Ross

Thanks Naru. i'm only paying NZ$13.00 (less than US$10) for the magnet, from subaru!!!! I was expecting to pay 5 times that, so i was pleasently suprised!

Yes, i wil definitely replace the magnet before getting the ignition module, although i would think that the prob would happen more often if this was the cause (only happens a couple of times in a week usually). Im waiting on the magnet for another week or so. Doesn't seem to be too much play in the disty shaft, although i don't have the actual specs for it. Might try another coil too - i have had them fail similar to this. I presume high power coils (epoxy filled type) are a no-no with these elec ignition systems?

I would do, but i try not to deal with subie junkyard around here if i can avoid it - theres only one in town and they are very expensive. I would rather pay a little extra cash for a new part! Thanks for that suggestion Skip, ill check that out. I take it the capacitor can just be removed? Ill also do some grounding checks tonight. I am also tempted to buy the aftermarket ign. module i found in a catalogue that looks the same.... its only NZ$90 (list NZ$250!!) but its non returnable....hmmm.

OK, so every now and then the wagon will quikly "die" then go again. By this i mean that the reference pulse from the igntion module seems to disappear - The tach drops and the engine stops firing. This only happens in short pulses - less than a second. I was thinking that it may be the ignition module, but seeing as it doesn't seem there is an aftermarket replacement and the oem one is so expensive, i want to rule out everything else first. Just looking for some suggestions on what else to check? Cheers.

I have found low range to be of use in deep snow. I find that in high range, there is too much of a gap between 1st and 2nd, and the engine lacks enough power to make changing into 2nd a viable option when plowing through deep snow. When in low range, the gears are closer together, making it easier to keep the car moving... I think the big gap between 1st and 2nd was reduced in the later 4 speeds and 5 speeds though, so this may be irrelevant......

All models were available with a dual range gearbox. You could even get legacies with a D/R gearbox! Myself, i would steer clear of the 3 speed auto, not sure about off road , but it sucks on road! (no torque converter lockout!). I'm not familiar with the 4speed auto, so i can't help you there.

I would check for the water cooling lines - if they are there they are pretty obvious. If not, i'd be looking at a head gasket.

Has anyone ever had a problem with these????

480,000 kms, i found it at a wrecker, it still drove well (apparently), but had been inovoled in a rather major accident. Managed to score a dash and some other stuff from it, all in pretty mint condition!

I'm wanting to find a spare ignition module for the ea81t (the 4 terminal one, same as early ea82t). There is no listing for an aftermarket replacement, but i found a picture of one that looks exactly the same in a catalogue. This is listed as being for some kind of honda. just wonderign if anyone knows if this is the right one, or if there is one available?

If your struts are adjusted up, its normal for it to have funny camber....A shop that does chassis bending will be able to adjust it to some extent though.

I wasn't aware that they have a recirc/bypass valve.... I'm really only familiar with ea81ts, so ill shut up

They don't have stock by pass valves.

watch it, those stubborn spark plugs like to take half the head with them when they come out!!

A by-pass valve does this better! It does the same as a blow off valve, in that it releases the post turbo inlet pressure, but instead of venting it to the atmosphere, it runs it back into the inlet before the turbo. This helps the turbo maintain its speed, while also not confusing your computer.

OEM as in subaru.

Oh, i wouldn't want to rebuild an engine when it had only done 70k either! Should be right, the old ea81s are a sturdy wee beasty. It definitely seems that oem head gaskets are the way to go.

That must be one bad shop..... Its not like its hard to press in a bearing!

Exactly what is this engine? I would be inclined to look into why the head gaskets are going so quickly! I'm sure the enigne will probably go alright without a major rebuild, but will probaly burn some oil and may suffer from low oil pressure because of worn bearings. Have you looked into the price of rigs & bearings? They are usually quite cheap, and it isn't a huge job to do.... Just something to think about anyway.

I think a by-pass valve would work much better, and would be a lot quieter.

OEM. If its been running with water in the oil you should replace all bearings and the piston rings while its out.

You just need to detach the steering rack (i removed mine while doing this, but detaching it at the ball joints would probably do?) and detach the lower control arms from the crossmember (just the long bolts with a 14mm head). This allows the ssupension to be pulled outward or backwards or whatever to get it out of the way. You will already need to detach the lower control arms at one end if you plan to remove the gearbox anyway (to enable you to remove the axles). Have a look, its fairly self explanatory when your under there. I also left the gearbox crossmember attached to the gearbox while lowering, as it gives another good place to put a jack. Give me a yell if you have any questions!

If your going to replace the transmission, just drop the entire engine/trans assembly out the bottom in one peice. It really is much easier and less time consuming. Leave the enigne crossmember attached to the engine and drop that out with it (it gives you a good base for a jack).

Check for vacuum leaks, and check the vacuum and centrifugal advance on the distributer. Does the engine lack power over the entire rev range, or just some of it?