Mudboat

Let's try this... I've uploaded a few pictures showing the block under the intake, the water pump, intake manifold and a front view.. Can you tell me anything from these photos? Oh, and that's the disty you sold me.. Thanks!! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=8086

I have a low milage EA71 that I'm rounding up parts for. I thought I had the right gasket kit ordered but was informed that there are different kits for different years (never heard this before). The engine block is stamped EA71 with the numbers 850247... Can anyone tell me the year of the motor? Thanks........

- Pull the disty, turn it over and dump out the water.. Then dry it out with a blow dryer. - Change your plugs - Double check the timing. - Check the compression. You may have cracked a head if the engine was submerged when it was hot. - Check the oil for signs of water. - Hitachi carbs are pretty reliable for the most part. If it seems to be dumping fuel, forget the kits and let a shop rebuilt it professionally. I once did the kit thing twice before I sent the carb out to a shop. No problems with it since. Some problems just can't be fixed with a kit.

I've always felt that anyone who keeps a dog permanently on a chain doesn't need to be owning a dog anyway. If I was the dog, I would have probably done the same thing just to have something to do.

I need a distributor for an EA71 engine. I heard that EA-81 distys work. I prefer an electronic over points..

My opinion: Sell me the 84 with the spare engine and trannys for $700 and go and get that 88..

I concur with the replies on the Weber 32/36. I have one on my EA81 in my boat and it runs great (tuning takes patience though). Webers are priced high because of very limited production resulting from a lingering labor strike at their factory in Spain. In fact, new 32/36 carbs currently in the states are ALL we will get until the strike settles and full production resumes according to a distributor I talked to when I was looking to buy one. I paid right at $400 3 months ago for the carb and adapter kit. If you have a 2bbl Hitachi right now, the Weber conversion is simple and easy. If you have the 1bbl Carter Weber, you'll need a manifold for the hitachi carb before you do a conversion. Personally, I'd pull the carb and send it to a shop and get a professional rebuild for under $200 before going with an expensive weber. I went to the Weber because my Hitachi needed a rebuild, and all the carb shops in my area (New Orleans) went under 6' - 10' of water after the hurricane.

Disregard question. I found out that engine rotation doesn't matter with Borg Warner 1.1 ratio 71 series transmissions. They work with RH or LH engines..

I'm planning to put a Borg Warner Velvet Drive marine transmission in my soob powered boat. I've ran it straight drive for a few years, but decided to go with the flow and put in a transmission. I found one on ebay, but the seller says that it was coupled to a "Left Hand" V-8. When I asked, he told me that the engine rotation is counter clockwise when facing the flywheel. My boat is still in the marsh for hunting season right now, so I can't get to it until Saturday to verify the rotation... Pardon my ignorance, but I can't remember if the engine rotates clockwise or counter clock wise when facing the flywheel. I need to verify that the soob engine rotates in the proper direction before I bid on this transmission. anyone?

A few years had the Carter/Weber carbs on them in a few models. I have an EA-81 that had one, but immediately bought another manifold and put a Hitachi on it and yes, I had to re-route my throttle cable. I didn't use a cable for a Hitachi, instead I used 1/4" stainless tubing as a cable shield and used 1/8" stainless wire rope for the cable. I pumped the tubing with grease to minimize friction and it works really slick. I since changed the Hitachi to the Weber 32/36.

Easy to work on, troubleshoot and repair. If you blow out the engine, you can always find one for a couple hundred bucks somewhere. And the BEST thing about a soob is coming in here with a question about a problem you can't solve. Someone always has the answer..

A restriction in the fuel system somewhere, or you may have air entering through a fitting upstream of the fuel pump. Check all hose connections and make sure you're not sucking air into the fuel pump. Make sure the fuel filter is indeed clean, even though you had it changed. Check fuel pump flow and pressure. Pressure should be under 4 psi. You may also want to pull the top of the card apart and make sure your needle and seat is not hanging up. You may need to put a carb kit on it..

Also don't rule out a cracked head if you have confidence in the gaskets. How about the heater core? A leak may be un-detectable, but you'll be able to smell coolant inside of the vehicle.. Your radiator cap may also need replacing? The pressure retaining spring may be weak... Just brainstorming possibilities here...

I wanted to grind off and weld up the vacuum ports when I switched from a carter weber to a hitachi last year, but my mig-rig was out of argon at the time and I didn't feel like making the 30 mile round trip to swap out the bottle. If I find a need to pull the intake off again, I'll be cleaning it up also...

Tell your buddy with the Dodge to come back and talk smack when he has 275,000 miles on it (will never happen), and then ask him who much he's spent on gas and how many times he's been stuck in the mud. Respect is earned, not by trying to impress others....

Change thermostat and flush the cooling system first. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to replace head gaskets.

EA-81 and EA-82 engines can both be run without the ECM. That is all we use in our hunting boats in South Louisiana. No emmissions testing on hunting boats. A weber 3236 has one vacuum port that runs to the the disty. Every other vac port on the intake should be plugged. We remove the EGR and plug the ports also. One valve cover piped to the PCV and the other either vented to atmosphere.

That's correct the stock linkage off of the Hitachi fits right on there... Caution: Do not overtighten the nut on the linkage shaft. Should be finger tight snug and locked with the lock ring. As far as jets, give these guys a call http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ . They can get you the correct jets, adapter and rebuild kit just for asking.. They're very knowledgable about the Webers...

I towed a 16' trailer loaded with 25 sheets of treated 3/4" plywood one time with my old Brat. Trailer didn't have electric or surge brakes. The load pushed me clean through a red light when I had to brake suddenly. Talk about scary!!! going 25 mph being pushed by a loaded trailer with the tires locked up and squealing. If you do decide to tow, I would only use a trailer that is equipped with surge brakes that are properly adjusted for the weight. It just may save your life. If you're traveling through mountains or foothills... FORGET IT!! Borrow or rent a big vehicle to tow with... Tow the Beamer and drive back. Return the vehicle and drive the soob to Az.. Lots of road time and gas, but your chances of surviving the trip will be improved 100%...

Clean ride... Good job!

ECM is fried, or you have a burnt wire or a bad connection in your ignition. 18 volts wouldn't normally burn up wiring, but it's possible I suppose. 18 volts will burn out components in the computer. Before I start replacing all sorts of expensive electronics, I would have the alternator and voltage regulator checked out.

A late update due to the start of hunting season... I finally took out the boat and ran it for a while to tune the carb. Played with the idle mixture and timing until everything was running smooth. Not too difficult to adjust the 32/36. According to the instructions, if the idle mixture screw is out more than 2-1/2 turns to get it tuned, then the carb more than likely needs the next size up in larger jets to get the most out of it. I have the screw set at about 3-1/4 turns to get it running smooth, but it runs fine like it is. Good low end response and high end performance. After using the boat for a couple of weeks, I do find one nice thing about the Weber... It does not burn near as much fuel as the old Hitachi. In summary: The conversion to the Weber was relatively simple to do. Tuning was fairly easy, but took a bit of time to get it just right. Better performance AND better fuel efficiency. I will honestly say that it was money well spent..

I wish i could help ya on that... My engine is in a boat. All vacuum ports are plugged except for the carb port to the vacuum advance..

I had to repair 2 on an EA-81. NAPA had the correct HeliCoil for the job. Just be careful drilling and tapping for the insert... Not too hard of a job if you take your time. Don't rush it, and get a new head gasket. I re-used a head gasket once, and it bit me... I know a guy that re-used a head gasket last year on his EA-81 in a boat. He started blowing exhaust gas into his coolant about 8 miles back in the marsh... Not fun spending a night in the marsh...

I don't know if I would tackle a rebuild on a Roo... It is not a small-block Chevy.. By the time you actually find and pay for all the necessary parts, you migh be better off getting a rebuilt. CCR will ship a complete rebuilt long block from Co. for about $1K plus shipping.. I plan to get one next spring and swap it out with mine.. Another option is a used EA82... You can find them all over with "advertised" low miles for under $800..