Ross

I don't think a subaru driver can hassle anyone about oil leaks!

Sprey some penetrating oil around the joint and leave it overnight. How long prybar are you using? I use one about 1.5m long and its usually easy as.

Just curious as to where you have your exhaust downpipe mounted to on the gearbox? Have mine mounted further back, but I havn't got around to making a bracket for the font mount. I am mainly interested in what bolt on the gearbox you used. Thanks.

Looks like the roof held up ok on the '83! How fast were you when it rolled? Ive seen lesser cars look a lot worse after slow rolls.

If it is only engine speed related (not road speed), and the noise disappears or gets better when your not accelerating, im afraid a crankshaft bearing is a possibility. Could also be an input shaft bearing in your gearbox. Does the vibration occur when you rev the engine on the spot with the clutch pedal depressed? If not, the gearbox is the most likely culprit. If so, an engine bearing may be causing it. An out of balance flywheel would be noticable whether you are accelerating or not, so its probably not that.

I Would start by looking for a bad earth. I presume it is an ea82 style (you said new bulb), in which case i have no idea where that earth is!

The 13s are different to those shelbys i think. The "hub" in the middle is larger than the shelbys and the rim part is different. Mine are an imitation 'cheviot turbo' and came on an 81 GL wagon - the only other cars ive seen them on were also 81 gl wagons - all 'sahara beige' colour like mine. The difference would be clearer if i took a photo of my wheels on a similar angle to those shelbys - ill post it here soon. Cheers.

Spline count should both be the same I think (have doen a 4wd at-5MT DR conversion on an '87 before with no axle change).

Before anyone says anything, no i didn't drive with only two wheel nuts! The car they are on has been stripped of engine gearbox and diff for the moment.

Got some pics of some 4x140 wheeels that dont appear on the wheel page, dont know who looks after that, but they might want to put them on:

I am almost certain that the New Zealand ea81 vehicles were all fitted with the large CV joints (DOJ - what does that stand for???). The vehicles imported second hand from japan (lots of them) have the small ones (except the turbo ones). Strange.

Maybe you need one with a finer hole. Or maybe just put another one in!

Im still trying to get a price out of my dealer (they have no record of this part#!!!), so ill probably hold off till then. If you do find an aftermarket part that would be great, cos i havn't had much luck with that so far! Cheers.

That might be ok, if there are no other signs of significant wear. It's realy a gamble though, the fatigue life of the rod depends on too many factors (severity of knock, presence of stress raisers etc.) to be able to say anything for certain. All I can say, is that if it is going to fail, it will probably do so within the next million or so knocks! After that, you should be fine!

Any 'orifice' connection will do. (thing with small hole in it)

I'm not sure, depends on how bad it is. Best not to wait and see though, a rod through the crankcase would probably ruin your day! Perhaps you should find another motor to put in while you have a good look inside yours?

I was expecting something like that, but it looks like i'm just gonna have to go with it. There are no ea81ts being wrecked in the country that i know of, and there doesn't seem to be an aftermarket part (not that i can find). the original one broke in half when i was removing it, so it's no use. Guess i'll just have to part with the $$

Thanks a lot!

Anyone know this? Its not listed in any aftermarket catalogue, and the subie dealer seems to be unable to find it! I thought maybe someone else with an FSM might know? Thanks!

I have heard that non oem pcv valves are a bad idea... Not sure about the idle, maybe a bad Auxiliary air valve?

I would also be very interested in a comparison chart, as there are some very odd differences! Try looking up "Aluminium" in a American dictionary..........

Brilliant news! Thanks a lot! Pity the knock sensor seems to be a different story!

Same deal with being called brumby in NZ, you'd think they would just stick with one name, wouldn't you! but no, not subaru!

hmmmm, i don't know much about the FT 4wd boxes, but i don't think taking the front axles off will stress it more than it can handle - in some conditions much of hte power probably goes to the rear anyway (not sure how the split is controled - does it have a center diff lock?). Personally, i'd be doing some fidlling to get it handling right in 4wd anyway. With some suspension adjustments/modifications (or not even) an rx should handle pretty well i should think..

I would change to manual, weather the at is the prob or not! Horrible things if you plan on doing highway driving, they have no torque converter lock out, and 3rd is (or seems cos of t/c slip) even lower than 4th on the 4speeds! PLus, the HUGE :rolleyes:100hp or so feels like much more with the manual in!