Ross

Volume Air Flow - The flappy door sensors like the ea81t and early ea82t uses measures air volume, as opposed to the late ea82t hot wire sensor which effectively measures mass flow rate.

Sorry about the delay, i have to use dial up at my new flat so i don't get on often.... I got most of my parts from Repco - if you go in there enough they'll give you a good discount, and they can get most parts. I wasn't able to get new valve springs, you may have to go custom for them....or go to subaru - their prices are good for some things, eg gaskets. Lifters were another thing i wasn't able to get anywhere other than subaru, and at nz$470 a set plus a three month wait it just wasn't worth it. I got my cam reground to factory specs for nz$70ish, kelford cams, plenty of places that do them around. Shouldn't cost any more for a different profile grind as long as you know what you want.. Crank journal grinding is tricky, because they are so narrow very few places can do them - only place i know of is Chrischurch Engine Specialists, they were very good to deal with.

Get new bearings anyway, i got mine for like, NZ$130 ( mains and big ends) and then you know its all good. When i had my ea81t apart (bearings all slogged out, no oil pressure, black gunky crap all through the engine) the hone still looked almost new after 150,000kms, so dont judge too much on that.... But if the carbon came off pistons easily, then it probably is pretty newish. One of my pistons had small dents in it (looks like maybe the tip of a spark plug got loose) and i was told not to worry about it.

Both ea81t and ea82t do have fuel cuts.... ea81t i think is just when the vaf signal gets too high..

Its not a dashpot, its a diaphragm actuator. You can get them reconditioned (ie new diaphragm) for cheap.

Although if you are using an oil like 15w30, as opposed to say a 15w50, 30psi would be quite acceptable at 2500. and 15psi is heaps at idle. Pressure doesn't matter too much, since the bearings create their own pressure due to skin friction. As long as it doesn't drop below around 3 or 4 psi at idle its fine.

I've got a spare thats had a broken valve beat it up, i should cut it up.....

The NZ didn't even get egr 'till some time in the mid to late '80s.......

The bolt doesn't hold any torque though, the pulley is keyed on the shaft.

Where does the coolant supply come from on the ea82t? I know on the ea81t, it comes out of the head drain bung, need to analize the internal flow charcteristics of the head to see if thats causing any less flow around #3 or not.... Anyone keen to do a 3d model of the head, so i can do some CFD analysis on it??? IIRC, the ea82t's return goes to the thermostat housing, just like the ea81t, which is already the best place for it - straight to the radiator. I suspect that the overheating prob in that cylinder may be more to do with radiative heat transfer between the turbo and head...

Yeah, thats the way, shouldn't take too long if you're using a 3d package like solidworks/inventor..... Doubt you're gonna find someone with pre drawn plans tho...... You might have to get the vernier out!

Yeah i know you can easily get the standard dual carb setup, but thats not what they are talking about. I really doubt that it would be worth modifying the standard heads to be four port - heaps of prototyping and flow bench work (unless you have access to CFD software??) would be needed to get satisfactory performance. Sub4 offers their (proven) parts so cheap it seems a waste of time to me.

Yes, but the chance of finding those parts (twin carb setup with no crossover) in New Zealand is almost zero.

Something to consider: It was mentioned above that the intake runners should be short as possible - its not quite that simple. If all you're worried about is high rpm performance, that is the case, but you will be sacrificing low end performance, something most ea81 drivers arn't willing to do. NZers, do a google search for Sub4, they do similar stuff as ramengines (4 port dual spark heads, dual carb manifolds, injection manifolds etc) - somewhere in the North island i think.

I'd be cheking that ignition coil.

I'd say its the wiper control relay going bad. When mine did it, it used to kill the ignition circuit at the same time!

It will get much hotter than 300F. Up to around 1200F.

Check that it goes into closed loop.... once it (the o2 sensor) warms up the light on the ecs should flash quickly.

Why would two sets of rings fail? I could understand it if it were 1 cylinder only, or all four, but two? I notice that you didn't resurface the block deck..........could cause a prob with the HG if the previous leak had damaged the surface. (i'm not saying you should have had the block re-surfaced - that would have been much more work with having to strip the bottom end down).

Just get the beer - the swearing will follow.

its a steel thing, botlts on on top of the water pump, using two of the wp bolts. They're easy to put on with the engine on a bench, maybe harder with it in the car....

Exactly!!

Ahh, thanks naru. Seems to do it in both closed and open loop. Cant notice it when the high idle is going though. I'll definitely get the injectors done when i have the cash.........might be a few weeks though.

Its certainly not suppoed to act like that, but it could be a number of things causing it......... If it drives fine otherwise, its probably not plugs/wires/dist cap, but its always worth checking. I would second checking the choke, thats definitly a possiblity. A cracked vacuum line could also be the culprit.

Update: Done about 600km now - cant drive further till i get some cash for petrol!! Damn student loan people...... Spark plugs have cleared up nicely. Has burnt maybe 100ml of oil. Its still not idling very well - smooth enough, but will vary between 900 and 1100 revs with no obvious cause. Vacuum is only around 18mmHg at idle, used to be more like 20mmHg - I'm not sure if that has something to do with it or not. I am wondering if its just dirty injectors. I'm also not very confident that the throttle stop is adjusted properly - it has a non factory bolt in it, and the butterfly valve seems to wedge itself closed sometimes. Cant find the procedure for adjusting it though...... Valve train is rather noisy. Clearances are adjusted properly, but still doesn't sound right - although it may just be that the injected engine is quieter, making the rocker noise seem louder. Either that, or it is a problem caused by using solid lifters and corresponding cam with push rods and rockers for hydraulic lifters. I'd like to swap them out with some for solid lifters just to make sure at some stage. Other than those little probs, its going very well - good on gas, no smoke out exhaust, heaps of power (haven't quite floored it yet, but still seems much faster than before) and drives very smoothly. Of course, I'm used to the na ea81 with a leaky crap carb that was in there, so its no surprise that this engine seems so great!