rocketman

If you care about your pets, please stop the leak.

Its so bad where I am near Canada in the salt belt,I had to throw away bushings and tensioners,to keep from seizeing, and lots of grease.

When it comes to lug nuts, I use a torque wrench, mostly so Roters don't warp.

Wow that is so cool!

Spark plugs that is.

Oh and take Sparks out first just in case it is hydro lock, you don't want to bend a piston connecting rod,been there done that!

Radiater fans are easy to remove,giving you more room to turn engine,make sure in neutrel

Bring sample to salvage yard and match up.

I go under behind wheel with two foot extension and 14mm swivel socket.

Mine jumped a couple of teeth,so I put a belt gaurd on it,never happend again,mostly for standerd trans cars.

Thank you GD FOR EVERY WORD you said,I hope others will recognize your talent.

I may be wrong on this,but I put dielectric grease on my boot connections,maybe some else will chime in here.

Have you measure how much resistance in plug wires?

How old is plugs and wires?

How are you testing for spark? NGK plugs and wires?

Rust,check under car,maybe from rust belt.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, have you cut open your oil filter and check for debris.

Did you do what GD said, put oil in cylinders and crank a bunch,this will oil the valves and rings?

Take head into dark room,shine flash light into exhaust port, do you see light coming threw? Maybe sticky valves,oil them.

Very good other pp that's what I was trying to say.

It was oviusly in front end collision,what does copart have to say about this?

When you crank it over is tensioner jumping around or holding steady?

Make sure test equipment is working properly,how does compression test look?

Sounds like spun rod bearing from very low oil, does oil light come on a lot?

Mine does to, I think that is power band kicking in.