bopp
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Everything posted by bopp
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In case this is useful for someone, the alt shop guys called this part the "extender" and said mine was a Hitachi, though he initially thought it was a Mitsubishi. So I needed a Hitachi extender.
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Alright, car is running! I took the battery to AutoZone for charging and it tested bad...I really hope they weren't lying to get me to buy a new battery...but I bit the bullet and got a new one. Battery reads 12.5v and when running it reads 14v showing good charge from the alt. Thanks for all your help!
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Local alternator rebuilding shop pulled the stud out of an old alt and gave it to me for free - those guys are great (Morton Grove Auto Electric for anybody in North/West Chicagoland). Put it back in the car and it still won't start, so I'm off to AutoZone to get the battery charged - pretty sure I ran it down throughout this process. I'll update again... Thanks!!
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The small screwdriver as prybar was a great tip - nut came off almost immediately. Should have thought of that! Now then, with a couple of retaining nuts removed, I was able to remove the stud assembly and get to the stud itself! (Somebody thought of this in the design process and made it easy.) So, I need a replacement for this thing below. The threads are totally messed up - it is not salvageable. Does this thing have a name? Who might have one? Your help thus far and going forward is so very much appreciated!!
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Cool, glad to have an explanation for this! Good lesson in tightening things down. The issue now is getting the nut off the stud, as it will neither tighten nor come loose...
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Photo below. You can see the corrosion on the nut and on the inside of the black rubber "boot". Before I realized the nut and stud threads were messed up, I flipped the nut around and tried putting it back on...now it won't tighten nor come off. (Awesome.) So I cut the wire (since the spade connectors look trashed anyway), pulled the alt, and will take it somewhere tomorrow to see about getting the stud replaced. Anybody have any experience doing this?
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Friends, I have a '93 Legacy wagon with 230k. In early February I swapped my failing alternator with the '96 reman (see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142320-weird-electrical-pulsing-93-legacy-wagon/ for details). Yesterday, I was driving home from work, and I could tell something was very goofy with the electrical system (started funny, delay/loss of power in acceleration, blinkers sounded weird). When I got home and shut off the engine, it would not restart - won't even turn over at all. This is the exact behavior I had recently when a squirrel chewed through my alternator wire - which I repaired. My assumption, therefore, was that my splice had come loose somehow, or some other wiring issue. The two-wire connector is just fine...reading a little under 12V to the battery and also impedance is 0 to the battery. So that's not it. However, the big two-wire socket connector on the top - weird stuff there. I just put this in a few months ago, and the nut and bolt are super corroded. I removed the nut and found that it had partially fused with the bolt - both are screwed up and I cannot get the nut to tighten down anymore. Appears the bolt may have to be replaced...if that's even possible...I'm going to get a free AAA tow to my mechanic on Monday morning. The big question is: what would cause rapid corrosion and metal fusing on that connector?? Could it be related somehow to using a different alt than spec? A sign of a different electrical problem? Also, could this possibly have anything to do with my latest squirrel problem? (see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146230-93-legacy-code-21-coolant-temperature-sensor/) (I have since added split tubing to EVERY exposed wire under the hood. Sigh.) THANKS!!!
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Well, egg is on my face...my initial splice job came undone...sensor is fine and CEL is gone.
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I need your help, friends. I have a '93 Legacy L wagon, 230k. Yesterday morning, after not driving it for 48 hours, it started very rough (almost couldn't get it started) and CEL was on. Drove to work and left a few hours later; warmer start was much better but still rough. My local shop did not have the right connector to read the CEL code but recommended a fuel filter; it had been 80k since replacement so I had them do it. Warm start was fine, but cold start later in the day was rough again. Google and YouTube educated me on the awesome self-diagnostic mode on this car, and using this I figured out that the code is 21 - Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit. Upon inspection, the wires leading to the sensor were halfway chewed through (second time a squirrel has wreaked havoc now...). Tonight I cut, spliced, and plugged back into the sensor, thinking I'm golden. No go - still a rough cold start and CEL is on. Self-diagnostic mode reveals code 21 is still active. I tried clearing the code, but was unsuccessful - either I'm doing it wrong, or the code is still triggering. (There is disagreement on the internet about how exactly to clear the codes...connecting the green and black lead pairs in different combinations, gas pedal down, to halfway for 2 seconds, then up...driving over 7 MPH for 10 minutes and then rev to over 2,000 RPM...I tried this....) Need advice on how to proceed. If the sensor is fine and this was a wiring problem, will I still get the rough start (due to the car assuming it is hot for fuel delivery?) until the code is cleared? If so, what's the correct procedure for clearing the code? Could also be that the sensor is itself bad...but I want to make sure of this before replacement. I've read about testing it with an ohmmeter, but it's virtually impossible to get my multimeter leads in the right places without taking the thing out. Thanks for your help!!!
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Installed the new alt today - couldn't have been any easier. The new plug went on great with some crimpable connectors, and I'm going to put some split conduit on it tomorrow to clean it up. THANK YOU for all your assistance! What a fantastic money-saving modification! It'll be $90 total when I'm done.
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The plug/wiring harness from the '96 is perfect - $5 and I was out the door. Got the reman alt today as well. I'll update after I do the swap! Thanks so much!!
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eulogious: Got it, thanks for that clarification! Do you happen to know what year Subaru switched to the rectangular plug? My local yard has a '96 Legacy - will that have the right plug, or is it still the round one? I can go check...when it isn't below 0 out here in Chicago... Thanks so much for all your help!!
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Cougar, thanks for your reply! The issue here is that the plug on my '93 alt is different from the '97 reman plug (so I'm told), so I need the '97 plug in order to do the swap. I'm trying to figure out if the reman alt will come with the plug (unlikely), or if I need to order one from the dealer or find one at a pick 'n pull.
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eulogius, thanks so much for your message and link! I've got the reman alt on order from my dealer for $85 out the door. I have one major question. Does the reman alt come with a plug or wiring harness? If not, where can I get the correct plug end to splice into the existing wiring? Can I order that from the dealer as well? (Am I missing something here?) Thanks!
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Thanks everybody for your assistance!! When I turn the key without starting, the check engine light turns on, does not blink, and there is no relay click. Quick visual inspection of the wires under the fuse box yields nothing, but I will check again more thoroughly. Three follow-up questions: 1. Is it safe to let this problem go, potentially until the alternator fails more spectacularly, or am I risking damage to the electrical system, etc? 2. Does it make sense that the bad diode would only act up in cold weather? I did not see this problem today when it is 50 F outside, as opposed to 30-40F earlier this week. 3. Where do you recommend getting a replacement alternator? I'm seeing a lot of bad things about rebuilt alts from chain shops. Is an OEM unit from junkyard the best bet? Thanks!!
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I need some help with an odd electrical issue. (I could not find any existing threads on this, but please point me toward them if they exist!) This is a 1993 Legacy L Wagon with 226k. About a year ago, during the cold Chicago winter, I started noticing the following behavior. At random times, the entire electrical system in the car experiences what seems to be a pulsating voltage change, like a sine wave, at around 80-120 Hz. All the lights pulsate bright-dim bright-dim in unison, and I can hear the cabin fan spin faster/slower in unsion with the lights. Sometimes, the Brake warning light on the instrument cluster will flash on and off in unison as well. I know that the Brake light coming on is a failure mode for the alternator. The alternator is quite new and I had it and the rest of the charging system checked last year - it's all fine. I replaced the battery (needed it anyway) and also the plugs and wires (was having a starting problem). No change. Over the summer, I did not notice this issue. This week, as the cold sets in again (30-50 F), I see the same issue. The only suggestion I've heard is to check the grounds, but since the issue seems related to cold weather, I'm not sure that is the issue. I will have them checked at next service. Any ideas on this? Thanks!
