A_DuB

+1 to calling cops douches But seriously how much does that thing weigh?

What? Do you mean the trim like piece surrounding the sunroof? I've tried to pull this down/out but it doesn't want to go.

yes both of them. It seems to be stuck around the sunroof:banghead:

Ok I have got everything off the headliner and it still wont come down. I took off all the trim pieces, the map and dome lights, the rearview mirror, and the passenger "OH $hit" handles. What else am I missing, Why wont my headliner come out, How does it defy gravity?????

ive had a high idle for quite some time but if i let it just sit and idle for a minute or two it seems to drop to normal levals

That's exactly what I was thinking:brow: thanks allzzzzzzz. Umm as for the electrical connections what would be a good way to insulate them? Just wrap them up in electrical tape and try repositioning them higher up in the engine bay?

A friend of mine has an 89 GL Wagon that we've been working on (replacing timing belt and idle pulley) and he was wondering if I could help him rig up some sort of Deep Water Kit for it. I told him it might be possible and that I would look into it. I've done a search and didn't come up with anything promising and was just wondering if any one has tried this on an 89 GL Wagon that has SPFI.

I use felpro for all my gaskets if possible.

Ok got it all fixed. The reason I was doing this was to replace the broken trunk release knob. Turns out you have to pull the levers/knobs straight off, not up and off like I did to my door to the gas tank knob but i think that will be fine just a little bit of a wiggle. As for the broken trunk release knob it was glued or cocked on there by the previous owners, so I had to take a dermal to the part that over hung the cover and then chiseled the rest off with a screw driver and hammer. After that I vacuumed out the entire car (I'm a clean freak) and put it all back together. The new trunk release knob that i got from 1stsubaruparts.com was slightly a different shade (blue opposed to the original gray) but who the hell cares.

Nevermind i just broke it off:banghead:

Ummm... the plastic pieces on mine have a pin or a screw holding the knob/tab on there i think. I dont wanna breakem by yanking on em:-\

Does anyone know how to get the release handle trim cover off. It's the part on the left hand side of the dirvers seat on the floor. I already took out the two screws. I cant figure out how to get the lever for the door to the gas cap off. Is it just a push pin or a set srew (like allenwrench or phillips).

Good to Know :cool: Thanks Josh

I was going to replace the Knock Sensor in my car and ordered parts off of http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/. Stupid me ordered the wrong gaskets Exhaust Manifold. So my question is Are the intake manifold gaskets the same for turbo and non-turbo on 91 legacy.

Your good to go on the exhaust and intake but forget about putting a turbo in. I dont think that the non-turbo are nearly as strong as the ej22t block, I bleave. Anyway it wouldnt even be any fun with automatic;) . Vist http://www.rallitek.com/index.asp for your exhaust and intake.

A very good friend of mine rolled his dads 2005 Legacy GT :-\ and the side air bags didnt go off. He's fine , his dad is a little tweaked , and the car was totaled:banghead: . Admittedly my friend was speeding on a gravel road and not wearing his seat belt but the side air bags should have gone off. I did a quick search of the Message Boards to see if this had been discussed already but all that came up was a thread on how 5000 of the first Legacy Outbacks side air bags didn't work. Im thinking that this may be a bigger issue than previously thought.

Pulled the EGI Fuse again and let the car sit overnight, got the same codes this morning 22 Knock sensor, and 23 MAF sensor. The knock sensor was a pain to find and even harder to get the connector apart. When the book says there should be no continuity they mean none what so ever, Right? It had a little continuity so I guess ill have to get a new knock sensor and gaskets for the intake manifold, unless I can get to it without taking out the manifold. The MAF still had battery voltage and I don't have a SCAN tool to check its Grams per second. Does my Haynes book mean a diagnostic Scanner when they refer to a "Scan tool?" And is there any other way to check to see if the MAF sensor is working correctly. I took out the snorkel a while back ago that wouldn't cause the sensor to malfunction would it?

Well I took out the EGI Fuse, let the car sit for about half an hour and did U-check diagnostic again. This time the codes did repeat two long two short, two long three short, two long two short, two long three short. So I guess that the Knock sensor should be checked out, but could the MAF sensor code show up because of a broken vacuum leak? Took the EGI fuse back out and put it right back in and tried to do D-check. When I turned over the car it blinked 5 times real quick repeatedly and by the time I was finished driving around it was just blinking steadily. But I had fun getting up to 50 in a 35 since I don't live right by a freeway :cool: When I should I have had the clutch in?

So you don't think I'm reading the codes properly. Let me get this striaght should the OBD quit blinking the CEL after giving me the codes, or does it repeate all the codes stored in its memory till it is shut off? I LL just explain what I did to get to the point inwitch I am in. Step one: Go outside open car door. Step two: Look under drivers side of dash pannel and pulg black connectors together for U-check mode. Step three: Put key in the ignition and turn to on position (not running) Step Four: CEL goes Blink... Blink... Blink, Blink, Blink... Blink, Blink, Blink, Blink... Blink, Blink, Blink, Blink... Blink, Blink, Blink, Blink... = Long blink of CEL Blink, = Short Blink of CEL Sorry Josh couldn't find D-check instructions on your site.

Got a couple questions regarding OBD I and a CEL. I know that the green connectors are for the D-check mode and black are for U-check mode. But besides that what is the actual differences in them. In D-check are your suppose to drive the car or start it and when will it give me the codes. As far as U-check mode goes do I disregard the first blinks that I get and go with the steady blinking code. The reason I ask is because the fist code I get is 22 (knock sensor) but after that it just keeps repeating 13 (Cam angle sensor). Should I just go ahead and check the resistance on the camshaft sensor and does the car need to be running when I do this check?

Stop on a really steep hill and put the clutch in and see if you start rollin backwards:lol:

Sounds like you need a new plug wire:drunk:

While reading a guest book on another Subaru legacy related website I came across this statement. "FYI the manual tranny's cant handle even the stock power..so if your going to beef one up it needs to be the auto" Does anyone know if this guy is just talkin out his @$$ or do i need to upgrade the tranny before I do any performance Mods. Doesn't make sense to me that Subaru would make a car to powerful for its own transmission.

Found it http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/216894 check this guys page not sure if he still has the rims but you can find out on your own time