SS_Subi

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!

Congrats!

Yeah cold temps can do some crazy things... Ok… Here are the specs I was able to dig up. Resistance should be 7-11.5 kilo-ohms at approximately 14F Resistance should be 2-3 kilo-ohms at approximately 68F Resistance should be 700-1000 ohms at approximately 122F Now… Seeing as how you are up in Alaska and the temps are lower right now then what the readings specify you could simply buy a new sensor, leave it under the hood for a while (overnight?), and then take a resistance reading of both sensors to compare them side by side. Not sure what the parts houses will do for you up there but I know the parts houses down here won't take an electrical part back IF they can tell it was previously installed. Good luck.

The coolant temp sensor can be checked with a multimeter taking an ohm resistance reading. You'll take one reading cold and one reading at normal operating temp. I don't have the specs off hand but I can get them if you need them.

First thing I would check would be the area you were working in to re-install the water pump belt… Did you bump something loose, unplug something, or possibly break a connector? If you didn't overheat the engine badly and it was running fine before you replaced the belt chances are your issue is going to be there. Other questions… Is the engine misfiring at all when idling? Is the engine popping from the intake or backfiring? Is the engine holding a regular temp now? Even though the engine didn't get into the red did you lose any coolant?

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!

If it was running before installing the new battery and shorting it out you have something else more then likely causing it not to get fuel… WIll it fire when you spray starting fluid, carb spray, or some fuel in the intake??

First things first… you should replace your fusible links. Don't bypass them with standard wires or you may fry something else on accident or cause a fire.

So I'm sure you've already checked these things so forgive me if I sound condescending . 1) Did you check the fuses for continuity (not just a visual check)? 2) Did you look for any blown fusible links? These should be checked with a multimeter for continuity too. 3) Are the battery cable terminals in good shape? Any corrosion or carbon build up from shorting can prevent it the cables from conducting. If all of these check out ok I would take a test light and check for power at the fuse block. If you find that you have no power at the fuse block start tracing your way back to the battery to see where the break in the circuit is.

Do you have any power anywhere? Lights, radio, etc.??

Wheel spacers can be safe but just like any other mod you do to your car there will be precautions to take. Make sure you get quality spacers and make sure when you install them you torque down the wheels properly. In some of the larger vehicles I've built we saw some premature hub/bearing wear but the vehicles were also much MUCH heavier.

Yeah… the computer has to go through a "relearn" sequence whenever you clear the computer.

I used to manage a shop back home (Idaho) and this is what I did as the service manager. It's difficult to nail it down in comparison to the other shops in most areas because they will charge book time plus a percentage to help allow some wiggle room. So if a shop quoted a job that called for 1 hour they may actually quote the price for the job at 1.2 hours. The job you are looking to do should be roughly 4 hours book time for the timing belt… You can include the time for the idlers and tensioners if you want in this time but I would recommend adding .1 to .2 hours per seal you replace. Add .3 hours to the job for replacement of the water pump. Also… the book time for replacing the timing belt kit would include the time for removing the radiator first. So… if you wanted to shave some time off for that you could. If I were doing this for a friend of a friend or even a potential back yard customer. I would simply charge 3 hours and bust it out in 2.5. Leaving me .5 hours paid to enjoy my beer

The idle air control solenoid/valve doesn't have anything to do with this issue. Your vehicle is equipped with a CVVT engine (Continuously Variable Valve Timing) which is designed to both enhance performance and efficiency. Most of these systems utilize a combination of electronic control and the engines oil to help vary the engines timing to meet the computers demands. When your engine oil gets low, too old, sludged up, or even is the wrong weight it can effect the CVVT systems functionality. I would recommend making sure the engine oil is full… Drive it for one tank of fuel and check the oil again. If the engine oil is getting VERY dark very quickly change the oil and the filter. The oil will darken and discolor naturally, but if it's turning black quickly you may have some build up that just needs to be worked out. Ultimately though… Keep an eye on that oil level and you'll be fine

Check your CV axles as well… it's not common BUT if they have torn boots or are missing the bands and the grease has leaked out they can bind up. It's not as common as the ball joints, tie rods, control arms, or even struts. But it does happen. Keeping a shop honest is as simple as asking them to take you out and show you. I'm from Boise and managed a shop there until I changed careers. Les Schwabb does an ok job but they are there to make money just like any other shop. If they won't show you the problems with your car then you should seek a second opinion.

I agree with IMDEW… More then likely it's a loose or corroded ground. It is entirely possible the regulator in the alternator is failing. But flickering or dimming lights usually has to do with poor grounding.

So Bratman do you have any sources or information on building that 2" lift. I'm all for building one just need to do it on a budget. I don't mind spending the money either… It just may take a little longer.

So I have an 89 GL that I'm looking to lift and I see all of these mods going on calling for making brackets and others calling for expensive lift kits. Is there anyway to do an economy lift (2"- 4") with different springs/strut assemblies? Do you take these from donor cars or are you getting them built? Thoughts???

You can't go wrong with too much airflow. Another idea would be to modify the engine bay to allow for hot air to escape easier. I used to run a Jeep Cherokee with the 4.0 and had to modify the hood by spacing it up in the rear by the hinges to allow hot air to escape. Made a world of difference.