with no options of any kind, and it had the 4 speed 2WD tranny. I would love to have one just for that grill and headlight setup. I would make it 4WD of course.... GD

Well - I'm just an idea man, and not much for actually fabbing things (yet), but I don't see why you couldn't get some round stock, and bolt it in where the stubs are on the diff (may have to have it turned down to be the right diameter). Now obviously it wouldn't have splines on it - well screw the whole spline business, and cut the DOJ houseing back to where there is no more splines, and weld a four bolt flange onto that - same with the new stub. Now you have a four bolt flange mounting for the inner joint - just like a hummer! Have to be really careful on the welding part so as not to make them just as weak as the hollow stubs were - might be done tho. GD

Your not lifting the thing so much as you are DROPPING the trans 1". Hard to tell if this will be enough or not. You may still need to do some minimal beating. Austins idea to use an air chisel is a good one. That ought to teach it a lesson I would think. Also - I wouldn't personally use a whole 1" of washers as a long term soloution to the problem. Yes - it worked for me, and I did drive it some, but I am not comfortable reccomending you do this for a long term solution. Maybe it would work - maybe it wouldn't. I did it knowing that it would come back out shortly when the lift went in. The problem I see with the washers is there is no shear strength to them. They have no sideways rigidity, and you could potentially shear off one of those bolts pretty easy. Also - DO NOT use the stock bolts if you go a whole inch with washers on the radius plates - there not long enough, and you won't engage enough thread. If you want it for long term use, I say get some 1" square iron, and drill some holes in 1"x1" blocks of the stuff, and get some longer bolts. Basically make yourself 6 miniature lift blocks. GD

There's some debate as to weather the Hatch came in a STD in '88 and '89. At least as far as anyone can tell on the board, no one has come up with a STD from those years I think. Also - a bit confusing there - the hatch did make use of the EA71 technically till 89, but it ALSO used the EA81 - just depends on the model. The 4WD's all had EA81's, unless you go back to the early 80's. I think the GL 2WD's did too. The DL 2WD's might have had either one I suspect. And the STD 4 speed 2WD's definately had the EA71 in them. Who knows how correct I am - it's very confusing for those later Gen 2's where they were being phased out. GD

Ya know - with the tach jumping you describe, and the lack of power, and the backfireing - it really sounds like your distributor is starting to go. Wiggle the shaft - there should be almost no play if it's good. Possibility anyway. If that is the case - there should be someone in a close LARGE town that could do the shaft bushing for you. Cost around here is about $35 These guys can do it: http://www.philbingroup.com/ GD

The later EA71's had the same water pump as the EA81. I've pulled them from 1980 1600 cars in the JY that had the EA81 water pump..... but that could have been a replacement engine too. Hard to tell. Does it really matter? The engine should still work - hey maybe it has the hydro lifters too? That would be cool if it did. GD

Probably just some nylon bushings on the shifter - get em from the dealer. Shouldn't cost more than a couple bucks. Do you rest your hand on the shifter while it's in gear? That is one cause of premature failure on these parts. Pressure from you hand causes the vibration to wear the parts quicker - just like pushing harder on a palm sander. It also wears out the syncro's in your tranny. Very bad habit if you do that. GD

You might ask in the legacy forum.... I know your not looking to spend a lot, but these guys make probably some of the best all-season tires in the world. You probably don't want to spend $180+ per tire, but they are cool to drool over (the company is in Iceland): http://www.nokiantyres.com/ Oh - and don't forget to watch their commercials: http://nokian.verstas.com/index.php?page=imagebank.php?keywords=spot%20mainos%20englanti They are awsome in the snow - they were designed for it. And are in the top 10% of the best dry pavement summer tires too. Really amazing. GD

That's a nice pic Man. Hey - if you want a calendar pic - check this out: http://usmb.net/gallery/albup19/puddle_run I thought it was cool anyway. I've got a bigger version if you did by chance want to use it. GD

This rear fog light - it could be integrated into the tail lights. I know on newer cars, they have began adopting the european style of having the "rear fog light" just turn on the drivers side brake light solid. Maybe it's supposed to do that. Although the US models did not have that feature to my knowledge. Common in europe tho. GD

Sounds like you may have a vacuum leak - what is your idle at without the AC? Vacuum leak can cause high idle. GD

Chances are - something like this would end up being more expensive than a used STi. hehe GD

BMW - hehe. Audi has a similar setup, except theirs uses TWO clutches that switch off between themselves, so it can switch gears without removing power to the wheels EVER. pretty slick. Also drives like a manual - 6 speeds etc. Also - I have driven my friends 98 A6 quatro, and I can say that it's tiptronic auto really does work quite well. Doesn't shift for you until slightly past redline (I can understand that since many people would toast the engines if allowed to go as far as they want). And it shifts fast enough. With an ECU upgrade, he could get it to shift faster, but it's already just a little over 1 second. Don't think I could shift faster than it by hand anyway... Incidentally, I did waste him in my Volvo 850 turbo. He just couldn't hang with the inline 5 turbo. That car was a peice of crap tho, and I got rid of it. GD