Trident

If you look under the car just in front of the passenger side rear wheel you'll find the fuel pump and filter mounted on a flat plate. Once you deal with the fuel lines and electrical connector for the fuel pump, you can unbolt the plate and remove the whole assembly.

Here's a pic, courtesy of TomRhere if I remember correctly. The end of the red arrow shows where the rod's come disconnected from.

The arm came off the blend door. I assumed the plastic gears were at fault initially but I wasn't that lucky.

SSIA. After a week or so of using the heat this fall in my Subaru it has decided to blow cold. Much to my dismay, I've found the arm that actuates the blend door has come unhooked. As we all know there's not a lot of room to work down there......anybody got any tricks to reattach it?

Nice! I believe I see a few Stealie decals as well

1st long term update I've put about 4,000 mi on the Subaru since spring and just returned from a 1,300mi trip to WV to raft the upper Gauley river. Hauled me, a friend and all our gear with nary a whimper. I am burning a little less than 1/2 qt every 500 miles. A month ago I did end up taking the dash out to hopefully finish off what the mice had started so long ago. Mounted a Pioneer mechless deck which has worked flawlessly as well.

It's because the uploaded photos are no longer at the link posted. Most likely deleted, etc.

here ya go

175/70R13 Winter Force Arctic Claws. Around 3k miles so far and they've performed well

Got the heaterbox removed and wow.......all I can say is disgusting. Here's a few pics Dash off Yuck Hoping to start reassembly tonight

After putting about 2k troublefree miles on my EA82 wagon post-engine pull/rebuild, I started the job of pulling the dash to clean the HVAC ducts,etc. due to a mice infestation. The car had sit for 6-7 years before I got it. I'm down to pulling the center stack/heater box and I'm having a heck of a time getting it out. I've got the 2 10mm bolts out of the top and the heater core disconnected but having trouble clearing everything to get it out. As far as I can tell I need to pull the heater core lines thru the firewall at the same time as I'm pulling the box over that lower "mount" it sits on. Maybe I'm not holding my mouth right....

Update: Found #4 exhaust valve stuck, a few light taps with a hammer freed it right up. New HLA installed, resealed the cam tower, etc. Put it all back together (including a new alternator) and she's running top! There was some small chatter from the new HLA upon start-up but it quieted down fairly quickly.

After pulling off the cam tower I've found the HLA is basically collapsed. At least, it can depress a considerable amount. I'll post a video soon Any tips for pumping one up?

I used a decent amount of assembly lube, heck I even had the engine pulled out for the reseal and truly thought I had secured them. Just goes to show you don't ever know. I will say, this is the first time I've ever pulled an engine, repaired it & reinstalled it or anything close. Oh well, if I gotta re-do the cam tower....so be it

Well, I've pulled my driver's side valve cover off and what do ya know...#4 rocker is laying in the bottom of the valve cover. How to proceed? Rotate the motor til I get enough space to slide it back in? Hopefully this is possible with everything as it is presently.

well I'm still gonna have to take it off to remove the head and have it fixed, correct? I should've just taken the heads in and had them redone when I resealed the motor. I just cleaned them & resurfaced them with sandpaper using the "post apocalyptic" thread as a guide.

Thanks naru for the part #s !! So, while removing plug wires while running the popping completely goes away when #4 is disconnected. Pop the valve cover off and have a look?

Yeah, I went back after I posted that and found FI in the description. Part # is 22100aa121 on my disty Here's a new video I shot. Quality is head & shoulders above the other vid, partially due to the new y-pipe installed.

22162AA040 Cap 22157AA051 Rotor Could these be it?

Yes the EGR is unplugged now. I cut & welded both of the EGR/ASV/whatevers coming off the bottom of the cylinder heads. While fooling with it last night, I think we have it narrowed down to timing...specifically the distributor or cap/rotor. The cap/rotor have not been replaced during this project so I was going to start there. Can anyone tell me the OEM part numbers for the cap & rotor?

Hey fellas, sorry for the delay. Won't bore you with the details so I'll get to it Compression test completed Cylinder #1 155 Cylinder #3 130 Cylinder #2 155 Cylinder #4 145 I'm gonna take that to mean it's not a valve problem. Edited to add: It won't pop when its cold.....or pops very little. As the engine warms up the popping increases in frequency and intensity

Sorry I've been away guys, my wagon's sat at an exhaust shop for the better part of last week awaiting repair/replacement of the y-pipe/cat converter. The bottom of the front cat was almost completely rotten. I think that's where it sat for years full of coolant from the leaking head gaskets. Sad to say, my exhaust guy must've gotten in trouble or something....he won't weld pipe where a cat used to be Anyways, I ordered a new Davico replacement y-pipe/cat that will be delivered tomorrow. I haven't yet. Once I install the new y-pipe I will Gloyale, are you sure it's not 3--4 1--2 instead? I bought the carb from www.webercarbsdirect.com I sincerely hope it's genuine I did indeed rotate the crank between belts. Yes, all new plugs & wires during the reseal. The new NGK wires I got even have the cylinder #s printed on them! haha

Another day, same problems. Fiddled with the distributor, plug wires, etc last night til I was blue in the face. Ran the ignition timing anywhere from 8-22ish degrees with it running best around 21-22. It still dies when the vacuum advance is pinched/removed from the distributor. The popping even manages to blow off the Heater control line I'm running off the intake. While reading this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/75774-weber-install-backfire-from-intake/ it seems the same problem I'm running into. However, the thread died before any solution was posted. The more mechanics I talk to seem to think I've got a stuck or burned intake valve. I sincerely hope this isn't it.

Yes, there are 2 different sets of marks on the flywheel. The first, a set of 3 lines that are for the valve/cam timing and then you have your TDC, etc marks for the ignition timing. After last night I am certain the valves are in time, so I'll re-do the distributor, plug wires, etc tonight. When I resealed this engine I took off the driver's side cam assembly & distributor off together. Perhaps the distributor position was indeed fouled up during that process. One thing I forgot, when we set the timing after the weber install, we forgot to unplug the vacuum advance from the disty per the underhood instructions. Last night when we started it up we found that pulling the advance hose off the disty caused the motor to die.

Belts off, re-timed and back on.......no change. Could an exhaust leak really cause this much trouble?....because I'm nearing the end of my knowledge. Now plugging the EGR/ASV with quarters, is this done right at the outlets on the cylinder heads? Between plugging them and trailering it up to the exhaust shop to fix the front cat I'm not sure what else to do.